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Miliary dermatitis is a reaction pattern cats get with allergies, and it's not specific to fleas. However, if they're outdoors that would certainly be my best guess. Just be aware that if flea meds from the vet don't clear it up, it could be something else.
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Oct 31, 2011 14:25
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Thanks for the responses, taking them in in 15 minutes. I live on a farm so sometimes we go without seeing them for a week or two. Fleas seem to be a reoccurring problem with our animals that are outside a lot.
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Nov 1, 2011 00:28
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err posted:Thanks for the responses, taking them in in 15 minutes. I live on a farm so sometimes we go without seeing them for a week or two. Fleas seem to be a reoccurring problem with our animals that are outside a lot. Ask about flea meds that are given orally, I'd think that they'd work out better for pets that are often outdoors. But once you start whatever flea meds you pick, keep them on it and save yourself the trouble.
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Nov 1, 2011 00:35
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I am going to be getting the following IKEA couch:  The fabric is similar to corduroy, this,  and so I'm sure my cats will love to use it as a cat scratcher. Is there anything I can do to prevent them from clawing at it so much? Maybe wrap it in something? Tape doesn't work because they like to pull it off and chew it. And yes, they have a ton of other scratchers of various types (kitty condo, cardboard floor ones). I am also worried about using soft paws because I probably won't be able to get them on, and I'm sure they will chew them off and eat them.
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Nov 1, 2011 01:00
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JoeyJoJoJr Shabadoo posted:I am also worried about using soft paws because I probably won't be able to get them on, and I'm sure they will chew them off and eat them. Honestly, I'd try the Softpaws first. You don't know that it will even be an issue, it's worth a shot. If that failed, I'd try a lot of scratching posts, of different types. Sissal, cardboard, just find out whatever they like and sprinkle it with catnip to get them interested in it. There are a lot of good scratching posts and toys out there. Also, I'd invest in a cheap slipcover until I got the cats settled on Softpaws or new scratching posts, one way of the other. Once it seems like their attention has been diverted away from the new couch, you can take it off. If they still display too much interest, you can always use double-sided tape for a while to discourage them.
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Nov 1, 2011 02:21
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I have a 10 year old female Yorkie. I have been noticing over the past year that she has become increasingly clumsy with her front legs; she stumbles forward quite a bit when running. It seems to be getting slowly, progressively worse. During her last vet visit, which she went to because she had a bladder infection, I mentioned the stumbling to the vet and she said it is just a sign of aging and there is nothing that can be done. Fast forward to about two weeks ago, she had a small seizure which lasted less than 45 seconds. I just held her in my arms wrapped in a blanket and spoke softly to her until it passed. Ever since the seizure, her stumbling has become much worse. I have watched her closely and it seems that the stumbles are caused by her not getting her front paws "pads down" and walking on the top of her paws. I guess the reason I post this is because I am worried and hoping that someone else has seen something like this in their dog and that it is nothing to worry about, but rather just my pup getting older. Also, maybe supply some advice, even if it is something like "take her to a vet for scanning." PyPy fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 02:46
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Pandub posted:I have a 10 year old female Yorkie. Old age is not a disease. It could be something treatable or it could not. No one on the internet will be able to tell you what is wrong with your dog. Your veterinarian should be able to do a comprehensive neurological exam on your dog to localize the problem areas causing her loss of proprioception and seizure, and either treat it or refer you to a neurologist for further workup. Further workup can include things like advanced imaging (MRI, CT scan, etc) that would allow the doctor to accurately diagnose and treat the signs. You could also call and ask your regular vet just for a referral to a board certified neurologist in your area if you would like to go straight to one for their opinion. It is possible that some of the signs you are seeing can be managed. Early intervention is always better than later intervention with neurological problems, so it's great that you are being pro-active.
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Nov 1, 2011 03:42
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My cat's been having sneezing fits lately. He seems perfectly healthy the rest of the time, but then he'll sneeze like 5 times in a row. We recently moved from Virginia to Illinois, and into an old (1890's) house. I'm not sure if it's the weather, or maybe some allergen from the house, or if he's getting sick. Like I said, it really doesn't seem like he's sick, but I guess I could be wrong. Are there any known cat allergens with certain carpet cleaners, or anything like that? I really hate to take an otherwise healthy cat to the vet when I'm already strapped for cash from the move, but I will if needed.
