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HammerOfHope posted:On a completely unrelated subject, does anyone notice the gearbox feels pretty flimsy when downshifting quickly as you're coming to a stop? Coming down 2 to 1 especially it gets stuck in neutral half the time, then I have to ease out the clutch so it "pops" into place. Does anyone else get this problem? Never, ever had this problem. What year, how many miles, and was it ever abused (clutchless shifting, etc)?
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Nov 5, 2011 20:31
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A misadjusted clutch lever will do that. If when you pull the clutch in it doesn't disengage the whole way, it will do exactly what you're describing. Take the slack out of the cable maybe?
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Nov 5, 2011 20:50
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HammerOfHope posted:On a completely unrelated subject, does anyone notice the gearbox feels pretty flimsy when downshifting quickly as you're coming to a stop? Coming down 2 to 1 especially it gets stuck in neutral half the time, then I have to ease out the clutch so it "pops" into place. Does anyone else get this problem? Are you trying to shift into first while you're stopped? Bike transmissions don't like that. Xovaan posted:
Just a small piece of plastic hanging from the middle of the radiator to deflect water spray. Make it out of anything, attach it with zip ties.
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Nov 5, 2011 20:56
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Z3n posted:Are you trying to shift into first while you're stopped? Bike transmissions don't like that. Wait, dangling from the base of the radiator? Or from the front of the radiator?
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Nov 6, 2011 10:28
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Xovaan posted:Could you expand on this? I'm gonna be riding my bike through winter and this sounds like a necessity for me. An "Extenda Fenda" http://www.pyramid-plastics.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=98 works amazingly well on a SV650. It's not pretty, but it works. Another solution is to fill the front spark plug boot with silicone gel - actually, that's probably the most effective solution.
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Nov 6, 2011 11:50
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Sir Cornelius posted:An "Extenda Fenda" http://www.pyramid-plastics.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=98 works amazingly well on a SV650. It's not pretty, but it works. Another solution is to fill the front spark plug boot with silicone gel - actually, that's probably the most effective solution. I filled both with a bunch of silicone gel, a bit messy but it works. I ride in nasty poo poo and have never had the bike run on one cylinder or act funny when it is pouring down rain.
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Nov 6, 2011 14:17
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Xovaan posted:Wait, dangling from the base of the radiator? Or from the front of the radiator? From the bottom of the middle of the radiator. Look at the front tire, where it'd spray water at the plug, and go from there.
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Nov 6, 2011 21:32
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Z3n posted:From the bottom of the middle of the radiator. Look at the front tire, where it'd spray water at the plug, and go from there. Ah, gotcha. I also like that fender extension and the dielectric grease idea. I'm gonna at least put a ton of grease in the boot just to be safe.
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Nov 6, 2011 22:25
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Xovaan posted:Ah, gotcha. I also like that fender extension and the dielectric grease idea. I'm gonna at least put a ton of grease in the boot just to be safe. Stop right there. Silikone gel, not grease and not silicone filler! Gel! Well to be fair, it's often sold as "Silicone Dielectric" grease. You should seriously consider the fender extension too. If not for your front spark plug then for your boots. I don't own a SV650 myself, but one of my friends does. The few times I rode it, it never failed to fill my boots with rain. Yeah, the boots on my feet as well as the spark plug boots. I kindly demanded that he installed a fender extender, if he ever wanted me to wrench his bike again. I know the fender extender is pretty ugly, but it works - and dry boots beats cold feet and unintentional highway parkings. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 22:36
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Well, it's an 08 SA, 16k km and in generally excellent shape. I bought it a couple months ago and it seems like the PO took good care of it. Sometimes shifting to 1st from N at a stop will cause it to jump a little, but I thought that was natural. The clutch cable is currently set pretty tight (ie. I only have to pull it in a little before I reach the friction zone) and I only encounter this problem occasionally when I'm slowing down and coming to a stop. I read somewhere that it's not a good idea to shift down to first unless the bike is almost at a stop, could this have something to do with it?
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Nov 7, 2011 02:27
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I'm having problems with my Sv ('99, Holeshot slip on, k&n air filter)  I got all excited to ride it to work today but she wouldn't start. It cranked but wouldn't turn over, I assumed it was the battery. After I got home from work I put it on a tender and checked the air filter / box just to make sure mice hadn't made a home out of it. They were both clean so and I didn't see any chewed wires or anything. After the battery charged up I was able to get it started with the choke on but it didn't sound right. It was idling very low, maybe at 2k RPM or so and was making what I could only describe as a coughing sound from the exhaust. As soon as I eased off the choke the engine would cut off. I might have left the choke engaged all day, would that cause issues? Are there any obvious things I should check that help figure out what's causing problems? I really hope it's something dumb I over looked because we are supposed to have some really nice weather this week and it's probably going to be the last chance I get to ride before winter starts in full effect.
