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I think I'm going to make a 109 then bronze it, mount it on a walnut base, and call it a day. Classy, and doesn't scream, "this guy can't paint!"
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Oct 22, 2011 03:21
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Morgenthau posted:Me too, the box is like this for reference. The Testors/Italeri F19. Think I only Paid £2 for it, but yeah... very rare. There's also a 1/72 scale version IIRC. 
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Oct 23, 2011 14:29
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Nebakenezzer posted:This plane is cool. Also, with some careful lighting and photography, you could use that tabletop or whatever it is to make it look as if the plane was flying over water.
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Oct 23, 2011 14:33
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Tiglath III posted:The Testors/Italeri F19. Think I only Paid £2 for it, but yeah... very rare. There's also a 1/72 scale version IIRC. Beat up old boxes like these are the best. I see a lot of these in the corner of a store that has nothing or next to nothing to do with models, marked down to something like 10% of what it originally cost and full of discontinued model goodness.
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Oct 23, 2011 19:02
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I finished my 1/72 Maus, I think it turned out well. Since it's a fantasy tank mostly, I felt I could do what I wanted with the paint. So the color scheme is taken from Box Turtles.  Ever since I got back into this hobby I wanted to do some animal camo.   The Mud is stuff from an art store called Ink Sticks. They are made to be ground up (I bought a neat little jar with a metal grater on top that was made for this.) I'm not sure what it was originally made for, but made moist with rubbing alcohol and applied with a sponge, it gets a good clumpy look.  The tracks of the Maus are very atypical for a German tank; from what I've read, the bottom wheels you see here are just rollers; drive comes from the usual rear sprocket and a bunch of additional motors along the track return, all electrically driven.  Unpainted menchen for scale. 
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Oct 29, 2011 19:36
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Cool Maus! They do actually have one in the Kubinka tank museum, so you could have based the camo scheme off that one. Did it come with all the little tank decals or did you buy those separately?
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Oct 29, 2011 21:02
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Ensign Expendable posted:Cool Maus! They do actually have one in the Kubinka tank museum, so you could have based the camo scheme off that one. Did it come with all the little tank decals or did you buy those separately? I think that all the German tanks (or at least most of them) have been repainted with somewhat inaccurate and some downright imaginative paint-schemes. I heard somewhere that some volunteers were trying to give the tanks authentic paintjobs, but I'm not sure if the Museum ok it.
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Oct 29, 2011 21:23
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Really? That's interesting. I haven't heard anything about that. The tan sprayed with green and brown that their Maus has looks pretty authentic to me, although there were some camouflage schemes that were a little more unconventional.
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Oct 29, 2011 21:55
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Ensign Expendable posted:Cool Maus! They do actually have one in the Kubinka tank museum, so you could have based the camo scheme off that one. Did it come with all the little tank decals or did you buy those separately? The decals are from the Dragon kit, as are those two little figures. It even came with some photoetch, though on this version of the Maus that's just for the rear grilles. I also had the urge to do something original after I found people 'sperging out about the 'Octopus' Tiger. Some King Tiger was found with some interesting camo: stripes with circular 'O's inside. And while that's fine, it seemed to me a bit silly that people were getting so excited about more information about this one historical tank and its weird paint job, when you can make whatever paint job you want.
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Oct 29, 2011 22:47
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Tiglath III posted:The Testors/Italeri F19. Think I only Paid £2 for it, but yeah... very rare. There's also a 1/72 scale version IIRC. gently caress. Look at that box. Congrats on that incredible steal, loving Ebay is trying to rip me off to death on it. I also demand that this kit be built post haste. How are the decals holding up after years of neglect in the box? Nebakenezzer posted:I finished my 1/72 Maus, I think it turned out well. Awesome Maus, many a russian tanker would have pissed his pants seeing that big fuckoff yellow metal turtle heading their way.
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Oct 30, 2011 07:40
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Morgenthau posted:gently caress. Look at that box. Decals are surprisingly in great condition, no yellowing or crazing. The box just looks a bit sorry for itself.
