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there are a couple of different ones. Wheel locks are not that hard to get around if you want though. Really just a pain in the rear end, especially when you work on cars everyday.
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Oct 26, 2011 04:58
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loving gently caress. You know what loving sucks? loving finishing your engine build... cleaning up, being happy, having sorted out all the minor mishaps that were inevitable to come up.... (last two were a minor boost leak and a timing map that we set wrong)... And as you declare victory you see a huge pool of oil under your car.  Rear main seal appears to have been installed too deep/shallow/something. POURING out oil. Thank god it happened there and not on my 100 mile drive from earlier in the day... but still. gently caress. Can't wait to tear the transmission off tomorrow. gently caress.
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Oct 26, 2011 05:00
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I did that too on my own car. Didn't seal the pcv cover plate on the back well enough. oh yeah, and here's a trick for putting in the rear main seal: do it before you put the case halves together.
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Oct 26, 2011 05:08
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Do you need to split the case in order to change the rear main seal? I was considering doing it when I replace the tranny on my '97 but I might just leave it if that's the case.
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Oct 26, 2011 05:52
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no, it's just a lot easier to set it in one half before you drop down the other. If the seal isn't leaking don't gently caress with it, because it's somewhat of a pain in the rear end to change. You pretty much need the oem installation tool to get it to go in straight.
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Oct 26, 2011 05:56
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Fair enough, thanks. It's not like there's a shortage of other poo poo to do on this car either. Apparently you need to press in the rear diff bushings on the GC/GF which is going to be an unpleasant subframe dropping session.
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Oct 26, 2011 05:59
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jamal posted:Wheel locks are not that hard to get around if you want though. No, they apparently aren't!  Couple of 12-point 3/4" sockets, a hammer, and a breaker bar, and those things were toast. Not sure what the point is when they're this easy to remove, so I guess I won't be putting them back on!
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Oct 26, 2011 06:02
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:No, they apparently aren't! I'm not sure OEM wheels are that hot of a commodity either.
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Oct 26, 2011 07:19
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Not sure what the point is when they're this easy to remove, so I guess I won't be putting them back on! The same as a Club or locking your doors. You can cut through the steering wheel or smash a window. It's just there to make a thief look for an easier target. Banging a socket onto a wheel lock will make a lot of noise late at night.
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Oct 26, 2011 07:56
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jamal posted:oh yeah, and here's a trick for putting in the rear main seal: do it before you put the case halves together. That's what I wanted to do but the factory manual said not to. Ugh. Either way, not looking forward to pulling it apart today.
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Oct 26, 2011 12:29
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jamal posted:I did that too on my own car. Didn't seal the pcv cover plate on the back well enough. Wait, explain this. I'm trying to figure out what went wrong... after all I drove the car 500+ miles before this happened. We did do a boost-leak-test the night before, but we had the oil cap off to keep pressure from building in the crank case. Why wouldn't an improperly installed rear main seal leak right from the get-go?
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Oct 26, 2011 16:45
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Tongsy posted:I never understood the point of these. There is a set on my car, but switching my wheels the other day got me thinking - if someone is going to steal your wheels, they won't stop whomever is doing it because these things all appear to have the same pattern (unless they are slightly different?), and a thief would have one with them. Why lock your car? If someone wants in, all they have to do is break the window and steal anything inside. As with most non-complex security mechanisms, they're designed to make it just difficult enough that the other guy (who isn't locking his doors or, in this case, putting wheel locks on) is a much easier/better target.
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Oct 26, 2011 21:21
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Jacking up a car to remove the wheels is going to set off the alarm anyways. If people are going to ignore an alarm going off, while someone jacks up a car and is in the process of removing wheels, I don't think anyone is going to blink twice if that person pounds on a sacrificial socket. That's not quite the same thing as locking your doors as someone can just causally open a door and do whatever they want inside without arousing any suspicion. You can also buy a lock removal kit for like $40 from Amazon.
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Oct 26, 2011 21:36
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The way I see it. If they want your poo poo they'll get it. If you buy $4k wheels be prepared for someone to jack them. People are dicks. They will case your car, where you park, and your habits.
