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Do any of you know of a mechanic in northern CA/the bay area that works on VW TDI's? My timing is out and I need it corrected but I don't have the proper vag-com setup to take care of the job. cheap e-bay obd2 cable ahoy!
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Nov 5, 2011 18:36
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Checking into this thread with a 2010 S4. It's a Brilliant Black, S-Tronic Prestige and I had just finished having the windows tinted and putting on the winter shoes before taking the picture. I love it so far and am just starting to put together a list of mods for the next year or two.
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Nov 5, 2011 20:04
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Jymmybob posted:Nice car. Terrible wheels (even for Winter use). What is the deal with Audi randomly putting "T" badges on supercharged cars?
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Nov 5, 2011 20:55
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Is it a bad idea to drive an S4 in the winter?
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Nov 5, 2011 23:32
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DerDestroyer posted:Is it a bad idea to drive an S4 in the winter? The B8s come with summer tires, so it's a bad idea to drive one in the winter on the original rubber. If you put snow tires on it, you're good year round. That's the whole point of quattro.
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Nov 6, 2011 00:57
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Zorak of Michigan posted:The B8s come with summer tires, so it's a bad idea to drive one in the winter on the original rubber. If you put snow tires on it, you're good year round. That's the whole point of quattro. What brand of snow tires would be best on it?
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Nov 6, 2011 01:25
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Depends on where you live and what the road conditions are. Most of the big brands have a couple of options. Performance winter tires will give you better dry grip, on the opposite end, studded tires have excellent ice grip, but are loud and don't handle the best when its dry. It may be illegal to have studded tires where you are as well.
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Nov 6, 2011 01:30
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keykey posted:Do any of you know of a mechanic in northern CA/the bay area that works on VW TDI's? My timing is out and I need it corrected but I don't have the proper vag-com setup to take care of the job. cheap e-bay obd2 cable ahoy! Check out this list for someone close to you. These guys are approved by the tdiclub.
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Nov 6, 2011 01:57
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DerDestroyer posted:What brand of snow tires would be best on it? I used Michelins on my Subaru WRX and really liked them, so I'm going with Michelin Pilot Alpin PA-3s. I'm going to wait another week or two to order them just in case we get a burst of warm weather.
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Nov 6, 2011 04:44
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Billy Tully posted:Check out this list for someone close to you. These guys are approved by the tdiclub. Thank you, that's exactly what I needed! 
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Nov 6, 2011 08:08
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I am looking at buying a pretty serious b5 s4. Stage 3 with nitrous. It's still on the stock bottom end and when I asked about the rods the owner replied that the engine was out of a 2002 a6 2.7t, and that it had different rods that year which are stronger. Can anyone confirm this?
Sound fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 08:34
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I want to buy this car: http://tinyurl.com/d4ll88l (2005 Audi S4) I think they're asking too much. I went to the dealership and they said that they lowered the price to 20K. KBB is 18.1K, other cars on the bay are going for around that, or a bit more. There's nothing wrong with the car and it's only got 60K miles, full maintenance history, but it's been sitting on the lot since March. What should I offer them?
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Nov 7, 2011 05:32
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I'd offer 17 and very slowly work my way up. If they come down $500 then you go up $200 etc. You never know what might happen. They could be desperate to get rid of it by now. The salesman might be hurting for a sale and willing to take less of a commission to sell anything.
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Nov 7, 2011 07:20
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DerDestroyer posted:What brand of snow tires would be best on it? We got hammered with close to a foot of snow last week and I'm riding on my 235/35/19 Continental DWS which is basically a snow capable all season (Dry Wet Snow) and I had 0 issues running around in the unplowed stuff or snowpack. Just something to consider if you don't make frequent runs up to the mountains. Decided not to go with a dedicated snow since about 80% of the season the road gets plowed then melts off.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:14
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If you have weather of < -10c (~15 fahrenheit) often during the winter then you definitely want proper winter tires. That's the real issue at play -- what winter temperatures you're likely to encounter. Below that your all-seasons aren't going to grip sufficiently.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:40
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DerDestroyer posted:What brand of snow tires would be best on it? It doesn't matter. The worst snow tires will be MUCH better than the best all-season tire. So much so that there's really no comparison. If you're in a part of the world where you are wondering about snow tires, then buy by price. If you're somewhere that will allow you to analyze the fine points of different snow tires' performance, then you're in some crazy Finnish-like country and already know about brands/models.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:49
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el topo posted:If you have weather of < -10c (~15 fahrenheit) often during the winter then you definitely want proper winter tires. That's the real issue at play -- what winter temperatures you're likely to encounter. Below that your all-seasons aren't going to grip sufficiently. That's the good thing about Colorado, it rarely drops to temps that low.
