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Disregard this post...apparently my pipes broke under my mobile home...
Captainsalami fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 06:17
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| # ? May 22, 2024 18:56 |
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There is a GFI electrical outlet outside that I would like to remove because whenever it rains it shorts out and knocks out the power to my bathroom outlets. Also the freezer I have outside - resulting in the loss of the contents of said freezer when we didn't notice the GFI had tripped. Yeah, special, I know, I didn't install it. The previous occupants went a little nuts with them, so they're friggen eeeeeverywhere. Plan is to remove the GFI outlet assembly and put a blank plate over it, seal with caulk if needed. What I can't figure out is if I need to connect the wires together in the box, or if I can just snip any exposed wire and wrap in electrical tape, then forget about it. So that's my question, if I were to remove the GFI outlet, with no intention of replacing the outlet, do I need to connect the wires in the box to continue getting power down the line?
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Nov 14, 2011 22:32
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Yes you would need to nut them together with marrettes.
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Nov 14, 2011 22:52
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I like turtles posted:There is a GFI electrical outlet outside that I would like to remove because whenever it rains it shorts out and knocks out the power to my bathroom outlets. Also the freezer I have outside - resulting in the loss of the contents of said freezer when we didn't notice the GFI had tripped. Yup, if that GFCI isn't at the end if the line (and generally they are at the beginning), you'll need to patch through that box or rerun the wiring to the next outlet completely. Keep in mind that your bathroom (and any wet location) MUST be GFCI protected, so you'll need to change the next outlet down the string to a GFCI to protect everything further down.
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Nov 14, 2011 22:53
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Cool ok. Yeah, all the outlets in the bathroom are GFCI
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Nov 14, 2011 23:06
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I like turtles posted:There is a GFI electrical outlet outside that I would like to remove because whenever it rains it shorts out and knocks out the power to my bathroom outlets. Also the freezer I have outside - resulting in the loss of the contents of said freezer when we didn't notice the GFI had tripped. It's not that the occupants went a little nuts, it's that the electrical code did. Now you need GFCIs: within 6 feet of sinks (bathrooms and kitchens, maybe a wet bar or utility sink), unfinished parts of basements, outdoors, and in garages. I'm guessing that your freezer is in the garage. Outdoor outlets now are also required to be weather-resistant, not just shock-resistant. Code also requires an exterior outlet by both the front and back doors... It might not even be the outdoor outlet getting wet and tripping either. The motors in major appliances (washers, fridges, freezers) can behave in a way to resemble a false positive to a GFCI and cause it to trip. There's 2 things you could do to fix that: 1. Try getting a commercial grade GFCI, they are a bit more resistant to false positive trips. 2. Run a dedicated circuit for your freezer and put it on a regular non-GFCI outlet. Code does allow for this. edit: if you have GFCIs in the bathrooms but a trip on the outside bathroom took them down too, then that outdoor outlet is wired wrong. Pull it out of its box, remove the wires from its protected terminals and attach them to the source wires on the terminals below. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 23:41
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Solid Oak Acorn posted:This is the third thread I've tried, does anyone have any recommendations for a metal to metal adhesive? I really like this pen. EA9309.
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Nov 14, 2011 23:46
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It's actually a rental, and they have a GFI on the circuit running the kitchen fridge that keeps getting tripped because of the fridge - the electrician is going to the property company to get permission to run a dedicated fridge drop, so that I don't have to keep an extension cord strung across the kitchen to the only non-GFI'd outlet by the stove like it is currently. Only since Saturday, though, when the problems really took off and the kitchen unit popped every time the fridge motor started. Since I brought the freezer (which is outside, safely under a porch), and have a disinclination to do electrical work on a house I don't own beyond removing the offending outside GFI, removing the GFI is probably the most sensible thing to do. I'll put it back when I move out, but it's ridiculous that it is uncovered on an exterior wall - and it gets tripped every time we have a solid rain. I like turtles fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 23:58
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I like turtles posted:
But if that's why it's tripping, it's doing what it's supposed to. You're going to replace it with a regular receptacle that's going to still get wet every time it rains because it's uncovered on an exterior wall, and...it won't trip now even though it's clearly being shorted. That's probably not the best solution.
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Nov 15, 2011 00:01
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Silly question; why not cover it?
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Nov 15, 2011 00:03
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Phanatic posted:But if that's why it's tripping, it's doing what it's supposed to. You're going to replace it with a regular receptacle that's going to still get wet every time it rains because it's uncovered on an exterior wall, and...it won't trip now even though it's clearly being shorted. That's probably not the best solution. No, I wanted to remove the outlet entirely and put a blank plate over it that is possibly caulked to keep the water out of the box. That outlet isn't in active use, and just causes problems - having no outlet there is preferable to having an outlet there. It would additionally be better as I could run my freezer without worrying so much about losing everything, as it would be the first outlet on the drop and before any GFIs that would cause me trouble with motor sensitivity. I like turtles fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 00:11
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If that freezer outlet is outdoors and gets wet, it will STILL trip the GFCI ahead of it on the circuit. That's what the protected terminals are there for. Since you have something plugged into that outlet, then that must mean the weatherproof cover isn't protecting... That's the more likely source of the trip than the other GFCI above. What kind of weatherproof cover is on that outlet for your freezer, the flat flip cover type, or the box type?