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Oct 26, 2011 22:38
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Blaise posted:Wait, explain this. I'm trying to figure out what went wrong... after all I drove the car 500+ miles before this happened. We did do a boost-leak-test the night before, but we had the oil cap off to keep pressure from building in the crank case. it's hard to say. if you suddenly went from no oil leak to big oil leak, it does sound like the main seal somehow popped out. No rear main would dump most of the crankcase on the ground in pretty short order. The seal should be just very slightly farther in from flush with the case (there's a slight chamfer on the edge). Too far in and you block off the oil passage that lubricates the rear of the thrust bearing. too far out and it's more likely to come out or contact the flywheel. I've never actually seen one pop out. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Oct 26, 2011 |
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Oct 26, 2011 23:08
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bull3964 posted:Jacking up a car to remove the wheels is going to set off the alarm anyways. 1. Not every car has an alarm. 2. Not every alarm has a motion sensor. 3. Even alarms with a motion sensor don't always get triggered unless there is huge shaking movement (like my Jeep). 4. Having to hammer a socket onto a car with a touchy motion sensor will set the alarm off well before slowly raising the vehicle to remove wheels that didn't have wheel locks. I bet someone would be slightly less inclined to continue hammering all 4 sockets on the car with an alarm blaring in their ears. bull3964 posted:If people are going to ignore an alarm going off, while someone jacks up a car and is in the process of removing wheels, I don't think anyone is going to blink twice if that person pounds on a sacrificial socket. Sure, but it will still be a pain in the rear end. You would need to have 4 sockets, and risk slowly and loudly banging on all four wheels to get them off the car. The whole point here is to make a thief look for an easier target, just like The Club or having locked doors. If two identical cars were side by side, one with locked doors and one without, guess which one is getting ripped off? Same goes if you change the scenario to one car having wheel locks and one not. bull3964 posted:That's not quite the same thing as locking your doors as someone can just causally open a door and do whatever they want inside without arousing any suspicion. How is it not the same? You are adding a minor level of protection that makes it just slightly more annoying and difficult for a thief to get around. Again, the whole point is to make a thief look for an easier target. Plus a car with an alarm is going to make it difficult to allow someone to do whatever they want without arousing suspicion. bull3964 posted:You can also buy a lock removal kit for like $40 from Amazon. And you can find a rock on the side of the road to smash a car window, but I bet you still lock your doors.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:22
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BoostCreep posted:
I explained why it isn't the same. Both smashing in a window and removing 4 wheels from a car and putting it on cinderblocks are a conspicuous action. Pulling on a door handle and going into a car is not. In other words, locking your door FORCES the thief to take a conspicuous action. Wheel theft by its nature is conspicuous so a little extra effort isn't going to deter them. Not to mention that a thief isn't going to say "drat, those $3k BBS's have a single easily defeatable wheel lock. I guess I steal that PT Cruiser's $60 steelies instead." I would say you're more likely to have your car stolen in any case so the thief can take it to a place where it can't be seen as easily. Yes, sure, if you have two cars that are exactly the same parked side by side and one has locks and the other didn't, the one without locks is more likely to have its wheels stolen. I would posit though that if the wheels were worth stealing to begin with, the thief is going home with a set of 8.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:38
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This is what Rotas are for, right?
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Oct 26, 2011 23:42
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I see your point. But $40 for a set of wheel locks still seems to have more positives than negatives. The only negative I see is having to spend an extra minute per wheel using a key to get the lock off. I guess also the fact that I've had wheel locks on every car with wheels worth stealing over the past 7 years living in LA and I've never had any stolen helps make up my mind. That includes an '06 Evo SE with BBS wheels, '06 S2000, '08 Legacy Spec.B, and '09 STI. Of course I also could have just been really lucky.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:47
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Well, except for when you go to get the wheel lock off and the key grenades on you. It's one thing for that to happen in my garage where I have plenty of ways to get it off, but if that had happened on the side of the road after a flat or something...
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Oct 27, 2011 00:02
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Doing pads/rotors on my 2006 wrx tonight, got the caliper off and the rotor seems really well stuck on. There's no bolts or anything I'm missing right? I was going to get the 8mm bolts tomorrow.
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Oct 27, 2011 02:34
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Hollis Brown posted:Doing pads/rotors on my 2006 wrx tonight, got the caliper off and the rotor seems really well stuck on. There's no bolts or anything I'm missing right? I was going to get the 8mm bolts tomorrow. I'll take any excuse to repost this. I spent hours trying to pound the rusted rotors off my girlfriend's Camry, then got them off in about 45 seconds with this trick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs
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Oct 27, 2011 04:17
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Plus that way you won't run the risk of loving up your ABS tone rings, although that's more of a hub-removal problem.
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Oct 27, 2011 04:20
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smart. subaru rotors have threaded holes in the hat so you can pop them off with an m8x1.25 bolt. Any bolt that uses a 12mm wrench on a subaru is m8x1.25, although I usually don't use one from the car because they can get mangled. Also rotors that are held in place by a screw piss me the gently caress off.
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Oct 27, 2011 04:23
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I am planning on getting a new wrx and am wondering if there is any reason to get the short throw shifter with the car opposed to just installing one myself?
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Oct 27, 2011 08:02
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Hibame posted:I am planning on getting a new wrx and am wondering if there is any reason to get the short throw shifter with the car opposed to just installing one myself? It is rolled into the financed price and you aren't installing it?
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Oct 27, 2011 08:24
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ssjonizuka posted:You say THAT and then don't post said pictures?!? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3084710&pagenumber=8#post396983664 Best said here
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Oct 27, 2011 11:51
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I believe the linkage is different on the factory short shifter as opposed to the aftermarket/stock ones.
