|
Ideally, robes are in colors lighter so you can shade/wash them and make them look deeper. You do that and some edge highlighting and they can look really good. As for the armor, just do edge highlights. Paint the trim Chainmail, highlight with Mithril and shade with Badab Black wash.
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 03:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 21:15 |
|
|
postman posted:Looking for some advice on the best way to highlight black cloaks. Your best best would be painting the cloaks a very dark grey instead of black for the base coat. Then you can use black to shade the folds and use the normal greys to highlight the edges. As soon as you start highlighting pure black it can start to look bad, real fast from my experience.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 08:44
|
|
|
Had an absolute blast this weekend. Started on my first Vehicles, used an airbrush for the first time, and tried weathering powders.     So glad I got back into space barbies.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 09:30
|
|
|
Oxford Comma posted:Can Simple Green melt plastic 40K minis? No, only LotR minis because thats an inferior game. Not a viking fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Nov 6, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 12:31
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:Your best best would be painting the cloaks a very dark grey instead of black for the base coat. Then you can use black to shade the folds and use the normal greys to highlight the edges. As soon as you start highlighting pure black it can start to look bad, real fast from my experience. pretty much this, the best way to do blacks is not to actually paint black. To take it a little bit further, adding a bit of colour to make a very dark chromatic grey can also have some pretty nice effects (warm/cool blacks etc)
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 14:46
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Had an absolute blast this weekend. Looks very good!
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 14:47
|
|
|
Painted my Forgeworld Khorne Prince Conversion (count as Bloodthirster) yesterday. Hopefully the Blood God will be pleased.    I'll post up some Bloodcrushers or an Ultraforge Pleasure Daemon later today.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 15:02
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:Your best best would be painting the cloaks a very dark grey instead of black for the base coat. Then you can use black to shade the folds and use the normal greys to highlight the edges. As soon as you start highlighting pure black it can start to look bad, real fast from my experience. thanks everyone for the advice. Would basing with the battle grey be dark enough or should i try to mix some chaos black with the grey to darken it up further? Maybe a mix and then a heavy black ink wash in the folds with the lighter grey for the edges and creases?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 16:30
|
|
|
I finally got a camera I can use to take some pictures. I've been painting for a little under a month now. I'm happy enough with my painting, but I still want to get better. I tend to go a few days without painting, so sometimes quality can be different between models. Imperial Fist Pictures, ahoy! This dreadnought was actually painted twice. I stripped the paint off fantastically with Super Clean.    I tried painting over black primer with this one, it was a horrible idea.  My second vehicle. I'm not really happy with how I assembled it. I tried doing some light weathering. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 16:48
|
|
|
So with the release of the new necrons, I'm gonna repaint my old necron army and add some models. I've figured out how I'm going to do the bodies: It's super easy and looks fantastic in real life, but I'm still not quite sure how to do the guns. The grey on the immortal looks decent enough, I'd prefer something better but I can't think of anything else since I want to keep it dark and neutral.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 18:00
|
|
|
Just how super easy was that?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 18:17
|
|
|
Crazy easy, I think after a little practice I will be able to do a warrior with this scheme in ~1 hour each if I do them in batches.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 18:23
|
|
|
I tried to draw the gun and body together with the base by adding a little of the verdigris colour to it. I think it worked a little, I'm a little happier going forward with the grey gun.  These are pretty bad pictures sadly, I don't know how to photograph metallics. Which is too bad because I think the gold is one of the things I'm best at painting!
