|
Changed my oil and put a quick drain valve on there for next time. Nothing fun
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 03:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 16:04 |
|
|
Moved the VW and put it on the charger. Aimlessly poked at the wiring. Did a bit more work on removing the mower holder thing from the front of the trailer. Gave up the day before yesterday after getting burnt all over by flying metal. Today no grinding. I realised that I should just be able to snap the front off because all that is holding it is the crumbled remains of the crossmember which I need to remove the mower bit to get to. Seems to be working so far but my son is having a nap so SShhhh...
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 05:39
|
|
|
150K service, so timing belt, oil change etc etc. Didnt do the injector pipes, because thats $600 I didnt have!
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 07:13
|
|
|
Went over to Pleads place and we put the winter tires on my car and on Braki's; ran out of daylight and time to put them on his. I found out that lifting the front from either side also lifts that side's rear tire off the ground, which is a little unexpected but I guess is a symptom of the very rigid chassis on my e36.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 08:35
|
|
|
 Proved to the state that I'm not belching clouds of noxious fumes from the exhaust. And as you can see from the reflection, tried Del Taco...  seriously who the gently caress gives you FRIES with tacos?!Kotaru posted:Took my car down the Twisted Sisters in Kerrville Texas for the first time. Kept up with the supercharged MRS in our group. I need a bigger engine and better brakes now. Goddamn I'm jealous, Kerrville is loving beautiful this time of year (anytime of year, really). Some absolutely gorgeous roads around Hunt too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 08:36
|
|
|
Bought a LS2 rotating assembly for my car.  My car is a 240SX with a SR20.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2011 16:44
|
|
|
I'm not your typical DSMer. I let my OCD get ahold of me, and I went from repainting the engine bay to stripping the entire car and redoing everything from the ground up. Literally. Right now (see: today) I'm stripping the fenderwells of their undercoating. I've already started sandblasting and priming the undercarriage. From today:  Older: Stitch welded engine bay:  Undercarriage sandblasting:  Primer:  Before picture: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 02:28
|
|
|
E: Hmmm... nevermind.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Nov 7, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 10:46
|
|
|
_adam posted:I'm not your typical DSMer. I let my OCD get ahold of me, and I went from repainting the engine bay to stripping the entire car and redoing everything from the ground up. Literally. I only have OCD when it comes to scabs, and sandblasting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 11:21
|
|
|
I finally got the seized alternator out of the Jeep. What should've been a 30 minute job turned into hours due to every single nut disintegrating into a pyramid of rust upon contact with a socket.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 17:10
|
|
|
Finally, it's done.  Changed the timing belt on the ITR. The old one was hardened and had a glazed appearance to it. It had 13 years and 67,000 miles on it. So glad it's changed out now. The work went really smoothly, but I managed to disconnect my crankshaft position sensor and thus tripped a CEL. Then I got to tear it back down and fix it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:04
|
|
|
Might wanna photoshop out the reflected light on your camshaft journals. Thieves are reconstructing a model of your garage from that as we speak.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:57
|
|
|
I hope you paid cash at the dealership too and wore a disguise. Looking forward to doing my first t-belt in a few weeks, but thankfully it's SOHC 
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2011 23:58
|
|
|
Replaced the two front brake calipers on my Subaru and the driver's side CV axle. Next up is a front engine reseal and timing belt/tensioner(s) replacement, as the timing belts got oiled by a leaky seal.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2011 02:00
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I hope you paid cash at the dealership too and wore a disguise. Ordered my parts online (my dealerships are ridiculous). Curiously, now that I've done this job on the ITR I've come to realize it was considerably easier than the SOHC f22 Accords I've done in the past. Your results may vary, but I'd do another DOHC B-series in a heartbeat. It was a nice, straightforward, relaxing job. Anyway, back to ridiculous parts cost, I found my lower driver's side motor mount was shot. I called the dealer and they quoted me $250! It's a stupid piece of rubber, nothing fancy like a hydraulic mount or anything. The zone covered me for $25. As much as I hate putting durocrap on the ITR, I wasn't about to pay $250.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2011 02:39
|
|
|
New rotors, pads, and a caliper for my front brakes. I kinda had to because this happened. http://imgur.com/ZxAbJ http://imgur.com/DjM6w My sister took the car to school with her for a few weeks, when she came home she mentioned a grinding that had been going on for a little while. Imagine my surprise when the rotor looked more like a vinyl record than something that belongs on a car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 00:25
|
|
|
Eliptical posted:My sister took the car to school with her for a few weeks, when she came home she mentioned a grinding that had been going on for a little while. Imagine my surprise when the rotor looked more like a vinyl record than something that belongs on a car. That's not the problem, it's that the piston was the loving needle. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 02:10
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:That's not the problem, it's that the piston was the loving needle. seriously, seeing that gave me some serious spine shivers
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 02:41
|
|
|
As a final hurrah something decided start to rattle and then fly off of the car on the way to my friend's garage. Did I mention the smoke? There was smoke.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 03:13
|
|
|
Changed to winter wheels/tires... and found out i have a torn CV boot.. Fack.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 03:30
|
|
|
Eliptical posted:New rotors, pads, and a caliper for my front brakes. I kinda had to because this happened. Get thee to the horrible mechanical failures thread with those pics, now! Your sister sounds like the reason insurance premiums are so high... "Can't stop I hasn't breaks but that noise is gone finally!"
