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TVs Ian posted:Aaaaaaaaaaaand I made the mistake of scrolling down to the comments section. Stupid, stupid. You and me both. I'm not sure I'll ever learn.  That idiot has way too much charm and sway with stupid people. Is it so hard to do a little research, or at least not act like a defensive, close-minded rear end when presented with some? This has happened with almost every Cesar fan I've talked to. Ugh.Somebody needs to fund an entertaining TV show starring people like Patricia McConnell, Sophia Yin, Emily Larlham, etc., because that's the only thing that gets anyone's attention these days.  edit: vvv Oh don't I know it, I already argued with some idiots on Facebook about Judge Adams. Why must people derive so much pleasure from being the dominant/master/controller/bully/rear end in a top hat. Can't we all just get along...
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Nov 3, 2011 20:12
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Skizzles posted:You and me both. I'm not sure I'll ever learn. Based on the tons of comments I've read in that Judge Adams thread, people love being able to inflict corporal punishment, both on their kids and their pets. Even BETTER if they have the "logic" from this nice man with an accent and pretty teeth telling them that it's meant to be that way.
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Nov 3, 2011 20:25
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Skizzles posted:Why must people derive so much pleasure from being the dominant/master/controller/bully/rear end in a top hat. Can't we all just get along... Earlier today I was looking up something for a friend who has an anxious/bitey rat, and I found this fantastic gem: 'Take a tip from your big dude rat...Show the little thug who is *really* in charge. [snip]. Put some of your urine in a cup and set it aside. Grab the little imp and flip him on his back, agressively scratch his belly and brush your urine on his nose and belly and sex organs... If he protests, yell:"NO!" and continue to hold him on his back. Release him. If he gets up fast, throw him on his back and hold him till he squeaks. When he gets up slowly, let him. Do this several times a day when you feel like it and especially if he gets nippy. [Ratlist, April 2003]' A lot of people are just dicks
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Nov 3, 2011 21:57
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I... 
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Nov 3, 2011 22:04
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Fraction posted:Earlier today I was looking up something for a friend who has an anxious/bitey rat, and I found this fantastic gem: That's it, from now on when the dogs act up, I'm just gonna let fly all over them! Way easier to do than get up to alpha roll. Just gotta keep a liter of Mountain Dew handy! 
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Nov 3, 2011 22:08
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a life less posted:Here's a decent video discussing one of the hotter issues of dog training today: Good video. I think he could have expressed himself a little better with more examples, but still, it's nice that people are talking about it. The comments are horrid though. I knew that Cesar's methods were poo poo and that people believed them. What I didn't realized was that he styles himself as a 'animal behaviorist' and that these people watching actually believe his methods work on aggressive dogs (and that training tricks is somehow completely separate from training behavior). I imagine none of them have ever dealt with or seen a really reactive dog and I hope they never do because those techniques will get them bit and the dog punished, I'm sure. The only person who commented who said they actually HAVE an aggressive dog was all for positive methods. I'd post my experiences as well, but it'll just be drowned out in the echo chamber that is the internet. Plus, I hate people who can't be bothered to spell things properly.
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Nov 4, 2011 01:17
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Kiri koli posted:Good video. I think he could have expressed himself a little better with more examples, but still, it's nice that people are talking about it. Yeah I didn't feel he expanded on things enough or gave enough details. Just seemed kinda rambly, but yeah, I am glad someone is throwing this stuff out there. Despite the depressing comments. I threw in my quick 2cents but if I get any replies I'm not reading them. I just wanted to say my peace and leave it alone, because I know if I don't, I'm going to punch someone.
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Nov 4, 2011 02:19
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How do I train my dog to make me coffee in the morning. This would greatly help streamline my morning routine
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Nov 4, 2011 02:22
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Get coffee maker ready to go before bed --> train dog to hit "brew/on" button. Bam. Assuming your coffee maker is as simple as my mother's.
