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Are you planning on making an enclosure for those or just letting that metal bracket...thing out as is? Are those lights sealed up to be waterproof?
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Nov 14, 2011 03:31
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Z3n posted:There will always be some drag on the rear wheel unless you kick it into neutral. Ah, thanks! What I wanted to hear. But how do I know which amount of drag is proper?  JP Money posted:Are you planning on making an enclosure for those or just letting that metal bracket...thing out as is? Are those lights sealed up to be waterproof? Yeah, the lights are sealed. This is just temporary because I actually have the original headlight assembly for the bike sitting in my room right now and am likely just gonna sell the HID's since I am a fan of soft yellow over hard blue light.
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Nov 14, 2011 03:34
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If it's not creeping when you're on the bike with the clutch in, in gear, you're good.
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Nov 14, 2011 03:39
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You guys know that you can shove a jackstand up underneath the rear swingarm to get the wheel off of the ground right? I've used this technique for a LONG time, but talked to someone today who had no idea. Easiest way is with a cool bike, kickstand down, walk to the throttle side, grab the passenger grab handle, shove your knee under the exhaust, then push with the grab bar until it lifts up, then keep it propped up with your knee on the exhaust, and slid the jackstand underneath the swingarm. e: Step 1:  Step 2:  Step 3:  Step 4: Savin' money. e2:god I need to sweep. invision fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 04:10
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But it feels so satisfying to push a bike up with a stand! It's like its own micro-orgasmic release. 
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Nov 14, 2011 04:24
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Bike pics  Note the custom Nike(r) tail bag.
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Nov 14, 2011 05:23
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I think blue is the best color for these bikes, personally.  What do first gens typically average for mileage? I don't even take note because it costs me like $10 to fill up every week.
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Nov 14, 2011 05:47
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Fuelly.com claims I'm gettting 44.4 on my first gen, but others there seem to be doing better.
Loucks fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 13:18
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invision posted:You guys know that you can shove a jackstand up underneath the rear swingarm to get the wheel off of the ground right? You can do this with a ~3 ft 2x4 as well, just use one of the frame bolts. However now that I have an actual rear stand I kind of love using it for the 'micro-orgasmic' feeling previously mentioned..
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Nov 14, 2011 19:06
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Fixed my clutch issues. My friend couldn't conceptualize the friction zone in relation to the cable and ended up tightening it the wrong way.  Now I just need my carburetor boots to come in to prevent road slop from entering my engine and this pig will ~fly.~  Anybody with graffiti or stenciling skills around Santa Cruz wanna tag up the plastic bits on my bike?
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Nov 14, 2011 22:13
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Xovaan posted:What do first gens typically average for mileage? I don't even take note because it costs me like $10 to fill up every week. I get 45-48 around town typically, have logged as high as 53-55 on a couple of longer highway trips. Topping off my tank for like 8 bucks a week is awesome.
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Nov 15, 2011 18:18
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I average 45-47 most of the time. Fill up every 3 days with a 50 mile (round trip) commute.
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Nov 15, 2011 18:28
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So I'm converting back to the stock headlight assembly because I love the warm glow of yellow when riding at night. Anybody happen to have an extra headlight plug or wiring harness lying around? I don't really feel like shelling out $50 on eBay for the whole harness if I can just splice in the plug itself to the existing one
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Nov 16, 2011 08:34
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Xovaan posted:So I'm converting back to the stock headlight assembly because I love the warm glow of yellow when riding at night. First or second gen? I recently gutted a wiring harness and saved all the connectors. If first gen I'll send it to you for shipping.
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Nov 16, 2011 14:24
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Xovaan posted:So I'm converting back to the stock headlight assembly because I love the warm glow of yellow when riding at night. You should be able to buy a h4 connector for less than 5 quid in any motor factors/auto parts place. I've had to replace a lot of them over the years on ld bikes where the originals had melted/corroded http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Headlight-Socket/_/N-25v6?filterByKeyWord=h4+socket&fromString=search
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Nov 16, 2011 14:39
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echomadman posted:You should be able to buy a h4 connector for less than 5 quid in any motor factors/auto parts place. I've had to replace a lot of them over the years on ld bikes where the originals had melted/corroded This looks like what I need! NitroSpazzz posted:First or second gen? I recently gutted a wiring harness and saved all the connectors. If first gen I'll send it to you for shipping. Yep, first gen. edit: I just might go down to Napa and buy it right now since it's only like $5 and literally a half mile from my house. 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Nov 16, 2011 |
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Nov 16, 2011 20:50
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Xovaan posted:Yep, first gen. edit: I just might go down to Napa and buy it right now since it's only like $5 and literally a half mile from my house.
