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ixo posted:I like the idea of a reel mower, but i'm wondering how effective they are in practice. I would love to not have to gently caress around with gas or batteries/cords, and being able to mow at 6am without pissing off the neighbors appeals to me. However I'll be mowing a quarter acre that isn't totally level, and the wife isn't on board with mulching the clippings. I would not recommend a push reel mower for a yard that size. My lot is .16 acres, and even that much was a bit of a chore. They are more physically demanding than you might think, and they are a pain in the rear end to sharpen. I got an electric Black and Decker last summer and couldn't be happier with it.
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Oct 12, 2011 06:29
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stubblyhead posted:I would not recommend a push reel mower for a yard that size. My lot is .16 acres, and even that much was a bit of a chore. They are more physically demanding than you might think, and they are a pain in the rear end to sharpen. I got an electric Black and Decker last summer and couldn't be happier with it. This. Unless you have a tiny yard, don't get it. I have the Fiskars Reel Mower and it was great last summer with my smallish yard. This year I got pissed (I think my over seeding last fall went overboard) and just bought a Black and Decker self propelled battery powered mower for $400 and it's loving awesome. It is about as quiet as the Reel Mower to be honest and it drags me across the yard while I drink beers.
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Oct 12, 2011 06:47
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what is this posted:My only concern was that deWalt was phasing out their 36v line in favor of the 20v line. The price is reasonable, I like deWalt in general, and you can buy batteries online for sort-of-reasonable prices. The new 20/18V DeWalt line is just a redesign as DeWalt moved to similar battery design as all the other major manufacturers. Other than that I don't know what to tell you really. I've worked with 36V Bosch tools briefly and they are heavy as poo poo but get the job done. Having a 18V circular and reciprocating saws, I get why you want something beefy. The drill is just too heavy for regular use, I find. Whenever I need something a 18V drill can't so, I use an impact driver. I have an all wood house so maybe the 36V is good for masonry work? I don't know.
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Oct 12, 2011 13:17
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ExplodingSims posted:So, I found this guy selling a 60 gallon air compressor for $100, and he just slashed it down to $75. Now, I guess he replaced the original motor with something smaller, and it would need a larger one to get back to full power. So any ideas how hard/expensive would it be to get a motor and install it on this? Any good recommendations for a motor while we're at it. It'd be pretty simple to swap motors (3 wire nuts, 4 bolts, and 1-2 belts to drive the compressor), but finding an appropriate motor that will work with your electric service (do you have a dedicated 220V circuit for it?) may be a bit harder. A 5hp motor should draw ~25A @220V, so you'd need at least a 30-40A breaker and wire.
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Oct 12, 2011 15:38
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stubblyhead posted:I would not recommend a push reel mower for a yard that size. My lot is .16 acres, and even that much was a bit of a chore. They are more physically demanding than you might think, and they are a pain in the rear end to sharpen. I got an electric Black and Decker last summer and couldn't be happier with it. Hurf durf, just noticed the lawn care thread with my exact same question just asked. I think I'll give a corded electric mower a try, thanks for your opinions guys.
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Oct 12, 2011 17:48
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ExplodingSims posted:Ad in question: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/2631858618.html Has it actually been stored outside as pictured? If so, I would avoid that one. Retail price a low-end 5hp motor will run you about $350 -- probably half that if you can find a suitable used one. Add about $50 for a decent mag starter.
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Oct 12, 2011 18:01
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ExplodingSims posted:So, I found this guy selling a 60 gallon air compressor for $100, and he just slashed it down to $75. Now, I guess he replaced the original motor with something smaller, and it would need a larger one to get back to full power. So any ideas how hard/expensive would it be to get a motor and install it on this? Any good recommendations for a motor while we're at it. Yeah, I'm with the guy above me. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it's possibly been stored outside, which just screams rusted. If it's rusted or dented then it's not anything you want to mess with, an abused tank can blow with some non-insignificant force if you aren't careful.
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Oct 12, 2011 19:43
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Blistex posted:If you have the money, then what you posted is pretty much the best stuff you can get. DeWalt (in my experience) lasts forever. Then again you can get all that stuff for 1/2 as much and it will still be decent quality stuff. They arrived today. Very solid. I may want another battery - right now I have 3 batteries and two charger. Overall I think it was a good purchase. I'm most pleased with the jigsaw. Haven't put much use into any of them yet.
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Oct 12, 2011 20:43
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I started working as Product Analyst for a construction supply distributor(not Grainger or Fastenal) in May. Looks like I found my career calling. Learning about tools all day is really interesting. Sure, there are the boring days of comparing 4 different brands of the same Latex glove and implementing a constant stream of price increases, but the most fun is helping decide which items go on a quote and looking downstream and seeing where the tools you are selling are going. We've been selling to the Ivanpah Solar project in Nevada and Motiva refinery in Texas, as well as globally to the Antapaccay copper mine Peru. Oh, and getting tools 10% over cost is nice too (not that I will need a 2-3/4" combination wrench).
