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Ditto. Cherokee with a six, or 4Runner with a 4.
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Oct 26, 2011 16:51
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Any good shock recommendations for a 92 F350 4x4? There are some old rear end rusty rough country shocks on it and are begging to be replaced. Oh and n'thing a Cherokee with a 6, but 4Runners are stupid reliable with a 4 banger.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:44
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Any good shock recommendations for a 92 F350 4x4? There are some old rear end rusty rough country shocks on it and are begging to be replaced. You can't go wrong with a set of Bilsteins. I run them on my '87 4Runner Turbo (5125s) and my '11 Mustang GT.
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Oct 27, 2011 00:00
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Any good shock recommendations for a 92 F350 4x4? There are some old rear end rusty rough country shocks on it and are begging to be replaced. Does it have the softer "off road" suspension, or the heavier springs? I find that the Bilstiens and Rancho RSXes I tried on my current F-150 off road package as well as my former F250 ORP to kinda feel like sloppy messes, and Rancho RS5000s fit the bill. Anything else I've been in with RS5000s was pretty terrible.
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Oct 27, 2011 01:40
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I don't think so. I am pretty sure its just plain "heavy duty" It has overloads in the rear and rides like the axles are welded to the frame. I am going to put on a little better tire and see if that maybe cures some of the ride issue, the current tires are super thick sidewalls, and traction isn't the best. I think I will start by replacing all the bushings and the shocks in front and see how that helps. I know its a 1 ton truck, but it shouldn't be completely uncontrolled. Other than that though, I love this truck.
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Oct 27, 2011 02:03
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I don't think so. I am pretty sure its just plain "heavy duty" It has overloads in the rear and rides like the axles are welded to the frame. Yeah, if it feels like that, do NOT put RS5000s on it. You'll get beaten to death. As optikalus said, Bilsteins are a pretty solid choice. I've been pretty happy with them in general for most trucks.
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Oct 27, 2011 02:06
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Ok, thanks. Never thought I would be a big truck guy, especially coming from an E39 540i... But this thing is a pretty awesome truck. I have found a few places to try to take it off road, so hilarity will ensue when I cant get any axle flex. This truck is all sorts of 
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Oct 27, 2011 05:44
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The PO for my YJ put RS5000s in my Jeep. I tell girls to wear sport bras on trips.
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Oct 27, 2011 21:46
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Met a random H1 owner last night who also had a landrover with a 6.2L Diesel installed out of a HMMWV, really nice setup and decent power considering how much lighter the land rover was.. I'll post pictures next time I'll swing by his shop.
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Oct 29, 2011 07:40
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The 6.2 that you are talking about is the Detroit diesel right? What little research that I did on them makes them look low on power for their displacement. Is the fuel economy very good on them or do they respond will to tuning and forced induction? Or are the thought highly of because they are just very reliable? Maybe they have a great torque curve.
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Oct 29, 2011 08:16
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In the military trucks, they get about 8 MPG.
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Oct 29, 2011 12:30
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Skyssx posted:In the military trucks, they get about 8 MPG. I am interested in why your Landie-owning friend went with the 6.2 rather than a Rover turbodiesel or so on. Concerns with availability of parts, or legislative stuff about emissions etc?
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Oct 29, 2011 12:38
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I once saw a range rover classic with the 6.2 diesel in it. It was truly rubbish. It was a big heavy lump at the front which upset the balance of the vehicle, generated decent torque but otherwise seemed rather gutless. The only non LR diesel I'd consider putting in one is the International 2.8 TGV.
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Oct 29, 2011 18:17
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Colonel K posted:The only non LR diesel I'd consider putting in one is the International 2.8 TGV. The holy grail of Land Rover engines - basically a modified and uprated 300TDi. I'd give my left nut to get one for my Discovery, but seeing as they don't make them any more, they're as rare rocking horse poo poo...