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Nov 8, 2011 02:39
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How much gas is in it? Get some fresh gas, coughing out of the exhaust is misfiring, usually due to lovely fuel or fouled plugs. If you rode it around all day with the choke on it could have caused the plugs to foul from running rich.
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Nov 8, 2011 02:44
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HammerOfHope posted:I read somewhere that it's not a good idea to shift down to first unless the bike is almost at a stop, could this have something to do with it? It goes like: *click* 4th *click* 3rd *click* 2nd *click*whirrrrrrrrrrr, dropping in pitch as I lose speed. Normal, or should I be worried?
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Nov 8, 2011 02:55
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Schottingham posted:Possibly related: My '02 SV makes a faint but audible sort of whining sound when in first gear, regardless of clutch position. I find it most noticeable when coasting up to a traffic light after exiting the interstate, as I tend to coast for a while in 5th or 6th, then shift straight down to first without releasing the clutch. Have you lubed your chain recently? Even money on chain noise or transmission noise in the lowest gear. Also, you should really downshift as you slow just in case you need to get on the throttle for some reason.
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Nov 8, 2011 02:58
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Z3n posted:Are you trying to shift into first while you're stopped? Bike transmissions don't like that. You're saying you're supposed to shift into first before you come to a stop? Why? And what about every time I park my bike, leave it in neutral, then shift to first in order to get going the next time? Or stop at a red light, put it in neutral, then shift into first? King Nothing fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 03:20
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King Nothing posted:You're saying you're supposed to shift into first before you come to a stop? Why? And what about every time I park my bike, leave it in neutral, then shift to first in order to get going the next time? Or stop at a red light, put it in neutral, then shift into first? In first before you come to a stop so you can, you know, move if you have to. In first when it's parked so it doesn't roll. And if you shift into neutral at a stop, nbd man. I always leave my bike in gear when it's parked, and shift down to first coming to stop. The fact that people don't do this amazes me.
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Nov 8, 2011 04:29
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Z3n posted:Have you lubed your chain recently? Even money on chain noise or transmission noise in the lowest gear. Yeah, just the other day. I was thinking transmission noise, but what would cause that? Bearing starting to go? Good point about downshifting, I'll try to remember that.
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Nov 8, 2011 04:44
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invision posted:In first before you come to a stop so you can, you know, move if you have to. I wasn't saying I don't shift into first before coming to a stop, I was asking why it mattered when you shift into first from a stop so much anyway. Don't think I've ever had my bike roll when parked...although my car definitely does so I always put that in gear.
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Nov 8, 2011 04:46
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Z3n posted:How much gas is in it? Get some fresh gas, coughing out of the exhaust is misfiring, usually due to lovely fuel or fouled plugs. If you rode it around all day with the choke on it could have caused the plugs to foul from running rich. I filled it up about three weeks ago and it was sitting for maybe a week and half / two weeks. Can it really go bad that quick? I'll try putting some fuel stabilizer in and trying tomorrow to see if that helps. I had the plugs replaced at the start of the summer so I hope that's not the case. I'll have to check around to see how to check the plugs have been fouled. I didn't ride it around at all, it wouldn't start this morning and once I got it started later tonight it didn't sound right so I didn't even try to ride it at the point. I think I left the choke on all day while it was parked, it doesn't seem like that would cause any problems but I am not sure.
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Nov 8, 2011 05:24
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So my friend invited me over to his house today to fix up some of the gross poo poo that the previous owner forsook on the bike. I'm glad I know such an awesome guy to help me with a lot of these tasks because since moving up to college I haven't had access to a garage with real tools and it drives me insane. This guy takes it to another level, though: he's an electrician and a welder and has the tools to back it up (as well as tons of scrap from the amusement park he works at) Like, uh, this thing. What the gently caress is this thing? Why would anybody think it's a good idea to make your bike look like Batman?  Day-Glo motherfucker. Even Batman needs to be seen by soccer moms on their cellhones.  What in god's name...?    Test fitted, it's already night and day compared to the old front end. It's the jankiest, most ghetto thing I've ever seen and I loving love it. He's taking it to work to have it TIG welded and bead blasted then we're either going to clear coat it or paint it something crazy for the bike. The exhaust flanges are going to be used to hold bolts for the brackets that clamp down the bulb fixtures. I'll post a full picture when it's in place and fully installed. Basically the previous owner put some DDM Tuning HID lights on the bike which, while pretty bright, looked terrible in that abortion of a mask. My friend and I decided to have some fun in fabricating a front end from some scrap steel he found around his property while we decide if we want to keep the HID setup or put back on the stock headlight assembly that came with the bike. It's still a terrible abortion of a setup, but this abortion doesn't look nearly as bad. (it looks much better in person; I just couldn't get any good shots since we parked the bike under a light that was about a foot from a wall) I also replaced the broken clutch assembly and left clip-on hardware with some nearly new OEM GSXR1000 equipment and my friend welded on a bracket to properly mount the Yoshimura exhaust. Upon inspecting the tweaker wiring job the previous owner did, I also found that one of (I'm guessing) the PCV hoses was pinched in three places because it was far too long for the bike and the air box was sitting about a half inch over the carburetors not actually doing anything because of the jumble of rainbow spaghetti the previous owner decided to not properly tuck into the bike frame. I also sanded down the smoke finish that was obstructing most of the visibility from the brake light and looks a million times better. Next up: 1. Tidy up internal wiring 2. Install front turn signals 3. Make custom anti-rain bracket to dangle below the radiator 4. Properly install the front headlight assembly 5. Check for anything else that the previous owner obviously hosed up
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Nov 8, 2011 10:22
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I really, really, really hate those mask-looking headlight things, but it seems that the "streetfighter" crowd (read: naked SVs with a goofy headlight) seem to love them.