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 06:35
|
|
|
On Friday, three of my four winter wheels were delivered.  On Monday, the fourth was delivered, and upon opening them all up and inspecting them, they sent me 3 of the correct 5x108 lug pattern, and one 4-lug.  Now the derped wheel is in transit back to the seller and I'll hopefully be getting the correct one this week. Couple weeks less wear on the studded tires, though! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 11:49
|
|
|
Not a car, but I finally understand old points/condenser ignition now. It's seriously been eluding me for the past two years working as a service writer. Shop had a Stihl 032 come in that was breaking up under load. The lead tech, been working on chain saws for at least 30 years, replaced the points (burned) and "tested" the condenser. He ran it for about five minutes and it cut great, then started breaking up again. Tech had an old beat to poo poo Fluke DMM and pronounced the condenser good because it "ohmed open". Having an electronics background, I explained capacitors and Farads a bit. Got my DMM while on lunch and googled up a site by a guy who loves is 031/2s WAAAAY too much, tested out the new condenser and found it to have about 3nF capacitance when it should have had 200. So what had been eluding me, that the condenser and the coil, capacitor and inductor, and the air gap resistance at the spark plug, set up a tuned circuit. The spark is bouncing back and forth at high frequency for the thousandth of a second the points are open. If the coil or condenser are off, the tuning is off and the spark arcs more at the breaker points instead.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 18:54
|
|
|
trouser chili posted:Finally, it's done. that an integra? Those are a total pain in the rear end to change the timing belts on. edit: nevermind I just saw ITR. I noticed that my oil pressure gauge goes loving haywire when it's cold out. Problem goes away after the truck moves a bit, but the problem is a bit concerning. I'm wondering if I should even bother putting effort into figuring this one out. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Nov 9, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 20:11
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:that an integra? Those are a total pain in the rear end to change the timing belts on. Real oil pressure gauges bounce all over the loving place, from what looks like unsafe low levels when idling (this is normal), to sometimes crazy high levels when revving (this is also normal). Cars have dumb oil pressure switches instead of actual variable sensors nowadays because of what you're describing, along with the associated freakout that inevitably happens afterward. Unless your gauge is actually going haywire, like it's shorting out or something when cold. Then that's an issue. But if it's just bouncing all over the place, and eventually smooths out once the engine warms up, I wouldn't worry.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 20:27
|
|
|
Took advantage of this beautiful day, installing a new alternator and getting the Jeep up and running on my lunch break. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2011 22:39
|
|
|
Not today, but a few days ago I installed new headlight bulbs(Sylvania Xtravision) in my Mazda 3, and holy gently caress those retaining clips are a bitch. I'd almost prefer to remove the entire housing as I did with my Grand Am, because then at least I can see what in the hell I'm doing. Also, I really shouldn't even tell anybody this, but I thought I'd bought the wrong sized bulbs, as they were much too short to fit, but apparently some H7 bulbs have an adapter/extender piece that I was completely unaware of.  Not a single one of the walkthroughs I read online said anything about this.In the next few days I'll be installing AuxMod so I don't have to listen to the radio anymore. I'm quite relieved to find that the 3's stereo is really easily removed. The G6 required me to take apart half the dash to get the thing out, so really this is quite a step up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2011 18:38
|
|
|
Replaced the stupid Mercedes upright springer hood ornament on the 55 with something more to my taste and less old-man-ish. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2011 23:05
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Real oil pressure gauges bounce all over the loving place, from what looks like unsafe low levels when idling (this is normal), to sometimes crazy high levels when revving (this is also normal). No it's no signal then WHAM! FULL PRESSURE! then dead again. does this a number of times, usually when I hit the gas. Then I move and about 1/8 mile later it works fine for the rest of the day till the truck sits over night. It's probably a short or something that's going to be a complete pain in the rear end to find. So I'm leaving it alone for now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2011 23:36
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:No it's no signal then WHAM! FULL PRESSURE! then dead again. does this a number of times, usually when I hit the gas. What kind of truck is it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 00:27