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Nov 4, 2011 02:25
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I've just started using a french press I think this is going to be complicated 
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Nov 4, 2011 04:15
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notsoape posted:Just a little update on the aforementioned broohaha over dog training philosophies happening in the UK at the moment. Hey guys remember this? I just read a post on another forum that says: quote:A couple tried a training method they'd seen on TV by a guy who had a small training segment on a popular teatime TV show. The training method involved pushing a resource guarder away from it's possession with your feet etc. Well, this couple tried the same "miracle training method" on their GSD and it ended up biting their 18 month old grandchild. It was PTS the next day. So there's obviously been some fallout. I believe the trainer is no longer being employed by the show, but I don't know for sure. It boggles my mind that people gravitate so strongly to these heavily aversive training methods when the potential issues that can arise from them are so severe.
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Nov 4, 2011 13:46
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Oh that just made my heart sink... I've half-heartedly tossed around the idea of making my own "Why Cesar isn't that great" type video, just because I really want something out there to expand on all the things that fellow didn't. It wouldn't be an angry rant video, as much as I'd like to, but a more objective, "okay, here's the evidence/examples" kinda deal. Judging from that guy's video though I'll be better off either disabling comments or simply never reading them. I would consult you guys about what I want to say in it before making it public, of course, because I'd don't want to leave out/screw up something, and multiple perspectives help. I don't have much in the way of video making/editing skills though, so I don't think I could get too fancy with it. Meh, we'll see.
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Nov 4, 2011 18:51
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Skizzles posted:Oh that just made my heart sink... The problem is its your (our) word against Cesar's. Unlike him, I can't make a video of my dog getting better through positive training methods because it's a long, slow process that doesn't lend itself to dramatic television (though me correcting my dog like Cesar does would be a dramatic statement of this is how you get yourself bit!). And if the people who make comments were capable of listening to logical, reasoned arguments (like why suppressing behavior in a fearful, reactive/aggressive dog is just stupid on all levels), then they would have already realized that Cesar's videos have no follow-up and they have no idea if his methods work off-camera or in not-hand-picked situations or if they end up like the example posted above. It's not that its hopeless, or not worth doing, but you're better off targeting specific audiences, like the PIers who try to help people who come here looking for advice, on other dog related websites, or making helpful pamphlets for shelters (was that you?). Unless there's a hidden youtube audience that's waayy more reasonable than the commentors...
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Nov 4, 2011 19:05
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Oh yeah, that was part of why I wanted to make it, to have all the evidence against him and his methods conveniently crammed into one video to show people who come here for training advice, etc. It would be easier to have such a thing handy than to write up a new discussion every time it's mentioned. And people have a better attention span for videos than reading, unfortunately. I really didn't have any high hopes of convincing any people like the YouTube commenters. But if it got even one or two people thinking, well then, that's good enough for me. I'm one of those possibly naive people who feels bad if I shut up and don't say anything (if you guys hadn't guessed yet ). I mainly want to get it off my chest, and that alone will make me feel loads better, as long as the information is out there at all.
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Nov 4, 2011 19:11
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It seems like part of the problem people seem to have to positive reinforcement as opposed to Milan is that R+ uses food, which people equate with feeding dogs for doing cutesy tricks. It's hard to convince people that tricks are a behaviour, just like reactivity, etc. it doesn't help R+ to the layperson because dominance training IS much more exciting to watch. I enjoy watching shaping videos, training videos, etc, but I'm a huge doglady. The average person trying to get Lucky to stop trying to bite the mailman is going to find dominance vids more exciting. Plus dominance theory legitimises violence against something and since we are humans we enjoy lashing out. With more laws coming out to prevent physical punishment to children, it's 'natural' that the species that acts often as a pretend child will be treated more and more harshly like the kids of old.
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Nov 4, 2011 19:16
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^^^Yeah, that's why I think having an audience in mind really helps. It would be a lot of fun to see PIer videos of training their dogs. I've always had in the back of my mind the idea of video taping my dog's classes. It's supposed to help you measure their progress and plus I would be able to show people her worst behavior and how I handle it (people tend not to believe me). I've just been too lazy to do it... There are a lot of video demonstrations of training techniques on youtube already though. I'm the type to get discouraged and not do something if I think others have already done it better. But maybe there doesn't exist a summary of positive reinforcement vs dominance techniques video that we're happy with? I mean, if that was the best one...