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Oct 30, 2011 00:09
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:The 6.2 that you are talking about is the Detroit diesel right? What little research that I did on them makes them look low on power for their displacement. Is the fuel economy very good on them or do they respond will to tuning and forced induction? Or are the thought highly of because they are just very reliable? Maybe they have a great torque curve. Cheap as dirt, easy to get parts for here in the US. He got a brand new crate 6.2 for around $200 and it's reliable. And really easy to get parts for here in the US. It's a 80's designed diesel, although you can supercharge/turbo charge it but he doesn't have the clearance on the rover. The military dumped the 6.2 and sold truckloads and truckloads of them for pennies on the dollar. A friend of mine purchased a truck load of 6.2L's for $2000 at an auction. I think they're all still sitting in a yard out in Santa Maria waiting for a buyer who will never show up... I'll see if I can get some pictures Tuesday of the Rover. Speaking of pictures here's some from a few trips over the last few weeks: Wheeler Crest, which runs up from the valley near Bishop, CA in the Sierra Nevada's and runs up to around 11-12,000 ft elevation climb at the end of the trail. This is facing south, Mount Tom being the pyramid shaped mountain on the middle left, and Wheeler on the right.     The first 3/4 isn't too hard at all, a nice scenic climb up a few trails until you get cloaser to the peak when it starts getting rocky. At the top there was still snow in a few places in August, with melted snow forming a few small lakes with tons of frogs. There's huge rock gardens at the top left over from glaciers. Also hit up a few old mining roads, visited Bristlecone/Inyo national forest, and ran through a few BLM trails on the Nevada/California border. I stopped there on the way to Yosemite going the back route through 120 from the east. I have more pictures of that stuff but haven't uploaded them yet. Last Saturday we ran up to Mojave to run Last Chance Canyon. Facing southwest a bit towards Edwards AFB  Schmitt Tunnel/Mine. Some crazy miner full spent 30 odd years digging a "toll road to nowhere" by hand before selling it where it became a small tourist attraction for a few decades. It's a half mile long tunnel carved out of solid granite mostly. It's one of the few places the BLM allows folks to walk around although there isn't much chance to get lost at all. That being said, the guy must have had mental issues, 2 years into his project, a road was built to Mojave around the mountain, and there was no need for a tunnel. A tunnel where you had to climb mostly up one side of a mountain and back down the other side makes no sense as a short cut. Strange dude...  Other than that the terrain is mostly canyons with small rock gardens on the western side, with fireroads on the easternside.  JK With H1 wheels and snap on fender flares    The v-notch obstacle, there was 3 groups of off road clubs on the trail that Saturday, but no one ran the v-notch, it's a long stretch of V-shaped rock that has a turn at the end, the profile change there makes it tricky to navigate. To make things even harder, the turn has a dip on one side where a wheel can easily drop down if you don't plan a good line.  Someone broke a window out on v-notch and the ants were taking the glass and running away with it...  Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 30, 2011 |
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Oct 30, 2011 17:55
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Who knows if it makes a good offroader, but drat if you wouldn't feel like a badass driving this around.
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Nov 4, 2011 08:07
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mod sassinator posted:Who knows if it makes a good offroader, but drat if you wouldn't feel like a badass driving this around.  And it has another party trick
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Nov 4, 2011 15:29
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InitialDave posted:And it has another party trick Apart from having only one central differential splitting the drive between left and right sides, and plain old bevel gears everywhere else (causing major transmission windups on anything other than loose surfaces), and fuel consumption in the "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" bracket from its 8.5 litre Rolls Royce petrol engine, it's awesome... On other news, my Disco passed it's MOT, and is now all nice and road-legal again! Only 2 advisories from the test - both front wheel bearings have slight play. Not bad for a 15-year old rust trap  
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Nov 4, 2011 17:41
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For the past few winters I've been dreaming about having a four wheel drive vehicle, mainly after blizzards when my front wheel drive daily driver got stuck in the driveway. This summer, fate brought me a $300 1979 Chevy Cheyenne.  After tearing into the engine we found that the previous owner had spun multiple rod bearings so after some digging around my dad's shop we found a used but serviceable 350 engine, got it cleaned and machined, and threw it in. Current issues: * There is a rusted hole in the floor on the drivers side - floor patch panel and new carpet is in the mail * Bench seat is ripped * U-joint on the drive shaft needs to be replaced * Bad bearings, in general So now I need to scour some junkyards for a new seat. Anything else I should be worried about on a vehicle this old?
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Nov 5, 2011 02:06
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Interrupt posted:Current issues: If that's the extent of your list you are golden. The best part about old stuff is that it is simple and cheap. If something else crops up after this, you're still fine. That's a good truck. Get it out of maintenance debt and you are in good shape (totally on the cheap). You done good.
