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we use a moroso pan and pickup on the race car but it severely limits the headers and manifolds you can use. These guys have a pretty good one: http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/OptimalOilPan.htm
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Nov 8, 2011 23:40
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I'm noticing that transmission tables seem to indicate the 02-05 USDM WRX is a 3.9 final drive, but some people are mentioning that the WRX rear differential is 3.54 because there's a 1.1:1 stepdown before the driveshaft. I'm not able to find anyone having trouble swapping USDM WRX transmissions into a GC/GF, so I'm assuming that a 3.9 final drive WRX transmission is the same as my 3.9 final drive Outback Sport transmission (same stepdown) and everything will work fine with my existing driveshaft and rear differential. Is that the case, or will I have to replace those items to use a USDM WRX transmission/front diff/centre diff? Oddly it seems easier to find a WRX transmission than an Impreza one. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Nov 10, 2011 |
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Nov 10, 2011 04:52
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I think you need to change the rear diff too.
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Nov 10, 2011 06:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Oddly it seems easier to find a WRX transmission than an Impreza one. Which car crashes more often to supply the parts market?
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Nov 10, 2011 06:30
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Sockington posted:Which car crashes more often to supply the parts market? Weren't WRXes like 60-70% of overall Impreza sales in the U.S. as well?
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Nov 10, 2011 10:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm noticing that transmission tables seem to indicate the 02-05 USDM WRX is a 3.9 final drive, but some people are mentioning that the WRX rear differential is 3.54 because there's a 1.1:1 stepdown before the driveshaft. You will need a wrx diff.
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Nov 10, 2011 12:54
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Some SVXs and 5eat cars also have 3.54 rear ends.
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Nov 11, 2011 05:14
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So...some asshat stole the 4th winter tire out of my garage last week. How possible is it to get a 4th similar tire from Tirerack and have it shaved down, or am I hosed and need to pick up a new set of 4 to deal with my AWD? Keep in mind I spent about 2k miles on it last year. loving hell.
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Nov 12, 2011 00:02
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So my 08 STI is in the shop again, has been for about two and half weeks now. This time it's the transmission. It had stopped going into 3rd gear but was otherwise feeling fine so I just skipped 3rd for a few days until I got a chance to take it in. On the day I was going to take it in I accidentally tried to shift into third out of habi,t and it started making a horrible grinding/whining noise when the car was in motion. I pulled over immediately and had it towed to the dealer. They ordered some part for the transmission but after installation it was still making the noise so they have now ordered and received a new "main shaft." It was supposed to be installed and I was supposed to get it back today, but according to their latest report it "isn't going in easily" and they may have to order another part. Is my car just totally hosed or just cursed? It's on its third engine, second AC unit, and now they're having to rebuild most of the transmission, luckily it's still under warranty and all of these repairs have been at no cost to me. If I had to pay for all of the repairs they've done it would probably total more than I paid for the car. The warranty runs out in a week or so but the powertrain warranty is good to 60k miles. I'm thinking I'll keep it another two years until I have it paid off then dump it for something else even though I really love the car. I just had to write this down somewhere as it's really got me bummed.
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Nov 12, 2011 01:39
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That is insane, I would have traded that death trap in long ago.
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Nov 12, 2011 03:08
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Lazor posted:So my 08 STI is in the shop again, has been for about two and half weeks now. This time it's the transmission. It had stopped going into 3rd gear but was otherwise feeling fine so I just skipped 3rd for a few days until I got a chance to take it in. On the day I was going to take it in I accidentally tried to shift into third out of habi,t and it started making a horrible grinding/whining noise when the car was in motion. I pulled over immediately and had it towed to the dealer. They ordered some part for the transmission but after installation it was still making the noise so they have now ordered and received a new "main shaft." It was supposed to be installed and I was supposed to get it back today, but according to their latest report it "isn't going in easily" and they may have to order another part. Look into lemon laws.
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Nov 12, 2011 03:14
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So I installed a boost gauge etc etc and now I look at the install and am second guessing the BPV line tap. I bought a bronze T barb for the tap. It rests against the intake manifold. Is that a problem? Pics...  
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Nov 12, 2011 03:58
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Lazor posted:So my 08 STI is in the shop again, has been for about two and half weeks now. This time it's the transmission. It had stopped going into 3rd gear but was otherwise feeling fine so I just skipped 3rd for a few days until I got a chance to take it in. On the day I was going to take it in I accidentally tried to shift into third out of habi,t and it started making a horrible grinding/whining noise when the car was in motion. I pulled over immediately and had it towed to the dealer. They ordered some part for the transmission but after installation it was still making the noise so they have now ordered and received a new "main shaft." It was supposed to be installed and I was supposed to get it back today, but according to their latest report it "isn't going in easily" and they may have to order another part. A Exorist required
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Nov 12, 2011 04:01
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I bought this thing at an auction today.  It's not an STI, just a regular wrx in drag. Not quite sure what i'm going to do with it yet, might just use it as a ricey winter beater. I haven't checked it out too closely yet, but it has a greddy turbo and apexi turbo timer, but still doesn't seem to have the go it should. On the plus side, the transmission still has all it's gears and there doesn't seem to be any leaks.