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Nov 4, 2011 19:21
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Fraction posted:It seems like part of the problem people seem to have to positive reinforcement as opposed to Milan is that R+ uses food, which people equate with feeding dogs for doing cutesy tricks. It's hard to convince people that tricks are a behaviour, just like reactivity, etc. I would indeed touch on these points, and make it clear that rewarding =/= bribery if you're doing it right, since I know that is also a popular opinion among some people. Kiri koli posted:But maybe there doesn't exist a summary of positive reinforcement vs dominance techniques video that we're happy with? I mean, if that was the best one... This is part of my motivation. But I may also just be a crazy, uppity doglady with too-high standards. Also yes, record Psyche's training! I would be interested to see.
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Nov 4, 2011 20:24
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People LOVE seeing cool tricks (remember that video of the JRT doing tons of tricks around the house?) and if you can put together a snappy video with ~*amazing*~ tricks like that and R+ training sprinkled in, I think people would be interested. I'm a video editor by trade and would be happy to help out in a project like this. All of you PI training dorks have helped me so much with figuring out how to be a good dog lady and train Orbit in ways that both of us enjoy.
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Nov 4, 2011 20:38
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Fraction posted:It seems like part of the problem people seem to have to positive reinforcement as opposed to Milan is that R+ uses food, which people equate with feeding dogs for doing cutesy tricks. It's hard to convince people that tricks are a behaviour, just like reactivity, etc. One of the things I always notice on my walks is that people see that I have a bag of treats and automatically assume my dog must be a puppy (admittedly he looks like a puppy). Because why would you have treats unless you're training your puppy? There's no recognition that if your dog only gets one walk a day, that walk needs to be as much about training as exercise. Their adult dog is "friendly" so they don't need to bring rewards on the walk.
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Nov 4, 2011 20:39
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aliceamadee posted:People LOVE seeing cool tricks (remember that video of the JRT doing tons of tricks around the house?) and if you can put together a snappy video with ~*amazing*~ tricks like that and R+ training sprinkled in, I think people would be interested. This is true, SHOWING rather than telling the benefits of positive reinforcement is often better. Even though when I try to show Cesar fans such R+ videos I'm just met with "well yeah no poo poo R+ is good, CESAR USES IT TOO Y'KNOW *leash pops their dog's prong collar when it goes to sniff another dog*" The toughest crowd seems to be the, "yeah well it worked on my dog so obviously his methods are good." They don't seem to understand that a lot of things work, but they're not always necessarily the best or most humane ways. I would very much like a good comparison/analogy to use for this in the video if anyone has one. Something like "yeah well I could duct tape my kid to the wall to keep it out of trouble, but that's not the best way," except better, because I suck at analogies. Your help would be wonderfully appreciated if I decide to do it. 
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Nov 4, 2011 21:04
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aliceamadee posted:People LOVE seeing cool tricks (remember that video of the JRT doing tons of tricks around the house?) and if you can put together a snappy video with ~*amazing*~ tricks like that and R+ training sprinkled in, I think people would be interested. Something that mixed together tricks and general behaviour (LLW, maybe?) all trained by R+/P- would be pretty cool. I think most videos tend to focus either on "this is trick training to teach your dogs to do cute things" or "this is what to do when your dog does X thing that you don't like". A video that introduced everything all in one neat, tidy package (maybe with clips of a range of different people in different places working with their dogs, showing how the same principles of R+/P- can be used anywhere with any dog) would actually be something new, and good for the thread especially I think. If someone does something like this and puts it on youtube, definitely disable comments unless you want to deal with the idiots though 
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Nov 4, 2011 22:49
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I think what helps change people's minds is really pushing how FUN it is. I live in a farming town, and a lot of people are way into traditional training. A couple of shelters around here have very active Facebook pages that current and potential adopters frequent. I have been linking to kikopup videos and such, talking about just how much more FUN this is than "oh gee is my dog going to do something wrong ARGHH I WILL CORRECT HIM" My mom was a pretty big Cesar fan. When I adopted my dog (an akita of all stubborn breeds) I invited her over to show off some training! Granted he came with good basic obedience, he pulled a little bit on the leash. With a clicker and treats, she saw how quickly he picked up on loose-leash. More importantly, she saw how fun it was! My mom even had a go on shaping him to do a trick, she had a blast. She was never the training type either. She had the greatest comment too, "The dogs in these videos look so much happier than Cesar's! His dogs aren't allowed to think.... "
