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Have to replace my turbo. Goddammit. 107k mi, that seems about normal. Hasn't failed (still makes boost), but making some noise. Not risking it and will be getting it towed.
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Nov 7, 2011 05:45
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:
Where's that from?
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Nov 7, 2011 10:52
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CharlesM posted:Where's that from? Concept car to be unveiled at Tokyo Motor show I believe.
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Nov 7, 2011 11:13
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Is that from Subaru or just an "artist's rendition" from a magazine?
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Nov 7, 2011 11:58
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It looks like an Audi, which isn't a bad thing really. DI would be excellent..
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Nov 7, 2011 14:13
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I want a small coupe damnit. Not another four door behemoth.
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Nov 7, 2011 14:56
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I had a weird thing happen yesterday. Anyone got any ideas? Equipment: Cobb accessport flat foot shifting feature I was cruising at fairly low speed and decided to test the flat-foot shift. I had the rev set around 5500. I floored the gas and shifted from second to third. The RPM's held where they should have, but the stick got all weird on me. I couldn't pull it out of third as it was giving a lot of resistance. I immediately pulled over to see what was going on. While the motor was running I couldn't get it out of gear. I turned the motor off, and I could shift to neutral. I started the car again and could not get it in gear. With the car back off, I COULD get it in gear. I ended up resolving the issue by putting it in first with the car off, and started the motor with the clutch pressed in. The car jumped forward a little like I had started the car with it in first gear with no clutch, then the symptoms went away altogether. What the hell did I do? I haven't been able to replicate the issue, but am disinclined to use the stupid flat foot shift again.
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Nov 7, 2011 15:46
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Yeah dude, stop using that. It's not difficult to shift properly.
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Nov 7, 2011 16:12
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Blaise posted:Yeah dude, stop using that. It's not difficult to shift properly. It was more curiosity. I do like the launch control given the right set of circumstances, but yea, flat-foot seems kinda counterproductive. I'm just trying to understand what that little panic attack the trans had was all about.
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Nov 7, 2011 16:26
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Nov 7, 2011 16:26
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Flu Roo posted:I'm just trying to understand what that little panic attack the trans had was all about. The panic attack the trans had was its way of saying "my RPMs should have dropped to ~4000-4500, and yet they were held at 5500." Which shouldn't be the end of the world, but I'm guessing you probably actuated the clutch as quickly as possible (rather than slipping it a bit) between gears, and shocked the driveline really badly. Did you hear a loud bang when you shifted? If so, that was likely your rear diff?(I believe, if there's someone who knows better please correct) jumping around and weeping in pain. I would personally change my trans oil right away and look for metal if I ever had the gearbox get stuck after some serious abuse like that. My advice: don't use flat foot shifting, just get better at shifting fast. It's not hard to get quick at gear changes on this car (I can do a 300 ms shift on a good day, and I'm sure there are people who can do it quite a bit faster than that). It takes practice, but it's way kinder to your driveline to slowly learn to speed up your shifts than to take a shortcut like that. If you do want to use it (be ready to replace expensive parts - remember that your transmission costs almost twice what your motor costs), I think it would be best to learn how to best take advantage of it from someone who actually uses it productively at the drag strip. See what settings they use, and if they're inclined, watch how they shift with ffs enabled. That's how I'd do it at least BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 17:27
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What in the tranny could be holding things in place and not releasing the selector gear from the synchros?
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Nov 7, 2011 17:37
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c355n4 posted:I want a small coupe damnit. Not another four door behemoth. Then you get the BRZ or the upcoming smaller non-Impreza WRX. (Although if they don't stick with a hatchback on the WRX I will throw something.)
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Nov 7, 2011 18:06
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sounds more like a problem with the clutch than the transmission. and the point of FFS is to drop the revs to an appropriate shift point without taking your foot off the gas. so you hit 7000rpm, push in the clutch, and the revs automatically drop to 5500 or whatever it's set to.
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Nov 7, 2011 19:03
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That's the weird thing. The RPM's weren't that high, set conservatively at 5500. I have no interest in flat foot shifting, was just messing with it. There was no impact or perceivable bang or other sign of stress when it happened. It just kinda stuck. Without being a mechanic, the previous post about the synchros not letting go sounds most feasible.
