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commissargribb posted:My only problem is that wheeling with my rig being unlifted is that despite the fact it's perfectly capable, it physically wont fit over moderately sized rocks and as such, I drive in fear of getting caught on rocks other people would ignore. That is true. I went from this.  weyland 077 by atticus_1354, on Flickr To this.  Rocks that I used to ignore now give me nightmares. Not to mention the lack off offroad tires and lockers.
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Nov 13, 2011 01:48
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commissargribb posted:My only problem is that wheeling with my rig being unlifted is that despite the fact it's perfectly capable, it physically wont fit over moderately sized rocks and as such, I drive in fear of getting caught on rocks other people would ignore. you aren't going fast enough  I tend to treat everything like a race course, and rock crawling is no exception. If you don't mind a few scratches and have proper skidplates you can probably just go a little faster and bounce/slide over something instead of hanging up on it. This doesn't always work obviously... professional driver, closed course. Do not attempt.
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Nov 13, 2011 02:13
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commissargribb posted:My only problem is that wheeling with my rig being unlifted is that despite the fact it's perfectly capable, it physically wont fit over moderately sized rocks and as such, I drive in fear of getting caught on rocks other people would ignore. Buy a ton of metal, a few cases of beer, and come use my MIG. Also, I'm selling my Cherokee ASAP.
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Nov 13, 2011 14:21
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Slow is Fast posted:Buy a ton of metal, a few cases of beer, and come use my MIG. What do you do when you need to make repairs? remember to install removable access panels?
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Nov 14, 2011 04:00
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Things that are a bastard: tearing apart the XJ instrument cluster to fix a broken trip counter. gently caress. How do I get the speedo needle off?
FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 06:27
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kastein posted:Can't wait till I finish putting together the hammock frame for my MJ, I am welding some shock tabs to the roll/light bar at the front of the bed and building an A-frame sort of thing that hangs off the back to hold the other end up.  It's designed for a full-size but works just as well in my shortbed.
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Nov 14, 2011 06:56
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Welp, trip counter is fixed. Discovered that the PO never reconnected the idiot lights, which is why they never worked. Did that and got a low washer fluid light immediately. Refilled the washer fluid and figured, it's been 2k miles - might as well check the oil. Discovered that I was running way below the "OMG ADD OIL" line. Oil definitely smelled burnt and was pitch black. No indication from my oil pressure gauge or anything that something was amiss. I'm a terrible owner. 
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Nov 14, 2011 07:53
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hahaha, that's awesome tonedef131! PS: I still have that tire winch for you, it is still on the jeep. I haven't forgotten, just been in NYC for work 5 days a week for a loving month... it's getting old.
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Nov 14, 2011 08:03
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Found the source of the oil leak on my '92 XJ. There's an oil line that runs down from near the 2nd fan on the driver's side, along/underneath that side of the engine/oil pan. Looks like a small leak on some kind of "boot" there. Sorry for the terrible photo. I was lying on my back in the parking lot at work with a headlamp and my phone. At 11 at night. Any idea what part I need to replace that, or how much of a pain in the rear end it'll be? 
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Nov 16, 2011 06:03
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Found the source of the oil leak on my '92 XJ. There's an oil line that runs down from near the 2nd fan on the driver's side, along/underneath that side of the engine/oil pan. Looks like a small leak on some kind of "boot" there. Sorry for the terrible photo. I was lying on my back in the parking lot at work with a headlamp and my phone. At 11 at night. Automatic trans? Looks like the trans oil lines that run into the radiator. I estimate the pain in the rear end factor to be great.
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Nov 16, 2011 12:33
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Yeah, AW4 auto. Took me a bit but I came to the same conclusion. What I can't figure out is which line it is - I can't find a diagram of the lines. AutoZone shows three parts:
I suspect it is the third one but I can't really tell.
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Nov 16, 2011 19:53
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94 XJ with an AW4 auto trans is overheating on inclines. Any idea what could be causing this? On any type of steep incline highway/pass the transmission will blow out fluid from the vent hole which then drips on to the exhaust creating a nice smoke show. I havent changed the fluid in awhile which makes me think that there may be moisture in it. Ive never had problems like this before except for one time when I overfilled it.
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Nov 16, 2011 21:44
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my radiator on my 2000 TJ is leaking where the plastic tank is clamped onto the aluminum core. I don't have a garage and don't want to replace it until the spring because of this. I don't mind filling it up occasionally with coolant, but would like to reduce the leaking as much as possible. Is there a product which I can apply to the outside of the radiator on that seam that will slow the leak?