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Nov 8, 2011 22:30
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That's the terrible thing about Minnesota, it rarely goes to temps that high.
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Nov 8, 2011 23:17
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veedubfreak posted:We got hammered with close to a foot of snow last week and I'm riding on my 235/35/19 Continental DWS which is basically a snow capable all season (Dry Wet Snow) and I had 0 issues running around in the unplowed stuff or snowpack. Just something to consider if you don't make frequent runs up to the mountains. Decided not to go with a dedicated snow since about 80% of the season the road gets plowed then melts off. I would agree that the DWS does OK in snow and slush. I have mine on right now. Ice is an issue, but will be for most everything except studded tires (which is what I'm going to change over to in about 5 minutes...). /\/\/\ I run Nokian Hakkepeliita 5's which have amazing grip on everything but pavement, but are noisy as hell and not too cheap. I live in Saskatchewan, so it would be a similar if not colder climate than Minnesota. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Nov 9, 2011 |
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Nov 9, 2011 00:35
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meatpimp posted:Nice car. Terrible wheels (even for Winter use).  But seriously they don't look so much like Dodge Charger knockoffs in person and there's a very limited choice of black with silver accent wheels that don't have the generic machined lip. I agree they're polarizing but I'm happy with the result considering that every other person puts on wheels with as many tiny spokes as they can find. I'm more from the school of thought that AMG Monoblocks are the pinnacle of wheel design. No one knows why they put the V6T badges on S4s yet puts supercharged badges on new A6s with the same engine. The worst part is how lazy the V6T badge itself looks compared to the supercharged badge which looks almost exactly like a modified S4 badge. On topic: I've used Dunlop Wintersport M3 and 3Ds and have been very happy with them. This time I went for Michelin Alpin PA3s for the S4 and I really like them so far. It's only been cold and occasionally rainy here so far but they've been more comfortable riding (18" vs 19" though) and every bit as grippy as Pilot Sport 3s they replaced.
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Nov 9, 2011 21:10
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Jymmybob posted:
Didn't they fix this on 2011+ model years? In any case one of the first things I did was take of the V6T badge and put on the Supercharged one.
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Nov 9, 2011 22:50
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Jymmybob posted:
V6T = V6 TFSI. And the general assumption is that the marketing people didn't expect the backlash they got ("T is supposed to mean turbo!!"). Another item of evidence is that the Germans would usually put "K" for Kompressor if they were meaning to advertise the presence of a supercharger. In any case, the 2011+ S4 receives and even some late 2010 S4 did receive the "Supercharged" badging. Regardless of which badge you got, you need to remove it to make the car look more classy. After I took the badge off:  For the guy asking about snow and winter tires. I have had good luck so far with Bridgestone Blizzak LM60 in the original spec 19x8.5.
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Nov 10, 2011 02:01
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I noticed almost every S4 owner gets it in black. Is that the normal black or the pearl black? I heard the moonlight blue colour is nice but I haven't been able to get a good look at one with it.
DerDestroyer fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Nov 10, 2011 |
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Nov 10, 2011 04:02
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DerDestroyer posted:I noticed almost every S4 owner gets it in black. Is that the normal black or the pearl black? I heard the moonlight blue colour is nice but I haven't been able to get a good look at one with it. Mine is Phantom Black (pearl) which I think hides imperfections better than Brilliant Black, the Deep Sea Blue/ Moonlight is a cool color because it looks almost black under most conditions but in direct sunlight shows a blue tint.