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Nov 7, 2011 19:28
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Flu Roo posted:That's the weird thing. The RPM's weren't that high, set conservatively at 5500. I have no interest in flat foot shifting, was just messing with it. That's weird - no bang says to me not much stress at all, so your left foot was doing what it should have it sounds like. I know I've had issues where it seems like the clutch doesn't disengage properly before (foot flat to the floor with it, gonig slow around town, and I suddenly get a grind. I've only had it happen once or twice going into gears other than 1st, though). I'd be curious to hear what a mechanic says about it - it doesn't make any sense to me that the clutch would spontaneously decide to stop working properly. I'd be right with Jamal in thinking it was something clutch-related, but the fact that you could stop normally (without serious bucking as though you were stalling out in third) says to me that the clutch was disengaging just fine when you pulled over. Why it would be suddenly semi-engaged when you re-started the car is really weird. Did you recently have the trans oil changed? A short period after trans oil changes is, for me, the only time where I've had weird issues with getting into gears other than 1st. Out of curiosity, where did you shift when you were trying FFS out? At 7000 like Jamal said, or lower than that? That could possibly be a source of stress on the trans, if FFS set engine speed to 5500 when the transmission speed asked for something more like 4500 or 4000.
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Nov 7, 2011 19:59
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Flu Roo posted:I had a weird thing happen yesterday. Anyone got any ideas? Flat change IS NOT FOR SYNCROMESH CARS EVER Flat change is for a gearbox that is specifically designed for it and it has a much different engagement mechanism - look up dog boxes. The panic attack is your synchros jamming and drat near breaking and a gear as a result not properly homed. A double synchro car can not be flat changed without the real chance of very expensive pieces breaking, it is simply not designed to expect that and you are in fact countering the synchro action. A dog box is and depends on a forceful flat shift to smack the dogs home. Synchros need time to do their work, which a flat change denies, dog boxes depend on speed and force which is granted by a flat change. So do not under any circumstances do the flat shift in a synchro equipped car again unless you want a new gearbox.
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Nov 7, 2011 20:55
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You keep your foot down, but the flat foot shift option on the accessport automatically lifts for you. still not good for a syncro box though.
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Nov 7, 2011 20:58
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Yeah, it's not a flat shift - you use the clutch pedal as normal but the ECU cuts the throttle while it's depressed to prevent bouncing into the redline and blowing the engine while you have the gas pedal floored. I believe the upside is limited to the fact that you can maintain boost between gears because the throttle plate is not completely closed. Not great for the drivetrain but it's factory equipment in some cars (Cobalt SS, HHR SS, probably others) now.
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Nov 7, 2011 21:18
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, it's not a flat shift - you use the clutch pedal as normal but the ECU cuts the throttle while it's depressed to prevent bouncing into the redline and blowing the engine while you have the gas pedal floored. That's exactly what flat shift is - wether or not you use the clutch, as long as you keep your foot on the gas, that's flat shift. Not using a clutch is optional. The problem with it is that flat shift depends on speed and force to work - that's why flat shift works so well on 5ms gearchange on WRC gearboxes. Synchros need time to resync and forcing sync is a truly bad idea. Flat shifting also works on a crash box as long as your timing is right - again you need speed and commitment to the gearchange to force the fucker home, the faster you move the gears, the more likely to gain a remesh in the next gear before the gears fall out of sync. Both dog box and crash box do work best without the clutch Synchros can be quick but they all need time and they are not designed for a flat shift AND they work best unforced. They do need to have power cut during the entire change, not just breifly. PLus the gearsets are just not built for the sudden changes in loads flat shift can do. That's not to say all synchros are like that, in fact older non double row synchros you find in older gearboxes (which many here probably have never used) or better, same car with worn out synchros do allow for the conditions that make flat shift or clutchless change quite acceptible. But never in a modern Subaru gearbox. It's a waste of time and gets expensive.
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Nov 7, 2011 23:26
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Cat Terrist posted:That's exactly what flat shift is - wether or not you use the clutch, as long as you keep your foot on the gas, that's flat shift. Not using a clutch is optional. I think a flat shift is one where the engine and output shaft RPMs are still rising fast (because your foot is oo the floor) as you try to mate the selector gear into the synchros. A no-lift shift is one where you can pin the gas but the ECU will still let the engine RPMs fall to an approriate RPM and hold for you by the time you get the selector gear into the synchros. This latter shift shouldn't be any worse on the car than a well-timed human shift. e: Timing or mechanically, it doesn't strike me as much different from the automated rev-matching downshifts in the 370Z, which no one has reported oddities with. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 23:50
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Thoughts on this up pipe? http://www.amazon.com/Invidia-Subaru-WRX-STI-up-pipe/dp/B004XWL76M I am likely to be trading a 3 port boost solenoid for it.
