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Probably just someone putting in common lingo. I change mine on the drz every 1000 miles. There are nuts that ride actual dirt bikes that change their oil every single time they ride no matter what. Makes changing your oil every 350 miles or something look a lot more sane.
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Nov 11, 2011 18:32
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| # ? May 10, 2024 05:38 |
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ffubalo bill posted:http://i.imgur.com/1e10C.jpg Does it start right back up after dying? If it does not: Open the cap, close it, try starting. If it fires right up from that it is probably vaporlock. I don't know how that tank inhales, but mine has a convoluted series of tubes in the gas cap with a one-way valve that likes to become a no-way valve. The solution to mine is to remove it, as this POS will spill gas in an accident no matter what.
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Nov 11, 2011 21:01
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Check the vacuum line going to the petcock too. Mine was pinched due to having a larger Clarke tank and caused stalling issues when i first had it until I rerouted it properly.
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Nov 11, 2011 21:13
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JP Money posted:Probably just someone putting in common lingo. I change mine on the drz every 1000 miles. There are nuts that ride actual dirt bikes that change their oil every single time they ride no matter what. Makes changing your oil every 350 miles or something look a lot more sane. Race dirtbikes and sumos have their maintenance interval measured in hours with a new piston ever 40 or so of those, so it is not inconcievable that one would chain their oil regularly on those things. PS don't buy a bike which has hourly maintenance intervals.
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Nov 11, 2011 21:25
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I really can't afford it, but I might do it anyways. What is this thread's thought about this? http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/2697235442.html I really like the way Yamaha dirtbikes look, that seems like a decent price, and 40+hp with 260lbs seems a fair bit better than a DRZ Are these bikes reliable for day to day commuting? I know the WR is more enduro-minded than the YZ, but I'm not sure if that translates in to maintainence
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Nov 11, 2011 21:29
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KARMA! posted:Race dirtbikes and sumos have their maintenance interval measured in hours with a new piston ever 40 or so of those, so it is not inconcievable that one would chain their oil regularly on those things. All the best ones will have those kind of intervals unfortunately. The SXV is amazing, but it's not what typical street-type riders are used to dealing with. To me, I came from 2-stroke dirt bikes which needed rebuilt every once in a while anyways so it doesn't look so bad. You definitely pay for that high-performance though. Leads me to not recommend CRF's and stuff for supermotos since no one wants to be wrenching on valves and such every other month or something when they could be riding. I'll be damned if converted MX race bikes don't make DRZ's and such look like no fun though 
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Nov 11, 2011 21:31
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Just took it for a 2 hour ride and had no problems. Looks like the shop was right. I will have to be careful to not over fill it. Took it over a curb and found a few trails. Getting the drz is one of the best decisions I have ever made.
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Nov 11, 2011 21:35
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Do not under any circumstances ride a Euro bike / converted MX bike. The extra 20hp and loss of 50-70 pounds is nuts.
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Nov 11, 2011 21:40
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Korwen posted:I really can't afford it, but I might do it anyways. It does but it's still gonna be more maintenance intensive than a DRZ or similar such. I wouldn't want a 450 for anything but dedicated supermoto, offroad it's gonna be a monster of a first bike, and on road it's gonna be amazing but it's also gonna require quite a bit of maintenance.
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Nov 11, 2011 22:06
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JP Money posted:I'll be damned if converted MX race bikes don't make DRZ's and such look like no fun though Druggy proverb: Once you go crack you never go back.
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Nov 11, 2011 23:22
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One nice thing about bikes with maintenance measured in hours is that everything is easy. Oil takes 10 minutes, valves took me 45 minutes last time but that was the first time doing them. Keep in mind also the ridiculous 4 hour oil, 6 hour valve checks is for racing. For street riding I change my oil every 10-12 hours and valves every 20. Sure it is a bit more work but drat it's a fun bike.
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Nov 11, 2011 23:24
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How many pistons have you gone through already? 
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Nov 11, 2011 23:40
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JP Money posted:I'll be damned if converted MX race bikes don't make DRZ's and such look like no fun though I always hate this comparison. My converted race bike is crazier than that box stock street oriented bike. Well no poo poo. DRZADL Assemble!!!
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Nov 11, 2011 23:59
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KARMA! posted:How many pistons have you gone through already? While the CRF is stupidly fun I do miss the DRZ at times. No need to check the hour meter and the magic electric start button was nice.