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Nov 10, 2011 07:37
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How often do problems show up on the S-Tronic transmissions? I'm hearing all kinds of horror stories about VW's DSG on stuff like the Golf which is a shame since I want a car with a DSG on it since I like it's performance characteristics. Not sure it's worth the hard shifting bugs and other unpredictable issues though.
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Nov 10, 2011 07:59
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SwashedBuckles posted:Didn't they fix this on 2011+ model years? In any case one of the first things I did was take of the V6T badge and put on the Supercharged one. I don't know if it's a regional thing, but all the 2012s in my area still have V6T badging. I didn't remember seeing supercharged badging when I was planning to order so I just checked and all the local dealer inventory photos show the old badging too. When I finally get around to running down to ECS Tuning, which conveniently is about 10 minutes away, I'm going to swap to the supercharged badge. I haven't heard too many S4 DCT problems beyond the occasional mechatronics unit being replaced and Audi seems confident enough in it that they're discontinuing the 6M in Europe in favor of the DCT. The S4 uses a newer longitudinal model compared the the transverse series that the Golf and other similar models have.
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Nov 10, 2011 14:09
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Supercharged badging was once an option on the S4, but they dropped it. Now you have to source and install your own badges, though in my case the dealer was happy to do it without charge. I went with brilliant black because I like black cars and I had no intention of paying $500 more for fancier black. I very nearly went with the moonlight blue, but I had a moment of doubt and decided to go with what I know. Now that the S4 is in my garage, I have no regrets.
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Nov 10, 2011 16:13
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Blakkout posted:That's the terrible thing about Minnesota, it rarely goes to temps that high. It got up to 68 today and is supposed to be in the 70s over the weekend
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Nov 10, 2011 23:03
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The clutch died on my '97 Jetta (Trek edition) and I got a loan for a new VW so I need to get rid of the old one. If I put it on craigslist as a parts/repair car how much should I ask for? Everything else about it is fine but I don't want to pay $200 to fix it then have something else go that I don't have the skills to fix. If anyone of you near Dorchester, MA wants to give me a few bills for it I'd be down. If not I want to get as much as I can from CL. RIP Volkswagen. I'll miss you, little buddy 
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Nov 13, 2011 00:14
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Rubies posted:The clutch died on my '97 Jetta (Trek edition) and I got a loan for a new VW so I need to get rid of the old one. If I put it on craigslist as a parts/repair car how much should I ask for? Everything else about it is fine but I don't want to pay $200 to fix it then have something else go that I don't have the skills to fix.
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Nov 13, 2011 08:58
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If there's nothing else wrong with it, you should definitely replace the clutch (or whatever broke) before selling it. "Nice car, needs nothing" will get you way more money for it than "Can't test drive, bring trailer".
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Nov 13, 2011 09:27
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kimbo305 posted:How bad is the clutch? Like won't pull you away from a stop bad, or just slipping with heavy acceleration? There's no resistance at all, but I can see the cable moving up and down when someone presses on it, all the way into that area that contains the clutch itself. A bunch of smoke was coming out of it when it died. I cant get into any gear. Lowclock: I was thinking about doing that but at this point I don't feel like putting any more effort into it. I was expecting it to last less than a year and that was over 3 years ago so I'm fine not getting the maximum value i could possibly get. I just don't know how much to sell it for as a parts car. One time I was at an outdoor bar and saw I guy looking into my car, so I asked him whats up and he was going on and on about different types of Jettas and how my trek edition is worth a little extra because of the bucket seats with the embroidered logo and a few other things. If I put $500 with the expectation of being talked down to 4, is that reasonable? Too much? Too little? I don't usually trifle with carfoolery like this because I take the subway everywhere so I have no idea what's expected. Also, once again if there's any New England Goon who feels like scooping it up in Dot for extra cheap it's yours. I lurk this thread once in a while so I know how into these cars you folks are so I'd be happy to let it go to someone who will use my beloved Jetta for a good cause. If I don't get this sorted in the next few days I'm gonna call the junkman to tow it away and that thought makes me sad
Rubies fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Nov 13, 2011 |
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Nov 13, 2011 18:22
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Depending on the mileage and condition of the rest of the car, junking it might be your easiest solution. You have an (to the buyer) unknown clutch problem that makes the car unusable until fixed -- the most you could ask is several hundred, I think. So I think listing it as a clean (if it is) parts car at 500 is reasonable. People might ask for the seats alone.