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Oct 30, 2011 18:33
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Nebakenezzer posted:The decals are from the Dragon kit, as are those two little figures. It even came with some photoetch, though on this version of the Maus that's just for the rear grilles. Well, they way it worked is that the tanks were painted tan at the factory and shipped wherever, and the rest of the camo was applied on location. In theory, whatever commander ended up getting the tanks could have any camo pattern he wanted applied to them.
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Oct 30, 2011 23:16
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Tiglath III posted:Decals are surprisingly in great condition, no yellowing or crazing. The box just looks a bit sorry for itself. That's great to hear, I was a bit afraid they'd be falling apart after 20 years in the box.
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Oct 31, 2011 08:45
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Well I don't think I'll be buying another Lindberg kit. The directions are poo poo and the fit of all these pieces is just horrible. I'm working on the Captain Kidd kit and looking at the stern, trying to figure out how it's gonna fit right and look nice is killing me.
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Oct 31, 2011 17:05
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Bad instructions can ruin a kit. I had a field kitchen kit from some company in Eastern Europe that doesn't even have a website, and the instructions were printed on a single sheet of paper, and had two steps. That's it, only two. There was a huge mishmash of steps and arrows on it, and no indication of order for anything. Also, although parts were numbered in the instructions, they weren't numbered on the sprue or anywhere else.
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Nov 1, 2011 03:22
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If you're badass enough you could try winging it, or you can try searching the net to check out if there any guides or fixes. Someone's bound to have bought the same kit and had the same problems somewhere.
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Nov 1, 2011 04:59
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There's a build log for that one here. Looks like he had similar problems.
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Nov 1, 2011 13:58
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Zvezda Volkssturm. Quite a unique kit. There aren't a lot of Volkssturm kits out there at all; I think this is the first time I've ever seen a Volkssturmgewehr model.  
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Nov 2, 2011 02:51
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Quick question. I've been using tamiya TS spray cans for the last 2 of my models. I was spraying my latest one today with a different colour and its come out drat glossy compared to the last two. Is there any way to dull it down a bit, or will drybrushing do that? I don't understand why this one is so shiny, I used a different primer (whatever grey primer i found in the garage)instead of the grey fine tamiya one. This wouldn't have caused it would it?
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Nov 7, 2011 16:42
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Without knowing the primers and the colour spray you used the best answer I can give you is "I dunno, maybe?". Try it out again on some spare cardboard or something.
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Nov 7, 2011 17:07
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After a 20 year break, I decided to get back into doing models. As a nerdy teenager, I liked building airplanes and painting pewter Dungeons and Dragons figures. As a nerdy adult manchild, I recently ordered a handful of Warhammer figures and vehicles from Games Workshop. I have no desire to play WH, but I thought it would be fun to paint up some of the miniatures. I was sorely disappointed when I got them and found out how terrible the quality was. I scrapped that idea and decided to work on some planes and ordered the 1:48 scale Hasegawa P-51D Mustang and F-104C Starfighter. I'm building the P51 first and am impressed with the quality and detail, but am running into a few problems I'd like some help with. I'm using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It seems like a pretty good glue, but it dries way to fast. The problem is that it is so thin, that it dries up before I get a chance to put the pieces together. Is there a comparable thin cement that has a slower drying time? Earlier in this thread, we talked about a method for detailing aircraft instrument panels using a combination of enamels and lacquers. I can get Gunze lacquers from spruebrothers.com easy enough but am having a difficult time finding enamels. The guy in the linked article uses Tamiya enamels, but the best (and only) online source in the US that I have found is to get them from Tamiya-model.com at $5.58 each. The only other option I have found is Testor's Model Master Enamels for $2.99 each from spruebrothers. The Testor's route seems like the best bet at the moment, but I'd like to know if anybody has any other suggestions for enamel paints (not spray cans). Over the weekend, I finished the cockpit and other interior stuff on the P-51 and glued the two halves of the body together. I ended up with some offset seams and gaps because I did a lovely job of clamping it. I used clothespins and rubber bands, but still ended up with some gaps and parts that weren't aligned right. I can fix those problems with CA glue, putty, files, and a lot of sanding and polishing, but I would like to avoid all that in the future by learning how to clamp it better during the glue up. There were areas where rubber bands, clothes pins, or masking tape just weren't going to cut it, so I'd appreciate it if anybody has some other suggestions for clamping during glueup. All this sanding to repair my lovely glue up job is going to wipe out some of the panel lines. I've been using an X-Acto knife with a broken tip to rescribe them, but it isn't going so well. Can anybody recommend a better tool for scribing panel lines?