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Nov 8, 2011 13:11
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Xovaan posted:
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Nov 8, 2011 14:41
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At least that Acerbis came with HID lights installed, and not the usual Acerbis lights. Indeed ugly.
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Nov 8, 2011 16:01
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Schottingham posted:Yeah, just the other day. I was thinking transmission noise, but what would cause that? Bearing starting to go? Bikes generally run straight cut gears. The noise is usually lost in the noise of the engine, but if you clutch in as you come to a stop in first gear where the ratio is large, you can hear them. King Nothing posted:You're saying you're supposed to shift into first before you come to a stop? Why? And what about every time I park my bike, leave it in neutral, then shift to first in order to get going the next time? Or stop at a red light, put it in neutral, then shift into first? It's not a matter of neutral being bad for the bike, it's generally just about being ready to go if you need to. Also, some bikes don't like to go into first if they're not rolling a bit. Generally only found on bikes that have been abused or older bikes, but worth being aware of. Anarchist posted:I filled it up about three weeks ago and it was sitting for maybe a week and half / two weeks. Can it really go bad that quick? I'll try putting some fuel stabilizer in and trying tomorrow to see if that helps. I had the plugs replaced at the start of the summer so I hope that's not the case. I'll have to check around to see how to check the plugs have been fouled. I didn't ride it around at all, it wouldn't start this morning and once I got it started later tonight it didn't sound right so I didn't even try to ride it at the point. I think I left the choke on all day while it was parked, it doesn't seem like that would cause any problems but I am not sure. Nah, gas should be fine. I'd check that your battery isn't toast...what's it's resting voltage key off and key on? Xovaan, looks like you've got a sweet bike getting built...I'll be fabbing up a ghettofabulous headlight mount for mine soon too 
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Nov 8, 2011 18:29
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Z3n posted:Xovaan, looks like you've got a sweet bike getting built...I'll be fabbing up a ghettofabulous headlight mount for mine soon too If you were still up here, I'd say you could run up to my friend's house and we could use some scrap and his welder and make something epic and you can see just how janky this bike currently is! There are wires everywhere that lead to supposedly nowhere. It's quite the experience. I don't know how people can be so bad at things. I mean, in a car I can understand because everything is a pain in the rear end to get to (although it's still not a good excuse for shoddy workmanship in something which will be hurling its steel carcass down a road surrounded by people) but in the minute it took to access my chassis wiring harness I realized this bike might have been Fischerprice's My First Hack Job more than a reliable daily rider.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:06
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Soon hopefully I'll have my own welder, so that'll be awesome. In the mean time I'm using snips, a hammer, a grinder, and a drill to rig up what I need. Figure I'll start doing it the hard way and then see what I've been missing down the road! As to how people are so bad at things...I think most just don't know any better.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:33
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I'd say so as well, but when you're dealing with a bike you'd think people would be a bit more careful with "upgrades" that could potentially leave you hurling your flailing body like a ragdoll into oncoming traffic. If you have to get a welder, get one off of Craigslist to practice first. Start with MIG because it will be fine for what you need to do. Miller makes great ones; my friend down south uses it for all of his work. Metalwork is literally carpentry for manly men.
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Nov 8, 2011 21:41
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Xovaan posted:I'd say so as well, but when you're dealing with a bike you'd think people would be a bit more careful with "upgrades" that could potentially leave you hurling your flailing body like a ragdoll into oncoming traffic. Yeah I've got a bit of training from a friend who's been building poo poo since the 60s. I'm gonna go TIG because just about everything I want to do is aluminum, and I eventually want to do frames and stuff, and MIG doesn't offer the same level of control.
