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I recently received a random 27" mac monitor in my office but it uses mini-display port to connect. Is there any way to connect that thing to a PC? Otherwise, I'm gonna have to trade it with some mac user for their ultrasharp.
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Nov 5, 2011 01:29
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Video card with a displayport, or a displayport adapter.
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Nov 5, 2011 01:38
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I think that there may be something wrong with my GPU, my best guess is that it might have something to do with the VRAM. Are there any programs out there that can test my GPUs VRAM for any problems like how MemTest can test regular RAM?
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Nov 5, 2011 02:03
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StickFigs posted:I think that there may be something wrong with my GPU, my best guess is that it might have something to do with the VRAM. You can run FurMark's burn test mode. You'd be looking for anything to screw up, really, as it's really a general purpose test and can't target VRAM specifically.
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Nov 5, 2011 02:25
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StickFigs posted:I think that there may be something wrong with my GPU, my best guess is that it might have something to do with the VRAM. If your card has GDDR5, usually it will not cause artifacting as instead graphical performance will slow down while the VRAM attempts to compensate (stuttering). If it were serious VRAM issues with GDDR5, you'd see major graphical corruption before the OS boots (cooked VRM's can also do this). Artifacting in games would point to issues with the GPU core (possibly voltage or overheating), and artifacts on the desktop can occasionally indicate serious GPU core damage (aka RMA time). Still, test with either Furmark as Factory Factory suggested, or use MSI Afterburner and run Kombuster via the "K" button on the left. This will also allow you to monitor temperatures and GPU usage during the test. future ghost fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 03:31
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grumperfish posted:What GPU and what do you mean by something wrong? Artifacts? Stuttering? Game CTOD's? It's a GeForce GTX 460 and I think it might be VRAM just on a hunch. What's been happening is randomly my screen will go black when I have a bunch of stuff open and the HDD access light stays on flickering indefinitely and none of the keyboard inputs I do seem to affect anything. The only way to get out of it is to hit the reset button on my PC. I'm also getting this error in TF2 when I load a different map for the 3rd or 4th time: code:The reason I suspect it's the GPUs VRAM is because of the black screen thing which reminds me of when the nvidia drivers crash but I could be wrong.
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Nov 5, 2011 08:13
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Install Gentoo posted:What happens if you try to install Windows to the SSD? (I assume you are currently using it as extra storage) I tried to install the windows 8 preview on it just to see what would happen (I figured if it didn't work I would just try 7 next). It installed allegedly fine, but it still would not boot, and I still was unable to boot into my HD with Windows 7. I removed the SSD, which previously upon doing so I was able to boot into my old Windows 7 HD without any problem. Now, though, I get knocked into the Windows Recovery Environment. If I tell it to "load to another OS" it loads just fine, but everytime I boot it starts to the RE. I tried startup repair from my Windows 7 disc, it didn't find any errors, but still wouldn't boot so I used system restore, still no dice. What seems strange to me is that no matter how I set my boot order in my BIOS it doesn't seem to respect my settings. Edit: Boy what a pain in the rear end. Bootrec didn't work at all. What I ultimately had to do to get Windows 7 to load normally was re-attach the SSD and then, from the Windows 8 install USB, change the default starting operating system in their OS chooser tool to Windows 7 and then finally remove the SSD again. I guess when I have some free time again I'll try throwing Windows 7 on the SSD. Rick fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 10:02
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StickFigs posted:It's a GeForce GTX 460 and I think it might be VRAM just on a hunch. What's been happening is randomly my screen will go black when I have a bunch of stuff open and the HDD access light stays on flickering indefinitely and none of the keyboard inputs I do seem to affect anything. The only way to get out of it is to hit the reset button on my PC. Check your hard disks with CrystalDiskInfo (use the portable version) for errors. What power supply do you have? Have you tested your PC's RAM with memtest, or if you're overclocking, with stress-testing tools like Prime95 or Intelburntest? Does the audio cut out or lock up when the screen goes black? You're sure it's not just the monitor going out? ALSO: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=5724-WAGJ-0918
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Nov 5, 2011 17:23
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A quickie here: My artic cooler for my video card has instructions telling me to use an eraser to scrub the vram and voltage regulator chips to clean them. Is there an alternative if I cannot locate one? Stuck at home on a sat night trying to find an eraser
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Nov 6, 2011 03:17
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High% rubbing alcohol + q-tip/cotton swab + compressed air to remove any trace moisture and cotton leavings when you're done. Weird choice to suggest an eraser. I mean, I can see why, but that's definitely not the usual route.