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Nov 16, 2011 23:36
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rockauto.com sells all three of those lines for a total of less than 80 dollars, last I checked. Dorman part numbers 624-300, 624-301, and 624-334 iirc. You also want a pair of Dorman 800-714s if they are rusty (they probably are.) Or just keep filling it up, trans fluid prevents rust very nicely. adorai - if you could get it into the spot it needs to be in, RTV would work, but the problem is that you really can't, it ends up slathered all over the outside and will just peel off when pressure builds up behind it. I've never seen a plastic-tanked radiator successfully repaired 
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Nov 16, 2011 23:38
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I think the plastic coolant overflow tank is leaking on my 99 XJ too. The fluid will mysteriously drain out over a month or so but the level in the radiator is still solid. How big of a pain is it to change the coolant overflow tank?
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Nov 16, 2011 23:57
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The radiator leaked on my 99 as well. I replaced it when I had the motor out. Just drink a 6 pack and apply JB weld on with a trowel and call it good.
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Nov 17, 2011 02:27
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Slow is Fast posted:The radiator leaked on my 99 as well. I replaced it when I had the motor out. Just drink a 6 pack and apply JB weld on with a trowel and call it good. Just gob a whole bunch of it on and hope for the best.
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Nov 17, 2011 05:18
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1993 YJ - my dash lights aren't working. Radio, wipers, door buzzer, etc... are all fine. I also just happened to change my alternator (but it's reading over 14V when running). No special aftermarket electronics, just a standard CD player. Stock all around. I think my windshield seal is leaking a little. I am good with mechanical things but not so good with electronics. The fuse is good, what else should I be looking for?
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Nov 17, 2011 17:05
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PXJ800 posted:1993 YJ - my dash lights aren't working. Radio, wipers, door buzzer, etc... are all fine. I also just happened to change my alternator (but it's reading over 14V when running). No special aftermarket electronics, just a standard CD player. Stock all around. I think my windshield seal is leaking a little. I am good with mechanical things but not so good with electronics. The fuse is good, what else should I be looking for? which lights are not working? the gauge illumination lights? the lights above the steering column? I believe you're looking at 2 connectors... 121 and 120? that run from the wiring harness to the gauge pack under the steering wheel. I have a service manual but can't find a link to it. My first assumption would be "oh all the lights are out, must be a fuse" but you say it's fine. Stupid question: have you checked the dimmer to make sure it's not turned all the way down?
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Nov 17, 2011 22:46
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mod sassinator posted:I think the plastic coolant overflow tank is leaking on my 99 XJ too. The fluid will mysteriously drain out over a month or so but the level in the radiator is still solid. How big of a pain is it to change the coolant overflow tank? Get some 24hr two-part epoxy suitable for use on HDPE (make sure of this, standard epoxies suck on HDPE due to the low surface energy of the polyolefins). Clean the surface really well around the crack. I also sand it a bit with like 120 grit. Then cut a piece of plastic milk jug to fit over the crack with about 1/2" overlap all around. Epoxy the gently caress out of it. Let it cure for 24 hours (duh). Worked for me. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Nov 18, 2011 |
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Nov 18, 2011 00:00
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Oven and grill cleaner works great as a surface prep too. After a couple of applications and rinses it will start to etch everything, and I mean everything.
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Nov 18, 2011 00:14
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So will HF  (don't do this)
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Nov 18, 2011 00:37
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commissargribb posted:which lights are not working? the gauge illumination lights? the lights above the steering column? Thanks, I did check the dimmer and rolled it up and down a few times since my daughter likes to pretend to drive while I tool around on the Jeep, but I got no response when I tried it. I dug around Jeep Forum last night and found a checklist to run down - apparently the switch is on its way out due to a leak running down from my windshield seal (soon to be fixed with a little RTV) and needed a little cleanup. The dimmer doesn't work now and it jumps to either on or off, and it's very finicky on where it will stay on. Percussive maintenance and precise tuning of the wheel keep the lights on for now but I'll replace it soon. PCJ-600 fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Nov 18, 2011 |
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Nov 18, 2011 16:48
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The radio in my 99 Cherokee quit working the other day. Does the radio have it's own fuse or are there other things on the same circuit that shouldn't be working either?
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Nov 18, 2011 17:13
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PXJ800 posted:... due to a leak running down from my windshield seal (soon to be fixed with a little RTV) ... just curious - are you talking about the seal between the glass and the frame or the seal between the frame and the cowling?
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Nov 18, 2011 17:47
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commissargribb posted:just curious - are you talking about the seal between the glass and the frame or the seal between the frame and the cowling? The cowling (or whatever this red part is on this picture):  (not mine) I started digging around behind the foam and it's just disintegration and wet muck.
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Nov 18, 2011 17:58
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Veins McGee posted:The radio in my 99 Cherokee quit working the other day. Does the radio have it's own fuse or are there other things on the same circuit that shouldn't be working either? It's on its own fuse. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/fuse-box-diagram-229306/#post1772776
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Nov 19, 2011 00:27
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HELLO CAN I BE IN THE CLUB? Buying a 2005 Wrangler X 4.0 6speed on Monday! Super excited. I'll be towing my 2002 Yamaha LS2000 Jet Boat with my new Jeep next summer. Weighs about 2600 lbs with the trailer. Anyone recommend a hitch kit? Think the Jeep will handle to extra 600 lbs (over capacity) without issue? God drat I'm so loving excited. Edit: I think I'm going to pick up this 2.5" lift kit and some narrow 31" wheels and tires. I'll need spacers for the RIMZ, correct? nocarbon fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Nov 19, 2011 |
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Nov 19, 2011 02:12
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Bucephalus posted:It's on its own fuse. Thanks for the help.