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Nov 17, 2011 14:09
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NitroSpazzz posted:Sounds good So the gas light on my first gen 2000 SV650 works when I turn it on, but unfortunately does not light up when it is suppose to, i.e. when I am out of gas! I normally fill up with some still in the tank so I had never noticed it not coming on before. I was riding the other day the bike starts sputtering and losing power. Luckily it ran out right next to a gas station and there weren't many people around so I was able to push my bike over to the station. Does anyone know how expensive this is to fix?
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Nov 17, 2011 20:26
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Have a look at the wiring from the fuel level sender on the bottom of the tank. it may be that one has broken
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Nov 17, 2011 22:56
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MaC_DaDDy posted:So the gas light on my first gen 2000 SV650 works when I turn it on, but unfortunately does not light up when it is suppose to, i.e. when I am out of gas! I normally fill up with some still in the tank so I had never noticed it not coming on before. I was riding the other day the bike starts sputtering and losing power. Luckily it ran out right next to a gas station and there weren't many people around so I was able to push my bike over to the station. It's probably a bad fuel level sensor. If it's coming on with ignition, it's probably not the wiring. My guess is that they're $50 new and half of that used. Try ebay.
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Nov 18, 2011 07:30
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Could also be a disconnected plug/spade connector. You remove the tank lately?
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Nov 18, 2011 08:02
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MaC_DaDDy posted:I was riding the other day the bike starts sputtering and losing power. Luckily it ran out right next to a gas station and there weren't many people around so I was able to push my bike over to the station. Isn't that scenario what the reserve switch on the petcock is for?
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Nov 18, 2011 17:54
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Ziploc posted:Isn't that scenario what the reserve switch on the petcock is for? Not sure if it is true on all but mine doesn't have a reserve, pretty sure none of them do.
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Nov 18, 2011 18:50
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Z3n posted:Could also be a disconnected plug/spade connector. You remove the tank lately? Could be. I'd find it rare if the power-on self check works though. Definitely check your connectors and wires like the big guys say, mate. Then change your bad fuel level sensor.
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Nov 19, 2011 01:00
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Sir Cornelius posted:Could be. I'd find it rare if the power-on self check works though. Definitely check your connectors and wires like the big guys say, mate. the power on self test is just a bulb test. it comes on even if the sender is disconnected as far as i recall from leaving it disconnected one time
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Nov 19, 2011 22:14
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Anyone know anything about an R6 front end swap? All I've been able to find is a few people going "Yeah, I did it!" then never giving any info as to the hows/whats involved.
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Nov 20, 2011 04:05
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invision posted:Anyone know anything about an R6 front end swap? http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=2420778&postcount=9 best info i could find, he made a spacer for the top of the steering stem but i'm pretty sure you can get a different bearing with the right inside diameter edit: from another thread quote:It looks like the stock bearing sizes on the SV are: email these guys and ask http://twfracing.com/PartsPages/steeringheadbearing.html echomadman fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 04:49
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Well, I should've said that I found *some* stuff for the first gen. I have a second gen. Thanks though!
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Nov 20, 2011 05:37
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invision posted:Well, I should've said that I found *some* stuff for the first gen. I have a second gen. Thanks though! The best fork you can get for a SV650 is a 2001/2/3 GSXR750/GSXR1000 Showa fork. It's close to bolt-on, but you'll need the entire front since nothing from your 2. generation SV650 will bolt on to this. The real question is loving "why?" If your original fork isn't severely damaged, it definitely won't be worth it.
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Nov 20, 2011 17:31
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Because I'm picking up an 03 r6s with a blown motor for $300, and want to use what I can from it for my SV before I part the rest out.