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 19:14
|
|
|
I love verdigris, and that is totally the scheme I would use if I was doing Necrons. Plus like you said, it's super easy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 19:50
|
|
|
postman posted:thanks everyone for the advice. I would probably mix 50/50 with black and battlegrey. I've done grey then washed it with Badab Black twice before though. I'm trying to remember where I did this but I can't for the life of me recall. It looked pretty okay though; I just had to water the wash down a little so it didn't pool up anywhere.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 20:13
|
|
|
Alokgen posted:Painted my Forgeworld Khorne Prince Conversion (count as Bloodthirster) yesterday. Looks awesome, love the wings. Alokgen posted:
Yeah battle grey will be too light, I would mix in black, try a 50:50 mix at first on a test mini. Black ink or watered down chaos black would be fine for the shading.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 20:15
|
|
|
TastyAvocado posted:Crazy easy, I think after a little practice I will be able to do a warrior with this scheme in ~1 hour each if I do them in batches. What did you do?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 20:30
|
|
|
For the gold: 1. start with tin bitz, then add like 3 layers building up to about 5:1 shining gold:tin bitz, you can be pretty sloppy here. Most of the model should have the lightest colour other than the recesses and stuff. 2. Throw on a wash over the whole model of about 50/50 devlan mud/leviathan purple. 3. Wash the inner 50%/bottom 50% again with devlan mud. 4. Wash the inner 25%/bottom 25% with leviathan purple, two or three times. (at this point you can see why it needs to be done in batches, waiting for the washes to dry is by far the most time consuming part) 5. Highlight the top 50% of the edges with about 2:1 shining gold tin bitz 6. Highlight the top 25% of the edges with shining gold (this is the only part that requires any care really) For the verdigris: 1. Use a little piece of that grey dark foam with hawk turqoise on in, pat it around, if too much gets somewhere I just rub it with my finger. 2. Use a stiff brush to stipple/paint around the areas where the hawk turqoise is with mixes of hawk turqoise/rotting flesh, about three mixes up to say 5:1 rotting flesh:hawk turqoise. It's a lot of steps but all of the steps are really easy, the only thing that takes any time at all is waiting for the washes to dry.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 20:52
|
|
|
Where would you put the verdigris to make it as realistic as possible? In the nooks or on the highlighted part of the model? I don't know where verdigris normally settles.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 22:22
|
|
|
Not a viking posted:I don't know where verdigris normally settles. Neither do I  Looking at pictures it should be more in the nooks, but it can be anywhere. I just put it wherever and I like how it looks. I doubt it's very realistic to have these patches of super rusted metal and the rest is totally clean but I don't really care. Looking at pictures of statues that are almost completely covered, I think the way I did it would be pretty realistic if I just covered like 70%+ of the model with it instead of the small amount I did.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 22:37
|
|
|
I think I have posted this before but here is how they do verdigris on the skaven doomwheel: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5 I did it on mine and was pretty pleased with the results.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 22:47
|
|
|
TastyAvocado posted:Neither do I Fast and easy verdigris by Les. http://www.youtube.com/awesomepaintjob#p/u/45/i6OSyAT7-Ys
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 22:51
|
|
|
My verdigris: 50/50 snakebite leather/dwarf bronze. 5:1 water:hawk turquoise wash over
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 02:04
|
|
|
Reaper scorched metal, vallejo verdegris glaze + a drop of P3 turquoise ink, highlight with a bronze, and you get something that looks like the metal here:
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 02:39
|
|
|
Painted the Pleasure Demon tonight. Looks great in person, but noticed I need to make some tweaks / tidy up a bit after looking at this photos. I was trying to mix dirty and clean. Her more humanistic parts are very clean and smooth and her deformations are dirty and rough. The theme itself works, but not sure about the execution. It may be too drastic. I know for sure I want to rework the claw, but not sure about the wings.      I'm going to mark her off my list for being done, though. Bloodcrushers or Nurgle Prince tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 07:22
|
|
|
I really should finish that model for my Emperors Children 
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 08:45
|
|
|
I've run into an annoying problem. I gave a couple of figures a coat of gloss varnish, waited it to dry, then gave them a matte coat. But the miniatures remain very glossy, which is weird since the other figures I've done this to have turned pleasingly matte. Any ideas what might have caused this? I'm going to give them another coat of matte, but it just seems a bit odd.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 12:37
|
|
|
RAWR! It's more orangey in real life. I need to figure out how to take good photos.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 13:00
|
|
|
AgentF posted:RAWR! Hot and smokin'. I'm not sure about the black bits of flesh though. I will reserve until it's complete though. I want to do this to an Avatar. Could you give me a tutorial please? (The burning flesh)
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 13:20
|
|
|
The black bits look too flat and angular to be flesh, so I take them to be pieces of construct embedded in him. I could paint them metal to match the other mechanical parts, but I figure they might look good as chunks of obsidian or something. The way I did this was a simple drybrushing approach. Undercoated with Sunburst Yellow, then heavy drybrush with half yellow-half Macharius Solar Orange. Then medium drybrush with orange. Then lighter drybrush with half orange-half Blood Red. Then selected areas are drybrushed with with red, then with Codex Grey, then with half grey-half black. There are probably more complex ways to get better looking fire/lava effects, but this is how I got the above effect. AgentF fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Nov 7, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 13:29
|
|
|
Alokgen posted:Painted the Pleasure Demon tonight. Looks great in person, but noticed I need to make some tweaks / tidy up a bit after looking at this photos. What model is that?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 14:41
|
|
|
Well, that sure is a model!
