|
Got a K1000 from Craigslist, what should I get for film?
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 04:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:23 |
|
|
Crawford posted:Got a K1000 from Craigslist, what should I get for film? Kodak Porta 400 is baller as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 05:04
|
|
|
fuji acros is a great bw film, though trix is more forgiving. also if you never shot slide film - provia or velvia.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 05:27
|
|
|
Man I really can't wait to start messing around with this. I wonder if the 7/11 near me has any 35mm film 
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 06:25
|
|
|
Something shot on expired Superia, "rescued" through a b&w conversion. Upper Cross Street by alkanphel, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 07:15
|
|
|
8th-samurai posted:Kodak Porta 400 is baller as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 13:28
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:That and Tri-X That and HP5+
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 13:31
|
|
|
QPZIL posted:That and HP5+
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 13:35
|
|
|
Nobody else like Ilford Delta?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 14:37
|
|
|
Laser Cow posted:Nobody else like Ilford Delta? Delta 3200 is my go-to concert film.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 14:52
|
|
|
Delta 400 is better than Delta 3200. Can be pushed to the same speed, but with much smaller grain.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 15:03
|
|
|
HPL posted:Delta 400 is better than Delta 3200. Can be pushed to the same speed, but with much smaller grain. Huh, never thought of that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 15:11
|
|
|
QPZIL posted:Huh, never thought of that. Plus it's cheaper too. The downside is that you have to develop Delta 400 for a longer time since Delta 3200 is designed to be developed at regular times as opposed to being pushed by a few stops. Delta 100 is a good substitute for Fuji Acros 100 if you can't find Acros. Acros is still cheaper and better though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 16:22
|
|
|
I use delta 100 as my go to black and white film but I really want to try Acros. Unfortunately I can't seem to find it here in Canada in 120. I tried to get some off the internet but they won't ship it here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 18:20
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:That and Tri-X 400-800-1600 ISO? Tri-X doesn't care. So versatile. Shame about the purple-ish hue if you don't wash/fix long enough. I think for my next batch of film i'm going with HP5+ instead (also to prepare for the day Kodak goes bankrupt).
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 18:23
|
|
|
PushingKingston posted:I use delta 100 as my go to black and white film but I really want to try Acros. Unfortunately I can't seem to find it here in Canada in 120. I tried to get some off the internet but they won't ship it here. Camera Traders (https://www.camera-traders.com) has some, but it's not cheap. I'm pretty sure other camera stores carry it like Leo's or Beau Photo.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 18:27
|
|
|
I'm also a big fan of Fomapan after having bought some on a whim (Freestylephoto's Arista.EDU 400, which is the same thing rebranded).
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 18:35
|
|
|
PushingKingston posted:I use delta 100 as my go to black and white film but I really want to try Acros. Unfortunately I can't seem to find it here in Canada in 120. I tried to get some off the internet but they won't ship it here. i just buy 10+ rolls at a time from adorama and I thought they shipper intl?? btw, nice portrait in the show yourself thread. what film was it shot on, looks like slide?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 19:13
|
|
|
Laser Cow posted:Nobody else like Ilford Delta? Delta is stupid sharp but it is a bit flat for portraiture. I only use it in medium format. I stick with standard grain films for 35mm.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 19:53
|
|
|
Kodak Portra 400 is good, but bad for landscapes (not high enough resolution; I forget what I was thinking). Incredible dynamic range, and can be pushed to high speeds with good results. Kodak Ektar 100 is a good color medium-high contrast film, especially for landscapes. Ilford HP5+ is good. Easily pushed with excellent results. Dunno how it compares to Tri-X. Ilford Pan F+ is a good high-contrast film; it has lower exposure latitude than most B&W film, so it's good for flat-ish lighting. Extremely fine grain and high resolution, with wonderful tonality. Fuji Neopan Acros is a good lower-contrast low-speed film, with fantastic resolution and incredibly fine grain. Haven't really compared it to Pan F+ yet, though. Also has extraordinary exposure reciprocity characteristics, so it's good for long exposure and night shots. Velvia is nice, but very low exposure latitude. Slide films are hard to scan.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 20:14
|
|
|
I've never really put too much thought into what I've been shooting on. Clearly I have some learning to do. [edit]I've been using Ilford Delta because I can go into a shop and buy it. Need to start buying online I guess. Laser Cow fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Oct 20, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 20:34
|
|
|
Ordered some Portra 400 from Amazon, then went to the store and bought 2 rolls of TMax 400 and 1 roll of UltraMax 800. I have no idea what it takes to get access to the developing rooms on campus, probably a photography major/minor. Or knowing someone with one, I guess. Time to try and make a new friend.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 20:47
|
|
|
guidoanselmi posted:i just buy 10+ rolls at a time from adorama and I thought they shipper intl?? The film I used for that was the new Portra 160 which is p awesome. I did a little bit of colour manipulation in lightroom though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 20:58
|
|
|
I liked how my couple of photo courses set up the film preferences. Photo One: buy a brick of Tri-X (or the cheaper Arista rebadging), use the whole thing. Get another brick, repeat. Photo Two: shoot four or five rolls a week of two different B&W emulsions that you haven't used before. Slow ones, fast ones, cheap ones, whatever. If you're new to shooting black and white, don't worry too much about all the options out there. Just pick one of the fairly bulletproof 400-speed films like Tri-X or HP5 and shoot a bunch of it. Once you're used to that, grab some Acros 100 and Neopan 1600. Both are wonderful.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 22:56
|
|
is go
|
Yeah, the best thing when starting out is to get one film/developer combo completely down and know it inside and out before branching out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2011 23:01
|
|
|
gently caress everything, I am ordering a V750 on Japanese Amazon, and a Betterscanning Holder, HC-110, and some more film from the US as soon as I get my paycheck (today or Monday).
