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Well, quick update on the Aero: after replacing the crank sensor it now has zero stutter and runs like a champ under any load/rpm. Yay. Now I gotta shop for winter tires. 
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Oct 25, 2011 14:44
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keykey posted:The Saabs days may be numbered. The beginning of next year, my wife is going to school 80 miles round trip so she's going to be taking my car (Jetta TDI) and I will be switching over to the 9-5 wagon. I've been eyeing BMW 745Li's for the past few months as a switch of daily driver anyway since I only go 6 miles round trip to work and back including dropping the kids off and picking them up from school. What do I do Saab guys?!? Carry a spare transmission and 50 or so quarts of ATF with you. You'll be fine.
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Oct 25, 2011 14:51
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Despite having too many expenses for my current income, and having at least 1 car that I swore I'd sell before the snow fell (it hasn't fallen, yet), I'm looking at something more obnoxious than a C900 5 speed swap: 1) 1972 SAAB Sonnet, in storage for 15 years..,,Must sell, lost lease on garage. Great car to restore. Body straight and in good condition. Typical rust on floor. Koni shocks, Motorsport exhaust, 2 barrell manifold with Weber carb.  2) 1971 Saab Sonnet PROJECT car. Engine runs great, sounds good. Car is probably one day's work and $100 in parts away from being driveable. I just have too many projects underway. I have the pink slip, currently on non-op. Go online and check these out. They are rare; only 8000 were made from 1968 to 1974. They were built to dominate SCCA racing in F production. V4 front wheel drive. I was going to turn it into a street legal vintage racer. This is a cool car, though it has sat for 25 years, and is a true project. Car is located in Forest Ranch, California, about 12 miles east of Chico (two hours away from Sacramento).  The first one is quite literally the entire country span away, but is in much better shape from what I've been able to tell (without physically seeing more than what I've asked for pictures of). It's probably Sockington levels of rust, though. The second one is likely worth the body, but - I prefer the 1971, it didn't get the retarded US bumpers. Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 17:23
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Can anyone tell me which manual transmission my 1995 NG900 SE 2.0 4 cylinder turbo convertible would have? I'm trying to buy output seals. I'd also like to buy axles, but rockauto lists two different kinds. Which kind do I need? I've searched for this information, but I've had no luck.
ACEofsnett fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 17:49
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ACEofsnett posted:Can anyone tell me which manual transmission my 1995 NG900 SE 2.0 4 cylinder turbo convertible would have? I'm trying to buy output seals. I'd also like to buy axles, but rockauto lists two different kinds. Which kind do I need? I've searched for this information, but I've had no luck. A VIN would help; I can decode that. I don't have any NG900 data available anymore.
Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 17:52
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Viggen posted:A VIN would help; I can decode that. I don't have any NG900 data available anymore. The # is ys3df75n8s7000912 Thanks for your help yet again. (I don't really care who has the vin, I have nothing in my life worth taking)
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Oct 25, 2011 18:10
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ACEofsnett posted:The # is ys3df75n8s7000912 I don't have IRIS access, so I can't even tell AI if your warranty was properly handled up to the new millennium. Gearbox: 5-speed manual (of course this is all you get), but your VIN helps, when you go here to check - note the 'up to vin' and 'prior to' parts you need to check: http://thesaabsite.com/900new/NG900manualtransmissionparts.htm Then, confirm what you need by searching the parts here: http://www.jimellissaabparts.com/ It's roundabout, but I've yet to misorder phantom parts this way. Sorry I didn't find it for you, can't get JS or Flash working on this drat broken machine.
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Oct 25, 2011 18:21
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ACEofsnett posted:No, the car is running the stock tune. This makes perfect sense, actually. Would it be better to put the stock actuator from the original turbo on, or simply adjust the forge one back? If you go to either The Saab List or Saab Central, there's a guy named mike d who tunes out of New Hampshire. I got my tune done by JZW, but I have had interactions with mike in the past, and when it comes time for another ecu reflash I will problem just drive over and have him do it for me, that is if I'm not doing it myself by then.