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Oct 27, 2011 17:33
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I hear there are slight differences in the linkages. I recommend getting the following for like $200 less than the oem kit: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=87 kartboy short shifter kartboy front and rear shifter bushings turn in concepts pivot bushings turn in concepts linkage bushings jamal fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Oct 27, 2011 |
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Oct 27, 2011 19:50
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Just throwing (lol get it) it out there that the eBay short shifter for my 02 WRX has worked great for about 5,000-10,000 miles now including some track time and very hard shifts and it with some poly bushings from summit was only about $45 including shipping. The shifts are slightly shorter than stock.
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Oct 27, 2011 20:41
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BoostCreep posted:I see your point. But $40 for a set of wheel locks still seems to have more positives than negatives. The only negative I see is having to spend an extra minute per wheel using a key to get the lock off. My wheel lock had the nut part crack off while I was trying to change my flat in the snow and turned a 30 minute flat fix into waiting for a tow truck forever in a blizzard. 
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Oct 27, 2011 21:00
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Hibame posted:I am planning on getting a new wrx and am wondering if there is any reason to get the short throw shifter with the car opposed to just installing one myself? I'd be swtiching shocks myself, there's nothing particularly wrong with the stock shift. Also learning to drive with the TC off, we found a 1.1 secs difference in TC on and TC off last weekend. Quite a difference in chassis feel too.
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Oct 27, 2011 22:03
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There's definitely something funky about the traction computer in the new cars. When making a 90 degree left turn in 1st gear at about 15 mph from a gravel road to a paved road, the car lurches like crazy for an instant midway through the turn. It does this no matter if the traction control is on or off.. there must be some nanny mode you can't disable.
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Oct 28, 2011 03:42
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our 06 sti was faster with the abs on and dccd set to auto. with 750whp, r-comps, and a lot of downforce (there's no traction control until 08+). I don't understand the people who gently caress with the brake system and whatnot.
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Oct 28, 2011 08:57
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jamal posted:our 06 sti was faster with the abs on and dccd set to auto. with 750whp, r-comps, and a lot of downforce (there's no traction control until 08+). I don't understand the people who gently caress with the brake system and whatnot. We have documented where the ABS on has malfunctioned and spat cars off the track. No problem in the stocker tho, only in the more modified cars and the MY11 for some reason. The two quickest cars here have both had some seriously scary moments until the ABS was disconnected and a bias value put in, then no problem.
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Oct 28, 2011 13:13
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jamal posted:our 06 sti was faster with the abs on and dccd set to auto. with 750whp, r-comps, and a lot of downforce (there's no traction control until 08+). I don't understand the people who gently caress with the brake system and whatnot.
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Oct 28, 2011 16:09
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nm posted:Weren't there some issues with early WRX ABS modules activating too early? There was an issue with the '02/'03 WRX where braking over bumpy surfaces caused the ABS to overreact which basically cut braking power until you left off the brake and re-applied. It was resolved through a new software and (I believe) a control module replacement. I can't remember the full specifics of what was done to fix it as it was done to my car automatically when I was having the transmission replaced, but it completely resolved the issue for me.
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Oct 28, 2011 16:17
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I'm putting new gaskets on my exhaust manifold and cross pipes. Should I clean the inside of the pipes before reinstalling? I got some grimmspeed gaskets for the crosspipes that seem overly thick. They are marketed as being thicker than OEM but they don't look to be sealing well, Any advice or experience here?
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Oct 28, 2011 16:22
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yeah I unplugged a wheel speed sensor once and the car straight up wouldn't stop right because the electronic brake distribution defaulted to some very front biased setting.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:03
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Cat Terrist posted:We have documented where the ABS on has malfunctioned and spat cars off the track. No problem in the stocker tho, only in the more modified cars and the MY11 for some reason. The two quickest cars here have both had some seriously scary moments until the ABS was disconnected and a bias value put in, then no problem. Is this at all a problem in MY08-10 (if you know...)? I've been noticing that I have situations where threshold braking rather than actual ABS would be a TON better - not just a little, but literally situations on snow and ice or on gravel where I'm left skidding at 20 mph or less. It could also be that I'm just rarely activating the ABS under those situations above 20 mph, since I'm not ever really trying to push the limits on snow and ice. It feels like I have no control over the braking system whatsoever when the ABS goes on, even if I liftoff and re-apply - the slightest re-application of the brakes activates the ABS, which I think is actually somehow reducing my ability to turn, as though all of the wheels have locked up at once. It's pretty painful in parking lots when it happens, as I'll unpredictably go into a 5 mph skid completely out of control, when I know if I hadn't activated the ABS I would have had no issue at all stopping. I'll take some video this winter to demonstrate the worst of it - it's pretty ridiculous when it happens. If anyone else has this issue with the more modern WRX's/STi's, feel free to chime in.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:41
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