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Nov 6, 2011 03:24
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Yeah thought it was weird when I got mine too. Just used acetone and qtips/paper towels and canned air. Also if you have your own thermal goo, I recommend wiping the stuff off the GPU block that comes pre applied and using your own. Got better results doing so. Dogen fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 03:50
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My laptop died two years ago and I've had the hard drive sitting in a box, uneeded until today (have some old files on it that I need to transfer to my current laptop). I'm looking for a wire that will allow me to hook the hard drive up to my laptop by way of USB 2.0 or 3.0. Do wires such as this exist and, if so, could anyone kindly direct me to where I might purchase one? I'm not very good with hardware issues so I'm afraid of buying the incorrect wire. Some pictures of the hard drive:  
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Nov 6, 2011 03:55
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CoffeeBreak80 posted:My laptop died two years ago and I've had the hard drive sitting in a box, uneeded until today (have some old files on it that I need to transfer to my current laptop). I'm looking for a wire that will allow me to hook the hard drive up to my laptop by way of USB 2.0 or 3.0. Do wires such as this exist and, if so, could anyone kindly direct me to where I might purchase one? That weird connector is just an adapter that pulls right off  Looks like that's an IDE hard drive, so yank the adapter off and plug it into something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119152 FCKGW fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 03:59
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Agreed posted:Weird choice to suggest an eraser. I mean, I can see why, but that's definitely not the usual route. It's kinda weird that they'd suggest it though for the adhesive, but it's probably just to be 100% sure it'll adhere properly.
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Nov 6, 2011 04:31
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Hey there SH/SC, I'm currently looking to purchase a new video card for my gf's dad for Xmas because he just got Battlefield three but his old 4k series ATI card just won't cut it. Does this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130652 seem like a good deal that would be able to run Battlefield 3 efficiently? (By efficiently I mean actually able to run it at Low Settings because all he wants to do is play)
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Nov 6, 2011 05:02
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YouSpoonyBard posted:Hey there SH/SC, I'm currently looking to purchase a new video card for my gf's dad for Xmas because he just got Battlefield three but his old 4k series ATI card just won't cut it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908 I'd recommend a 6850 instead. This one is cheaper, even. Or if you want to go spendier and stay Nvidia, 560Ti.
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Nov 6, 2011 05:07
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Dogen posted:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908 Thank you so much! Yeah this looks really good 
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Nov 6, 2011 05:15
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Windows 7 core2duo e7200 2.53 4gb ram 9800gt 1gb It is time to get my poo poo together... this system ran things pretty well up until now but Battlefield 3 has shown me that it is no longer acceptable, so I'm replacing it piece by piece. I'm picking up a 5770 from a goon and want to use it as my main video card. Right now I have a dual monitor setup. Once I get the 5770 I would like to keep my normal setup but include a third monitor. Will this work? How should I go about installing the video card drivers? How should I use the video cards? I want to use one for my main screen, gaming and main web surfing, my secondary screen for other tasks and surfing on the side, and the third monitor for watching movies. Thanks in advance!
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Nov 6, 2011 05:15
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grumperfish posted:If you're using the thermal adhesive, your suggestions are fine. If you're using thermal tape for a card or on board mosfets you absolutely need to use an eraser (particularly on the VRMs) in combination with rubbing alcohol or the tape won't hold. Probably. There's nothing at all wrong with using an eraser to ensure great contact cleaning, it's just that most people don't even have erasers now, or at least that would be my guess. Though a good repair/modification shop would. I've had to use erasers to get smoker gunk off of contacts before, it's not bad, just for the application probably more than necessary and confusing to anyone who doesn't know why they suggest an eraser and what would work fine instead that's more common.
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Nov 6, 2011 05:45
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Red Robin Hood posted:Windows 7 If you have 2x PCI-E 16X slots on your board, just look for a cheap passive 5 or 6-series card on used forums or SA-Mart. PCI-E cards can also be used in PCI-E 4x or 8x slots, but they would need to be open-ended and there needs to be clearance for the card on the board with no capacitors, etc. in the way. You would run either the third or the second and third monitors off the secondary card. You would not run the two cards in crossfire mode. For the drivers, download the latest version from AMD/ATI and install. The 5 and 6-series cards will use the same generation of drivers, so there shouldn't be any conflicts. Within Windows you would go the the display section of the control panel and organize the screens in the order you need them. future ghost fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 06:08
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grumperfish posted:You'll need another card for a third monitor. 5770's support eyefinity as far as I'm aware, but the resolution might be asking alot out of the card. I've never tried eyefinity personally so this is just conjecture, but the 5770's not a super-powerful card and it has a 128-bit memory bus, so it might take a hit trying to run 3x monitors without knowing your resolution. Right, sorry I guess I didn't explain myself well enough. I would like to start using the 5770 as my main card just running the one monitor off of it and use my current 9800gt to run the other two monitors... since they are different brands altogether my question was mainly: will they both work in one system?