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Nov 12, 2011 00:10
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I always hate this comparison. Why do you hate this comparison? Even a modified drz isn't really as good at hooligan-ism supermoto poo poo as a converted CRF or WR. They're like 50 pounds lighter and have a different power curve / feel.
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Nov 12, 2011 03:34
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JP Money posted:Why do you hate this comparison? Even a modified drz isn't really as good at hooligan-ism supermoto poo poo as a converted CRF or WR. They're like 50 pounds lighter and have a different power curve / feel. maybe because they are so far different that it is really not fair to compare them. i have a klr and kx 250 and i have people ask me why i have the kx when i already have a "dirt bike''. they have no idea that there is no comparison between the two.
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Nov 12, 2011 04:30
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JP Money posted:Why do you hate this comparison? Even a modified drz isn't really as good at hooligan-ism supermoto poo poo as a converted CRF or WR. They're like 50 pounds lighter and have a different power curve / feel. Because its still apples and oranges. They're designed for different things.
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Nov 12, 2011 06:17
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JP Money posted:Why do you hate this comparison? Even a modified drz isn't really as good at hooligan-ism supermoto poo poo as a converted CRF or WR. They're like 50 pounds lighter and have a different power curve / feel. I almost prefer the power of the DRZ for riding like a dumbass, especially if I could get it in the weight of a MX bike. The DRZ I never worried about looping or sliding out, the power was mild and super controllable...the CRF has scared me a few times because it just has so much torque and power everywhere. Now for track use...MX bike all the way the ridiculous power and light weight are wonderful.
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Nov 12, 2011 13:28
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Riding a street legal "racebike" like the Husky on the track and sliding around/riding off the edge of your tires/grinding your teeth trying to keep up with converted MX'ers as they pull away easily really makes the difference pretty clear.
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Nov 12, 2011 13:53
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Gnaghi posted:Riding a street legal "racebike" like the Husky on the track and sliding around/riding off the edge of your tires/grinding your teeth trying to keep up with converted MX'ers as they pull away easily really makes the difference pretty clear. This is my point. Even the "race"-oriented street bikes just don't have that brutal power that MX'ers have. It's pretty shocking to get on a crf450 or similar and hit the gas in 4th gear and feel the front lift. On a DRZ you're loving lucky when that happens really low in 2nd. That doesn't make them better street bikes though, that's definitely true. Just makes them crazier to ride and imo more "fun" in the sense of going fast and hooning around on a super-light bike.
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Nov 12, 2011 14:57
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Here goons, enjoy a crappy test video in crappy weather of the WR250. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xNSV81Pgrs You even get to catch a glimpse of ~*~MY GIRLFRIEND~*~
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Nov 14, 2011 21:43
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SaNChEzZ posted:Here goons, enjoy a crappy test video in crappy weather of the WR250. You call that hoonin'!?
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Nov 15, 2011 02:06
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Z3n posted:You call that hoonin'!? I don't know how to hoon yet Explain to me how to clutch up a wheelie, it seems like when most people do it it's smooth, but the times that I've tried it just jerks really hard. Am I supposed to slip the clutch or dump it? Also, I'm too fat for power wheelies on the 250, unless I'm doing that wrong too
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Nov 15, 2011 02:20
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Dump it. Gotta jerk it up hard. Especially on the WR. Try it in second gear, if that doesn't work, try first gear. Get the bike rolling in second, clutch in, pin the throttle, dump the clutch. Don't recommend this on anything that's not an anemic little 250 though. 
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Nov 15, 2011 02:25
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Z3n posted:Dump it. Gotta jerk it up hard. Especially on the WR. Try it in second gear, if that doesn't work, try first gear. And that won't run me the risk of stripping gears or killing my clutch, right?
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Nov 15, 2011 02:38
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SaNChEzZ posted:And that won't run me the risk of stripping gears or killing my clutch, right? Nope, just don't do it over and over and over and over and over. If you did it like a hundred times in a row you might be able to glaze the clutch plates but I doubt it, dirt bike clutches take a shitload of abuse.
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Nov 15, 2011 02:40
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Awesome, gunna try it next time I ride. I got the front to come up like 1 inch in first by rolling off then on again abruptly and sitting as far back as I possibly can.