WashinMyGoat fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 01:49
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ixo posted:However I'll be mowing a quarter acre that isn't totally level, and the wife isn't on board with mulching the clippings. (No offense to the masochists with postage-stamp yards who love their reel mowers, that's just my experience.) edit: my roommate suggests you take inspiration from the century before last and rent a goat. Surely somebody nearby keeps goats, and apparently renting livestock to mow and fertilize your lawn is a thing that happens these days. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 03:45
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:edit: my roommate suggests you take inspiration from the century before last and rent a goat. Surely somebody nearby keeps goats, and apparently renting livestock to mow and fertilize your lawn is a thing that happens these days. Actually saw some for "rent" this summer.
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Oct 13, 2011 04:10
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WashinMyGoat posted:implementing a constant stream of price increases
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Oct 13, 2011 04:47
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taqueso posted:What do you mean by this? When copper, leather, and cotton prices increase, so do the price of gloves, cords, and other items. We have to keep up with price increases from each vendor so we don't get hosed by selling stuff too cheap.
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Oct 13, 2011 04:59
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What's a fish and has a brand new Festool TS55? me  Time to go buy some sheet goods to break down for the hell of it.
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Oct 22, 2011 21:14
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themachine posted:Since we are on the topic of eye protection, maybe someone can help me out. Are there any good safety glasses/goggles/etc. that are good for someone who has to wear prescription glasses? I have to wear glasses 24/7, and due to my weirdo eyes, I cannot stand wearing contacts. Lasik is an option down the road, but don't really have the money for it now. I have a pair of prescription lenses in an OSHA rated frame, but they are uncomfortable and incredibly dorky looking. I'm hoping there are some kind if slipover type thing out there that can work. Lots of people in the machine/prototype shops I've worked at wear Oakley glasses the meet ansixxx whatever and are by far more comfortable then the cheep safety glasses! Plus you can get them in rx. As far as realistically expecting them to save an eye I have has some omg I should be blind moments and the most they damage was a nick or a gouge 20-30 bucks for a new clear lens if it was in a vision area and I was back in business. Edit: The distortion of cheep safety lenses gave me headaches it took me a while to figure it out but PAY FOR DISTORTION FREE glasses! mophomanners fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Oct 23, 2011 |
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Oct 23, 2011 04:15
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Bought a palm nailer today for some work in the crawl space. I don't know why but driving nails is so much more exciting with a palm nailer
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Oct 23, 2011 05:37
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Festool TS55 Trip report: I love it. Apparently it makes a weird guttural sound when starting up and sounds awful at first (normal! Something to do with the electronic load balancing/throttling) but once you put it to work it cuts like buttah'. This is my first track saw and I'm in love with the concept as much as the tool itself. The implementation is flawless and breaking down the 4'x8' panels was easy. I will definitely say that to all the people suggesting you could rely on this tool alone without getting a table saw, ehh.. I wouldn't bother. It might be *possible*, especially with an MFT but it seems like it'd be awfully painful when dealing with large batch jobs. Although there was things that were perfectly enjoyable to do with the track saw, it was clear there were many things for which my table saw was superior. For what it's worth, the cut quality on the Festool track saw is quite nice but my table saw is better... My table saw produces almost glossy cuts for me in hardwood ply while the Festool produces merely smooth, albeit gluable, cuts.
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Oct 24, 2011 03:39
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I bought an old planer at an auction on Friday. I've named it "The Behemoth". It weighs approximately 8 billion pounds. Anyone know where I can find info about it? User manual, parts, etc? Sears Roebuck model 306.9123.
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Oct 24, 2011 16:29
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mds2 posted:I bought an old planer at an auction on Friday. I've named it "The Behemoth". It weighs approximately 8 billion pounds. Anyone know where I can find info about it? User manual, parts, etc? Sears Roebuck model 306.9123. That looks to be in good shape compared to the closest thing I could find: 306.9121. Sears has a parts page with breakdown diagram but other than that it doesn't seem to exist on the Internet.
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Oct 24, 2011 17:58
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Cpt.Wacky posted:That looks to be in good shape compared to the closest thing I could find: 306.9121. Thanks! Mine seems to be the same the one as in your link except 1/2" larger. I can buy the one belt I need from your second link. There was a little rust on the bed when I bought it but I cleaned that up yesterday. Not bad for $65.