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Nov 6, 2011 06:16
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Red Robin Hood posted:Right, sorry I guess I didn't explain myself well enough. I would like to start using the 5770 as my main card just running the one monitor off of it and use my current 9800gt to run the other two monitors... since they are different brands altogether my question was mainly: will they both work in one system? Under Windows 7, yes, you can use both cards. Uninstall existing videocard drivers in control panel, then run driver sweeper with ATI/AMD graphics and Nvidia graphics settings toggled. Reboot. After this install the Nvidia drivers, reboot, then install the ATI/AMD drivers. Make sure that the 5770 is set as the primary monitor and that the 9800gt is handling the other two in control panel.
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Nov 6, 2011 06:22
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Agreed posted:Probably. There's nothing at all wrong with using an eraser to ensure great contact cleaning, it's just that most people don't even have erasers now, or at least that would be my guess. Though a good repair/modification shop would. I've had to use erasers to get smoker gunk off of contacts before, it's not bad, just for the application probably more than necessary and confusing to anyone who doesn't know why they suggest an eraser and what would work fine instead that's more common. Is there a specific kind of eraser you should use? Most of the erasers I have would probably leave some sort of gunk behind. Do you just mean a rubber eraser or what?
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Nov 6, 2011 06:32
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grumperfish posted:Under Windows 7, yes, you can use both cards. Uninstall existing videocard drivers in control panel, then run driver sweeper with ATI/AMD graphics and Nvidia graphics settings toggled. Reboot. After this install the Nvidia drivers, reboot, then install the ATI/AMD drivers. Thank you!
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Nov 6, 2011 06:39
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Agreed posted:High% rubbing alcohol + q-tip/cotton swab + compressed air to remove any trace moisture and cotton leavings when you're done. thanks for the suggestions, I may be screwed up though. The glue came in 2 packets that had to be mixed. The ram chips seems to be holding tight but the heat sinks on the voltage regulators do not appear to be sticking..... The cure time is 5 hours and the mixture has sat for 30 min so its not like I can reapply it again. If I wake up tommorow morning and find that its not sticking, what are my options here?
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Nov 6, 2011 06:42
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zachol posted:Is there a specific kind of eraser you should use? Most of the erasers I have would probably leave some sort of gunk behind. Do you just mean a rubber eraser or what? MikeC posted:thanks for the suggestions, I may be screwed up though. The glue came in 2 packets that had to be mixed. Just make sure it's set as well as can be and let it cure overnight for now. It might just take longer due the VRM's having less surface area.
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Nov 6, 2011 07:03
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The main thing is, how do you know it wasn't sticking after 30 minutes. You messed with it, didn't you. I think that's why they say leave it alone for 5 hours... the RAM bond is pretty easy, with the 2 large surface areas contacting each other. The VRM bond is delicate because you have on the chip side 4 smaller chips so less surface area, PLUS those sinks have the larger fins... so less surface area and more weight. Also, you can always order some more G1 and give it another go, but really the next time I do this I'm using thermal tape. My solution to this problem, wherein I knocked a VRM sink off reseating the HSF assembly, was to add some heat rated superglue (most superglue craps out at around 80c, so I didn't want to take the chance since I figure the VRM probably gets that hot at times). I strongly don't recommend doing this, but it's working for me so far. But hopefully, if you got it reseated and it's still kind of gooey... you might get lucky.
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Nov 6, 2011 15:09
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ya I did, mess with it. But thats becuase on the initial attempt to do it, it was basically slipping and sliding all over the place. Even removing my fingers are the applying pressure caused it to shift. It appears to be holding right now but I got another problem. I managed to install the the rest of the thing onto the card but now it boots with no video output at all. More accurately I think it is booting since there are no abnormal tones or beeps comming during boot up sequence and I hear my hard drive whriling and doing the regular sounds of booting up windows. Did I kill my card? Additional miscellaneous info. I didn't insert one of the power pins properly on the card the first time I put it back in and it caused a high pitch screaming sound upon initial boot. I scared the poo poo out of me but the internets say it was just a warning from the card saying it does't have enough power. Thats the only other thing I can think of that may have caused a problem.
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Nov 6, 2011 15:17
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That's what I was afraid of, but it didn't happen to me.. so... uh... I don't know what kind of card you have, but if it's dual dvi, try the other dvi port? Do you have any onboard LEDs on your motherboard that tell you if there's a problem with something? Not connecting one of the PEG power connectors shouldn't have killed your card, as the internet says.
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Nov 6, 2011 15:20
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2 dvi ports both tried no results. Its an ATI 5850. Everything seems to tell me its booting up properly except no video. So basically i hosed my card? edit and no the led light that comes on if the card is not inserted correctly is not on. edit: Bit of an update if it helps anyone generate a solution or firm answer. I know know for a fact windows boots up fine. If I turn it on for 5 min, leave it alone and depress the power button, the computer goes through its shut down cycle and powers down in about 30 seconds which is normal. Will a dead video card even allow a full bootup like this? MikeC fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 15:23
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FCKGW posted:That weird connector is just an adapter that pulls right off From a ways back up the page, but I just wanted to say, "Thank you, FCKGW!"
