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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Does this guy have amazing sustain on those notes or is that just me imagining things? Good setup? Feedback? Compressor? In my crappy experience I can get that with a decent amount of gain! Could be a compressor in there too, it seems to fade pretty consistently though. Sounds like someone's jonesing for some tone DaJe posted:I know I personally wouldn't know much about that. But if it was something I could still play just acoustically, and not plugged into anything, I'd be perfectly fine, as long as I had the option to still plug it in. Depends what you want, but a hollowbody like an Artcore might fit the bill too - not as loud as an acoustic (and not the same sound either) but it's an actual electric guitar you can play unplugged https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-D17OTrTba0&t=27s Sorry about the guy with the personality
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# ? Oct 20, 2011 22:40 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 20:21 |
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baka kaba posted:In my crappy experience I can get that with a decent amount of gain! Could be a compressor in there too, it seems to fade pretty consistently though. Sounds like someone's jonesing for some tone Eh yeah. Tried it a couple of times and I'm probably just imagining the difference, but gain does help, as does cranking the amp slightly more so you get a little feedback going. It's more insecurity, in that I haven't had my main guitar checked out in a long time, and it was made in like 1990.
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# ? Oct 20, 2011 23:04 |
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DaJe posted:Alright, so I haven't been playing for too long. I first really got into it sometime last year, when I got the mom of my at the time boyfriend to ship out his guitar he had laying around there house out to here. And then when I broke up with him, he took it with him, so I was without it for over half a year, until I managed to convince him to give it back to me last month. It's a really cheap Fender, pretty much the lowest end guitar they make, just a beginners guitar. that other fellow suggest a nice guitar, you could also consider browsing http://www.rondomusic.com/acoustics.html if you can deal with shipping i wish you luck! the vibrations of the string provide enough happiness to last you an afternoon, everyday. FREE ENDORPHINS (i dont mean free like... they are jailed but they are without cost... well, in a sense they are jailed but its essentially a moot point when you start to get on with it )
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# ? Oct 21, 2011 16:05 |
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Seriously, for anyone ever looking to buy a guitar ever who isn't 100% sure on what they want do the following. 1) Pick an artist you want to sound like. 2) Find out what they play, look for guitars in your price range that are similar, use the internet for this, google is your friend. 3) With a bit of background knowledge, if you can play, go to a guitar store and play some, if you can't take a friend that knows what he is doing. Find one you like and buy it. There really isn't more to it than that, worst case, you ain't hot at playing and you have no friends. In which case, replace 3 with, go to guitar shop with a shortlist that you got from step two. Ask the tech to play them so you get an idea of what they sound like. Pick your favourite and maybe ask his advice. Then get a tuner (borrow one if you have to). Play each fret on every string, just make sure there are no dead ones, they should all sound pretty nice and ring true. Then play a string open, and use the tuner to make sure its dead on, then fret it at the 12th string and see how far off it is. If the guitar is perfect it should be perfectly in tune at the 12th fret. Then stum a bit (as long as you can stand) and check nothings dropped out of tune. Then if it fits your hand and you like it and it passes the above, buy it.
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# ? Oct 21, 2011 18:30 |
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Cast_No_Shadow posted:Then play a string open, and use the tuner to make sure its dead on, then fret it at the 12th string and see how far off it is. If the guitar is perfect it should be perfectly in tune at the 12th fret. Come on now, the first one is subjective to the guitar being set up properly in the first place, as well as how much pressure is applied at the 12th fret, and the second is subjective to the quality of the strings among other factors. Besides, these days even the cheapest piece of chinese crap can hold a tune.