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 00:35
|
|
|
My favourite film is "free". Second is "expired", because often it's free+shipping or otherwise very cheap.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 01:27
|
|
|
Reichstag posted:Yeah, the best thing when starting out is to get one film/developer combo completely down and know it inside and out before branching out. Yeah, I started out with Tri-X and shot probably 25-30 rolls of that (and developed everything in HC-110) before trying anything else. It really gives you a better feel for how things turn out and how various factors affect the film.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 13:03
|
|
|
Ordering a Nikon F4 w/ Nikkor D 50mm f/1.8 My first autofocus film camera 
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 13:46
|
|
|
QPZIL posted:Ordering a Nikon F4 w/ Nikkor D 50mm f/1.8 Autofocus ain't all it's cracked up to be. I'm much less "invested" in the shot and I'm more accurate at focusing on pretty much any manual body. Autofocus misses are the most annoying thing in the world.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 15:16
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Autofocus ain't all it's cracked up to be. I'm much less "invested" in the shot and I'm more accurate at focusing on pretty much any manual body. Autofocus misses are the most annoying thing in the world. Oh I know, I still prefer manual focus, but it'll have its applications now and then.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 15:24
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Autofocus ain't all it's cracked up to be. I'm much less "invested" in the shot and I'm more accurate at focusing on pretty much any manual body. Autofocus misses are the most annoying thing in the world.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2011 16:58
|
|
|
QPZIL posted:Delta 3200 is my go-to concert film. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2011 01:46
|
|
|
Showin' off my F3 for you, QPZIL   (Sorry for the terrible flash photo, it's dark in this tiny Brooklyn apartment and the only digital camera I have is a crappy P&S Sony from like 2004) F3HP + MD-4 with Ni-Cad battery, DA-2 action finder, SB-16A flash on a TTL cord for off camera action, tripod plate, and H-2 focusing screen (full microprisms, yo). Got a MF-6 back too, stops the film from going into the canister all the way upon rewind. Makes for easier changing bag fumbling. Note my newest stack of film, I've been learning with Tri-X / Kodak Gold / Fuji Superia for a while, but the past couple months I've been shooting Portra 400 / 160 and Ektar 100, which I am really liking. I was given the body, an 80-200, and a 35-70 macro zoom by my late grandfather. I've been teaching myself photography with it, and it's been a hell of a lot of fun. I've been slowly throwing awesome accessories at it, too. Through KEH, I have managed to trick this thing out for under 200 bucks by buying nothing but bargain / ugly grade poo poo, and watching for new cheap arrivals. Shown on it is a 28 f2.8 ais, not shown is a nifty fifty. I like the 28 most of the time though. I like getting up close. I've been shooting with it for about 6 months now, and it's been amazing. The thing is heavy as hell, but fits in your hand perfectly, and the weight steadies it and keeps it balanced. Before I got the motor I was impressed with how smooth the rewind action was, but you really can't have one of these without the motor. Not only does it balance out the camera, but it makes shooting fast as hell, powers the whole operation, rewinds super fast, and has a sweet grip. It's amazing, with the ni-cad battery it can shoot up to 6 fps (which the SB-16 can't keep up with, actually considering a Sunpak 555 for doing skate sequences). The huge action finder is a dream to work with, especially in my profession - I work in a glassblowing studio, so I've always got safety glasses on. The full microprism screen is super cool too, focus really jumps out at you, even if I lose DOF preview. It's a really well designed machine, incredible to use, has a great meter, easy controls, and everything seems to be thought of. I wish the flash sync was faster, and I hate the flash shoe design (seriously, take off the flash to change rolls? ), but other than that, it's a reliable, amazing piece of machinery. Now, the question is, what is the next lens I should buy for it? I've got some money coming my way, and I think I should splurge on a nice piece of glass. I want something in the 35-40mm length......I've been considering the Voigtlander 40mm F2 or perhaps a Nikkor 35mm F1.4. I like shooting street, night photography, skateboarders, and glass studio stuff, so I want something fast and contrasty. Any thoughts? Also, I've been getting my C-41 processed locally, and teaching myself how to process B&W. Then I let them do the scans. I really want more control over my scans, so I've been thinking about a scanner. Any suggestions? Money Walrus fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Oct 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2011 02:27
|
|
|
That's a pretty sick setup I actually decided at the last minute to go for the F4 instead of F3... I don't know why, but really it's not a matter of one or the other, it's a matter of one first and then the other. I'm such a fanboy for the F1/2/3/4, and I'm not even ashamed of it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2011 03:24
|
|
|
F3 hi5! I'd keep the motor on all the time even if it just powered the rewind.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2011 13:05
|
|
|
F1 here. Canon that is 
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2011 00:08
|
|
|
My grandfather's Nikon F is one of my favorite cameras, the weight makes slow shutter speeds easier to use, and the Nikkor-S 50 1.4 is easily my favorite lens.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2011 01:50
|
|
|
Reichstag posted:the Nikkor-S 50 1.4 is easily my favorite lens. Whud up, Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4 buddy? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2011 05:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:23 |
|
|
 A SERIES OF SEVERAL WOODEN BEAMS by atomicthumbs, on Flickr HP5+ in D76. I think I may have overdeveloped this roll, but it worked well for this photo (with some additional adjustment in Photoshop).
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2011 05:29
|
|