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Oct 24, 2011 18:11
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Anyone have experience with the Rockwell Versacut? I happened upon the infomercial and was immediately interested. I just bought a townhome so I'm planning on building some basic furniture, but I have very limited space for storing tools. This looks like a perfect replacement for a circular saw, and along with the track guides and the miter adapter I can also get away with doing more advanced cuts. The only thing it can't do is thick stock like 2x4's but for my use I think I can make do. I have access to a sliding miter saw if I really need it. On a related note, thoughts and reviews on the Rockwell Jawhorse? Because of the space issue I thought this would be a great "workbench" that I can fold away and put to the side when not in use. It seems pretty versatile in every way.
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Oct 25, 2011 01:53
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The Wormy Guy posted:Anyone have experience with the Rockwell Versacut? Not too sure about the Versacut, but I HIGHLY endorse the Jawhorse. I love mine and use it on almost all of my projects. What I have done with mine is used it as a portable table as well where I bolted a piece of scrap wood to my portable table saw and miter saws and used my jaw horse as a stand for both. Its freaking awesome.
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Oct 25, 2011 03:45
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The Wormy Guy posted:On a related note, thoughts and reviews on the Rockwell Jawhorse? Because of the space issue I thought this would be a great "workbench" that I can fold away and put to the side when not in use. It seems pretty versatile in every way. http://stusshed.wordpress.com/2009/01/14/and-now-for-something-completely-different-photos-of-the-jawhorse/
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Oct 25, 2011 05:39
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Thanks guys I was pretty set on getting the Jawhorse glad to hear you like it.
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Oct 25, 2011 23:12
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I like my jawhorse quite a bit, too. I just wish they made a lighter one out of aluminum.
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Oct 26, 2011 02:10
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Looking at getting an Impact driver off Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1319753304&sr=8-7 This seem like a decent version? Will be using it on my car and small engines mostly.
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Oct 27, 2011 23:09
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Looking at getting an Impact driver off Amazon. Do you have a Sears store near you? I have a Craftsman one that is identical to that and I paid $20 for it, plus you get a lifetime warranty with it. Mine didn't come with a carrying case though... Edit: Re-read the amazon description and that one has a 3/8 square drive and mine has a 1/2 inch square drive. Just FYI...
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Oct 28, 2011 01:34
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As Black Friday approaches, I figure it's a good time to ask for recommendations for brands/pieces to build my own tool set for home repairs and what not. Thus far, I've scraped by on a set left by my parents about 15 years ago, so it's about time to start fresh. Since I'm making such a newbie request, should I get a 40-piece starter kid thingy or just buy separate pieces from Home Depot as I need them?
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Nov 1, 2011 15:41
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Josh Lyman posted:As Black Friday approaches, I figure it's a good time to ask for recommendations for brands/pieces to build my own tool set for home repairs and what not. My first power tool recommendation is a lithium-ion cordless drill. It doesn't have to be top of line or anything, but that tool will get more use around the house than any other. Add to that a drill bit index of common sizes and a set or two of various Phillips, square, hex, star tips for driving screws and bolts. Get some extra #2 Phillips bits because those are by far the most common. For hand tools, I'd go with a standard claw hammer, a rubber mallet, a 6 piece screwdriver set, and a crosscut saw -- probably $30 for the lot at a home depot sale. Next would be a socket/ratchet set ideally with SAE and metric sockets. A decent kit would be rounded out with a pair of sliding pliers (Channellocks), adjustable wrench (Cresent), needle nose, and side-cutters or linesman dykes. If you're not good at finding studs using your knuckle, get a stud finder that also has a wiring detector. quote:Since I'm making such a newbie request, should I get a 40-piece starter kid thingy or just buy separate pieces from Home Depot as I need them? Those kits have really, really low quality pieces in them. I suppose it's fine for very light use, but nothing I would use to do a "project".
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Nov 1, 2011 19:15
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I know this is a brutal derail, but I always say corded over cordless.. Yeah, it is a bit more effort to deal with the cord, but you get more power for less money, and that is without factoring in battery obviation, life decline, forgetting to charge a batter when you need it, etc etc. My take is a decent mid range corded impact drill, with the second purchase being either a nice circular saw (if you don't have one) or a nice compound miter saw (if you already have a circular saw and plan on doing anything requiring studs or long skiny stock). Don't underestimate the glory of a miter saw when doing framing, molding, etc.
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Nov 2, 2011 04:51
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jackyl posted:I know this is a brutal derail, but I always say corded over cordless.. For drills, I went with a cordless and a corded. I use both equally. Cordless is perfect for running around all over putting up curtain rods, etc. Corded is perfect for down in the workshop area where you just want to get poo poo put together in a matter of minutes without having a battery die on you in the middle of a project.
