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Well, I looked again, and there's a white piece of plastic in sort of an L-shape that's loose inside the speaker box. It looks like it fits inside a slot right under the turntable.  Hopefully putting it back will fix the problem, but if not, I'll solder the wire back together too. Thanks, guys.
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Oct 18, 2011 21:17
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Non Krampus Mentis posted:Well, I looked again, and there's a white piece of plastic in sort of an L-shape that's loose inside the speaker box. It looks like it fits inside a slot right under the turntable. Why wouldn't you fix the obviously broken wire if you already have the thing taken apart?
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Oct 18, 2011 21:25
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The black wire is important fyi, red is right signal, white is left signal, and black is common signal ground.
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Oct 18, 2011 21:27
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taqueso posted:Why wouldn't you fix the obviously broken wire if you already have the thing taken apart? Because the record player is basically an empty box; you remove the topmost edge of the box and all the electronics are underneath. When you're done looking at the underside you can just turn it back over (carefully). Also, I don't have a soldering gun handy, and I'm a complete noob when it comes to anything with wiring in it. Non Krampus Mentis fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Oct 18, 2011 |
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Oct 18, 2011 21:29
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stubblyhead posted:My thinking was that rainwater is coming down that slope, and contributing to the amount of water that accumulates in my garage. If I had a french drain running parallel to the garage wall, would it not intercept some of that water and allow it to flow out of the way? A french drain would likely work in that situation. I would consider doing gravel for the 1 foot away from the house above the french drain to assist in quick drainage.
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Oct 19, 2011 01:29
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I put the wrong side of a poster strip on my dorm room wall and it ripped off some paint, leaving two patches about the size of quarters in the wall. The wall underneath the paint seems to be some sort of cardboard-like material? How can I covertly fix this and not get fined?
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Oct 19, 2011 08:30
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Grape Juice Vampire posted:I put the wrong side of a poster strip on my dorm room wall and it ripped off some paint, leaving two patches about the size of quarters in the wall. The wall underneath the paint seems to be some sort of cardboard-like material? How can I covertly fix this and not get fined? Fill the patches with joint compound and paint it to match. Sand it before you paint it if you leave too much, or smooth it with a wet sponge before it dries if you don't want to sand. Make sure you use a putty knife. If you get good with the knife you wont need to sand. I haven't watched the whole thing but I'll bet this will tell you what you need to know.
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Oct 19, 2011 13:30
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You can also get paint colour matched if you bring them a sample of the old paint, so the piece that ripped off might be big enough for them to match. They can then mix up a small sample pot that won't cost much. Either that or set fire to the dorm. Either option is valid.
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Oct 19, 2011 21:24
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truncated aardvar posted:You can also get paint colour matched if you bring them a sample of the old paint Exactly, I've done this tons of times with a utility knife. Ever so gently cut and peel off about a square inch of paint. You can then mud over that spot and it will be dry enough to sand and paint by the time you get back from the paint store.
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Oct 20, 2011 01:12
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Wrong f*#king thread 
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Oct 20, 2011 02:31
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Remedial reciprocating saw question: Are all reciprocating saw blades interchangeable with all reciprocating saws? I've only seen this kind of shank: Maniaman posted:I was hooking an antenna up from the roof to 6 HD TVs. The TV's are fed through a 6-way unpowered splitter. Since the splitter is in the attic I have one coax cable coming down the wall that I can hook whatever I want up to to get it to the splitter. I was coupling the coax from the antenna to the coax going to the splitter and got shocked hardcore. Like, tingle going up your arm and hair standing up shocked. I dont know if I've ever thrown something that fast. truncated aardvar posted:What's the best way to kill Endermen at the moment in Pre 4? I stumbled upon one in a cave the other day and killed him pretty easily, but the others I encounter outside don't want to party and just teleport away.