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Nov 7, 2011 19:56
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Arquinsiel posted:Without knowing the primers and the colour spray you used the best answer I can give you is "I dunno, maybe?". Try it out again on some spare cardboard or something. Its tamiya British green its from the same range as the dark yellow and olive drab i also have so i assumed it would be matte as well. its glossy on cardboard too ack. Anything i can do to dull it down?
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Nov 7, 2011 21:06
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Dry brushing or washing it with flat black should work, if you don't want to buy flat finish.
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Nov 7, 2011 21:23
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SkunkDuster, are they actually lovely quality moulds/casts or do you just not like the models in hand? There are options either way.warcake posted:Its tamiya British green its from the same range as the dark yellow and olive drab i also have so i assumed it would be matte as well. its glossy on cardboard too ack.
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Nov 7, 2011 21:30
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Ensign Expendable posted:Dry brushing or washing it with flat black should work, if you don't want to buy flat finish. Thanks I'll give that a go 
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Nov 8, 2011 09:50
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It seems like a pretty good glue, but it dries way to fast. The problem is that it is so thin, that it dries up before I get a chance to put the pieces together. Is there a comparable thin cement that has a slower drying time? If I remember right the trick to using this stuff is not to use it like you would with gel type cement i.e. stuff like this, where you'd put it on one half, then marry up the joining piece. You can't do that with the thinner, liquid stuff though as it dries too quickly as it's a slightly different product to be used in a different way. The thin liquid type melts the plastic together rather than just cementing it together like the gel type does. Instead try using capillary action to use it to basically weld the joints. So for example fit your fuselage together, then leaving a tiny gap between the pieces, put the glue in the seam with the brush. You should see it draw itself along the seam, quickly repeat until it's all glued then close the seam. With any luck you'll get a small 'weld line' of molten plastic that'll ooze out the seam that you can sand off, leaving you without too much to fill. Some hints here
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Nov 8, 2011 11:25
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Arquinsiel posted:SkunkDuster, are they actually lovely quality moulds/casts or do you just not like the models in hand? There are options either way. The casting isn't bad. I just think that GW miniatures are severely lacking in detail for the high prices they charge. I had a big post written up describing what I don't like about them, but this thread is about military scale models and I don't want to derail it with a discussion about GW miniatures. 28 Gun Bad Boy posted:So for example fit your fuselage together, then leaving a tiny gap between the pieces, put the glue in the seam with the brush. You should see it draw itself along the seam, quickly repeat until it's all glued then close the seam. That sounds like very good advice. I was using it like tube glue, but the method you mentioned makes a lot more sense. 28 Gun Bad Boy posted:Some hints here This is awesome, thank you! It's a little too late for my poor P-51, but I have an F-104C Starfighter on deck and I think that one will go together a lot better with that information in hand. If I get some confidence after finishing these two models, I'm going to move on to the Hasegawa 1:48 F-15 Eagle, F/A-18 Hornet, or AH-64 Apache. If not, maybe something easier like a F6F Hellcat or F4U Corsair is in my future.
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Nov 8, 2011 17:53
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Write about how <other brand> are better then :p
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Nov 8, 2011 20:07
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SkunkDuster posted:This is awesome, thank you! It's a little too late for my poor P-51, but I have an F-104C Starfighter on deck and I think that one will go together a lot better with that information in hand. If I get some confidence after finishing these two models, I'm going to move on to the Hasegawa 1:48 F-15 Eagle, F/A-18 Hornet, or AH-64 Apache. If not, maybe something easier like a F6F Hellcat or F4U Corsair is in my future. Your first one will always look like hell, and as you improve you'll always see thing you could have done better. Learn on a couple of cheapies, then euthanize them and build something nicer.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:16
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I've not added anything to this thread yet.... so here goes a couple of Tamiya bikes.  