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Nov 1, 2011 05:42
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Enelrahc posted:Old age is not a disease. It could be something treatable or it could not. No one on the internet will be able to tell you what is wrong with your dog. Absolutely great advice and I just want to add to it... Pandub, she might be unsteady because of a disease that comes with old age, but these are almost always treatable. Our old foster is unsteady in his hindquarters because the bottom few vertebrae in his back are starting to fuse, and I was told this can come with age. But there are anti-inflammatories, anti-arthritic medications, joint supplements and so on that can help with these kinds of aches and pains. It's definitely not a situation where the vet should sit back and say "Oh, she's just old. Nothing we can do." Billy Black posted:My cat's been having sneezing fits lately. He seems perfectly healthy the rest of the time, but then he'll sneeze like 5 times in a row. We recently moved from Virginia to Illinois, and into an old (1890's) house. I'm not sure if it's the weather, or maybe some allergen from the house, or if he's getting sick. Like I said, it really doesn't seem like he's sick, but I guess I could be wrong. Stress can bring on things like upper respiratory infections in cats, and they can be very good at hiding it if they feel unwell. I would get him checked out if I were you; for peace of mind, and because it's less expensive to get a general consult than have to pay for an e-vet if he gets worse. 6-Ethyl Bearcat fucked around with this message at 11:22 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 11:20
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6-Ethyl Bearcat posted:Sounds like you're doing well with a still very young pup. He's eating the lead less & less, and we have noticed that sometimes when he's doing the crazy barking etc that it's because he needed a poop. But sometimes it's just crazy for no reason! Just another wee question, today he had a bit of diarrhoea (sp?) after lunch, and seemed like he had a bit of an irritating butt? He was trying to get at it with his mouth and sitting really funny after he pooped. We were advised to start feeding him dry food, and have started trying to introduce a brand called Lathams ( http://www.lathamsdogfood.com ) and I've been mixing it with the food he was eating before (which previously would have had wet food mixed into it). Could he have a reaction to the food? Should I stop giving him it or continue til he is used to it?
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Nov 1, 2011 14:17
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You've got the right idea with the mouthing. To add to that, if he gets too excited and the yelping etc. doesn't help, pop him in a time-out for 5 mins. If you can get one, an exercise pen is seriously the best thing for puppies and new dogs. I can keep my untrustworthy foster dog around me but I don't have to keep an eye on him 100% of the time.
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You pretty much described a puppy  Crazy sometimes cause he needs to poop, other times just crazy.Sometimes dogs get an upset tummy when their food is changed too quickly. Try mixing in 25% new food for a few days, then 50% for a few days, etc. You can go even slower if he needs to. You can also try throwing in some stuff to firm up his poo, like mashed pumpkin. If he's still got runny poo when you transition him more slowly, that particular food may not agree with him.
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Nov 1, 2011 15:33
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Enelrahc posted:Your veterinarian should be able to do a comprehensive neurological exam on your dog to localize the problem areas causing her loss of proprioception and seizure, and either treat it or refer you to a neurologist for further workup. To clarify the meaning of proprioception and why it's suspected to be related to a neurological issue - the dog not setting her front paws down correctly is very likely to mean that she does not have (conscious or unconscious) knowledge of how her paws are oriented in space. That it's her front paws rather than all four paws, and that she has also had a seizure can help a neurologist to figure out where the problem(s) may be within her nervous system. They may also notice more subtle signs during a comprehensive neurological exam that can further distinguish location. But once they figure out what the location of the problem is, the further diagnostics would be done in order to try to figure out WHAT is causing it at the given location so that they know how they should proceed for treatment. So if you can get to a veterinary neurologist, I totally third that it would be your very best option. Honestly, if I were in your shoes I'd probably just ask for a referral straight up since your vet sort of showed an unwillingness to address a problem that you very astutely noticed and brought to their attention. Ten isn't even really "old" for a Yorkie, honestly... Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 20:26
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Well. We took our 12 year old cat to the vet for a URI. They found a heart murmur, did some x-rays and bloodwork. We got the results today, and it seems we don't really have to worry about the murmur, since we caught his kidney failure in the beginning stages. He's not symptomatic right now (which is why this is so difficult to deal with...he's been more active in the past few days, I guess since he feels better after antibiotics), but the vet said his bloodwork was 'textbook'. He was pretty surprised himself since Wyatt's in excellent body condition and has had zero symptoms. The vet ran down our treatment options, and as much as I adore this cat, it seems like the long-term process is only prolonging the inevitable for our sake. I'm not saying that people who chose to do that are wrong, of course...but that for us, and this cat, his quality of life would be negatively impacted more with the treatment than if we do minimal intervention (renal diet, maybe sub q fluids) and put him down when he starts to decline. I know some people here have gone the long term route, but I'm wondering if anyone has gone the alternate way.