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Nov 13, 2011 20:44
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Rubies posted:There's no resistance at all, but I can see the cable moving up and down when someone presses on it, all the way into that area that contains the clutch itself. A bunch of smoke was coming out of it when it died. I cant get into any gear. The smoke though makes me think someone worse happened
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Nov 13, 2011 20:46
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There's something wrong with my glow plug system - 98 Jetta TDI. I got a check engine light P0380 the first day of fall that was actually decently cold. I measured the resistance on my glowplugs with a multimeter and got 0.8 to 0.9 ohms on all of them. My research indicated that a lot of cars are just hypochondriacs with regards to glow plugs, so I left it alone. Once it actually got cold cold, I realized that the car was starting kind of hard and there probably was a real problem. The 50 Amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. It blew again the next time I started my car, if not sooner. I figure the next step is to replace the relay, but I thought I'd ask here before I buy a part I might not need. Do I need to disconnect the battery when I replace the relay? I didn't for the fuse but maybe I should have. Thanks.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:31
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Rubies posted:If I put $500 with the expectation of being talked down to 4, is that reasonable? Too much? Too little? I don't usually trifle with carfoolery like this because I take the subway everywhere so I have no idea what's expected. If there are ANY good parts on it that is UNREASONABLY LOW. $400-500 is what you should be expecting from a scrap yard that will be coming to you to pick it up. People who are interested in a parts car like that are going to want a lot more information about things than the average person, and are fewer and further inbetween. So it could take some time to juice $2-400 more out of it. Up to you if that's worth the effort.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:39
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Opensourcepirate posted:I figure the next step is to replace the relay, but I thought I'd ask here before I buy a part I might not need. Do I need to disconnect the battery when I replace the relay? I didn't for the fuse but maybe I should have. It is pretty unlikely that a relay is going to blow the switched load side fuse. In fact, I can't think of any way that would happen short of some very odd type of malfunction in the relay itself that I've certainly never seen. You need to be checking the amperage draw on the plugs. Sounds like one or more are way over, or you have a partial short somewhere in front of the 50 A fuse. And no on needing to disconnect the battery on either of those.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:41
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Rubies posted:If I put $500 with the expectation of being talked down to 4, is that reasonable? Too much? Too little? I don't usually trifle with carfoolery like this because I take the subway everywhere so I have no idea what's expected.
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Nov 14, 2011 00:13
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Motronic posted:It is pretty unlikely that a relay is going to blow the switched load side fuse. In fact, I can't think of any way that would happen short of some very odd type of malfunction in the relay itself that I've certainly never seen. I was thinking maybe the relay went bad in some way where it's shorting internally. Like I said, the plugs are all within .1 ohm of each other and within spec. I looked for shorts in the engine bay, but the harness wires very quickly join a bunch of other wires in a big bundle. I'm not sure how I'm going to check the amperage draw if the fuse blows immediately. A relay is only $50, so I think I might just see if it fixes things. Edit: To be perfectly fair, I'm not positive that the fuse blew immediately. The check engine code came back immediately (I had cleared it when I replaced the fuse), and when I checked like 6 starts later, the fuse was blown. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 01:07
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Opensourcepirate posted:I was thinking maybe the relay went bad in some way where it's shorting internally. Like I said, the plugs are all within .1 ohm of each other and within spec. I looked for shorts in the engine bay, but the harness wires very quickly join a bunch of other wires in a big bundle. One would start by checking the amperage at the fuse when the plugs are on. If it is high, you move on to checking the amperage while moving as much of the harness as possible to see if it changes. You then go to checking the individual amperage draw on the plugs, which is most easily done leaving your probe in exactly the same spot and leaving only one plug attached at a time. It's your money, so if you prefer throwing parts at things rather than doing diagnostics that is your prerogative.
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Nov 14, 2011 01:43
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