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Nov 5, 2011 02:39
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Good truck and easy to fix. I almost got the military CUCV version of that truck with the 6.2L Diesel. There's a fair number of rust free ones floating around the south west for 3 grand or so provided you don't mind the carc green paint. Plus they got detroit rear lockers more often that not 
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Nov 5, 2011 03:20
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Ok, so I slapped a set of Bilstiens on. I think it rides even worse. I have to dig the receipt out, but asked for a little softer set to make the ride a little better. Lets just say the lady friend says that she will no longer ride in it because "I think I am going to knock myself out". It feels like the axles are now not only welded, but duct taped and bailing twined to the frame. Like you can feel pebbles rough. I am going to try a set of tires next, that's my last thought. If not, its just a rough riding old truck. But drat it felt good to tow a loaded 20' cargo trailer like it didn't even exist. The neighbor has a 96 F350 with a diesel and his is not nearly as bad. Oh nice find on that Chevy. They are great trucks and parts easy to find. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 22:04
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Try the oe shocks? If it is as bad as you're saying it sounds more like a spring problem than shocks. Perhaps you could try some progressive lighter units. Or you could do a little test by putting a good load of weight in it and seeing if it helps. A friends cherokee with leaf springs in the back was pretty horrible when unloaded, but much better with a decent weight on.
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Nov 6, 2011 02:31
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Lets just say the lady friend says that she will no longer ride in it because "I think I am going to knock myself out". It feels like the axles are now not only welded, but duct taped and bailing twined to the frame. Like you can feel pebbles rough. I am going to try a set of tires next, that's my last thought. If not, its just a rough riding old truck. But drat it felt good to tow a loaded 20' cargo trailer like it didn't even exist. The neighbor has a 96 F350 with a diesel and his is not nearly as bad. Are you driving around with an empty bed? Try throwing 1000lbs of something in the back and see if things smooth out a bit. You could also try dropping the pressure in the tires a bit. Neither solution is going to help the already poor gas mileage.
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Nov 6, 2011 03:11
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I don't know too much about trucks, but if you want a soft comfortable ride on a car, Bilstien isn't really where you wanna go.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 04:00
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Which is odd, because for the 100 series landcruiser, the Pajero and the Prado bilsteins are pretty much the ducks guts for comfort, control and offroad ability!
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Nov 6, 2011 06:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ok, so I slapped a set of Bilstiens on. I think it rides even worse. I have to dig the receipt out, but asked for a little softer set to make the ride a little better. That's how an unloaded F350 rides when it's working properly. The top leaves of the springs are necessarily beastly. The only option is to load it up, or get "off road" springs with a soft top leaf. If you still have someone in your area that re-works spring packs, it shouldn't cost too much if you bring them the springs and ask them to replace the master leaf with something more appropriate to what you want. Typically people who want both a decent unloaded ride and weight carrying capacity go with a smaller spring pack with a less aggressive maser leaf and air bags or similar. But really....it's an older 1 ton truck. It's gonna ride like crap unloaded.
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Nov 6, 2011 16:43
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Well, I swapped the tires out, and it improved the ride a million times. The ones on it are the thick side walled load carrying tires, and the ones I put on are a few plies thinner. Really really helped the ride. Still rides like crap but not so brutal. I figured it would ride like crap for an old truck, but not as bad as it did. Other than that, its a great truck. Again to tow a 20' cargo trailer like it wasn't there was pretty awesome in my opinion. VVV Yes, I went to C's. Its not a huge deal though, during the winter I am not towing a trailer or anything super heavy. Summer on the other hand will involve towing the boat and various home improvement projects, so I will throw the E's back on. Plus the E's are more of a highway tread, and the C's I just put on are more aggressive. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 22:55
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Well, I swapped the tires out, and it improved the ride a million times. The ones on it are the thick side walled load carrying tires, You probably had some E's on there. If you drop to Cs, you can't really carry much of anything that truck was designed for, but it will feel better.
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Nov 6, 2011 23:59
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I doubt it matters in this case, but double-check you're ok to do that. Over here, you're not really allowed to fit tyres that don't meet the speed/load rating for the vehicle. Fails MOT inspection if you're under-specced.
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Nov 7, 2011 00:27
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I am in Iowa, we do not require vehicle inspections. If my math worked out, I will be ok. Again, I don't drive it all the time... but it will only be when it snows, or slick it will be getting used. This truck business is all new to me, coming from a BMW or some form of sport sedan.
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Nov 7, 2011 00:37
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Took the Disco out for its first trial on Sunday - didn't break anything, and managed 3rd in class...   
reddeathdrinker fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 19:20
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Congratulations, how do you find the rear overhang on the disco? When I used to go off road with the range rover the overhang on the back (especially with the tow bar) was often a bit of a nuisance. In other news my 90 made it through its mot ok today. Now I can look forward to the snow.