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Nov 1, 2011 20:37
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What kind of treatment options are you talking about? At any rate, when my family's old guy had kidney issues, we did the kidney diet and eventually the fluids, and he had I'd say a good couple of happy years before he really declined.
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Nov 1, 2011 20:47
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What kind of treatment was the vet suggesting beyond diet and possibly fluids? I've never heard of a vet suggesting really aggressive treatment for an asymptomatic cat. Usually you start with the Rx food and see how the animal does on that, with regular checks of his values. Even subcutaneous fluids are kind of odd for an animal that is in the early stages, from what I was told. Without knowing what the vet suggested, I can't comment on whether those treatments would be a huge negative impact on the cat's quality of life, but I find it very odd that at such an early stage they would recommend anything that even triggered that question in your head. Every animal is different, of course, but our renal cat had no other treatment than the diet for over five years, and only needed the fluids for a few months before he went into a sudden decline and we put him down. Sometimes the minimal treatment is the long-term treatment. Unless they're talking dialysis or a transplant? Those I could see being too much to put a cat through. Also, I don't think I would accept a diagnosis of renal failure based on a single blood panel if the cat has no symptoms at all. Maybe take him back in a month and get a recheck? Our vet constantly reminded us that a single value was useless, that it's a pattern of numbers that's necessary to know how the cat's kidneys are doing.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:17
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Sorry, I'm really flustered right now since it was so sudden. The vet is suggesting a kidney ultrasound to confirm what's causing it-- he said it could be autoimmune, infectious, or possibly due to a kidney stone (not likely). Vet also wants a second blood panel to check the severity of the anemia, another urinalysis, and a blood pressure check. Past this, his first line of treatment was obviously the renal diet, followed by 3-4x weekly injections of something to help with the anemia, my research points to Epogen being widely used, but that comes with weekly blood tests! So, five needle sticks a week and an office visit. He would also put the cat on something for whatever his blood test turned up on the second go-- but the vet did say that his electrolytes are within normal. This is all with monitoring to make sure that the heart murmur is from the anemia, and not something else. He wants to do an ultrasound on Wyatt's heart down the road. Thank you both so much for posting, it's really helped me assess this better. I asked what we were looking at life-wise with the full treatment, and he told me "a few months to a few years, I've had some cats do really well and live a couple of more years past diagnosis". Which is..dire, to say the least. I've been sitting here all day assuming I'm going to have to put my cat down over Christmas. I'm concerned about his quality of life because this is not a treatment accepting cat. He gets pissy when you clean his eye boogers out, and getting his Clavimox in him is an ordeal. Daily meds and frequent injections would be torture.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:29
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tsc posted:Thank you both so much for posting, it's really helped me assess this better. I asked what we were looking at life-wise with the full treatment, and he told me "a few months to a few years, I've had some cats do really well and live a couple of more years past diagnosis". Which is..dire, to say the least. I've been sitting here all day assuming I'm going to have to put my cat down over Christmas. I'm concerned about his quality of life because this is not a treatment accepting cat. He gets pissy when you clean his eye boogers out, and getting his Clavimox in him is an ordeal. Daily meds and frequent injections would be torture. Yeah, your vet seems kind of... doom and gloom. Loki was dx'd when he was 5, and we put him on the kidney diet and a supplement and he's turning 16 this year. Just had his teefers cleaned. His blood pressure is high now (just added meds for that), and his kidney values have just crested a bit over high normal. He's snoring on the couch. It's not an automatic death sentence. Yay old bastard kitties. 
