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Fermunky posted:I am not sure if I am mis-understanding "load test", but to do it, they tested it on their meter with the car turned off, on at idle and no accessories on, then all accessories on, then with me reving it to ~2500 RPMs etc... Maybe we are talking about different load tests. I'm talking about a (common) carbon pile load tester. Nitr0 posted:Every inspection done there's a battery load test. There's nothing that uncommon about it. So you aren't talking about a state inspection. There is the confusion.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:06
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Ahh, yea. I'm in Vancouver BC. We don't have annual province inspections or anything like that.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:08
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Can anyone comment on how reliable/expensive an e28 is to maintain? My financial situation isn't quite what I was expecting it to be with my new job so I'm putting off me e39( ) search and thinking about selling my miata and getting a cheap old 5 series. I've heard the M20 is pretty much a tank and nearly impossible to kill, would one of these guys potentially make a reasonably reliable cheap driver(fuel economy aside)?
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Oct 28, 2011 17:26
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The M30 is a tank as well if you end up with a 535i. Basic bits are slightly more expensive than an e30, but it should be easy on the wallet if you're doing the work yourself. If you take care of the car / the previous owner did, it should be extremely reliable.
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Oct 28, 2011 17:55
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Yeah, that's the worry. I'm basically trying to see if I can find a sub-2k car that's fun to wrench on, and I dunno if I can find an acceptable BMW in that range(other option I'm looking at is maybe a 4.0 Jeep). I think I can probably get around 4k for my miata if I clean it up, so that leaves me some emergency money and an interesting car to put a little money into.
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Oct 28, 2011 18:17
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my 1987 535i is very reliable and cheaper to run that my previous 91 4runner
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Oct 28, 2011 18:29
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The Third Man posted:Yeah, that's the worry. I'm basically trying to see if I can find a sub-2k car that's fun to wrench on, and I dunno if I can find an acceptable BMW in that range(other option I'm looking at is maybe a 4.0 Jeep). I think I can probably get around 4k for my miata if I clean it up, so that leaves me some emergency money and an interesting car to put a little money into. You can pretty easily find a serviceable e28 in that range.
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Oct 29, 2011 18:31
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My E39's passenger side angel eyes are out. http://tinyurl.com/3rfgtw5 Do I need one or two of those? The description says "two per car", so I'm assuming I only need one if only one side is out.
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Oct 29, 2011 20:12
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Yep, just one.
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Oct 29, 2011 23:30
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Finally got around to taking apart this bastard I posted a page back to scavenge the bump stop: Here's what I found:    Not pictured: The metal part of the strut mount nearly cracked in half and the strut being so worn out that the piston sunk into the strut just from gravity. E34 feels ten million times better now with all new hardware back there. Still vibrating at speed though 
8ender fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Oct 30, 2011 |
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Oct 30, 2011 05:47
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Like I said, I got an E87LCI 118i last week, and I can hardly contain the corners of my mouth within the confines of the side windows. It's only decently powerful, but the steering and suspension is by far the best of any car I've ever driven. Excuse the lovely pics, DSLR is lent out.   Now, it sorely needs a brake job on all four corners. In fact, I think it's still on its original discs and pads, at least it shows no records in the service history. Anyways, questions: 1) There's a little wire in the pads that get worn "over" which triggers the in-car computer and tells the consumer to take the car in for service. Do I need to reset something in the software after doing the brakes, or will it be content that there is still a circuit through the new pads? 2) Should I go with standard pads and discs? I can get EBC Green Stuff pads for not much more. I won't be doing any track days, I think, but a little spirited driving is probably in the books come spring. 3) I gather that the rears discs are drum-in-hat. How much of the handbrake mechanism + brake shoes etc. do I change out? The lot, while I'm in there? 4) Anything else I need to know? Will I need any specialty tools? Anything else needed (disc bolts, sensor wires, mounting kits...)
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Oct 30, 2011 16:43
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bolind posted:1) There's a little wire in the pads that get worn "over" which triggers the in-car computer and tells the consumer to take the car in for service. Do I need to reset something in the software after doing the brakes, or will it be content that there is still a circuit through the new pads? 1) The pad wear sensor just clips in place. If it isn't worn (ie brakelight isn't lit up on the dash) it doesn't need to be replaced. All that happens is when the pad wears down far enough the rotor wears the sensor and continuity is broken. If it is worn you just need a new one to plug in, one for the front and one for the back. 2) I've always liked OEM BMW pads, as dusty as they are. You certainly don't need anything more than rotor blanks. 3) You can look at them, but you really shouldn't be changing that stuff on a 1-series this early. If you handbrake can still hold your car on a decent slope then don't bother. Otherwise you'll probably need a hardware kit (springs), the adjuster and new pads. 4) You'll need something to compress the piston in the calipers. I have a cheap 2 dollar 2 that fits into the caliper like a pad and just has a screw to push in the piston. Some people just use a block of wood to pry them open.