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Nov 4, 2011 23:29
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Skizzles posted:Also yes, record Psyche's training! I would be interested to see. I decided not to video today's class because it was our first time indoors in a couple months and it's close quarters, so it's always hard for her. Also, I only have my nice camera to make videos and I didn't want my husband trying to juggle that and help me at the same time. It looks like we're going to be starting one-on-one sessions (with a upcoming (somewhat inexperienced) trainer, so she's affordable!). It will be easier to tape those and I really will want a record of her progress as my goal is to take her from where she is now (able to be around and even interact with people, but still with major triggers that can really escalate) to having a 'friend', someone she can be around loose without danger. This is really vital because eventually my husband and I will need to travel and leave her with someone. So if that turns out to be interesting, I'll post it! I'm curious if anyone has any comments/suggestions on what we did in class today. Psyche was having trouble being in close quarters as I mentioned, so at first I was trying walking her out from behind a barrier so she would see the dogs and then retreat. I wanted to do it BAT style (walk her out, get a calming signal, then give her a reprieve...this has been successful in the past at greater distance), but she just wasn't able to do it. So on a whim, I threw a treat out from behind the barrier so she had to go find it and then I called her back. This worked really well, she was totally focused on the treat (this is new, this has failed in the past) and calmed down a lot. So then we started having her go out to my husband to get a treat and then come back. Then we started putting the treat on a target to eliminate my husband (he was blocking her view a lot) from the equation. It was pretty obvious that the work aspect was really helping her. On the ride home I was trying to figure out how we can expand this beyond, hey, I threw a treat, go get it. I've come up empty though because she doesn't care that much about toys, won't hold stuff in her mouth, and her normal set of tricks don't hold her attention like other types of work (sniffing out treats, navigating agility equipment). Anyway, I am totally rambling by now, so if anyone has any thoughts, please share! Kiri koli fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 01:14
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I'm not exactly sure what you're looking for, but I could see you turning that into a sort of "focus front" behaviour. That is, hold a sit-stay and on a cue look forward at where you want to go. It requires self control, and is a pretty natural progression of "get the treat". I use it when I sit Cohen at a start line in agility - I raise an arm and tell her to "watch" and she'll look forward at the first jump. I taught it by getting her to watch her food bowl before being released (and then plenty of repetitions in different environments). It's just an idea, but between "focus* [on me]", "watch [what's in front of you]" and "look [at that]" I can imagine it might be helpful to direct your dog in where they're looking both as a fun game and a useful cue to manage reactivity. * Yes, I've muddled my cues a bit. Most people use "focus" for focus front, and "watch" for watch me. Ah well.
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Nov 5, 2011 04:36
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a life less posted:I'm not exactly sure what you're looking for, but I could see you turning that into a sort of "focus front" behaviour. That is, hold a sit-stay and on a cue look forward at where you want to go. It requires self control, and is a pretty natural progression of "get the treat". I don't really know what I'm looking for either. Psyche has made a lot of progress on focus on me, but it always goes like this: see stimulus, start getting upset, look back at me (yay!), get rewarded, immediately look back at stimulus and start getting upset again. No matter how much duration I add to the focus, no matter how I turn her around or try to get her to walk with me or focus on me again, she's twisting around to look again. And that's my fault. She's a very curious dog and I've encouraged her to Look at That because I think NOT looking also makes her anxious. Sometimes it's great, she looks and then brings her focus back and we make progress. But when she's close to the edge, I can't keep up with bringing her focus back. That was our problem last night. You know how some dogs, if you give them a toy or stick to carry in their mouth (or other job), you see a great decrease in their reactivity/excitability? That's what we were getting last night with sending her out to get a treat (I use Go Get It, which is a cue I've been working on separately with toys/my husband) . She wasn't immediately looking for something upsetting anymore. It was work that took her concentration the way focusing/sitting/tricks don't. I'm not sure why it was different. I wasn't hiding the treats or even throwing them very far, so it wasn't like real sniffing work. And I WAS throwing them in the direction of the dogs, so she had to walk out head-on (very difficult for her). Anyway, maybe I can try using rewarding targets in the distance, get her to watch them, and then go to them. Not very practical outside of class though...