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Nov 2, 2011 03:13
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Yeah...the vet is pretty young, so I'm not sure if it's inexperience talking, or if he is just awful at talking to people still. I think what we're going to do is get him on the renal diet and do the full shebang bloodwork in a month with a feline specialist (four hours away  but it's where my parents live). If his electrolytes are so normal, and with no symptoms, I can't imagine a month is going to hurt his long-term prognosis.
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Nov 2, 2011 06:20
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I recently (as in, three days ago) started attempting to feed my cats on a schedule. My new cat, Clover, who is about a year old, finishes his 1/4 cup of food quite quickly, but my 5 year old, Fussy, eats much slower and often doesn't finish his food. He weighs a solid 4lbs more than Clover, and so he gets a little bit more than 1/4 cup. The twice-a-day feedings end with Clover eating all of his food and immediately trying to get to Fussy's food after Fuss is bored of it and walks away. I put the food away when Fuss is done so that Clover doesn't overeat. Now, I understand that I'll just have to feed them in different rooms from now on, but is it okay that Fuss is eating less than what is recommended for his weight on the food bag? I'm feeding Acana Grasslands and have a variety pack of Merrick wet food that I'm trying out with them for wet right now - I might try a few different wet brands, but we'll see -Merrick is working out really well so far. I feed them dry once in the morning, around 8am, then wet before noon, then dry again around 8pm. Clover is an adolescent, so he's also always hungry and wakes me up in the middle of the night. I've ignored him thus far, that's okay right? It IS okay to feed what the bag says to feed (1/2 cup a day based on his weight) even though he's a teen?  Fussy helping me study  Clover modelling his sexy purple Soft Paws uptown fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 2, 2011 |
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Nov 2, 2011 20:14
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What causes pet dandruff? I just noticed that my dog is super flaky. Is it related to food? Last week he found and ate a 5lb bag of cat food.
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Nov 3, 2011 01:42
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Emasculatrix posted:What causes pet dandruff? I just noticed that my dog is super flaky. Is it related to food? Last week he found and ate a 5lb bag of cat food. It may also be weather-related. Fall and winter are rough on the skin.
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Nov 3, 2011 03:03
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Serella posted:It may also be weather-related. Fall and winter are rough on the skin. I thought about that, but we don't really have seasons in our area. It was almost 80 F last week. Is there anything else that might cause it?
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Nov 3, 2011 03:58
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Could be anything, you can try breaking some people fish oil capsules in his food for awhile to see if it helps at all. Have you checked his skin for any rashy or irritated areas?
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Nov 3, 2011 04:39
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First off I want to say that this forum is an amazing resource! I have been in the market for getting a dog for the better part of my life now, and I am finally in a spot where I'll be able to do it (we're buying a house in June with a pretty good sized yard, among other things) The question, though, is this: Neither of us really feel comfortable going through some of the local adoption agencies in the area since they all require strangers to come to our house to see if everything is "dog friendly." I understand the logic behind their wanting to do this (especially considering the average dog owner), but quite frankly inviting a person into my home that I don't know or trust just seems weird to me. All things being equal, is there really a big difference or added benefit between going through one of these adoption agencies versus, say, dropping by the pound or the local humane society and picking a dog up from there? Assume I am well read and prepared enough that I have a good idea of what I am looking for in a dog and will have the required equipment/access to veterinary care Hot Dog Day #82 fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 18:40
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I think the biggest advantage is that the rescues might have the dogs in foster homes or a shelter where they keep a closer eye on em to get to know their behaviors better. As a foster, Im able to provide potential adoptees a lot of information about a certain dog that they might not get at a shelter. I dont know if your pound offers a checkup beforehand either but a lot of the rescues seem to provide that. I've had my house 'checked' once, honestly, all the lady did was come in, I showed her my room where the dog would be sleeping and she said goodbye to the doggy. No peering under floorboards or judging my things laying around.