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Oct 20, 2011 02:44
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GWBBQ posted:You're pretty much out of luck unless you have some diazinon sitting around in the garage. Dammit! Not quick enough 
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Oct 20, 2011 02:49
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I'm trying to find a replacement heater for my bedroom before the weather gets too extremely old. I'm looking for a wall mounted 220v heater. I've looked around on various websites like lowes, home depot, Amazon, Google, etc. I just don't know what's a good reliable brand to get. On both Home Depot/Lowes it seems a lot of things just have horrible reviews; my main guess is nobody bothers to review the thing unless they have a problem. Information that may or may not help: * House is about 110 years old, no built in heating/cooling besides sealed transom doors * Electric: 220v. Aiming for around 3000 watts. Gas is available, but very expensive in the area. * Would prefer to be able to hook a digital thermostat up so that it can be set on a certain temperature, and also be on a timer. Something like this:  Mounts in a case, on the wall.
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Oct 20, 2011 06:39
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GWBBQ posted:Generally, when you see something like that, it's not so much that everyone agreed to a standard as everyone copied the first one that did it. Yeah, the first company had a massive head start/market share and if anybody else wanted to sell blades they'd have to be compatible. Then other companies wanted to get in with cheap knockoff saws but not bother with proprietary blades and so used the same blades as everybody else, leading to a de facto standard. It happens fairly often with things of that nature, not that I can remember any other examples at the moment (well, guns are one: consider your old standard pistol cartridges, 9mm and .45 -- each was originally developed for a specific model of gun, then the gun was adopted by the military, leading to a bunch of surplus ammo, so civilian gunsmiths built guns to use it, and then civilian ammunition makers made fancy loads for it, etc.).
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Oct 21, 2011 08:12
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I'm restoring an old radial arm saw and just found out I'm missing a particular part: table clamps. These guys drop into the rails on the side of the base and have a long screw that applies pressure to clamp in the back table and fence. Sears doesn't offer them anymore. Any ideas on where to find them or make a suitable replacement, or some other effective wave to clamp the table? It's basically a pin with a wider block of metal on top and a screw hole going through it horizontally. There is a machine shop in town, but I have no idea how much they'd charge for something like this.
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Oct 22, 2011 22:12
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I'm trying to find a good place to install a small weather station, and I can't find anywhere good other than the roof to put the wind sensor due to the way my house is positioned with neighboring houses. I'm really not wanting to drill holes in my roof, so I was wondering if it is all right to mount something on the little metal chimney thing on top of my house?
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Oct 22, 2011 23:39
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I've been taking apart old digital cameras to get the lens attachment. The bit with the lenses, gearing, and motors to zoom/focus are usually pretty easy to take out as one self-contained module. Is there any place that I can just buy those?
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Oct 23, 2011 03:10
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ante posted:I've been taking apart old digital cameras to get the lens attachment. The bit with the lenses, gearing, and motors to zoom/focus are usually pretty easy to take out as one self-contained module. Buying that assembly as a single spare part would cost you more than a new cheap camera, try hitting up Freecycle, craigslist etc for cheap/free cameras?
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Oct 23, 2011 08:11
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Yeah, I've been doing that, but I wouldn't mind being able to get a kickstarter together and mass producing a project that uses them.
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Oct 23, 2011 20:42
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I need help trimming out a window. I'm in the middle of having a couple of doors and windows replaced, and I just fired my contractor (for being unreliable, not for poor craftsmanship). So I have this window installed, but there's no interior trim. There are kitchen cabinets more or less flush with the rough opening, so I'm not sure where I would attach the trim to. The face of the sash is also about 2.5" in from the face of the wall, so I guess I'll need to cover that space with something too? Here are some pictures, I hope they are helpful. 
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Oct 23, 2011 22:16
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pwnyXpress posted:I'm trying to find a good place to install a small weather station, and I can't find anywhere good other than the roof to put the wind sensor due to the way my house is positioned with neighboring houses. I'm really not wanting to drill holes in my roof, so I was wondering if it is all right to mount something on the little metal chimney thing on top of my house? Me and my parents had Lacrosse brand weather stations with the wind sensor. For both of those I was able to mount it to a pole used for TV antennas. They are also stackable to get the desired height and can be mounted to the side of a house. If your mounting bracket is different, assuming everything is clear, and not too heavy I don't see why your idea wouldn't work.