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Nov 8, 2011 00:57
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Lord Gaga posted:Thoughts on this up pipe? That's a pretty damned good trade, I think, as long as it hasn't been heat wrapped for years or something.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:24
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pretty decent- I like the downpipes they make. You do run a slight risk of having the upper flange separate from the piping after a couple years, and if the car already has a catless up-pipe I wouldn't bother.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:24
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It is an 02 so it has a catted up pipe.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:31
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Just want to make sure this doesn't get lost on the last pageAmandyke posted:Stupid question for you guys. I've got 225/50/16 tires on my stock 03 rims right now. Is there any compelling reason to keep that size over the stock 205/55/16? Reason I ask is that the 225's bow out a bit from the rim to the tread since they should really be on a 7" wide rim instead of the 6.5" they're on now. My thought is that it's affecting my turn in a bit, and the tires are more expensive.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:59
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people don't seem to report any problems. Which I haven't had any either, it's just that my echo's turn in is much better than the wrx's. Suppose that might be due more in part to alignment than anything else... Gotta get that done one of these days...
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Turn in on my 06 improved substantially when I went to 225 width tires, though I was on 7" wide wheels instead of 6.5". It is difficult to overstate the effect alignment has on these cars, so get that done first, ideally with whatever caster mods you can throw on in the meantime. Tire-wise, I liked my RS3s but any of those three would probably be fine (and I believe for this past year the RS3s have only been in a handful of "popular" sizes that don't necessarily include 205/16). The V12s seem expensive for the amount of wear they were taking from autocross weekends. edit: The V12s were mounted on a GH with additional suspension options, so take from that what you will. edit 2: Be cognizant also of your tire pressure balance. If your car is anything like mine the stock tire pressures need to be tweaked to provide better response. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 04:04
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dunlops are the stickiest of the three. I have the hankooks which are the cheapest and they work pretty good, and I don't know much about the contis, but from what I hear they're not up to the level of the stickiest street tires. And yeah 225 is a bit of a stretch on the 6.5s.
jamal fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 04:05
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What would cause my 2002 MT5 to feel notchy the hotter the transmission gets? When it's dead cold (0 degrees Celsius even), the fluid feels thick but it goes into gear very smooth. When it starts warming up, every shift is nice and smooth, but when it's hot, the shifts, especially 2nd and 3rd are pretty notchy. I just replaced the fluid with Uncle Scotty's cocktail (Quart redline shockproof, 2 quarts Castrol Hypoy C and top it off with Penzzoil Synchromesh) to the correct level. Could this be my clutch needing adjustment or bleeding? Or linkage? Or just worn transmission? Usually I thought mantrans get better as they warm up, and in my experience they grind/notch more when cold. This is the opposite. Any opinions? Its not awful, just annoying.
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Nov 8, 2011 05:04
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Amandyke posted:Just want to make sure this doesn't get lost on the last page The hankooks (215/45/17 on 17x7) are pretty drat good except that they're maybe a bit noisy and wear out quicker than I'd want. I'm at 4/32nds at may be 20k mi. For daily summers, I think I'm going back to the Sumitomo HTR ZIIIs. I think the kooks have a bit more grip and better wet performance, but the Sumitomos got to 4/32 well after 30k mi. The sumitomos flat-spot much more. The dunlops are ok, but for a heavier car like an LGT, the sidewall is a bit soft. They get grippy fast and perform in every way better than the kooks, though the difference won't really be noticeable on the street. They don't last long at all. I got like 8k on em when I daily drove them. I still preferred the RE-01Rs simply based on sidewall, but the RE-11s are just too much money. Note that my Dunlops are currently on 13 lb SSRs and the Hankooks are on 20 something lb OEM wheels, however, I have driven the dunlops on the OEM wheels, and I think I can account for the weight.. Basically for daily driving I'd go: Sumitomo>Hankook>Dunlop If cost is no object I've heard the RE-11s are amazing For track: Dunlop>Hankook>Sumitomo Don't know anything about the contis. I've never been a fan of them, not much bang for the buck and if i'm paying $200/tire, I'm buying bridgestones or maybe yokos. As for the size, I think 225/45/17 is too big on 17x7s. Mushy sidewall to the max. Even 7.5 is cutting it close (but subaru fit old-style SSR comps are rare so beggars can't be choosers). I'd go with something more OEM sized. Note that because the wheel is so narrow that i don't think a 225 v. a 205 will make any notable difference in contact patch. nm posted:Have to replace my turbo. Goddammit. nm fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 05:36
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nm posted:Funny, the dunlops (225/45/17 on 17x7.5) are my track/ax tire and the kooks are my daily tire. Sadly Sumitomo doesn't make the HTR ZIII in anything 16". The good news though is that basically all 3 of those tires I did list are in the $100-$115 range. So essentially the same price. The Conti's have the highest tread rating (which obviously would mean the least sticky, or at least longer lasting) and have reviewed very well at tirerack. Really all of the tires have reviewed well. I guess I'm still somewhat torn about getting a summer tire even though I never really go to the snow. I want to go to the snow at least to whip around in those fantastic AWD flat spins in an ice/snow covered parking lot. At the same time if I ever actually went to the snow, it'd be with my buddy in his ram 1500... I have my echo for doing foolish things at auto-x (on of these days) with aside from it being hilarious in the corners. Suppose my subi doesn't really do much in the way of hard cornering. Might be because I'm not 100% on it's alignment. Either way I've already had 3 of the 4 tires I currently have on the subaru patched for nails/screws. And one of them likes to leak air at about 7 psi a month. Tread's getting low on them anyway, rubber is start to show some minor cracks from being on the car for 3+ years etc etc. No idea why I'm agonizing over this so much. Perhaps it's because if I put 205's on it, then it'll have the same width tires as I have on my echo... Just seems like it should have wider tires.