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Oct 25, 2011 20:26
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Anyone following Saab's fight to stay afloat? Apparently a big investment deal with some Chinese companies went sour, and this week Saab needs to be able to show that they still have a reasonable shot at securing the funds needed to continue.
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Oct 27, 2011 19:50
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I wonder if it was a cash on hand issue with Youngman. I'd be surprised if Swedish Auto claimed they'd agreed on the bridge loan and Youngman wouldn't follow through. At this point, I don't really care. I have to assume Saab is not going to make it. The months long production issues is not helping them restore the brand. I mean even if the sale happens, can they make enough money churning out bargain spec 9-5s and selling them in China? Maybe if they were marketed as on the same platform as Buicks.
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Oct 27, 2011 19:56
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ACEofsnett posted:The # is ys3df75n8s7000912 The 2.16" bore one is correct; both visually and cross-referencing the part number listed on thesaabsite.
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Oct 28, 2011 05:41
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fyo posted:Anyone following Saab's fight to stay afloat? Saw this one several swedish news outlets today: http://www.thelocal.se/37012/20111028/ Saab is now 100% Chinese-owned (like Volvo), Muller just sold the whole shebang to Pang Da/Youngman.
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Oct 28, 2011 09:57
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Interesting stuff, considering I was under the impression that Pang Da/Youngman's investment deal fell through because of their desire to outright purchase Saab, but who knows what the hell was going on in their negotiations.
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Oct 28, 2011 14:28
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Mario posted:The 2.16" bore one is correct; both visually and cross-referencing the part number listed on thesaabsite. Thank you, good goon sir.
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Oct 28, 2011 15:05
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fyo posted:Interesting stuff, considering I was under the impression that Pang Da/Youngman's investment deal fell through because of their desire to outright purchase Saab, but who knows what the hell was going on in their negotiations. What happened was that Pang Da/Youngman wanted to buy Saab for 200 million kronor, which amounts to pocket change in this business. Muller told them to up the offer or gently caress off, which they did, and they bought Saab for 900 million yesterday. Can't say I'm thrilled about Saab being China-owned, but it was either that or bankruptcy.
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Oct 28, 2011 23:54
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How often do you need to add oil? 5w-40?
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Oct 28, 2011 23:56
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DisgruntledPostMan posted:How often do you need to add oil? 5w-40? Check the dipstick and add accordingly. I can't remember if Saabs are a check hot or check cold engine.
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Oct 29, 2011 00:18
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Nuclear Tourist posted:What happened was that Pang Da/Youngman wanted to buy Saab for 200 million kronor, which amounts to pocket change in this business. Muller told them to up the offer or gently caress off, which they did, and they bought Saab for 900 million yesterday. Yeah I guess we'll have to wait a year or two to see what that entails exactly. And an unrelated Saab question: were there many issues with the 2003 9-3s? There's a used linear in my area for a decent price, but I'm a little wary as that was the first iteration of a design overhaul..
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Oct 29, 2011 04:20
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fyo posted:Yeah I guess we'll have to wait a year or two to see what that entails exactly. The 03s have a couple of unique issues from the rest of the years: 1. secondary air injection pump, tends to break, is only on the 03s. 2. if it's an auto, o-rings on the coolant lines going into the transmission crack and coolant leaks in, they solved this and there were replacement parts, it only happens to 03s. If you find a car that somehow managed to slip past the TSB and it happens, and you don't notice immediately, new transmission time. Anecdotally, whenever anyone on saabcentral has real problems it always seems to be an 03 or an 04, but that may just be a factor of age. astropika fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 10:27
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Hm, well that's not as bad as I'd suspected, thanks. I guess I'll take a close look at it/stare down the seller, etc, and if it doesn't check out there are a few 2001 9-3s in the area that should be a bit more solid.