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 15:03
|
|
|
Baruch Obamawitz posted:What model is that? It's Ultraforge's Pleasure Demon. You can get it at The Warstore.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 15:45
|
|
|
stabbington posted:Reaper scorched metal, vallejo verdegris glaze + a drop of P3 turquoise ink, highlight with a bronze, and you get something that looks like the metal here: This is a really awesome looking model, verdegris or no verdegris, so I hope you won't take it bad when I say that this is exactly what I did not need to see as I begin painting my Gorax. I mean, drat.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 16:55
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:I've run into an annoying problem. I gave a couple of figures a coat of gloss varnish, waited it to dry, then gave them a matte coat. But the miniatures remain very glossy, which is weird since the other figures I've done this to have turned pleasingly matte. Any ideas what might have caused this? I'm going to give them another coat of matte, but it just seems a bit odd. Just give them another coat or two of matte. That's all there is to it. You might have just sprayed too little or your can is running out. I usually need to do 2-3 light coats of matte to dull down the gloss.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 18:58
|
|
|
SRM posted:Just give them another coat or two of matte. That's all there is to it. You might have just sprayed too little or your can is running out. I usually need to do 2-3 light coats of matte to dull down the gloss. It's not spray, it's brush on, but thanks. Was a bit puzzled since I didn't have this problem last time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 19:00
|
|
|
I am thinking of giving oil paints a try for miniature painting. Winsor and Newton has put out a new set which is water soluble, which is strange when you think about it, but still hold the properties of oil paints. It sounds like a better option than traditional oil paint, because it removed the need for turps or white spirit to thin the paint. This should give me a long time to work with wet blending and other methods. I like how oils turn out as well, and at $30 for six paints, it's good value, considering you wouldn't use much as it's all concentrated which can then be watered down to make "juices", as it were. In addition, they have both paints and hues, the hues being more transparent. This sounds even better, as you can work a thin layer over the base. Going to have a look into it. Massive Voodoo has a great write up about this, as well as using oils as washes. Anyone else given them a try? Another idea is to use fluorescent pigments with a medium binding agent to give a paint that has more "pop". There is a really great Demon Prince which shows this off really well for the flames and whatnot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 19:08
|
|
|
The Dark Project posted:I am thinking of giving oil paints a try for miniature painting. Winsor and Newton has put out a new set which is water soluble, which is strange when you think about it, but still hold the properties of oil paints. It sounds like a better option than traditional oil paint, because it removed the need for turps or white spirit to thin the paint. Those oils sound pretty interesting. I assume these are the ones? Drying times might be a bit far the other way in terms of length though. Also I love that demon prince.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:28
|
|
|
Posted this guy WIP a while back and he's all finished now!  Happy with how he turned out as the test model for my scheme. Still not sure if I love or hate the basing yet though. Tried to stay red desert-ey without going standard bright yellowy brown desert in order to put some contrast in. Turned out a little more orange in the photo maybe just because of the good lighting, but looking at it now I do like it better. Any thoughts? He's also got a couple coats of Krylon Matte but he still looks pretty shiny. Will Testor's Dullcote give me a better matte?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 21:15 |
|
|
 Paging Fyrbrand, Fyrbrand to the painting threadI'm going to be painting some Trollbloods. I saw your rad tips for painting the metals, but how do you paint your Trollblood skin and cloth?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:55
|
|