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Oct 30, 2011 18:52
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bolind posted:2) Should I go with standard pads and discs? I can get EBC Green Stuff pads for not much more. I won't be doing any track days, I think, but a little spirited driving is probably in the books come spring. Only if you like massive amounts of brake dust and lots of noise for no discernible difference in braking. Unless EBC Greens have changed a lot, I only tried them once, and it was over 5 years ago (and they were horrible).
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Oct 30, 2011 21:20
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Alright, thanks. Did BMW change from the TIS (online repair guide stuff) system in 2008? I haven't been able to locate anything newer than 2008-ish, and I don't think they include my particular model (or the facelifted parts, anyway.) Also, my car has no dip stick. It, supposedly, has a menu in the on board computer that can do an oil level analysis for me, but all I ever see is the little clock, and then it returns to the "main" display. Am I doing something wrong?
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Oct 31, 2011 12:31
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You have to wait for your car to warm up first. Start up your car, and drive around for a while. When you park, check the oil thing again and it should say what the level is.
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Oct 31, 2011 15:19
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bolind posted:Alright, thanks. We still use TIS
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Oct 31, 2011 15:39
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8ender posted:Still vibrating at speed though Symptoms? Maybe you've described it before, but I forgot. With all the vibration issues I've had with my E34s over the years, it's always come down to one of these two: 1) Control arms 2) Wheels/tires The control arms are usually pretty easy to diagnose and fix, but the tires and wheels require very precise balancing, through trial and error, and to make it even more confusing, my vibration problems went away just by rotating tires earlier this year. Pretty weird, but I suspect that the tires getting worn down (naturally by driving) eventually might hit a spot where they're out of whack or something... and then they can be worn down again into balance as time passes by. Again, wheels and tires, check them and experiment again and again.
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Oct 31, 2011 16:00
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Pilsner posted:Symptoms? Maybe you've described it before, but I forgot. Its getting obnoxious, because I've been replacing parts like crazy and the speed at which it vibrates just moves around. Right now it starts at 105km/h hits its worst at 110km/h and starts to fade out by about 120km/h. New parts: - Upper and lower control arms - Tires (road force balanced twice by a really nice mechanic also bothered by the vibration) - One steering arm - Dogbones - Rear struts and springs - Sway bar links front and back Two suspects: - Warped rotors / stuck calipers (I get some pulsing on braking, even at lower speeds) - Guibo (cracked and needs to be replaced, missing a small piece on one end) The Guibo I was going to do myself but the LSD on my car makes it really hard to do unless I jack up the entire rear of the car to rotate the driveshaft. Decided to leave it to a shop for now.
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Oct 31, 2011 17:50
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 4300 miles, KY to NV nonstop both ways. Car didn't skip a beat.
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Oct 31, 2011 22:47
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Round-trip with a trailer both ways? What's in the trailer? Bonus points if you answer "Another BMW" 
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Oct 31, 2011 23:50
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Nah one way. My dad died and I had to clear his place out. Pretty hosed up story. I never met the dude and talked to him on the phone exactly twice ever like a week before he died.
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Nov 1, 2011 00:34
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Sorry to hear that 
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Nov 1, 2011 00:42
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2004 330ci sport package with 75k for $13.5. Sounds like a reasonable price no? At one point does one think mileage is a concern with an E46 with the M54? There are higher mileage ~95-110k ZHPs around the same price point that I'm considering as well.
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Nov 1, 2011 01:09
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Sounds like a pretty good price to me. I paid 15k for a loaded 2004 330Ci with 60k miles, 18" factory style 71s + set of snow wheels/tires coming up on 6 months ago. Love it to bits, haven't had any problems at all except a burned out sidemarker (less than $20 to replace). ZHPs are nice, for sure, but after driving both a ZHP and ZSP the difference honestly isn't that big. Especially after 75k+ miles where the suspensions on both aren't exactly fresh. All else being equal, I'd choose a ZHP, but if you find an immaculate ZSP I'd say jump on it. I did throw a ZHP knob into my ZSP for $55, though. A small but worth it upgrade.
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Nov 1, 2011 01:22
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destructo posted:2004 330ci sport package with 75k for $13.5. Sounds like a reasonable price no? At one point does one think mileage is a concern with an E46 with the M54? There are higher mileage ~95-110k ZHPs around the same price point that I'm considering as well. I've got 150k+ miles on on my M54, nary a problem. gently caress, knocking on so much wood right now. Stock clutch too, though it slips when ragging on the car.
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Nov 1, 2011 03:39
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Guinness posted:Sounds like a pretty good price to me. I paid 15k for a loaded 2004 330Ci with 60k miles, 18" factory style 71s + set of snow wheels/tires coming up on 6 months ago. Love it to bits, haven't had any problems at all except a burned out sidemarker (less than $20 to replace). I really like the zhp-only interior and exterior goodies. But they were roughly the same cost as a Z3m coupe. Easy choice.