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Nov 8, 2011 08:33
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Brand new in the box STI shortblock with added nitrided crank at 400 dollars below ANYTHING else I could find = sold. Screw it, get the bitch back on the road, I'll have a spare engine to go crazy with - despite OEM fetish I do wonder what 300Kw of Subaru ATW would be like and what it would do in my hands. Suppose we find out.....?
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Nov 8, 2011 11:47
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nm posted:
I would still budget a new turbo soon. Was yours checked when you rebuilt? I don't recall it being mentioned, but you are getting close either way.
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Nov 8, 2011 12:51
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Cat Terrist posted:Screw it, get the bitch back on the road, I'll have a spare engine to go crazy with - despite OEM fetish I do wonder what 300Kw of Subaru ATW would be like and what it would do in my hands. Suppose we find out.....? 
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Nov 8, 2011 15:41
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ssjonizuka posted:I would still budget a new turbo soon. Was yours checked when you rebuilt? I don't recall it being mentioned, but you are getting close either way. Yeah, I expect it soon. But because of job change I don't get a paycheck until dec 28. Now is not the time.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:34
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MrZig posted:What would cause my 2002 MT5 to feel notchy the hotter the transmission gets? Ok I'm 99% sure it's because the clutch is dragging. If I disengage the clutch when hot, and shift into first at a complete stop, then with the clutch still disengaged, keep taking it out of first and back into first, it's notchy/messy every single time. If I pump the clutch in neutral and then slide it into first again and again, it's smooth for about 3 seconds and then gets notchy again. If I turn the engine off and do the same thing, it's totally clean after the first time. This tells me the clutch is dragging, does that make sense? I believe it's the original clutch since new (200,000 KM). Maybe a bleeding is in order? MrZig fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 20:40
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it sounds more like typical syncro wear. With almost ten years on that transmission you pretty much just have to deal with it. I've got almost 200k on mine and I have to be pretty mindful to take my time with shifts and help the syncros out. To go from 5th to 4th I have to double clutch and rev-match. Did it get better or worse after you changed the fluid? Hey CT do you have a plan for the oil pan/pickup, and are you leaving in the stock pistons?
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Nov 8, 2011 21:09
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jamal posted:
nm fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 21:19
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jamal posted:it sounds more like typical syncro wear. With almost ten years on that transmission you pretty much just have to deal with it. I've got almost 200k on mine and I have to be pretty mindful to take my time with shifts and help the syncros out. To go from 5th to 4th I have to double clutch and rev-match. Well, first used to physically grind before I changed the fluid. Thing is, it shift's fantastic when cold, and only gets this way when hot. The direct opposite of most worn-syncro transmissions I've used. I really think its the dragging clutch. Will find out shortly! MrZig fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 21:39
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jamal posted:
The engine I'm just going to throw together to get me going or the big bang bastard? Just for now I'm going to grab the new STI block, put it all back together and also do the oil pan / oil pickups and oil pump etc with.... I dunno I keep hearing differing ideas and vendors. I'll just do reliabilty mods and simply get back on the road. The price I've just paid for the new block was too good to pass up. Maybe I'll still put pistons in....? I dont know I just want to get going again and do a season or two with it. The now spare engine - well that's a different story. That I will go insane on and build it properly
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Nov 8, 2011 22:48
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