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Nov 5, 2011 14:06
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Kiri koli posted:Anyway, maybe I can try using rewarding targets in the distance, get her to watch them, and then go to them. Not very practical outside of class though... How is she with 'touch'? If Lola is too close to the edge of reacting to be able to look to and fro between me and the thing, cuing her to target my hand works great: it brings her closer to me, and usually therefore away from the thing (though I can also use touch to keep her focus if we need to get past or closer to the thing) in a very fun for Lola, non-confrontational way. 'Touch' gives her something to focus on other than just looking and moving. She also likes to carry stuff in her mouth and gets all giddy and less likely to react if she's carrying things though so YMMV. It'd be easier to really ramp up the value of 'touch' over targeting something you have to carry though, as you (generally) always have your hand with you. 
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Nov 5, 2011 14:18
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Fraction posted:How is she with 'touch'? She's very good with Touch under normal circumstances. We've worked on it a lot both normally and as part of our recalls. We go out in the yard with her on a 50 foot leash and call her back and forth between us. When she gets to us, she has to do a touch (which can involve jumping to get the hand, she's very enthusiastic about the finish  ). We were also doing that last night: alternatively with asking her to go get a treat, she was asked to go touch my husband's hand for a treat. But as I said, this is the first time we've done something like this successfully. I have not tried Touch in any situations where she might be close to reacting because I was never sure where to work it in. Her default behavior that we've cultivated is to sit and look at me (usually followed by treat/look back at stimulus/look at me/etc with various small barks and whines). Sometimes I cue this, but lately I've been allowing her to make that decision herself if the stimulus is not too bad. If she's close to a bad reaction, I just feed her and try to get her to a point where she can sit/focus/turn around and walk away (as long as she's under threshold, otherwise I just make her leave). Offering her a hand in the latter case in the past would have carried a I can try it as an alternative to sit/look at me. Like when she is first doing her look/bark/growl, ask for a Touch to turn her back to me. I'm not sure if this is better than her default (which we've worked really hard on!), but maybe something new and a little more challenging will be fun for her. Or I can use it for the turn around and walk away. I do backaways for this usually and they work except in the extreme cases. Silly dog, why do you have to be so complicated! *Edit: I shouldn't say a good chance, it was never that bad and I do put my hand near her face to feed her up until she shows signs that she will be going over threshold at any second. I've always been careful about putting things in front of her face when she is close to threshold though because that is one of her triggers and it's best just to avoid it. Counter-conditioning is really the only option at that point. Kiri koli fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 14:38
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quote:If she's close to a bad reaction, I just feed her and try to get her to a point where she can sit/focus/turn around and walk away (as long as she's under threshold, otherwise I just make her leave). Offering her a hand in the latter case in the past would have carried a good chance her redirecting onto the hand. Admittedly Lola doesn't redirect onto me (though if she's excited--rather than anxious--she'll sometimes redirect onto Jess urgh), but would Psyche redirect onto your hand if it was actually placed further away from her than the rest of your body is? Like, if you walk Psyche on your left, build up your right hand as the hand to target and have that hand stretched away from her. quote:I can try it as an alternative to sit/look at me. Like when she is first doing her look/bark/growl, ask for a Touch to turn her back to me. I'm not sure if this is better than her default (which we've worked really hard on!), but maybe something new and a little more challenging will be fun for her. Or I can use it for the turn around and walk away. I do backaways for this usually and they work except in the extreme cases. I do find that Lola is able to keep her mind better if I ask her to touch, rather than asking (or waiting) for a sit. For an example, here's the process if I was asking Lola for a touch to stop a reaction: Trigger appears. L looks at trigger, looks back. Mark and treat (MT). L looks at trigger too intensely (ears too forward, leaning, staring, any vocalisations). Back up slightly from L and cue touch. L immediately turns away from trigger, closes the distance, and ignores trigger as we walk away. It's always good to try new things with dawgs and see what works best too
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Nov 5, 2011 14:59
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Fraction posted:Admittedly Lola doesn't redirect onto me (though if she's excited--rather than anxious--she'll sometimes redirect onto Jess urgh), but would Psyche redirect onto your hand if it was actually placed further away from her than the rest of your body is? Like, if you walk Psyche on your left, build up your right hand as the hand to target and have that hand stretched away from her. In the scenario I'm talking about, Psyche is totally focused on the trigger, staring hard, posture rigid, and growling. She won't look away for anything and anything that crosses her vision is a trigger. In fact, I only got my hand bit once (and that was just really bad timing), it was almost always my leg that got redirected on to. So really, only counter-conditioning works until the trigger leaves or something changes and she is able to back off that behavior. quote:I do find that Lola is able to keep her mind better if I ask her to touch, rather than asking (or waiting) for a sit. Psyche is really, really good at her sits (they happen simultaneously with her look back at me like 90% of the time) in all but the worst situations as described above. But I like your progression. You get the look back, which you treat, and then use the Touch as a follow-up to walk away. I guess my follow-up is weak. Backaways work a lot, but not all the time and when we start to walk away after the backaways, she's still always twisting to look back and she stops if the trigger is still intense enough. So maybe I should try Touch there instead. Or both, since a backaway is just walking back a few steps, which is supposed to cue the dog to run to you.