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Nov 2, 2011 05:26
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jackyl posted:My take is a decent mid range corded impact drill OK, so dumb question time. What's the difference between an impact driver, an impact drill and a regular drill?
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Nov 2, 2011 06:24
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stubblyhead posted:OK, so dumb question time. What's the difference between an impact driver, an impact drill and a regular drill? regular drill = turns drill bits and anything else that can fit in the chuck hammer drill = same as a regular drill, but also delivers forward impacts. Many have a setting to turn off the hammer action and become a regular drill impact driver = delivers a bunch of quick rotary impacts to free stuck fasteners kid sinister fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Nov 2, 2011 |
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Nov 2, 2011 08:53
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kid sinister posted:regular drill = turns drill bits and anything else that can fit in the chuck Hammer drill: The hammer function is for masonry work. A small combo drill with hammer function can only punch small holes for screws and such. You need a larger hammer drill if you want to drill into concrete. Impact driver: Works like a drill driver when there no to little load. Once the torque goes up, it "punches" the bolt/screw in by spinning up a disc inside the impact driver and applying that force to the chuck. It does this typically 3000 times per minute. The result is that you hear a hammering type sound from the driver. This is far easier on the screw, the driver and your arms than using pure torque. It also allows for using far more torque than a regular drill driver. A beefy drill can output something like 40Nm. A small impact driver manages 150Nm. Even a small 10.8V 1Ah impact driver manages 100+ Nm. It's fantastic to loosen stuck bolts and screws and you don't have to worry as much about the bit popping out of the head of the screw. I've screwed a couple hundreds of torx 6x100mm screws lately and it was near impossible to do with a regular drill. This was in the ceiling and I couldn't apply enough preassure to the drill to manage it. the impact driver gave no fucks and I could dangle anywhere as long as I got a good angle on the driver.
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Nov 2, 2011 10:18
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Iskariot posted:Latest tool purchases: An auto feed screwdriver is loving cheating. It makes putting up drywall so much easier. The Makita is a bit picky about the angle so you have to get used to it. If I didn't have a ton of 18V Makita stuff already, I might have gone with a corder Senco instead. They have a model that does 25-75mm screws IIRC. Perfect for decks and drywall. American have the option to get a Hilti combo for what? $140? That's $1000 here. No kidding. Probably the safest bet and used by countless contractors around the world. The orbital sander is nice. Has a lot of different settings so you can get it just right. Sturdy. After using it on dried mud on the drywall, I can see why Festool makes so many holes for dust extraction. The eight ones on regular orbital sanders isn't enough. Radio is pretty good. Decent sound in it. DAB is great is I live in some sort of deadzone. Lasts a long while on a single battery (18V 3Ah).
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Nov 2, 2011 10:39
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jackyl posted:I know this is a brutal derail, but I always say corded over cordless.. Maybe 15 years ago in the 12V NiCd days, I would have agreed. Today cordless drills are very well made, even the store brands like Ryobi. The only thing I use my corded drill for anymore is hogging out multiple holes in studs. An 18V cordless Lithium can do absolutely everything else, weighs less, and the battery charges in about 15 minutes. I even run a 1" auger with it on occasion when getting out the cord is too much hassle for one hole.
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Nov 2, 2011 17:26
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I just fell in love with Kreg screws. I want to throw every Phillips bit and screw in the ocean now.
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Nov 2, 2011 17:59
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I'd agree with the comments that the modern cordless stuff is pretty impressive, I replaced an old 18v nicad de-walt which finally gave up the ghost with the little black makita 10.8v drill and impact driver combo, they are suprisingly good. The area I would say corded is still useful is for something like an SDS plus hammer drill with roto stop. I often use ours (blue bosch) with a chisel on for pulling tiles of or removing cement. If you think you'll be running for hours in a similar area they definately have the advantage.
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Nov 2, 2011 18:00
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I'm brand new to woodworking, but I would like to teach my self. I'm looking for a few staple powertools. The first I will probably buy is a bandsaw. I saw this one on Amazon for a nice price: http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK7453-9-Inch-Band-Saw/dp/B002CJLUYM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1320262165&sr=8-6 But after some more research I discovered that Rockwell doesn't make bandsaws any more, which is probably why it is so cheap. Does anyone know if replacement parts would still be available is something goes wrong with it? Or on a different level, are these reliable machines or are they prone to breakdowns?
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Nov 2, 2011 20:33
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SeptimalMinor posted:I'm brand new to woodworking, but I would like to teach my self. I'm looking for a few staple powertools. The first I will probably buy is a bandsaw. I dont know about that rockwell saw, but I had a 9" Delta and it was the biggest piece of poo poo ever.
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Nov 2, 2011 20:37
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