|
|
|
wallaka posted:What kind of truck is it? 2000 ford ranger. 2.5L lima motor w/ 5 speed (M5OD) 130,000ish on the clock. All regular maintenance done on time (including timing belt.) It did the same poo poo last year but only when temperatures were around 20-30ºF I've run mobil 1 synthetic since 28K miles and changed religiously every 3000 miles until this year when I read it should probably run to 5000+miles between changes on synthetic. Last 2 changes have been at 5000 on the dot and the oil still comes out looking like dark honey. As much as I beat it up and rag on it I really love that little tractor. I secretly wish I had the resources to turn it into a turbo pre-runner truck. Rotated the tires on her today and noticed the front camber bolt wasn't quite right. I fixed that, checked the other and accidentally only bought ONE camber bolt kit from NAPA. I'll wait till I flush the transmission and coolant (it's runnin H20 and 50/50 now) to swap those out. Front left tire has a bit of odd wear on the edge but it's goin on the back anyway, so no worries. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Nov 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:24
|
|
|
It's just partially disconnected somewhere along the line from sensor->ecu->gauge. Or, if you're lucky, straight from sensor->gauge, but I wouldn't think so on a 2000.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:27
|
|
|
wallaka posted:Replaced the stupid Mercedes upright springer hood ornament on the 55 with something more to my taste and less old-man-ish. E: Geirskogul posted:It's not a broken camshaft, it's a valve and a cam. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Nov 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:30
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:It's just partially disconnected somewhere along the line from sensor->ecu->gauge. Or, if you're lucky, straight from sensor->gauge, but I wouldn't think so on a 2000. Just checked the EVTM; it looks like it's a single wire that runs from instrument cluster to the pressure switch. YAY! Unfortunately I know it's not the connection to the gauge cluster that's the problem. That thing comes out pretty regularly (a few times a year) and gets compulsively checked every time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:35
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:To me, that looks way more old-man-ish. Do the flying tree or broken camshaft mean anything? It's an early AMG (Mercedes in-house tuning company) logo, after they moved to Affalterbach. http://www.cartype.com/pages/80/mercedes-benz_amg It's not a broken camshaft, it's a valve and a cam. Dunno about the tree, though. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Just checked the EVTM; it looks like it's a single wire that runs from instrument cluster to the pressure switch. YAY! Sometimes it's just easier to run a brand new wire from the gauge cluster connector to the switch itself. Pretty easy if you can identify which pin/pad it is on the cluster connector, and if you've ever run a separate line through the firewall before, like all of you should have for the +12v line for your aftermarket stereo and amplifier installations  (my dad is a very anal electrical engineer, and taught me well) Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Nov 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:36
|
|
|
Finally got the bad section of brake line replaced on the truck. It wasnt all that bad of a job except I did it in gravel driveway with no cardbord to lay on... The new line wouldnt seat with the old unions so i had to take it all apart and replace the unions. Then rounded off the bleeder valve on the driver side rear, PB blaster and vice grips couldnt bust it loose so I just left it for now, I got all the air out of the line when bleeding the passenger side. Brakes feel so much better now. Then backing out of my driveway for the 4 billionth time I went 5 inches to far and backed right into a tree....... Now my rusting bumper has a nice dent in it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 06:47
|
|
|
evilnissan posted:Then rounded off the bleeder valve on the driver side rear, PB blaster and vice grips couldnt bust it loose Perfect excuse to get speed bleeders.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 07:17
|
|
|
wallaka posted:Replaced the stupid Mercedes upright springer hood ornament on the 55 with something more to my taste and less old-man-ish. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 15:50
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Just checked the EVTM; it looks like it's a single wire that runs from instrument cluster to the pressure switch. YAY! Hmm. Fords used to be bad about the instrument cluster voltage regulator going bad, but I think this is too new of a vintage for that. Dang.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 16:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 16:04 |
|
|
rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:I'd been wondering where that smilie went. Besides, wouldn't it be :kraut: for German cars? Maybe  ?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2011 16:06
|
|