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Nov 7, 2011 18:58
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Yeah, I don't see why it would be a big deal. They aren't going to ask to be alone in your house, so they won't be able to do anything they shouldn't. Some shelters/rescues seem to be pretty judgmental, but they can be judgmental about almost anything (you aren't married? not a millionaire? don't have a fence? still a student? etc). For what it's worth, we got a dog through an adoption/foster group and they never asked to do a home visit. They would have had to drive five hours to do so anyway.
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Nov 7, 2011 19:13
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We adopted a basset hound puppy from a rescue agency back in August, and they required a home visit. My husband was not very keen on the idea, but we were smitten with a particular puppy so sucked it up. We had no idea what the home visit would entail, so we spent three days deep cleaning the house. We were worried about asking too many questions about the home visit because we didn't want to say the wrong thing and mess up our chances of adopting the dog. That led me to freak out for those three days, worried that anything might screw up the visit. The day of the visit, a representative from the organization came to the house, met our beagle, and spent about ten minutes in my living room talking to me about owning a dog. It was so painless that I wondered why I freaked out about the whole thing in the first place. She was already on the phone with the foster home to let them know we were approved to pick up the puppy before she pulled out of the driveway. Now we have a 17 week old ball of bones that I couldn't imagine living without. Home visits might be stressful, but it was worth it for us!
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Nov 7, 2011 23:09
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FWIW, when our dog foster checks homes, she's basically checking to make sure you don't have like 1,000 other dogs there. Individual dogs have specific needs she may check for (like we had a fence leaper that needed a hugely tall fence if they were going to let the dog out in the backyard so she wanted to confirm that), but otherwise basically to see that things are as you say they are in the app.
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Nov 8, 2011 00:47
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The lady who did the home visit from the beagle rescue we were looking at let her dog jump all over our cat and then he urinated in my family room.  But the home visit from the greyhound rescue was great. I think mileage on home visits varies a lot. Some rescues really just want to make sure you've got a good situation for a dog, whereas others seem like they're trying to find reasons to deny you a dog. Or, in the case of the beagle folks, get piss in my carpet and scare the poo poo out of my elderly cat.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:12
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Well thank you all for your input! I totally recognize that I am almost certainly being weird and probably overly cautious about the whole home-visit thing; I certainly wont let one 10 minute visit stand in the way of finally having my own four-legged companion should it come down to that!
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Nov 8, 2011 01:13
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Yesterday, a cat I got in junior high died of bone marrow cancer. I'd like to make a donation to some critter cancer research in her honor. Any recommendations about a good place to direct it?
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Nov 8, 2011 01:40
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ArmadilloConspiracy posted:Yesterday, a cat I got in junior high died of bone marrow cancer. I'd like to make a donation to some critter cancer research in her honor. Any recommendations about a good place to direct it? I'd think an earmarked donation for research to the veterinary oncology department at your veterinary school of choice would probably be the best way to go about that. I'm sorry to hear about your kitty 
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Nov 8, 2011 01:51
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I might just be bad at Google, but - Is the dog's upper lip involved in their sense of smell somehow? When my hound puts his nose to the ground, if you look at his head from behind you can see the pink of his inner-upper lip exposed. It's not visible at other times, and it seems to only be when he's sniffing. Is this somehow helping him pick up smells better, or ...?
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Nov 9, 2011 15:52
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Chexmix posted:I might just be bad at Google, but - Dogs (and cats and snakes and lots of different animals) have a sensory organ called the vomeronasal or Jacobson's organ which has sensors accessible through the mouth or upper lip. It mostly is used to sense pheromones and is what causes cats and other animals to make that weird stinkface (flehman response). Also your hound probably has big floppy lips that just flop down when his head is down sniffing and not when he's just walking around.