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# ? Oct 21, 2011 20:24 |
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RillAkBea posted:Come on now, the first one is subjective to the guitar being set up properly in the first place, as well as how much pressure is applied at the 12th fret, and the second is subjective to the quality of the strings among other factors. Besides, these days even the cheapest piece of chinese crap can hold a tune. True, but we're talking about people buying their first guitar in a situation where they ain't really got a clue what's going on. So I'm thinking, with the huge huge huge amounts of guitars available in literally every make and model in their range, why go through the effort of buying a guitar that's not set up right to start with? Why buy a random tele thats not set up right, and then have to get it sorted when you can just try any of the other 15 probably right next to it and find one that is set up? Or the 10 next door. If you're buying from somewhere thats letting you test out guitars with old lovely strings and its not a pawn shop\private sale. Don't buy there, they obviously don't give a poo poo. Like I said, best bet is going with someone who has a clue and/or having a conversation with the tech. The last paragraph was basically someone with no friends and no clue, how do I tell if a guitar is poo poo or I can take it home and not hate it every day in 100 words or less.
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# ? Oct 22, 2011 14:26 |
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Hi ML guitarists, Could someone kind please IM me and help me answer some tuning questions? I'm writing an "art music" piece for alto flute, electric guitar harmonics, and percussion, and I just want to know how low I can go. Thanks y'all ! e: time's up! thanks for people that posted though YO MAMA HEAD fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Oct 23, 2011 |
# ? Oct 22, 2011 17:58 |
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YO MAMA HEAD posted:Hi ML guitarists, This might help. http://www.mikfielding.com/Pitch_vs_Frequency.shtml You can tune the E string lower though, probably 2 tones down on your average guitar if you really need to.
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# ? Oct 22, 2011 19:05 |
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I really meant specific to guitar—whether certain unusual tunings for a guitar would work. Just to be clear, I'm a composer and a non-guitarist—I understand how tunings work, but don't have any way of actually testing them.
YO MAMA HEAD fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Oct 22, 2011 |
# ? Oct 22, 2011 19:43 |
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I don't have AIM but I can say you can get pretty loving low with proper string gauges. a low F# 1 to D1 are easily doable on a 25.5" scale length.
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# ? Oct 22, 2011 20:24 |
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So what's the deal with .11s? Seinfeld bass line goes here But seriously, is there anything serious to consider if I were to switch over to .11 gauge strings on my main guitar? We're talking about an Ibanez 450S from 1990. I want to try out thicker strings, I want my strings to 'give' less when I pick them (also changing strings is long overdue anyway). Anyone has experiences or warnings to share? e: this post reads like some bad avant-garde poetry god drat. hope it's understandable
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 00:29 |
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Should the strings and fretboard be parallel or is my guitar hosed up? Theres a 1mm clearance over the 1st fret and it hits about 5mm by the 24th.
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 00:47 |
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:So what's the deal with .11s? Seinfeld bass line goes here Not really, no. If your trem isn't blocked you'll have to set it up again, but you probably know how to do that if you're rocking a 450S. spe posted:Should the strings and fretboard be parallel or is my guitar hosed up? Theres a 1mm clearance over the 1st fret and it hits about 5mm by the 24th. It shouldn't really be that drastic. It might need a set up, unless it doesn't bother you. It's not broken or anything, though.
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 01:05 |
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Thanks for the information. I'm just waiting for a string to break so I have an alibi to put new ones on it. It has a combination of D'Addarios and Slinkies on it and this batch seems to be indestructible. I've dicked around with the Floyd plenty, too! Pshhhh if you don't re-intonate every time the G6 from the opening of Rush's the Necromancer sounds off.
SSJ2 Goku Wilders fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 23, 2011 |
# ? Oct 23, 2011 01:21 |
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Thanks for the information. I'm just waiting for a string to break so I have an alibi to put new ones on it. It has a combination of D'Addarios and Slinkies on it and this batch seems to be indestructible. I've dicked around with the Floyd plenty, too! Pshhhh if you don't re-intonate every time the G6 from the opening of Rush's the Necromancer sounds off. You should replace the string every month regardless of how worn they are. If you're getting sag after you pick you're probably picking too hard. 11s will sag less, but it won't be eliminated. Try choking up on the pick and plucking closer to the bridge.