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Oct 29, 2011 15:29
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fyo posted:Hm, well that's not as bad as I'd suspected, thanks. I guess I'll take a close look at it/stare down the seller, etc, and if it doesn't check out there are a few 2001 9-3s in the area that should be a bit more solid. Not to crap on OG9-3s... but from a maintenance standpoint, and more importantly the chance that any given car I'm buying isn't hosed up, I'd rather have a 2003. Aside from the 03 faults the 03+ are probably more reliable cars, less saaby, but then is anything past the OG900 all that saaby? You know about the engine sludging? astropika fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 22:51
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I've heard much of this oil sludge, would you say that's the main reason to favor a 2003+ model? I thought the sludge problem may be a bit overblown. This pdf says the rate was about 4% affected in Sweden, and lower elsewhere.. that could be PR though. The 2001 9-3 I'm looking at has had regular oil changes with synthetic, but I still have to find out whether the oil pan was cleaned out. Anyway, I've narrowed it down to one particular '01 9-3 and the '03 9-3. $3000 private for the '01 and $4500 for the '03 from a dealer. I guess with few month warranty and a lower chance of the engine dying the extra $1500 may be worthwhile. I haven't had a chance to see either car in person yet though.
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Oct 29, 2011 23:37
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fyo posted:This pdf says the rate was about 4% affected in Sweden, and lower elsewhere.. that could be PR though. The 2001 9-3 I'm looking at has had regular oil changes with synthetic, but I still have to find out whether the oil pan was cleaned out. Well, the thing is, the oil change interval was originally 10000 miles, if the previous owner followed the oil change in the manual they will have sludged the engine for sure, even with a pcv#6 I wouldn't try 10k. Saab played the whole thing down. You'll be safe for sure if they did 3k (maybe even 5k) synthetic changes the entire lifespan and got a pcv#6. edit: drive the cars, see what you like, they handle quite differently and the base OG9-3 has a nicer interior than a linear NG9-3. Buying from a dealer is a terrible crapshoot anyway. You shouldn't care about the oil pan being cleaned if it got 3k synthetic changes or whatever, and if it got 10k synthetic changes and sludged the chances are that all sorts of stuff is worn or warped and a clean oil pan won't fix that. Viggen is the expert on all this, you should ask him. astropika fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Oct 30, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 23:51
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How the hell do you change the crank position sensor? How the hell do you change the crank position sensor? I can't for the life of me find a way to get to it with a socket from the top or bottom. My fiance doing it is right out as he can't even get his hand to it. It's not a "Has to be done" part swap out but we ordered one last time we bought parts since it was cheap as hell and we were ordering an armload of stuff anyhow.
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Oct 30, 2011 12:58
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fyo posted:I've heard much of this oil sludge, would you say that's the main reason to favor a 2003+ model? I thought the sludge problem may be a bit overblown. If the car was taken care of, it's likely fine. Many SAAB owners treat them like Toyotas, since they're either trust fund, or wives of lawyers. You need to be very selective as to what you buy. I own 2 sludgers, and I love them. One's got over 181k, the other 103k, and neither were horribly abused, and neither were pampered. Faerunner posted:How the hell do you change the crank position sensor? Sorry for lovely resolution; on a backup VirtualBox at the moment. I checked on my 9-3, and I have no idea how the hell to fit anything without enslaving asian children. Good thing we're owned by the Chinese now, huh?     
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Oct 30, 2011 20:01
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 Can you experienced gentlemen give me a quick run down of all the reasons why I shouldn't do this? Just out of curiosity, is 230000mi a lot of this car? I mean I know it's a lot but I'm wondering how they fare compared to other cars. Are parts impossible to source or just incredibly difficult? Pardon my ignorance; I'm researching now but I just have zero knowledge of old Saabs and the sooner I can decide if I should hop on this the better. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Oct 31, 2011 |
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Oct 31, 2011 14:58
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The turbo is likely to be dead; it should be inspected for shaft play or leaking seals (check for oil smoke at startup). If it is dead, you may be in for a pretty hefty bill to replace it or a slightly smaller one to repair the turbo, and I would imagine that even a low-pressure Saab is not very much fun to drive without boost. If the driver's seat has a heating element, that heating element is probably damaged from having someone's rear end in it for 230k mi.
