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Aargh posted:Is there proper technique or some tutorials on how to properly wheelie, stoppie or back it in. I've put about 1000ks on the KTM so far and feel I should really learn how to do some of this stuff, for you know, safety skills. I'm pretty sure to wheelie a KTM you twist the right grip real good and hold on, oh and cover the rear brake.
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Nov 4, 2011 06:29
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Aargh posted:Is there proper technique or some tutorials on how to properly wheelie, stoppie or back it in. I've put about 1000ks on the KTM so far and feel I should really learn how to do some of this stuff, for you know, safety skills. The wheelie is going to be the easiest thing to learn. Sit as far back as you comfortably can. Start by going around 20mph or so in 2nd gear, pulling in the clutch, and revving it up while letting out the clutch quickly. You can experiment with how much throttle you need (probably more than you think) to get the front wheel up. Practice stopping each wheelie with the rear brake. I prefer first gear going really slow (~5mph) but it's touchier. You can also try power wheelies in first or second gear by just aggressively rolling on the throttle, but I prefer clutch-ups. For stoppies,, sit on top of the tank and aggressively (but progressively) use the front brake while pulling in the clutch until you feel the rear get light, and practice getting more and more air. Be careful with these because if you go too far, there's no saving it. It smooths things out if you stand up on the pegs as the rear comes back down instead of letting all your body weight come down with the bike.
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Nov 4, 2011 12:20
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I never thought I'd be able to back it in and then on my second trackday it just happened by accident. Charging down a straightaway towards a chicane, I got hard on the brakes and banged it down three gears. I felt like I matched revs ok, so I guess what happened is I began to turn before the clutch was all the way out and the back end stepped out accompanied by a lot of tire squealing. It was only for a second and wasn't showy to be sure, but it felt pretty awesome once I realized I wasn't crashing. I don't think I'd be able to do it if I only rode street, rather it's something that just starts happening when you race (for me anyway).
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Nov 4, 2011 14:21
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Dont start with clutched wheelies, just do power wheelies to begin with.
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Nov 4, 2011 14:24
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Dont start with clutched wheelies, just do power wheelies to begin with. ... if your bike is powerful enough... 
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Nov 4, 2011 15:11
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Having grown up on dirt bikes(like most people probably) and transitioning to street bikes later on.. just seeing one of these bikes makes me dream of owning one. Living in an apartment can really suck if you're a cycle rider though, someone already tried to steal my ZR out of the parking lot a while back. I think a bike like this would be easier for someone to load up and haul off with just a couple guys.
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Nov 4, 2011 15:17
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KARMA! posted:... if your bike is powerful enough... You can power wheelie a Honda Spree, your bike is powerful enough. GeneticWeapon posted:Having grown up on dirt bikes(like most people probably) and transitioning to street bikes later on.. just seeing one of these bikes makes me dream of owning one. Its also easier to wheel into your apartment 
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Nov 4, 2011 15:50
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You can start learning to back it in completely upright. Get up to about 60MPH, hard on the front brake, and downshift to second and then drop the clutch as you're slowing, because you should have a slipper clutch in that thing. The tail end of the bike will waggle a bit. When you get comfortable with that, lean the bike over to one direction a bit while still going straight and it'll slide out to the rear out in the other direction (ie, lean the bike a bit to the right and the rear wheel will slide out on the left). If it hops rather than slides, you need to be more aggressive on the front brake, you need more engine braking, or you need to use the rear brake to get it to slide out. I use a fair bit of rear brake to get it to slide out when I'm on the street, on the track I don't use the rear brake at all. Give it a shot and let us know how it turns out. 
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Nov 4, 2011 17:39
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Dont start with clutched wheelies, just do power wheelies to begin with. This is the opposite of what you should do.
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Nov 4, 2011 18:26
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I started out with power wheelies, and then moved to clutch ups...the most important thing is to get comfortable with the front end coming off the ground and work towards the front wheel getting consistently as high as you want it, not going balls to the wall with one or the other your first time out.