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Nov 1, 2011 05:45
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8ender posted:Its getting obnoxious, because I've been replacing parts like crazy and the speed at which it vibrates just moves around. Right now it starts at 105km/h hits its worst at 110km/h and starts to fade out by about 120km/h. What about the wheels, have you tried a different set?
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Nov 1, 2011 15:17
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Even though I wired in the extra ground on my E46 tail lights months ago I just now am getting the infamous goddamned drivers side rear tail light out warning again. I guess I have to go in there and clean all the contact points etc to get it to go the gently caress away again. I'm not even going to bother with the recall fix as they are basically just doing what I've already done although if I can't get it to go away I might go for it. I also have a prob keeping the license plate light modules to stay in and have replaced those at least 3 times in the last year (they keep popping off and disappearing.) I know these little buggers fire off that same tail light out warning.
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Nov 1, 2011 17:11
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 holy gently caress my car is falling apart I have a 1997 e36 328is, in pretty good shape. or so I thought? last night as I was pulling in my driveway (thank god it was then), I heard a loud clanging, and then the sound of grinding metal. I have no loving idea, so I just parked it. I got a flashlight and looked underneath my car, and there's just a half bolted on metal rod hanging off it. ?????????????? it doesn't look like anything to do with the drivetrain - I mean thank god my transmission didn't just hit the ground, but I still have no idea what this thing is. I looked online at parts schematics, and can't figure it out. it's near the front, and hanging off the right side of the front undercarrage. it doesn't look like it originally would have fit on the car going front to back, I think it was bolted on laterally. maybe a crossbar? I don't know what a crossbar does though. trying to figure out if it's ok to keep driving? like, should I have it towed, or just drive it to a mechanic? the half of the bar that's still bolted on looks like I could just unscrew the rest of it so the thing isn't hanging there - and I might even be able to get a similar sized screw for the other side of this ~4ft long metal bar and just screw it back on. godDAMN.  
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Nov 1, 2011 17:50
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Maybe it's a sway bar? Keeps the car level while turning.
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Nov 1, 2011 18:26
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I'm pretty sure that is the underbrace.  Bridges the gap between the sides of the trans tunnel for less flex throughout the car.
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Nov 1, 2011 19:43
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mindphlux posted:
First off, that part is nothing to worry about. You can unscrew it and remove the brace. It is for chassis stiffening but is not a significant part, and will not cause any meaningful difference in how the car feels unless you're autocrossing it.  If you want to, you can order a new screw and washer to replace the ones that fell out from BMW. Your part is #7 below, and the screw and washer are obviously #s 8&9. Part numbers for the screw/washer: code:Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 20:01
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Sterndotstern posted:First off, that part is nothing to worry about. You can unscrew it and remove the brace. It is for chassis stiffening but is not a significant part, and will not cause any meaningful difference in how the car feels unless you're autocrossing it. thank you, this is amazing and probably saved me lots of auto mechanic fees :/ here I am worried my engine is about to drop out of the car or something spontaneously explode or I don't know what
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Nov 1, 2011 20:40
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mindphlux posted:thank you, this is amazing and probably saved me lots of auto mechanic fees :/ You might want to get under it and take a good long look around if things are rusted out to the point of falling off.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:42
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AlternateAccount posted:You might want to get under it and take a good long look around if things are rusted out to the point of falling off. From the pictures that underbody looks pretty clean (at least compared to my atlantic canada rustbucket). That picture of the other bolt makes it look like they started backing out for some reason.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:44
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Crustashio posted:From the pictures that underbody looks pretty clean (at least compared to my atlantic canada rustbucket). That picture of the other bolt makes it look like they started backing out for some reason. "All parts falling from this car are of the finest German quality."
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Nov 1, 2011 21:58
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You could add some loctite to that sucker for some additional help.
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Nov 2, 2011 00:02
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Keyser S0ze posted:Even though I wired in the extra ground on my E46 tail lights months ago I just now am getting the infamous goddamned drivers side rear tail light out warning again. I guess I have to go in there and clean all the contact points etc to get it to go the gently caress away again. I'm not even going to bother with the recall fix as they are basically just doing what I've already done although if I can't get it to go away I might go for it.
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Nov 2, 2011 00:14
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destructo posted:BMW just announced a recall for this, go take it to the dealer. Their fix for it is basically just wiring in the extra ground which I've already done, here is the procedure. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=512469&highlight=taillight+fix I just went and inspected all the housings and bulbs and connections again, no wear or melted connectors at all. Even though all the bulbs are working and appear fine I think one is close to being shot as when I switched them all to the other tail light the error moved over there. Just order 4 of every drat bulb along with some extra license plate bulbs from Pelican, they'll be here tomorrow, hopefully that solves this issue.
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Nov 2, 2011 01:07
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Keyser S0ze posted:Their fix for it is basically just wiring in the extra ground which I've already done, And if that doesn't solve it, it's still their problem. Recalls are not to perform a procedure, they are to repair a problem. I'm all for doing it yourself....but seriously....let them give you free parts and labor until it is right.
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Nov 2, 2011 02:11
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