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Nov 8, 2011 21:51
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Oh yeah, then TIG is the way to go. I just don't have a grand to drop on one that I'd want.  Luckily my friend has an entire shop at his work with plasma cutters and welders and bead blasters and all sorts of what-have-you for us poorfolk.  Say... you gonna use that solo tail from the sv500? 
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Nov 8, 2011 22:03
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So I'm getting ready to replace the chain and sprockets on my SV (21k miles, I think they're still the originals), and after watching a couple videos and reading a couple of guides, I feel pretty confident about it. Something I haven't seen addressed for the SV in particular though: part of the clutch mechanism is in the way of the front sprocket nut, how do I move it? Is it safe to detach the clutch cable from the arm, or will it spring itself into a damaging or difficult-to-recover position? I don't know what I'm afraid of exactly, probably worrying too much about this, but better safe than sorry I guess 
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Nov 8, 2011 22:38
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Schottingham posted:So I'm getting ready to replace the chain and sprockets on my SV (21k miles, I think they're still the originals), and after watching a couple videos and reading a couple of guides, I feel pretty confident about it. Something I haven't seen addressed for the SV in particular though: part of the clutch mechanism is in the way of the front sprocket nut, how do I move it? Is it safe to detach the clutch cable from the arm, or will it spring itself into a damaging or difficult-to-recover position? I don't know what I'm afraid of exactly, probably worrying too much about this, but better safe than sorry I guess You can just disconnect the cable at the top, that'll give you enough slack to disconnect it at the bottom. Don't forget to bend the little retaining clip out of the way. You can disconnect it without any problems. 
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Nov 8, 2011 22:50
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Z3n posted:Nah, gas should be fine. I'd check that your battery isn't toast...what's it's resting voltage key off and key on. I dont have a separate multimeter but the charger showed 12.9~ key off and 11.7~ key on. I think your right about the battery, I'm pretty sure its the factory original. Now I just need to find where oil is leaking from.
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Nov 9, 2011 00:01
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Anarchist posted:I dont have a separate multimeter but the charger showed 12.9~ key off and 11.7~ key on. I think your right about the battery, I'm pretty sure its the factory original. Yeah that's too low with the key on. Battery is probably toast, I'd check the charging system as well just in case.
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Nov 9, 2011 00:03
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Anarchist posted:I dont have a separate multimeter There's no reason you don't. For hobby use something like this will be just fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html?utm_campaign=SEO&utm_medium=Inbound_links&utm_source=linking
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Nov 9, 2011 07:43
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 Test fitting it tomorrow. Should be interesting, to say the least!
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Nov 9, 2011 08:08
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Sir Cornelius posted:There's no reason you don't. For hobby use something like this will be just fine: Thanks for the suggestion, I'm slowly building up my tool collection. Next step; Torque Wrenches. Z3n posted:Yeah that's too low with the key on. Battery is probably toast, I'd check the charging system as well just in case. Is there anyway to check the charging system with out a multimeter? I ordered the one Cornelius linked but I won't get that until after the weekend. Are there any battery brands I should avoid or are they all pretty similar?
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Nov 11, 2011 17:00
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Anarchist posted:Thanks for the suggestion, I'm slowly building up my tool collection. Next step; Torque Wrenches. Sadly, no. But you might be able to borrow one from a local autostore. Most battery brands should be fine.
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Nov 11, 2011 20:26
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Picked up the delkevic 350mm, with the baffle in it's pretty reasonable, not TOO much louder than stock although it has a bit more punch. I'll have to have a friend ride it by so I can hear how it sounds under power, but just blipping in the driveway sounds fine. Definitely gives it a meatier sound and only ~$140! Thanks for the tip, walkin dude.
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Nov 14, 2011 00:57
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This bike's got more problems than Jay-Z. The airbox was sitting on top of the carbs with no boots to seal them. How retarded was this guy exactly? Just ordered some more for $30 shipped to my door. Here's my friend and his shop's artisan welder's handiwork going onto my bike.  Not bad for free! They need to be adjusted a tad bit because they're projecting light in all the wrong areas, but it's still head-over-heels better looking than that abortion of a Batman mask that was littering up the front end of the bike. So I put a GSXR1000 clutch lever on the bike, but the clutch's friction zone is now when the lever is nearly completely released. What's the easiest way to go about adjusting this? The little dial on the lever, right? The reason I ask is because when the bike's back wheel is in the air and the clutch is disengaged, no matter what setting we adjust the cable for, the back wheel has difficulty moving, like it's still experiencing some friction. Is this normal?
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Nov 14, 2011 03:21
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There will always be some drag on the rear wheel unless you kick it into neutral. Also boxy headlight crew represent.
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Nov 14, 2011 03:31
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