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Nov 5, 2011 15:19
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At what age can we start letting Hurley stay out of the crate when we leave the house? Is it an age thing, or more of a behavior thing? I don't even know how to go about figuring out how to tell if he's ready.
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Nov 5, 2011 15:32
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It's more a behaviour thing than anything else. I started leaving Cohen out when she was 6-7 months old. I know some people who still crate their 2+ year old dogs. I know your pup is an only dog, but if you have multiple dogs it's always wise to crate when you're gone - safety first and all that. I would start feeling it out by leaving him out for 15 minutes at a time (in a puppy proofed area) and seeing how he does. Gradually increase the amount of time you leave him alone over the course of a month or so. Don't stop crating cold turkey. Make sure he's good and tired before you leave him out, and leave a few things out for him to chew on.
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Nov 5, 2011 15:47
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I think we might start trying it soon. He really isn't destructive at all. The things he likes to lightly play with/chew on are tissues from the trashcan in the bathroom and a fleece blanket we have on the couch. We generally shut the bathroom/bedroom doors now and he doesn't make a fuss with anything else. He did have that accident the other week in the house, but it's because we missed his cue. I guess the only way to know is to try, huh? We really don't have a "puppy proof" area, unfortunately. Our living room is wide open and goes directly into the kitchen so there isn't a place we could keep him that wouldn't involve him being shut in a room.
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Nov 5, 2011 15:50
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We actually just leave Asa in her crate. We tried leaving her out of it, and she gets horrible seperation anxiety. In the crate, nothing. I've webcam recorded to verify and yeah. Different strokes and all that, but some dogs are really, really happy in their crate, and I'm lucky enough to have one!
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Nov 6, 2011 00:09
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I saw a few people above talking about barking when someone comes to the door (with Halloween recently and all of that) and I was wondering where to even begin with controlling something like that? We have been clicker training Henry for a good few months now and he's passed beginner puppy class ( ), so I was wondering what the best way to go about this was? We are in an apartment complex so people walk by/slam doors/knock on our door fairly often. We've been using the clicker less recently and are pretty good with hand signals/commands for the basics.Obligatory graduation picture: 
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Nov 6, 2011 00:47
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Frinkahedron posted:I saw a few people above talking about barking when someone comes to the door (with Halloween recently and all of that) and I was wondering where to even begin with controlling something like that? We have been clicker training Henry for a good few months now and he's passed beginner puppy class ( Cute! For barking at the door/people in the hall, you want to start with desensitization and counter-conditioning. You can do this in two ways: one, enlist a friend to come over and knock on the door for training sessions where you just feed your dog when there is noise in the hall. Or two, just have treats ready during heavy traffic hour and do it for random people in the hall instead of a pre-arranged friend. You can use the clicker to mark a knock, if you want, but it isn't necessary. Outside of training sessions, don't allow your dog to practice the behavior you don't want by redirecting him away from whatever he's barking at (distract with a toy, bring into another room, etc). You should eventually start to see progress and then you can decide if you need to do addition things, like some people train their dogs to go to a crate or a bed when they hear a knock on the door. If your dog's barking doesn't get better as you work on counter-conditioning or training a different behavior, then consider that your dog is barking from boredom or habit and up his exercise, make sure he isn't practicing bad behavior (like when you aren't home), etc. I should mention that barking at noises outside can also be an anxiety problem, but this would be accompanied by other signs (hypervigilance, reactivity, extreme shyness).