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Nov 4, 2011 18:37
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You should always start with throttle-only wheelies. The throttle is the biggest tool you have in controlling and starting wheelies, and its the one you need to learn the best. If you have a bike that's got so much power that a throttle wheelie comes up so fast you are afraid of it, clutching up isn't going to be any less terrifying when you aren't used to it. I recommend getting a feel for bringing the front up using throttle and then getting started with clutch ups, then bring yourself closer to BP. Remember, weight back, eyes up, rear brake covered, throttle ON (LOTS), and if it isn't working you just don't want it bad enough.
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Nov 4, 2011 18:38
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n8r posted:This is the opposite of what you should do. Not really. Its easier to start with throttle only wheelies when you dont know how to do wheelies
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Nov 4, 2011 20:11
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Z3n posted:You can start learning to back it in completely upright. Get up to about 60MPH, hard on the front brake, and downshift to second and then drop the clutch as you're slowing, because you should have a slipper clutch in that thing. The tail end of the bike will waggle a bit. When you get comfortable with that, lean the bike over to one direction a bit while still going straight and it'll slide out to the rear out in the other direction (ie, lean the bike a bit to the right and the rear wheel will slide out on the left). I was playing around yesterday on the ride to and from work and noticed I'm getting the rear to slide a bit on aggressive down shifting. I may have been doing it for a bit but since I usually have headphones on I haven't noticed the chirping of the tyre - once I noticed it I started trying to do it more and more when I was stopping at lights and there weren't too many cars about. As for all the rest, I'll head out later today and report back.
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Nov 5, 2011 00:17
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You bunch of hooligans.
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Nov 5, 2011 01:08
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Not really. Its easier to start with throttle only wheelies when you dont know how to do wheelies It's for sure easier to accidentally do throttle-only wheelies when you don't know how to do wheelies. These bikes have so much torque.
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Nov 5, 2011 04:19
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Trip report, got distracted, went for 250km ride instead of trying to do wheelies. Maybe tomorrow.
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Nov 5, 2011 07:05
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Missed out on that sweet ktm a few weeks ago Picked up this little number today though  pic from the for sale ad as its too dark here at the moment. loads of farkles and all the original bits in a box. K&n jetkit and full yoshimura system. gel seat + stock seat, Renthal fatbars, zeta levers. all for €3480.
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Nov 8, 2011 23:18
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Z3n posted:You can start learning to back it in completely upright. Get up to about 60MPH, hard on the front brake, and downshift to second and then drop the clutch as you're slowing, because you should have a slipper clutch in that thing. The tail end of the bike will waggle a bit. When you get comfortable with that, lean the bike over to one direction a bit while still going straight and it'll slide out to the rear out in the other direction (ie, lean the bike a bit to the right and the rear wheel will slide out on the left). This would be the same method for a regular street bike right? What are you doing with the throttle while doing this? Is it like a normal corner? During braking = off the throttle, turn in = bike slides out, back on (maintenance) throttle immediately once done turning in? Or do you need to do anything special to avoid high siding? I'm not about to go try this on the street but I am kinda curious. edit - im trying to guess this in my head.. so after turning in/bike sliding out, stay off throttle until you see the corner exit and then roll on gas to come out of it? GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Nov 9, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 23:54
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re: wheelies http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3_Z96lxyUo He talks a bit about why you should clutch up. At any rate it's much easier to control a clutched wheelie.