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Nov 8, 2011 21:12
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Cool bikes. What scale are they in?
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Nov 8, 2011 21:37
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All 1/12, if you haven't tried them, give them a go approximately 6 1/2 inches per bike and all highly detailed. Cheers
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Nov 8, 2011 23:50
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Tiglath III posted:I've not added anything to this thread yet.... so here goes a couple of Tamiya bikes. Nice work. I've got 4 or 5 of those built with 1 or 2 more waiting. They really are great kits.
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Nov 9, 2011 17:03
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SkunkDuster posted:The casting isn't bad. I just think that GW miniatures are severely lacking in detail for the high prices they charge. I had a big post written up describing what I don't like about them, but this thread is about military scale models and I don't want to derail it with a discussion about GW miniatures. Well, I find it a bit unfair to compare GW to "real" model kits, as the GW kits have to be durable enough for people to lug them around between games, push them back and forth a lot, mayby place heavy pewter miniatures on them, etc. If you did this to a normal model kit, it would break into pieces rather quickly due to the fine details. They simply aim at doing different things, so I think that complaining that a kit that is supposed to survive a 12 year old shoving it across a table while shouting PEWPEWPEW is not detailed enough is a bit unfair. Those motorcycle kits are plain awesome though, when I browsed across the page I didn't realize they were kits at first.
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Nov 12, 2011 10:19
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I don't know much about historical models since I mostly paint Warhammer and the like, but I'd really like to build and paint a Messerschmitt Me-163 Komet rocket plane. Some quick googling shows that every company I could think of makes them (Tamiya, Testors, etc). What historicals/model plane company has the right combination of detail, scale, quality and price?
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Nov 12, 2011 18:46
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The Blue Pyramid posted:I don't know much about historical models since I mostly paint Warhammer and the like, but I'd really like to build and paint a Messerschmitt Me-163 Komet rocket plane. Some quick googling shows that every company I could think of makes them (Tamiya, Testors, etc). What historicals/model plane company has the right combination of detail, scale, quality and price? I think around here, going Japanese is the safe bet. I don't know if you had your heart set on a specific scale, but in the normal scales Tamiya/Hasegwasa are the best, usually. e: I mean did you see those Tamiya bikes? Goddamn.
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Nov 12, 2011 18:58
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Nebakenezzer posted:I think around here, going Japanese is the safe bet. I don't know if you had your heart set on a specific scale, but in the normal scales Tamiya/Hasegwasa are the best, usually. Those are some amazing looking bikes, so that narrows down the search a bit. As for scale, exactly how big are 1/48, 1/72 and 1/100, in terms of wingspan? I've never had to choose between scales before, so I don't know what the sizes are like.
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Nov 12, 2011 20:55
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The Blue Pyramid posted:Those are some amazing looking bikes, so that narrows down the search a bit. As for scale, exactly how big are 1/48, 1/72 and 1/100, in terms of wingspan? I've never had to choose between scales before, so I don't know what the sizes are like. The plane has a wingspan of 933 cm. So in 1/48 that is 19.4 cm. In 1/72 it is 12.9 cm. And in 1/100 it is 9.33 cm. Metric system, muthafuckas, do you speak it? 
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Nov 12, 2011 21:51
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The Blue Pyramid posted:I don't know much about historical models since I mostly paint Warhammer and the like, but I'd really like to build and paint a Messerschmitt Me-163 Komet rocket plane. Some quick googling shows that every company I could think of makes them (Tamiya, Testors, etc). What historicals/model plane company has the right combination of detail, scale, quality and price? For an ME-163 a cheap and fairly cheerful option is the Revell version, if you can find one, its been released a couple of times. Its fairly accurate and builds up nicely. I have one part done.... really need to finish it.
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Nov 12, 2011 22:30
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I made a 1:35 Tamiya Panzer IV Ausf D. It was really cheap, but partially assembled, and didn't come with instructions. Thankfully, I managed to figure it out on my own.  And here is the crew. They looked sort of awkward without being able to hold onto the hatches (which were already glued shut), so I gave them some ammo boxes to carry. 
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Nov 13, 2011 00:24
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