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Nov 20, 2011 17:59
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So I was riding home today at about 6k RPM (on flat ground) when all of a sudden my bike started engine braking pretty hard followed by a huge backfire. I pulled in the clutch and started riding again and it went away for a bit, but several minutes later did the same thing again. It felt like downshifting to a harsh engine brake but the thing is I didn't change gears at all. I rode the bike home in a lower RPM and it was fine. I'm only assuming this is fouled plugs. Anybody want to take a jab at what it could be? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 07:11
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Check your safety/killswitches.
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Nov 23, 2011 17:31
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What would the killswitch have to do with anything though? The bike doesn't completely stall out while riding; when I release the clutch the bike idles fine after the issue.
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Nov 23, 2011 20:23
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Xovaan posted:What would the killswitch have to do with anything though? The bike doesn't completely stall out while riding; when I release the clutch the bike idles fine after the issue. Well, the cutout is going to take place before the backfire takes place. After it backfires, it's already running again (because it backfired so it ignited the fuel mixture somehow). I've seen issues when kickstand springs start to go, you hit a big bump, and the kickstand drops down, cuts ignition for a second, huge backfire, and then operates as normal.
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Nov 23, 2011 20:59
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Actually that sounds extremely plausible! The bike runs completely normally other than what occurred. You're awesome, man. Gonna check it out today. Thanks so much! Update: Turns out there is only one kickstand return spring on the bike and it's causing the stand to sag a pretty good bit. What are my options for fixing this? Bikebandit's website is a complete and utter pile of buggy garbage (It asks for my email to update my shipping information then says that email is already in use, and when you click the "checkout" button it just refreshes the page.  ) so I can't order the part and I don't know any other place that stocks such a specific part.I'm thinking of just bypassing the solenoid but this could lead to disaster and ruin. Any advice? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 21:01
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Xovaan posted:Actually that sounds extremely plausible! The bike runs completely normally other than what occurred. You're awesome, man. Gonna check it out today. Thanks so much! If it was me I would go to the local bike scrapper and see what they've got lying around. It is an incredible simple part that last forever and does not need to look pretty. Either way, get a bunch of pennies to attach the sucker. Youtube it if you don't know what i'm talking about. Xovaan posted:I'm thinking of just bypassing the solenoid but this could lead to disaster and ruin. Any advice? That thing will save your rear end one time or even many times if you are like me. Do not gently caress with it. don't ever EVER fix a problem by creating another one.
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Nov 23, 2011 23:44
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KARMA! posted:If it was me I would go to the local bike scrapper and see what they've got lying around. It is an incredible simple part that last forever and does not need to look pretty. That penny trick is GENIUS. Holy poo poo. If only I knew about that when replacing my clutch return spring on my Volvo.  Yeah, I have the springs coming in the mail now. Not gonna gently caress with the safety switch. Just put on my SV650S throttle cables today and the issue of the throttle not snapping closed when my hand is taken off of it. It's a LOT more responsive now and doesn't look like poo poo! (he also put the older, longer throttle cables AROUND the forks instead of through them, causing tons of issues with it chafing the brake lever) Also fixed my tach issue. Once again, the idiot previous owner simply stuck the wire for the pulse sensor in the ignition terminal without any crimp and it was coming loose. Next up is an oil change because I'm fairly certain he overfilled it since when the bike is perpendicular with the ground (both on a center stand and simply upright) the oil gauge reads way above the "full" mark. Tomorrow I'm going to revert back to the stock SV650N headlight setup. Working on bikes is so much fun and extremely easy.  I'm convinced that everybody in this world is retarded and shouldn't touch anything they own because it's just one more thing I have to un-fuckify down the road.
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Nov 24, 2011 02:23
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Xovaan posted:Any advice? Yeah, buy a new spring. It's about $10 shipped.
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Nov 27, 2011 16:36
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Ordered one a few days ago. Hope it comes in soon.
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Nov 27, 2011 21:11
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Man, I can't loving wait until winter break. Gonna be heading back down to my house and picking up all my tools since my friend is done with his engine swap. I'll be able to completely rewire and waterproof every electrical connection on my bike for the winter and properly torque every bolt on the bike (Suzuki uses foot pounds- not inch pounds- right? ). Having to borrow tools absolutely sucks. On that note, anybody have a detailed guide on how to properly tension a chain for a first gen? The problem is that people say it needs about 1" of chain slack but I don't know if they're referring to the overall play of the chain or what. 
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Nov 29, 2011 21:57
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