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 02:11 |
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CalvinDooglas posted:You should replace the string every month regardless of how worn they are. Why so? I'm not doubting you but I'd like to know the reasoning for changing strings so often. Also agreed on picking too hard, but sag isn't the only reason I'd like to try bigger strings
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 13:24 |
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Why so? I'm not doubting you but I'd like to know the reasoning for changing strings so often. They lose tuning, tone, and intonation. No amount of string wipedown will keep preserve the strings magnetic and surface qualities. And they will dent a little bit on the frets, which effectively lengthens the string, leading to poor intonation. Do you play .10s currently? I'd move up one gauge at a time, maybe try .10-.52s, if you haven't already..11s aren't terribly heavy, but the fewer changes you need to make, the better. I'll ad that for your best tone, change all 6 strings if one breaks and it's more than a few days old. Not only does it keep the tone/volume consistent, it saves you the inevitable frustration of going to put on a new set and realizing all your packages are missing a string. Given the facts of your case, I'm guessing you play hard rock? Definitely worth developing a lighter touch with the right hand. Beyond the obvious benefits of good technique, it'll cut down the frequency of string breakage. My attitude is to always look for something that I the player can do better before trying to make the instrument accommodate me.
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 14:58 |
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^Yes to all your questions, and I agree with your reasoning on all points. I don't think I've ever tried 10-52, but probably will not because of your post. edit: thanks, forgot to say thanks!!!!!
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 16:33 |
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Are there any good resources on how to teach someone to play guitar? Alternatively, what did you wish you'd known\been taught early and why? The missus has got me to teach her the basics, we had our first lesson today and I enjoy teaching, plus being able to jam with her seems much more fun than sitting in front of the TV in the evening. Anyway, I'm looking for a few tips on what to cover. At the moment we've gone through the very basics of theory, what a key is, what a scale is, what a note and chord is, basics of intervals and how you make a major chord and how you find a note on a guitar. And a little bit of how they all fit together like some giant jigsaw. Then we picked hotel yorba as a song to learn, the fingering for G C and D, and wrote out chords in TAB (only using note's rather than fret numbers). Practice is basically learning the fingerings and strumming along to a metronome, then changing between them, and doing the circle of 4th's down the E string for a bit of variety. Planning on spending the next however long working on the technical side of playing hotel yorba and just reinforcing the theory basics but where would you suggest from there? What sort of things do you wish someone had shown you when you first started?
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 20:11 |
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JustinGuitar is the go-to resource, plus it's structured in lesson format so you can get an idea of how to progress, what skills to build first and how fast to go. I learned from tab books so I basically learned songs I liked, and knew lead parts and riffs in terms of fret numbers rather than notes and intervals, so it was much later that I started learning about structure and progressions and scale tones, instead of just learning strings of chord sequences and memorising patterns. So I think it would have been great to start looking at theory from the beginning, like learning that Hotel Yorba is in G and it uses the I IV and V chords, and analysing lead parts to try and associate them with the key. Nothing intense necessarily, just to start me off thinking in those terms, instead of just learning chords and note sequences in isolation. Learn the fretboard too! And focus on good technique - hand placement, positions and moving to new ones without squeaking, muting when there's high gain, playing to a metronome etc. Basically trying to avoid her picking up bad habits and crutches she has to unlearn later. Also if you have a PS3 or an Xbox 360, people are raving about this game. It's basically a guitar trainer, like Rock Band or Guitar Hero only using a real guitar and teaching you to play the actual songs, plus a bunch of games to run you through exercises. Might be worth a look as something fun you can do together, and people are saying they're playing more guitar than they ever have
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 23:35 |
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Hey guys, I'm a real slacker, so I could use some advice on putting together a practice regimen so I can get my poo poo together. I need to work on my clarity and speed.