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Nov 7, 2011 21:07
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Colonel K posted:Congratulations, how do you find the rear overhang on the disco? The overhang isn't too bad - got a fuel tank guard on it, so can just smash it down at the back. Tow bar is on a removable drop plate, doesn't get fitted off-roading! The new winch bumper has killed my approach angle a lot though, but getting a winch has a higher priority than getting up steep banks! Good news on the MOT (mine was last Wednesday!) - I can't wait for the snow too...
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Nov 7, 2011 21:26
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Motronic posted:You probably had some E's on there. If you drop to Cs, you can't really carry much of anything that truck was designed for, but it will feel better. Another option is to run the load range E tires at a lower PSI [which is usually indicated for full GVW loadout]. InitialDave posted:I doubt it matters in this case, but double-check you're ok to do that. Over here, you're not really allowed to fit tyres that don't meet the speed/load rating for the vehicle. Fails MOT inspection if you're under-specced. It'll pass inspection in most places in the US and Canada provided the tires aren't worn. Many places do not perform a vehicle inspection beyond smog testing.
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Nov 8, 2011 07:03
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Geared Hub posted:Another option is to run the load range E tires at a lower PSI [which is usually indicated for full GVW loadout]. New Mexico didn't even have that... 
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Nov 8, 2011 16:49
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Geared Hub posted:Another option is to run the load range E tires at a lower PSI [which is usually indicated for full GVW loadout]. That must be nice; PA has some of the most draconian inspection laws around. Our inspection stations check everything from license plate lights to tire tread to headlight alignment, brake material thickness, wheel bearings and tie rods. It's insane. Luckily my Bronco passed the past 2 years without me having to do anything at all. However, the brake requirement is that they check 2 opposite wheels (minimum), and in August on the Bronco they checked the LF and RR, which were OK but last week the LR shoes came unbonded from the backing, and my father-in-law was driving it. Luckily he's mechanically adept so he is just replacing all the brakes.
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Nov 11, 2011 13:24
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Imperador do Brasil posted:That must be nice; PA has some of the most draconian inspection laws around. Our inspection stations check everything from license plate lights to tire tread to headlight alignment, brake material thickness, wheel bearings and tie rods. It's insane. Making sure all the lights work, don't blind other drivers, that the brakes works, and that the steering and suspension isn't going to cause a loss of control is insane? There are several things you can call stupid in here: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/section_e.pdf But if you can't be arsed to keep your car in at least some minimum amount of repair, I really don't want to be on the same roads as you.
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Nov 11, 2011 15:35
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Motronic posted:Making sure all the lights work, don't blind other drivers, that the brakes works, and that the steering and suspension isn't going to cause a loss of control is insane?... You should see our MOT check then... Every vehicle in the UK gets this check annually (from 3 years old). A basic breakdown is: The body and vehicle structure: Is free from excessive corrosion or damage in specific areas and there are no sharp edges likely to cause injury. The fuel System: Has no leaks and the fuel cap fastens and seals securely. The fuel cap will need to be opened so be sure the key is available. The exhaust emissions: The vehicle meets the requirements for exhaust emissions, dependant on the age and fuel type of the vehicle. The exhaust system: Is secure, complete, without serious leaks and silences effectively. The seat belts: All belts installed are checked for type, condition, operation and security. All compulsory seat belts must be in place. The seats: The front seats are secure. Front and rear backseats can be secured in the upright position. The doors: Latch securely in closed position. Front doors should open from inside and outside the vehicle. Rear doors may need to be opened to gain access to testable items. The mirrors: The minimum numbers are on the vehicle, their condition and security. Load security: Boot or tailgate can be secured in the closed position. The brakes: Their condition, operation and performance (efficiency test). Note the removal of the road wheels is not part of the test. The tyres and wheels: Their condition, security, size, load rating The registration plates: Their condition, security, characters correctly formed and spaced. The lights: Their condition, operation and security. Headlamps for aim. The bonnet: Securely latches in the closed position. The wipers and washers: Operate to give the driver a clear view ahead. The windscreen: Its condition and the driver’s view of the road. The horn: Operates correctly and is of a suitable type. The steering and suspension: Are of a satisfactory condition and operation. The vehicle identification number (VIN): Is on vehicles first used on or after 1 August 1980. Not more than one different VIN is displayed except on multistage build vehicles.
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Nov 11, 2011 16:48
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reddeathdrinker posted:You should see our MOT check then... Oh, I'm aware. Which is the point I'm trying to make about PA inspection being drat near what I would consider a "bare minimum" if you're going to bother having inspection at all.
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Nov 11, 2011 16:56
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