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Nov 9, 2011 00:19
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For you Phoenix goons: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/2686666147.html http://i.imgur.com/E8wad.png http://i.imgur.com/7z46B.png
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Nov 9, 2011 00:49
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GanjamonII posted:This would be the same method for a regular street bike right? You can do it on a regular streetbike but it's way more sketch because you typically need a lot more speed and a much more aggressive approach, and if you screw it up, things go a lot more poorly with the additional weight of the supersport. You're completely off the throttle when you're backing it in. The best riders will run from backing it in to powersliding it out of the corner without it ever coming back in line, most mere mortals will bring it back in line first and then power slide it out of the corner. What happens is you're hard on the front brake, while upright. You downshift, slip the clutch, and it starts to slide out. Usually you're already leaned over a bit to get it sliding to the right direction. As you approach your turn in point, it should be coming back in line or already be back in line. If it's not, as you turn in, it's going to keep sliding outwards, so you have to balance the application of lean angle with how far you want it to be out of line. When you first start, it'll be back in line long before you turn in. As you get more comfortable with it, you'll start letting it slide until you're approaching the apex. After it comes back into line, you'll switch to maintenance throttle. If you get on the throttle too early, you gotta keep it sliding or bring it back in gently so that it doesn't catch traction while you've got the wheels out of line. The most insane back it sideways to the apex, and then give it a fistful of gas to get it spinning faster than the road speed without ever regaining traction. You can pick up maintenance throttle as soon as it's back in line, though. But as always, you don't want to overdo it. I back it in because I'm too feeble to blip my downshifts, no other real reason. Backing it in is just the side effect. I could see some gains from it on the sumo track with getting the bike pointed a little earlier, but on the big tracks and supersports the gains was consistency on the brakes from not having to worry about blipping. Does that explain what's going on well enough? Z3n fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 9, 2011 |
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Nov 9, 2011 02:06
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Z3n posted:How to back it in 
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Nov 9, 2011 02:45
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Z3n posted:Does that explain what's going on well enough? Yes, yes it does thanks. I don't foresee myself trying this any time soon at least not on public streets.
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Nov 9, 2011 02:53
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GanjamonII posted:Yes, yes it does thanks. A parking lot is a good place to give it a try! It also can help bail you out if you accidentally grab one too many downshifts sometime, if you understand what's going on you can control it rather than just making GBS threads your pants.
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Nov 9, 2011 02:55
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My buddy picked up a DRZ for $2800 as his first bike, has somewhere around 10-20k miles on it (dash cracked, swapped out with one that says 2900) and otherwise clean. Now if only the drat guy with the WR would let me look at it already 
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Nov 9, 2011 19:39
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Ive found this pdf to be helpful, and with pics! right click, save link. Regarding the ktm freeride, did I recall reading it wasnt coming to the states So says Cycleworld...
GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Nov 10, 2011 |
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Nov 10, 2011 04:49
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The age-old formula proves itself again: Is the bike in question awesome? Is the bike in question a sportbike or cruiser? Answer key: YES-NO: Not coming to USA YES-YES: Maybe coming to USA NO-YES: Definitely coming to USA NO-NO: Already in the USA and discontinued
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Nov 10, 2011 17:35
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Hay guyz, can I come play? 2008 WR250X, 4300 miles, Protaper bars, FMF powerbomb header/muffler, tail tidy, LED signals etc. 
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Nov 10, 2011 19:50
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Too little power, looks like poo poo, not loud enough. Kids first bike. *buys one within a week*
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Nov 10, 2011 20:17
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Too little power, looks like poo poo, not loud enough. Kids first bike. People did the same thing for the DRZ. "Only 33HP?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?" *audible snort* *buys a DRZ* When will people learn that smaller displacement bikes own?
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Nov 10, 2011 20:30
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I got clowned on IRL by all my friends on my first bike (GS500, pretty underwhelming and I bought a POS so I laughed with them) I talk about wanting a DRZ and i get poo poo on infinitely. I buy DRZ and everyone is silenced. Biggest poo poo talker buys a yellow DRZ not a week after I do. v  v1.5 weeks into owning my DRZ I'm loving every second of it. I havent tried any dickhead moves yet like wheelies and whatnot, I wanted to take it slow and get a feel for the bike first. poo poo, I redlined it for the first time last night and I've put about 300 miles onto it haha.