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Oct 31, 2011 16:40
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Replaced another window roller this weekend, what did you guys fix on your Saab?
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Oct 31, 2011 16:50
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 oh hell yes
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Oct 31, 2011 21:48
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MALCOLM XTREME posted:
I am so in. Also, anyone want a pile of poo poo? craigslist posted:http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/2678600511.html 
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Oct 31, 2011 23:10
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My 2001 9-3 with 137,000 miles is starting to burn a significant amount of oil at start-up, but otherwise doesn't consume an abnormal amount of oil when running (Less than 1qt between oil changes). Am I looking at a turbo rebuild, or is there another cause of this?
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Oct 31, 2011 23:17
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Petekill posted:My 2001 9-3 with 137,000 miles is starting to burn a significant amount of oil at start-up, but otherwise doesn't consume an abnormal amount of oil when running (Less than 1qt between oil changes). Am I looking at a turbo rebuild, or is there another cause of this? It's usually the turbo. Do you get the puff of white smoke at startup?
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Oct 31, 2011 23:45
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Viggen posted:It's usually the turbo. Do you get the puff of white smoke at startup? It started out as a puff quite a while back, now it's a concerningly large cloud of bluish-white smoke.
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Nov 1, 2011 03:36
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Petekill posted:It started out as a puff quite a while back, now it's a concerningly large cloud of bluish-white smoke. You're going to want to fix that. I'd be willing to say it's gone, but still give it a wiggle test. You may be able to find a rebuild for around $500, or can always try the used market. I've seen G17s and TD04s for ~$150 or so on Craigslist, but lord knows what kind of shape they were in.
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Nov 1, 2011 05:11
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So, GM just said 'gently caress you, we're not gonna let you sell to the Chinese' to former-Spyker. I'm getting tired of this melodrama.
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Nov 8, 2011 00:09
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My dash lights died last week. The SID and the little screen showing my mileage are still lit up, but everything else, including the radio and AC stuff are unlit. I'm assuming this is a fuse issue, but wanted to run it by this thread, before I went out and bought the fuse.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:05
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Are the interior lights working (not buttons)? If not, check fuse 4. (Assuming first gen 9-3 from memory, but that's not great, either.)
Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 18:34
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ed: fixed my fuses because oops.Karl Barks posted:My dash lights died last week. The SID and the little screen showing my mileage are still lit up, but everything else, including the radio and AC stuff are unlit. Year & model? First things first, turn up the brightness knob/switch  OK, so it's not that. On my 2003 9-3, I'd check fuses 4 (10A, instruments) and 14 (20A, SID/Radio) in the door panel. If those look OK, turn on the night panel. Do you get backlights on the radio & AC? Pull fuse 14 and start the car up. Do you get dash lights? On my 9-3 I've got a situation whereby I have no lighting on the instrument cluster ever, except for the idiot lights & mileage. If I turn on night panel mode the radio & AC is backlit, but still nothing on the IC. BUT, if I pull the SID/radio fuse, the lights come on. My mechanic and this is a somewhat rare but possible failure condition, and typically indicates that the computer controlling the SID is shot (SIDC, which has the SID control knob, night panel button, brightness rocker, etc.) Speaking of which -- anyone know of a good source for SIDCs? Dealership quoted me something around seven or eight hundred for parts alone...
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Dec 1, 2011 18:34
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Kim Jong III posted:ed: fixed my fuses because oops. In night mode, it doesn't use data from the rheostat. If your rheostat shits itself, the DICE will use the 'last good' info until the new value shows up on the bus. Check to see your load. It'll poo poo the bed if you're drawing too much, too. Can't tell you what the magic numbers are, though.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:38
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Viggen posted:In night mode, it doesn't use data from the rheostat. If your rheostat shits itself, the DICE will use the 'last good' info until the new value shows up on the bus. I thought on the 2nd gen 9-3 the button wasn't a rheostat anymore. I'll have to pull up WIS but I think it is on the bus and actually sends some sort of signal on push. Am I wrong?
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Dec 1, 2011 18:47
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