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Nov 9, 2011 16:33
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uptown posted:I recently (as in, three days ago) started attempting to feed my cats on a schedule. My new cat, Clover, who is about a year old, finishes his 1/4 cup of food quite quickly, but my 5 year old, Fussy, eats much slower and often doesn't finish his food. He weighs a solid 4lbs more than Clover, and so he gets a little bit more than 1/4 cup. The twice-a-day feedings end with Clover eating all of his food and immediately trying to get to Fussy's food after Fuss is bored of it and walks away. I put the food away when Fuss is done so that Clover doesn't overeat. Now, I understand that I'll just have to feed them in different rooms from now on, but is it okay that Fuss is eating less than what is recommended for his weight on the food bag? I'm feeding Acana Grasslands and have a variety pack of Merrick wet food that I'm trying out with them for wet right now - I might try a few different wet brands, but we'll see -Merrick is working out really well so far. I didn't see that anyone answered your questions, so here goes: Cats are generally smart creatures, and know how much nutrition they require. If Fussy doesn't want to eat as much as the bag recommends, and as long as he stays healthy and active, I wouldn't worry about him at all. Unless he's sick there's no reason to force him to eat. My cat, Rufus (nicknamed 'Fus, by the way!), is a grazer, and I can't ever get him to polish off a recommended serving in one sitting. He'll eat half of it and walk away, only to come back two hours later. Lucky for him that he's on prescription GI and the other cats don't care for it, otherwise it wouldn't be there for him to go back to. As for Clover, I wouldn't feel too bad about increasing the amount of food, as long as he's staying proportionate. Just like human teenagers that tend to eat their parents out of house and home, growing kitties need more food than their adult counterparts. I wouldn't go too much more, though. Just keep an eye on him and make sure he's not turning into a tub. This could also just be what happens when you go from free-feeding to scheduled feedings. They're accustomed to eating whenever they feel like it, so they react to their bodies' needs. It might just take them time to get used to the new way. PS, I free-feed and can usually trust them not to gorge themselves. One of them has food anxiety and will yank her fur out if the dish goes empty (stole her from a barn as a kitten), so my hands are kind of tied. Good thing it usually works out for me. Were you having weight issues with Fussy? And did he eat more of a different food before?
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Nov 9, 2011 18:04
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How do you measure the collar size on a fluffy dog? Over the fur pushing flat or push it out of the way a bit? She's still wearing the collar she came with, poor neglected doggie.
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Nov 11, 2011 14:48
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Kiri koli posted:How do you measure the collar size on a fluffy dog? Over the fur pushing flat or push it out of the way a bit? Push the fur out of the way. The collar will wriggle down into it so if you measure over the fur, it could end up too loose. Learnt the hard way with our hairy foster.
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Nov 11, 2011 15:11
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Kiri koli posted:How do you measure the collar size on a fluffy dog? Over the fur pushing flat or push it out of the way a bit? You can also measure the length of her current collar (which I imagine fits the way you want it) with a tailor's measuring tape. Or you can use the tape to measure the neck then guesstimate a bit more length to accommodate for fur. I like how my dog looks when she's wearing looser collars, and her longer fur means she's not likely to back out of it despite it easily fitting over her head.
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Nov 11, 2011 17:08
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a life less posted:You can also measure the length of her current collar (which I imagine fits the way you want it) with a tailor's measuring tape. Or you can use the tape to measure the neck then guesstimate a bit more length to accommodate for fur. I like how my dog looks when she's wearing looser collars, and her longer fur means she's not likely to back out of it despite it easily fitting over her head. Well, since it's the collar she had when we adopted her, I never really adjusted it myself. It fits in the sense that she's never gotten out of it, but I don't know if it could be more comfortable or something. I think I'll measure her neck and the collar and see if there's a big difference.
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Nov 11, 2011 17:56
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James Bond the cat has had diarrhea for about a day. He's otherwise fine; affectionate and playful as always. I wouldn't be too concerned except he's had it twice before in the past two years or so and now I'm wondering what's going on. It always goes away after a couple of days. I haven't pinpointed a cause. At what point should I become more concerned than I am? He also barfed three times between Monday and Tuesday, which isn't good, but he hasn't barfed since. He's been switched to a prescription urinary canned food (since September) and he doesn't like it much, and I wish I could feed him something else since I am afraid of lower quality cat foods, but I don't seem to have a choice if I don't want a pee-soaked couch :/ Tangent: what is it about prescription urinary food that makes it help with pee stuff? Could I make something myself?
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Nov 11, 2011 19:51
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