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Nov 6, 2011 16:33
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MikeC posted:2 dvi ports both tried no results. Its an ATI 5850. Everything seems to tell me its booting up properly except no video. I have some info to provide here (it's not good): This is not because of the power plug thing. That's OK. What will do this is if you connected the VRM heatsinks incorrectly. If you managed to connect the VRM heatsinks to a resistor, it would short out the card. The adhesive itself is NOT electrically conductive, so spillage wouldn't do this. This actually happened to me on a 4890 when I connected a VRM kit that wasn't sitting correctly, and yes, it booted to Windows (with no video). The area between the VRM's and nearby resistors is very small, so it's not hard to "cross the streams" as it were. There is a small VRM chip for the RAM to the left of the RAM chips (on Reference PCB cards). You did put a heatsink on that chip as well right? If there's no heatsink there it might be messing things up, but beyond that, try re-seating the card and resetting CMOS on your motherboard. If that doesn't work, reseat the VRM heatsinks completely with new adhesive if possible (VERY Carefully attempt to twist off the heatsinks). The bond shouldn't be super-strong, so they should be removable with some effort, but just take extreme care when attempting this. future ghost fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 17:22
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grumperfish posted:I have some info to provide here (it's not good): Thanks for the response, I do apreciate any help I can get. Assume I screwed up and shorted something. The damage is fatal? THis most likely the case since I have a single heatsink over the 3 VRMs to the right of the RAM chips. When I was doing the prep, it appeared that it would clear any transistors but i guess I was wrong here. I basically installed heatsinks on all parts covered by the stock heatsink supplied so its not like I didn't apply it to something. If this is simply a result of a shorted card, I might as well get a cheap replacement for it. Till I figure out when and how much to spend on a new system as I am not buying a new card for my Core 2 duo based system.
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Nov 6, 2011 17:34
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MikeC posted:Thanks for the response, I do apreciate any help I can get. Assume I screwed up and shorted something. The damage is fatal? THis most likely the case since I have a single heatsink over the 3 VRMs to the right of the RAM chips. When I was doing the prep, it appeared that it would clear any transistors but i guess I was wrong here. Try reseating the card and make sure the PCI-E power connector(s) are inserted fully. Make sure all VRM chips are covered with heatsinks (including the one to the left of the RAM chips if applicable). Reseat the VRM heatsinks to the right of the RAM chips if you have more adhesive. If that doesn't work, the card may be permanently cooked. On the plus side you didn't do what I did and completely fried a resistor to the point of sparks... did you know that they can explode?
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Nov 6, 2011 17:48
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Any updates on the supposed revised GTX 560 Ti that borrows components from the 570/580? I'm torn between a 560 Ti and 570, and if this revised card really exists I wouldn't mind going for it.
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Nov 6, 2011 17:54
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grumperfish posted:This doesn't really sound like a VRAM issue. I have a Corsair HX550W for my PSU. I tested my RAM with Memtest for up to like 120% and no errors and I'm not overclocking at all. I guess I'll try CrystalDiskInfo now. EDIT: Looks like there is something potentially wrong with my main HDD:  What does "Reallocated Sectors Count" mean? StickFigs fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 18:28
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Stickfigs posted:What does "Reallocated Sectors Count" mean? It's very likely still under warranty at least. The power supply is a good model so you should be alright. You might want to use HWiNFO64 and check 12V voltages under load while running OCCT's standard 1hour test. The 12V listing should be at or very close to 12V min/max when running the stress-test. 11.8 is too low which would indicate a (unlikely) issue with the power supply. A little bit above 12V is fine. future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 19:48
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grumperfish posted:It means the drive is failing and will need to be replaced. Actually the warranty ended just a few months ago.  I have access to an external HDD so if I wanted to back up my HDD before it dies what would be the best way to do that? I think some kind of method exists that just copies the disk image so I can put it on a different disk and it will be the same as before? I'd rather do it that way because my OS is on this disk and I don't want to have to reinstall everything and all that junk.
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Nov 6, 2011 23:38
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Clonezilla is pretty good at that sort of thing
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Nov 6, 2011 23:46
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StickFigs posted:I have access to an external HDD so if I wanted to back up my HDD before it dies what would be the best way to do that? I think some kind of method exists that just copies the disk image so I can put it on a different disk and it will be the same as before? I'd rather do it that way because my OS is on this disk and I don't want to have to reinstall everything and all that junk.
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Nov 7, 2011 02:19
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