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Nov 10, 2011 20:45
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It's not that I didn't love my DRZ, it's that once I rode a track supermoto and the 690 I just couldn't ever bring myself to ride mine again. They are wonderful, wonderful bikes. There are just bikes that take that nugget of what makes them so great and turn it up to 11, and I can't say no to that. Even so I still miss the little thing. When I took it for our last ride together the day before I sold it, it put a huge smile on my face and I knew I was going to miss it. Then I blew a stop sign because I was used to the 690's brakes and thought I was going to die when lever hit bar on the DRZ and it (to my brain) WASNT STOPPING. <3
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Nov 10, 2011 21:16
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That's actually why I didn't like the 690 I tried. If you don't ride it To tHe ExxxTr3m3 all the time, it didn't feel like it offered more value than the DRZ. Better brakes, sure. More power, oh yes. Better suspension, not really since I'm built like Jack Skellington and it suffered from the what I've heard others refer to as "the usual WP fork". But anyway, it felt like ownership of that bike came with an obligation to flog it mercilessly all day, every day, and that’s not really why I ride. Or so I like to tell myself. I believe that is the same reason I bought a SV650 and not a 1000. Different strokes and all that.
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Nov 10, 2011 23:26
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Nidhg00670000 posted:That's actually why I didn't like the 690 I tried. If you don't ride it To tHe ExxxTr3m3 all the time, it didn't feel like it offered more value than the DRZ. Better brakes, sure. More power, oh yes. Better suspension, not really since I'm built like Jack Skellington and it suffered from the what I've heard others refer to as "the usual WP fork". But anyway, it felt like ownership of that bike came with an obligation to flog it mercilessly all day, every day, and that’s not really why I ride. Or so I like to tell myself. I gave it up because I want to ride like that an I really shouldn't. I mean, COME ON: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad7syR-joOU
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Nov 10, 2011 23:51
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Well, I can't wheelie, so there is that. My psyche is unable to adjust to the awesomeness of wheelies, so to prevent myself from going insane I don't do stuff like that. I'm a law abiding citizen. Ignorance is Strength. 
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Nov 11, 2011 02:14
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Well, I can't wheelie, so there is that. My psyche is unable to adjust to the awesomeness of wheelies, so to prevent myself from going insane I don't do stuff like that. I'm a law abiding citizen. I couldn't wheelie before Supermoto either
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Nov 11, 2011 03:28
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Trials guys are the ultimate in hooliganism. You sumo guys need to step your game up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvKan5vnI_U&feature=related invision fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Nov 11, 2011 |
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Nov 11, 2011 03:33
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Cant we all just get along? DRZ's, 690's and WR's all own
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Nov 11, 2011 03:53
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http://i.imgur.com/1e10C.jpg Bought this last Friday. It only has 100 miles on it. After I bought it I drove it to the gas station and topped off the tank. When I was driving it home it died 1 mile away from where I gassed it up. Called the guy I bought it from and he picked me and the bike up and took it to the shop and gave me a ride home. The shop said they emptied the gas tank and cleaned the carbs. It ran fine for the 20 minute drive home and then I topped off the tank again. Then the same drat thing happened and it died 1 mile from my house. This morning it runs just fine. I let it idle for 10 minutes, drove it about a half mile around my house and it runs just fine. Not sure what the hell is going on with it. edit: Shop says they think I might be vaporlocking it up by topping it off. Told me to ride it today and see how it goes. ffubalo bill fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 11, 2011 |
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Nov 11, 2011 15:52
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So I was tooling around on craigslist and saw an ad for a SM that said something like "1200 miles, oil changed frequently." Frequently? This got me thinking of a friend of mine who had one of the Aprilia V-twin dirtbikes and what a nightmare it was. What are service intervals like for stuff like oil changes, valve jobs etc on most common supermotos, and is someone coming from a modern streetbike going to be shocked at the time or expense?
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Nov 11, 2011 18:17
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