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Nov 6, 2011 07:05
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Kiri koli posted:Cute! During the day he is crated in the back bedroom where he can't hear the door, so no worries about him barking at it when unsupervised. Thanks for the tips
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Nov 6, 2011 07:21
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So as I wait for my copy of 'Focus not fear' to arrive, Dixie seems to have regressed to where she was when I first got her 10 months ago; Losing her mind for any and all cars and squirrels and if there are none of those around she'll just choose something else to have a bark at. Due to this I'm about to try starting from scratch. I've begun clicker training albeit we're still in the first phases of that. I've decided that baby-steps may be best for her and as such I'm working strictly indoors then I'll progress to yard and then slowly get more into the street/park. My only concern is she won't be getting much exercise this way. I'm wondering if this is just a necessary evil of having to train such a reactive dog? Also does this seem like the best way to go about addressing this reactivity? I work long shifts and as such have a dog walker when I work days and cant get home. The new dog walker has been taking her on the street and I'm wondering if this over exposure to stimulus has caused this current set-back. I have also abandoned the prongs and picked her up a brand new head halter, even has a padded nose. But she fights it non-stop and I find she pulls a lot more on this. Any tips on how to combat this and how to correct with this halter when you have a dog pulling every which way? I'm approaching her 1 year anniversary with me and I'd like to be able to look back and say we've made some progress.
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Nov 8, 2011 05:45
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Before this regression, what methods were you using when she reacted to something/to prevent reactive episodes? Are you 100% certain that the walker was using the same methods? Sometimes conflicting training methods will make a dog just stick to 'one' - whichever is the most appealing and reinforcing. Edit: NEVER physically correct on a head halter. You can seriously injure your dog's neck.
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Nov 8, 2011 08:29
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Hey goons, could you help me out with my parents' golden retriever puppy? She's about 12-14 weeks old, and is quite obedient (treating her when she's obeys, ignoring or distracting her when she doesn't). Trouble is, she's lazy as all hell. It's really tough to get her to do anything vaguely exerting. We can just barely get her involved in a tug-of-war, but she loses interest within seconds. Balls, sticks, stuffed animals or other toys don't even register on her radar. And when we go outside with her, she usually just goes to sleep. Pretty much the only time we can get her to exert herself, is when my uncle is around, and he brings his older labrador. Only then do the two of them run around and play like stereotypical dogs. So, what can I do to turn this lazy bitch, into an active puppy? I don't want her to end up as a tub of lard in the future
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Nov 8, 2011 12:58
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| # ? May 15, 2024 12:22 |
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inscrutable horse posted:Hey goons, could you help me out with my parents' golden retriever puppy? She's about 12-14 weeks old, and is quite obedient (treating her when she's obeys, ignoring or distracting her when she doesn't). Trouble is, she's lazy as all hell. It's really tough to get her to do anything vaguely exerting. We can just barely get her involved in a tug-of-war, but she loses interest within seconds. Balls, sticks, stuffed animals or other toys don't even register on her radar. And when we go outside with her, she usually just goes to sleep. Take her to the vet and get panels done to see if there is a medical reason for the lethargy that you perceive. If she's sick, treat the condition. However, if they come back normal you need to remember that puppies need a lot of sleep at this age, she's literally just a baby. Two months ago she was a potato that could barely swim around. Wait til she goes through adolescence and then worry about her being lazy or prone to obesity in the future. Also remember that at this age puppies joints are quite delicate and overexertion could literally cripple the dog for the rest of her life if the growth plates get damaged. You need to allow her to dictate her own exercise regimen at this age. That said; definitely go to the vets and get her checked out fully. I assume she's jabbed and such?
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Nov 8, 2011 13:12
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