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Nov 12, 2011 23:54
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Take it to Airboy Tuning in Calgary; he knows his stuff regarding de-ricing and doing a good open source tune on a 4WD dyno. Looks like you may also have a front mount unless the bumper is much thinner on the blobeyes. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Nov 13, 2011 |
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Nov 13, 2011 01:16
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So I installed a boost gauge etc etc and now I look at the install and am second guessing the BPV line tap. I bought a bronze T barb for the tap. It rests against the intake manifold. Is that a problem? Pics... No reason I can think of that having the brass part rest against your intake should be a problem, other than that the engine jumping around a bit might push things. The intake shouldn't get hotter than most other parts in that area. That's how I was thinking of doing it, so I'll be curious to hear what other folks say about it. If you're worried, you could ziptie a spacer of some sort to the intake to keep it from touching/push it away from the engine a bit.
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Nov 13, 2011 02:22
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I would get that thing tuned or return it to near-stock and flash it with the right map before driving it too much.
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Nov 13, 2011 03:23
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Powershift posted:I bought this thing at an auction today. What looks to be a heavily modded WRX from auction?  I wish you the best but a preemptive may God have mercy on your soul.
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Nov 13, 2011 03:39
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Maybe I like to live dangerously, maybe i'm just dumb. Either way it should be interesting.
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Nov 13, 2011 03:54
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Powershift posted:Maybe I like to live dangerously, maybe i'm just dumb. Either way it should be interesting. Either way you should drive that thing hard and into the ground. Just be prepared for it to break your heart (and bank).
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Nov 13, 2011 04:03
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Powershift posted:apexi turbo timer Get rid of that quick - makes your car an easy target for theft. And, in my understanding, you really don't need it if you have a turbo that's water cooled (I don't know if the GReddy is, but I would assume so).
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Nov 13, 2011 04:55
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Crack in my transmission case. Awesome.
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Nov 13, 2011 19:14
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I just ordered D-specs and Group N strut mounts to match up to the STi springs I bought off jamal. My lovely RS is getting too much cool stuff.
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Nov 14, 2011 00:01
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don't forget the scooby921 spacers
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Nov 14, 2011 00:14
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jamal posted:don't forget the scooby921 spacers I got the full package. Spacers, adjustment extenders, group N mounts, saggy butt shims just in case (I can resell them to the ding dongs around here if I don't need them). Car has 145k miles. I bought it with 78k miles. The struts and springs are the same as I bought it, and horribly horribly abused. This should be a good upgrade until I cage the car and buy rally coilovers years down the line.
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Nov 14, 2011 00:22
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Decided to finally swap winters on today, after having a fun afternoon with summer tyres and a tiny amount of slush. Took the car in to a nearby shop, and was happy when they told me it would be done in quick fashion. An hour later, they called, and asked if I had another key for the car?  So I went down to the shop, where lo and behold, the key just will not turn the ignition, at all. It still works in the doors just fine, but the ignition cylinder has decided that it's fed up. They were nice enough to lend me their shop truck until they get a new cylinder in tomorrow, but how common is this sort of thing?
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Nov 14, 2011 03:01
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This is probably a boring/generic question, but what the hell. I've been looking at getting a new vehicle for the last few months, and have become increasingly interested in a small SUV, and the Forester looks like it's the best fit for what I need. Basically, something with a moderate amount of cargo room, reliable, good in snow/bad weather, and not terrible gas mileage. Buying used as I'm not Mr. Moneybags. So I may be going to look at a 2004 Forester XS next week. It's automatic, 64k, the non-turbo version. Still waiting on specifics from the seller. What specifically should I be looking out for with that model and year? LogisticEarth fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 03:17
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Simkin posted:Decided to finally swap winters on today, after having a fun afternoon with summer tyres and a tiny amount of slush. Took the car in to a nearby shop, and was happy when they told me it would be done in quick fashion. An hour later, they called, and asked if I had another key for the car? How old is the car? I've heard of stories of people wearing out their keys.
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Nov 14, 2011 04:01
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Simkin posted:Decided to finally swap winters on today, after having a fun afternoon with summer tyres and a tiny amount of slush. Took the car in to a nearby shop, and was happy when they told me it would be done in quick fashion. An hour later, they called, and asked if I had another key for the car?