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Nov 19, 2011 03:56
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new rear bumper and tire carrier. Still have finishing touches to do. (it swings down and makes a table)
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Nov 19, 2011 15:29
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Veins McGee posted:Thanks for the help. No problemo
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Nov 19, 2011 17:48
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Here's something interesting. The latest issue of Total Off Road here in the UK had an article on the Wrangler, and it seems (here at least) that its tow rating has been downgraded to one tonne only (2200lbs). Supposedly a jumping-through-hoops exercise involving emissions regulations, but if that's the case, and other manufacturers are going to find themselves in the same position, that could have serious implications. Does anyone know any details about this? I haven't even tried googling about it yet, but I'm intending to dig around a bit and see what's up.
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Nov 19, 2011 17:55
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nocarbon posted:Buying a 2005 Wrangler X 4.0 6speed on Monday! Super excited. On '04-'06 Jeeps, be sure you know about TSB E05. There's a lot of threads about it, more people are affected than Chrysler is admitting, and the fix can get expensive if it gets to a major failure point. That said, I love mine - same as yours, just has the Willys trim package. I've done some short distance towing with the stock hitch (never weighed, but I'm pretty sure I was at least couple hundred over capacity, the person who lent me the trailer seemed to think so, too). Didn't have any problems.
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Nov 19, 2011 18:47
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grnberet2b posted:On '04-'06 Jeeps, be sure you know about TSB E05. There's a lot of threads about it, more people are affected than Chrysler is admitting, and the fix can get expensive if it gets to a major failure point. yep. I watched this happen live to a friend's jeep in fall '10 while wheeling. We had to tow strap him a mile or two back to pavement. He found what was left of the gear sitting in the oil pan when he pulled it apart. First sign was that his #1 lifters started rattling at idle while he was waiting for the jeep at the front of the line to finish an obstacle, then check engine light came on with a series of camshaft position sensor errors and a low oil pressure error. Then lifters on #2 started rattling also. We checked oil pressure sensor and it was good, then I remembered this rumored failure and we strapped him out to avoid damaging the engine further. Talked to one of the crown guys back at camp and he knew exactly what we were talking about. Yet another of chrysler's wonderful moves. 'yes we know it's an issue but you're out of warranty, we will replace it for you at our usual rate, will that be an arm or a leg?'
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Nov 19, 2011 22:47
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I drove two hours in my gay cherokee. Did 80 on the highway no problem. Put gas in it. Went to the store. It runs great. Top end is starting to quiet down as well (probably helps I have the exhaust header bolted down better now). Today I learned that I built a motor and it works really well.
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Nov 19, 2011 23:41
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PXJ800 posted:
If it were MY jeep, I would just drop the windshield, pull the seal and replace it.  Of course- I'm sure you don't want to go through that hassle. nocarbon posted:]this 2.5" lift kit[/url] and some narrow 31" wheels and tires. I'll need spacers for the RIMZ, correct? sounds good - why would you need spacers though? 2.5" should be enough to clear 32s on a TJ unless I'm mistaken. You should be set. Slow is Fast posted:
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 00:52
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PXJ800 posted:The cowling (or whatever this red part is on this picture): This was one of the first things I replaced on my Jeep. Maybe a $10 part, just fold the windshield down. (I guess that might be hassle if it's hardtop or something)
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Nov 20, 2011 02:42
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Boomerjinks posted:This was one of the first things I replaced on my Jeep. Maybe a $10 part, just fold the windshield down. (I guess that might be hassle if it's hardtop or something) I don't know what's up with those wipers, that looks like a TJ, but TJ's have the wipers on the cowling; you have to take the arms off of the wipers to put the windshield down, major PITA.
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Nov 20, 2011 02:44
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EightBit posted:I don't know what's up with those wipers, that looks like a TJ, but TJ's have the wipers on the cowling; you have to take the arms off of the wipers to put the windshield down, major PITA. Oh wow, I never notice that. edit: Just looked it up. gently caress that.
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Nov 20, 2011 02:55
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InitialDave posted:Here's something interesting. The latest issue of Total Off Road here in the UK had an article on the Wrangler, and it seems (here at least) that its tow rating has been downgraded to one tonne only (2200lbs). Supposedly a jumping-through-hoops exercise involving emissions regulations, but if that's the case, and other manufacturers are going to find themselves in the same position, that could have serious implications. What would the implications be? Fewer tow-capable vehicles available?
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Nov 20, 2011 03:43
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