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# ? Oct 23, 2011 23:46 |
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Pretentious Turtle posted:Hey guys, I'm a real slacker, so I could use some advice on putting together a practice regimen so I can get my poo poo together. I need to work on my clarity and speed. Set your metronome to 60 and get ready for a moderato adventure Open string RH Warm Up ALTERNATE pick open strings D G B and high E in this order, with a left hand mute at the nut: code:
Legato You can do this anywhere, but start on the 5th fret or so. This time, the numbers refer to your left hand fingers, 1 is index and 4 is pinky, as usual. With each possible combination of two fingers, you will do hammers ons, pull offs, and "trills" on each string, moving from Low E to High E and back down. With fingers 1 and 2, do hammers up and down twice (1h2), then pull offs (2p1). With the trills, alternate trill/mordent with each string. So, on the low E it'll be 1h2p1, and on the A 2p1h2, D 1h2p1, G 2p1h2, etc. And again, alternate pick. Do the hammers, pulls, and trills in finger pairs in this order: 1/2, 2/3, 3/4, 2/4, 1/4, 1/3. Scales I'm not going to explain how to figure out your 3 note per strings scales because they are explained inside and out in this thread and on every site referred to herein. Needless to say, though, you should learn all of them. What else are you going to practice for mindless melodies? There are only 12 major scales and that's most of what you need to know if you're just getting into a practice routine. Do your scales in a rhythm ladder. Start at a slow tempo and do quarter notes. Don't start on the root or your most comfortable position, but at the lowest note in the scale that you can play. This way you practice your scales all the way from open/1st position to 12th. When you get to pattern an octave above where you started, move through to the next scale in the circle of fiths. IE, if you ascend on C, descend on F when you get to the 12th position, and then ascend on Bb when you get back to the bottom. Every time you get back to the 1st position, move to the next rhythmic subdivision without changing tempo. Do quarters, 8ths, triplets, and 16ths. Slow down the tempo for faster note values if you need. Sextuplets are great, too, but may take a while to be worth practicing at a decent speed. Consistency is important. These exercises don't do poo poo unless you do them regularly. When you've gotten up to speed you should be able to knock them all out in less than a hour, and then everything else you do that day is bonus points. Even if you have to break them into three separate practice sessions to get them down, it's worth it. No matter how slow you start, if you do these 5 days a week for a month you'll see serious improvement.
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# ? Oct 24, 2011 00:37 |
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So, I've always been a re-string your own kind of guy; but ever since I've been playing this new guitar(epiphone dot studio) its had intonation issues and buzzing issues(on the low e string in the 1-5 fret range).... I feel like I need to get it set up professionally with a change of strings(so they don't reek of garlic.. for at least a month) and to fix the intonation and buzzing. I just wonder, is the all-purpose kind of fixing included in the(seems to be standard price for a guitar setup) 40$; or will truss rod adjustment and bridge height be some kind of add-on fee like rust proofing on a new car. Getting the intonation and truss rod setting set to the gauge of string that I want seems to be a pretty good reason to trust my guitar over to somebody, to fix it. I just don't know if I can trust the heroin addicts at "Guitar Center" to do it right. I guess I should mention that I live in Federal Way, which is a suburb of both Seattle and Tacoma. FetusSlapper fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Oct 26, 2011 |
# ? Oct 26, 2011 07:17 |
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Intonation and truss rod/action adjustment is a standard setup as far as I'm aware - they might do stuff like file your nut a little or whatever, oil a few things, but what you want is the meat and potatoes of a setup, and they'll change your strings while they're at it. I don't know how much Guitar Center charges, but your best bet is to go to an independent store where where there's a higher chance of people giving a gently caress. Do an internet and get a feel for prices (they may or may not include the cost of strings)
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 09:29 |
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What the guy above said. Find an independent store that has a guitar tech guy who sits at the back of the shop with a massive beard and a surly attitude. Even though he looks like a useless old metal head he will know guitars like you know your own face. Let him do it. Trusting a guitar you like to a mass chain shop is like trusting a girl you like to John Q Beatswomen the pimp.
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 14:50 |
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Basic setup should cost under $75. And change your strings more often, they'll sound better.
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 15:25 |
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CalvinDooglas posted:Basic setup should cost under $75. And change your strings more often, they'll sound better. Been meaning to ask - does one treat flatwound guitar strings the same as flatwound bass strings, i.e. leave them on there for decades?
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 16:11 |
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Manky posted:Been meaning to ask - does one treat flatwound guitar strings the same as flatwound bass strings, i.e. leave them on there for decades? change them every month
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 18:52 |
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I think someone bought stock in D'addario!
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 20:29 |
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baka kaba posted:I think someone bought stock in D'addario! I have an Amazon subscription for 3 sets of strings every 2 months
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 21:10 |
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If strings don't sound like rear end after 4 weeks you aren't playing enough!