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Oct 23, 2011 23:37
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm restoring an old radial arm saw and just found out I'm missing a particular part: table clamps. These guys drop into the rails on the side of the base and have a long screw that applies pressure to clamp in the back table and fence. I used to work for a fastener company back in college. I can't think of a drop-in replacement, but there are a couple types of bolts I can think of that might work for the bottom section, then get a tap and thread the top hole. You want what's called a "latch bolt" or "swing bolt". You'll want to match the bottom part's diameter, and maybe get a bolt long enough that you could cut off it's threaded section.
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Oct 24, 2011 21:00
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kid sinister posted:I used to work for a fastener company back in college. I can't think of a drop-in replacement, but there are a couple types of bolts I can think of that might work for the bottom section, then get a tap and thread the top hole. You want what's called a "latch bolt" or "swing bolt". You'll want to match the bottom part's diameter, and maybe get a bolt long enough that you could cut off it's threaded section. Thanks, sometimes the hardest part is figuring out the name of the thing you need. I rigged up a temporary clamp with a small chunk of 2x4, a threaded insert on the bottom with a bolt screwing up into it, and then a t-nut and another bolt going through horizontally.  I'm going to look into making the same thing with metal, or having the local machine shop do the whole piece with a pin on the bottom.
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Oct 24, 2011 21:42
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Anyone know where I can buy chalkboard by the pallet? And if I can cut it with standard router bits?
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Oct 25, 2011 00:15
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I don't know the answer to either question, but they make chalkboard paint. Maybe that would be easier than what you have planned.
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Oct 25, 2011 00:30
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El_Matarife posted:Anyone know where I can buy chalkboard by the pallet? And if I can cut it with standard router bits? Do you mean bulk slate? Or like mass quantities of prefabbed, standard sized chalk boards? e: haha I realize I'm stuck in like 1940
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Oct 25, 2011 01:03
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taqueso posted:I don't know the answer to either question, but they make chalkboard paint. Maybe that would be easier than what you have planned. Hed posted:Do you mean bulk slate? Or like mass quantities of prefabbed, standard sized chalk boards? Yes, bulk slate. Preferably 4x8 just like plywood or MDF. And I think we'd like to order a full pallet worth so hopefully we can do way better than the $90+ per panel prices I have been finding on Google. And I should have mentioned we're currently painting MDF with chalkboard paint as a substitute. We think working directly with slate will be a lot faster than cutting then painting. El_Matarife fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 06:59
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El_Matarife posted:Anyone know where I can buy chalkboard by the pallet? And if I can cut it with standard router bits? That might be a little hard with standard bits, or at least using the same bits that you've been cutting MDF with. Modern chalkboards are actually made from the same chalkboard paint, but on steel. The only chalkboards you'll find that still use slate will be antiques. Even if you did, slate is still a stone and can't be cut with standard wood bits.
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Oct 25, 2011 18:00
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With the cold weather coming, and a new window installed in my bathroom that is actually airtight, I'm looking for a good way to vent it. The ceilings are almost 8 feet high, so I figured normal powered ceiling vent would be best, but is it possible to install it in a soffit? There is a bedroom above it, so I don't have access to the joists without it being literally right up against the floor of the room above it. e: Or would a wall-mounted vent be better directly above the shower? I feel like there would be electrical code implications involved. The shower is up against an external wall, so it would be relatively easy. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Oct 26, 2011 |
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Oct 26, 2011 01:34
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Wall mount sounds the most feasible It doesn't have to be right above the shower for it to still be effective. If it's near water though, it should be on a GFCI circuit
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Oct 26, 2011 03:51
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What's the best thing to put on the ground to make a permanent pitch for a tent to go on? (The tent would not be there permanently, I just want something to stop the grass growing and not get waterlogged easily)
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Oct 27, 2011 10:34
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Probably the plastic board that they make decks out of would be ideal. I bet there's cheaper solutions, though.