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Nov 15, 2011 02:47
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ANYTHING can be wheelied. You should be able to clutch it up easily. Either that or sit back on the seat and whack the throttle open in first. Either way, it'll come up
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Nov 15, 2011 04:02
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Don't feel bad, I'm skittish as gently caress to wheelie... but I let my brother (me +60lbs) on and he rocks a 4-gear wheelie down the road, so yeah, its just lack of wanting it enough 
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Nov 15, 2011 06:15
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SaNChEzZ posted:Here goons, enjoy a crappy test video in crappy weather of the WR250. I wanted a WR250R badly. Then the reality of Guam pricing hit me. 9 grand for a 2011. gently caress that
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Nov 15, 2011 12:53
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Track day yesterday confirms it...CRF450R supermotos are stupid fun. Private track day at little tally with 7 people per group, I got put in novice so I practiced passing. Was topping out at 115 on the back straight versus 102 on the DRZ two years ago. Had a lot of fun playing with the sportbikes on the track. Gopro decided to record one of the three session I used it, that session it was aimed too far down so all you see is tank and upper triple (chesty mount). Need to find a tighter track to play on. It was a lot of fun to finally be able to open it up and see what the bike can do. Impressed the hell out of me and is far far more capable than I am.
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Nov 15, 2011 18:21
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Z3n posted:Dump it. Gotta jerk it up hard. Especially on the WR. Try it in second gear, if that doesn't work, try first gear. This, but keep your god drat foot over the rear brake in case you start to loop. I had to learn this one the hard way, twice.
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Nov 16, 2011 02:19
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I guess this is sort of a general motorcycle question, but anyway: I'm facing the probability of not having a winter storage location for my bike this year and having to keep it outside all winter. I can buy any number of tarps and covers and such, but is there anything I should REALLY look for? I'm in an apartment, so a shed is out of the question. The bike is a DRZ400SM if that makes any difference.
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Nov 16, 2011 08:01
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robotsinmyhead posted:I guess this is sort of a general motorcycle question, but anyway: You got a living room right? 2nd floor apt.  But I guess if you really have to keep it outside, Sta-Bil in a full tank of gas, battery hooked up to tender, GOOD waterproof cover, raise it off the ground so tires are off, and maybe some some sort of antifreeze in the radiator, replace with proper coolant come spring. I actually have no idea what kind of coolant is in there stock.
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Nov 16, 2011 10:47
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pr0zac posted:This, but keep your god drat foot over the rear brake in case you start to loop. I had to learn this one the hard way, twice. The only problem I have with this "cover the rear brake" mentality is that unless you actually practice stopping wheelies with the rear brake, you will not have the muscle memory to use the rear brake in an emergency. Your foot may be covering the pedal but you'll still think "OH poo poo!" and just chop the throttle and maybe try to lean forward or some dumb poo poo. You really need to cement the idea that REAR BRAKE = STOP WHEELIE to your right foot. I suggest positive reinforcement with candy.
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Nov 16, 2011 13:29
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If you're going to leave it in an apartment or other dwelling, just pinch the gas line off with a pair of vice grips, and run the carb dry. You'll ruin the gas line and have to replace it in the spring, but its better than a float deciding to give up at the wrong time. Raw gas fumes take forever to get out of carpet and furniture. Ask me how I know 
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Nov 16, 2011 15:27
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Why couldn't you just turn off the petcock and run the bike dry or, in the case of a vacuum petcock, remove the tank? Seems unnecessary to ruin your fuel line.
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Nov 16, 2011 16:20
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Olde Weird Tip posted:If you're going to leave it in an apartment or other dwelling, just pinch the gas line off with a pair of vice grips, and run the carb dry. You'll ruin the gas line and have to replace it in the spring, but its better than a float deciding to give up at the wrong time. Raw gas fumes take forever to get out of carpet and furniture. You know there's a screw on your carb to drain gas out of right?
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Nov 16, 2011 16:44
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Why couldn't you just turn off the petcock and run the bike dry or, in the case of a vacuum petcock, remove the tank? Seems unnecessary to ruin your fuel line. You can, but in my experience almost no petcock keeps gas sealed completely for months on end. They often have slow drips, slow enough that you dont notice it when the tank is off for a few hours or when you're riding the bike regularly. JP Money posted:You know there's a screw on your carb to drain gas out of right? Yep. You know most carbs out there dont have a drain line, or they do but its over the frame and makes a splashy mess, or its pinched off, or any number of other things, right? Those both apply doubly if the bike is older.
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Nov 16, 2011 17:30
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You're right, those are clearly unsolvable problems and require ruining a gas line which then needs to be replaced before you can ride next year. My mistake.
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Nov 16, 2011 17:33
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