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# ? Oct 26, 2011 21:53 |
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What would cause a string to start rattling like hell whenever I strum it? I'm just learning the A, D and E chords and it's really noticeable. It's the B string and up till recently it was completely fine. I've not done anything to the guitar (Fender Jaguar) that would change it.
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# ? Oct 27, 2011 05:24 |
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Have you tried putting on a new set of strings?
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# ? Oct 27, 2011 06:22 |
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If it has a tom bridge, check the bridge saddles also. I don't know why three of them would get loose all at once though, unless someone did the clear nail polish trick and it evaporated.
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# ? Oct 27, 2011 15:35 |
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Frankston posted:What would cause a string to start rattling like hell whenever I strum it? I'm just learning the A, D and E chords and it's really noticeable. Try playing the string open, at the 1st fret, at the 2nd, and so on until you find out where the buzz stops (you might have to play a bit harder to make sure). Also check there's nothing loose on the hardware that might be vibrating - if you've checked all the obvious things get your ear in there and see if you can find the rattle.
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# ? Oct 27, 2011 18:39 |
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CalvinDooglas posted:Set your metronome to 60 and get ready for a moderato adventure For this part, do you mean I should do each pattern of the individual orders (i.e 4321 4 times, move on to 4312 4 times, &c.) or do I do each column 4 times in a row. I've been doing it as the former for the last few days, but before I get too set in a routine I want to get that straight. Thanks for the time and effort.
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# ? Oct 28, 2011 04:09 |
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Pretentious Turtle posted:For this part, do you mean I should do each pattern of the individual orders (i.e 4321 4 times, move on to 4312 4 times, &c.) or do I do each column 4 times in a row. I've been doing it as the former for the last few days, but before I get too set in a routine I want to get that straight. Thanks for the time and effort. It doesn't make a difference, do it one way then the other. Do each one going left to right then down like reading once then do them 4 times going down the columns then do them going backwards 3 times. Then skip one and come back to it.
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# ? Oct 28, 2011 10:21 |
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I do each pattern 4 times. ie, 4321x4, 4312x4, and so on. I suggest doing 8th notes, start slowly. You'll be surprised how easy it is to do something once, but how hard it is to do it 4 times in a row without mistakes. And don't forget to alternate pick! Always downstroke on the downbeat. When you've gotten them at 8th notes, you can also do 16ths like 44332211, which will build up your string skipping on patterns like 11442233
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# ? Oct 28, 2011 13:26 |
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You should take what I say with a grain of salt (as you should with anyone's advice). But here are some things to consider about practicing and playing in general: - I don't think that alternate picking is necessary to learn. There are just as many (if not more) great players with great technique who don't alternate pick as there are ones who have it down. There are lots of picking techniques... economy, gypsy picking, variations that use hybrid picking, etc. The key is to find something that works for you, and to keep things consistent. Another thing to consider is that certain passages are easier to play if you start with an upstroke, but not with a downstoke, and vica versa. Experiment. - I'd advise against doing mindless exercises, as a general rule. The vast majority of what you should be doing is practicing actual music, whether it's working out songs, transcribing solos, chord melodies, or whatever. Doesn't mean you shouldn't do technical work, but it should be mostly relegated to scales, arpeggios, chords, and other things that you're actually going to use in musical situations. And even this stuff should not be practiced at the expense of playing actual music. - If you're an amateur musician just playing for fun, I wouldn't worry too much about having elaborate warm-ups. Just get some blood flowing to your fingers and start playing. If you're a performing musician, I would experiment with coming up with a warm-up that will get you to around 90% of your playing ability in a few minutes. The reality is that there will be some playing situations (MANY playing situations if you go on tour) where all the time you get to warmup is a soundcheck after stepping out of a freezing van. If it takes you an hour of warming up for you be comfortable playing, that's not going to be practical.
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# ? Oct 28, 2011 18:48 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 20:21 |
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CalvinDooglas posted:Open string RH Warm Up I don't really get which number is which chord. Is it numbered from bass to trebble?
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# ? Oct 28, 2011 20:29 |