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Oct 27, 2011 16:03
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My apartment doesn't have a permanent dryer vent, so I've been using a window vent like this one, just homemade out of plywood instead of aluminum. However, it's now cold as hell outside. Would it be possible to insulate this thing adequately, and if so what kind of insulation should I be looking for? The window is in a bathroom, not a basement or an attic, so I don't want to use anything like the puffy fiberglass insulation. It would be nice if I didn't have to replace and remove it every time I do laundry.
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Oct 28, 2011 14:46
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Cuddlebottom posted:My apartment doesn't have a permanent dryer vent, so I've been using a window vent like this one, just homemade out of plywood instead of aluminum. However, it's now cold as hell outside. Would it be possible to insulate this thing adequately, and if so what kind of insulation should I be looking for? The window is in a bathroom, not a basement or an attic, so I don't want to use anything like the puffy fiberglass insulation. It would be nice if I didn't have to replace and remove it every time I do laundry. I think you should be pestering your landlord for this. If the dryer was provided for you with the unit, it should have proper means to vent Edit: Is it gas or electric? If its electric you can get a kit to vent inside and actually heat your space in the winter. If its gas it needs to vent outside because of carbon monoxide dwoloz fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 20:00
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dwoloz posted:I think you should be pestering your landlord for this. If the dryer was provided for you with the unit, it should have proper means to vent
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Oct 28, 2011 20:27
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Home owner goof up. I had a bee problem, so I sprayed some Raid on a sloped roof that they were hanging out on. Today I come home and notice this black spot about 1' in diameter where my water drain goes onto my driveway. The asphalt is actually soft there now. It appears that Raid is a mixture of gasoline and a bunch of other horrible poo poo. I am guessing the gasoline is dissolving the binding that holds the asphalt together. Any ideas? The driveway is fairly new and hasn't been sealed yet. Kind of pisses me off because, hey, i could dig out a huge round hole out of my driveway with my hand if I wanted to. I have a feeling the rain/snow will eventually wash out a huge hole because of it if I can't find a solution.
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Oct 28, 2011 23:17
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Cuddlebottom posted:The landlord isn't very good about fixing things (took a week of negotiating to get the fridge repaired), so the odds are pretty much zero that they'll knock out holes for us, unfortunately. The apartment came with hookups but it's my washer/dryer. The dryer is electric - an inside vent kit sounds awesome, but would it be a mold risk? It might be a mold risk, but the bigger problem will be annoyance. The thing is, the reason dryers dry outside is because of humidity. If they vent outside, they put all that water outside too. If you vent indoors, it can make your apartment VERY stuffy. It can be enough to form condensation on your windows, etc. As long as you keep your bathroom door open while drying, you should be okay for mold not forming.
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Oct 29, 2011 01:46
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Philthy posted:Home owner goof up. The obvious answer is to light it on fire. Then go see what kind of damage you did to the roof, since shingles are from the same songbook as asphalt. At least I learned something, thanks! 
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Oct 29, 2011 05:09
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Splizwarf posted:The obvious answer is to light it on fire. Then go see what kind of damage you did to the roof, since shingles are from the same songbook as asphalt. At least I learned something, thanks! I lucked out on the roof, as the part where I sprayed was metal roofing. Sooo glad it wasn't normal shingles, either. Doing some searches setting it on fire might work for small spots, but this looks like it goes down all the way to the bottom of the driveway. I did find a site where they said I basically have to have an asphalt company come out and dig it out, and patch it. Who knows how much this is going to cost, and I hope it stays contained to the 1' diameter "spot" and not the entire driveway that the water runs over.
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Oct 29, 2011 17:09
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You need to set it on fire and take video. 
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Oct 29, 2011 17:53
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