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Nov 14, 2011 05:57
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I am putting together a motor for the sti to max out the 6262 on e85, and need a machine shop that has some real EJ experience. local ish to AZ would be prefered, but I have bunch of money in the hard parts and don't want a lovely machinist to mess it up. I already have a complete built set of big cnc ported heads so I am really just looking for block work. Currently I have: darton sleeved 2.6l block manley billet crank turbo tuff rods cp 102mm pistons arp case bolts I would like to shuffle pin the mains and maybe pin and o-ring the sleeves and heads so a shop with porsche or aircooled exp would be nice, but I have to at least have to have the cases and deck cleaned since it spun a rod bearing on the 08 crank, aligned honed and spec the bearings for the new billet crank and balance everything for high rpm. so, who is the best?
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Nov 14, 2011 06:38
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02 WRX, two small house keys on the ring with the car key. It probably didn't help that it was a third party key and not an official one - one of those other things that I can thank the PO for.
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Nov 14, 2011 06:44
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I'll ask some of my AZ friends and you could stop by Snail Performance. In socal there's performance developments, which does happen to do porsche stuff and Race Engine Developments which does the blocks for FXMD and AFI turbo.
jamal fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 06:52
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Holdbrooks posted:since it spun a rod bearing on the 08 crank when did that happen?
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Nov 14, 2011 06:55
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ickna posted:when did that happen? no mine is still fine, I just bought another motor. I want to build it on the stand and drop it in one weekend.
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Nov 14, 2011 07:08
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Simkin posted:02 WRX, two small house keys on the ring with the car key. It probably didn't help that it was a third party key and not an official one - one of those other things that I can thank the PO for. auto or manual?
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Nov 14, 2011 07:22
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jamal posted:we use a moroso pan and pickup on the race car but it severely limits the headers and manifolds you can use. These guys have a pretty good one: One thing I've noted is the 06 has what looks to be not bad baffling as standard and I've certainly heard it's a good deal better than earlier sumps. Be interesting to see any differences Okay chaps, got a interesting question on the rebuild. I have the EJ257 to be delivered tomorrow and I intend to put the MY06 heads on it, which I know works. HOWEVER this will push the compression ratio up to 8.7ish:1 verses the stock WRX 8.4:1. That doesnt sound like a bad idea IF I leave everything standard, I'd have better off boost performance and a slightly higher effective dynamic compression. Remeber,on this engine I have no intention of pushing big boost or doing real mods - it will get a right caning. Sounding like a good idea and actually being one are two different things and unlike suspensions this isnt an easy reverse. Would the stock ECU handle this? Also - and this is I know a WTF - I do like the idea of a well designed turbo back exhaust that properly seperates and flows the wastegate from the main exhaust. A full TBE is in no way legal in my neck of the woods so what I was thinking of is to replace the downpipe with a better flowing one but leave the rest of the exhaust standard so I hide what I've done. It does sound like a waste of time for not much but not much is what I have to play with. Ideas?
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Nov 14, 2011 12:09
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3" downpipe to stock midpipe/catback is like, one of the most common mods of all time. I have this: http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=224
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Nov 14, 2011 12:37
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Cat Terrist posted:Sounding like a good idea and actually being one are two different things and unlike suspensions this isnt an easy reverse. Would the stock ECU handle this? During the tuning process just stay away from detonation (as always) and you should be fine. Note that if your MY06 WRX heads are the same as my WRX heads you'll probably get much better exhaust flow (particularly out of the rear two exhaust ports) with the STI heads. I wouldn't worry about it too much, though, since I seem to remember STI heads are expensive as hell. quote:Also - and this is I know a WTF - I do like the idea of a well designed turbo back exhaust that properly seperates and flows the wastegate from the main exhaust. A full TBE is in no way legal in my neck of the woods so what I was thinking of is to replace the downpipe with a better flowing one but leave the rest of the exhaust standard so I hide what I've done. It does sound like a waste of time for not much but not much is what I have to play with. Ideas?
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Nov 14, 2011 15:54
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Cat Terrist posted:Also - and this is I know a WTF - I do like the idea of a well designed turbo back exhaust that properly seperates and flows the wastegate from the main exhaust. A full TBE is in no way legal in my neck of the woods so what I was thinking of is to replace the downpipe with a better flowing one but leave the rest of the exhaust standard so I hide what I've done. It does sound like a waste of time for not much but not much is what I have to play with. Ideas? Note that I have a legacy and the internet claims its exhaust flows better than a wrxes.
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Nov 14, 2011 16:39
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| # ? May 21, 2024 00:17 |
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Any idea why my check engine light would pop up during 'hard' or highway driving? The dealer just asks me about the gas cap and unplugs the battery to reset. Though it does seem to occur shortly after I get gas, it's always while driving at higher speeds and I know how to put on a freakin' gas cap. If it is cap related, I'm thinking an internal seal (cap seal looks fine) is leaky. Because it's a dealer, I don't know the actual error code. 2008 Forester XT - 5 speed
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Nov 14, 2011 17:36
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