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 00:19
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I explained poorly, apologies. The GFI plug is exposed, but the freezer and the associated outlet are under the porch and not at serious risk of getting wet unless we're at flood level or something. Not a giant risk in the middle of the desert. Here is a crude drawing  And by "fridge" in the drawing I mean "freezer" I like turtles fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 00:33
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I like turtles posted:I explained poorly, apologies. The GFI plug is exposed, but the freezer and the associated outlet are under the porch and not at serious risk of getting wet unless we're at flood level or something. Not a giant risk in the middle of the desert. kid sinister posted:What kind of weatherproof cover is on that outlet for your freezer, the flat flip cover type, or the box type?
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Nov 15, 2011 01:17
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Flat springed type on the freezer outlet, one on each socket, bubble type on the problem outlet
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Nov 15, 2011 02:38
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I have a closet on an outside wall that gets really damp. I was wondering, what can I do to stop it from getting damp? my clothes are starting to smell funny. I kind of have a lot of clothes, packing them in less tightly will help, right?
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Nov 15, 2011 04:23
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Replaced the cover, found the problem. There was zero seal between the wall and the cover. Replaced with one that had weather stripping I bet it will solve the short out problem. Doesn't fix the whole freezer thing but whatever. We'll see if this sticks.
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Nov 15, 2011 05:02
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Blue_monday posted:I have a closet on an outside wall that gets really damp. I was wondering, what can I do to stop it from getting damp? my clothes are starting to smell funny. Packing them in less tightly & encouraging air circulation will help your clothes smell less but you need to tackle the damp problem, how is the damp coming in?
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Nov 15, 2011 07:12
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kid sinister posted:You'll find a better selection of specialty sizes of CFLs online. You'll need to figure out what size you need first. Are these can lights?
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Nov 15, 2011 16:00
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I like turtles posted:Replaced the cover, found the problem. There was zero seal between the wall and the cover. Replaced with one that had weather stripping I bet it will solve the short out problem. Doesn't fix the whole freezer thing but whatever. We'll see if this sticks. Yeah, no weather gasket would do it! Also, bubble types are meant to be used in wet locations while having a plug inserted. It might be a good idea to put one on your freezer outlet too. And who decided it was a good decision to set up that circuit where if you tripped the circuit in your bathroom, but you have to go outside to reset it? Blue_monday posted:I have a closet on an outside wall that gets really damp. I was wondering, what can I do to stop it from getting damp? my clothes are starting to smell funny. Uhh, nowhere inside a house should be "damp" all the time. That's how mold and mildew grow. Do you own or rent? jackpot posted:Nah, they're just a few small pendant lights in the kitchen and the outdoor lights, which are also pretty small. I'll check around online, I know they're out there. Are those the bi-pin halogen pendant lights? They don't make CFLs that small, but I have seen replacement LEDs for those. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 17:37
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gross posted:The house is like an archaeological dig since the previous owners liked to layer over everything one room at a time instead of replacing it. My house is exactly the same way. When my wife bought it before she and I got together, there were 4-5 layers of flooring in the bathroom, including at least one of astroturf. We have cedar shake siding, like many of the houses in our neighborhood... underneath which is clapboard siding that's in great shape. They didn't take it off, just put the cedar on top. The kitchen has goddamn carpeting in it, with at least one or two layers of asbestos tiling underneath, with beautiful hardwood floors on the bottom. Each layer is firmly affixed to the layer below, so we've just left this hideous red carpeting in the kitchen. There's a small amusement park a couple hundred miles from here, and they have the same carpeting in their haunted house. Let that sink in for a minute.
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Nov 15, 2011 18:07
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What I'm reading here is that your kitchen is probably a good murdering area? Which is sweet, because the knives are, like, right there.
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Nov 15, 2011 18:12
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Where can I buy carpenters shims for leveling up a workup in the uk? B&Q didn't know what I was after - they're horseshoe shaped plastic wedges in various thicknesses.
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Nov 15, 2011 19:29
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Blue_monday posted:I have a closet on an outside wall that gets really damp. I was wondering, what can I do to stop it from getting damp? my clothes are starting to smell funny. You have air/moisture coming in from the outside, a leak from the roof over your closet or you have a water pipe leak. The only fix for the first is tearing down the drywall and putting up a moisture barrier, cure for the latter two is obvious.
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Nov 15, 2011 23:38
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I'm just starting on a project wherein I attempt to use a PC as an aquarium controller. Getting the sensor inputs seems fairly straightforward with a LabJack, probes, and some fiddly bits in between. Given those inputs, the system will need to be able to turn various things (maybe up to 6) on and off, most of which need to be switched at the 120V AC line level. This is where I run into trouble. I've found some products designed for server rooms that communicate over RS232 or Ethernet and control a bank of 6 or 8 relays, which is exactly what I need, but these are over $250 minimum. Then there are the home automation systems. My best half baked plan at the moment is to get a handful of X10 modules and a computer serial interface and hope for the best. I've read bad things about signaling reliability and latency with these things, but surely it can't be THAT bad if they're less than a foot away from each other, right? It seems perverse to resort to power line signaling for this, but I'm not spending $300 to switch six sockets. The last option involves me, a USB->parallel adapter, some opto-isolators, some relays, and disastrous consequences. I really do not consider myself qualified to work with anything more dangerous than a 9V battery, so I'd like to set this one aside. Tell me there's something I'm missing!
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Nov 17, 2011 08:35
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I was reading the other day on make about using a pack of remote control sockets to do this kind of work, using an arduino or similar to "press" the buttons on the remote. The relays & parallel breakout board are also a good idea, the required circuitry is quite simple really.
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Nov 17, 2011 09:01
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Cakefool posted:I was reading the other day on make about using a pack of remote control sockets to do this kind of work, using an arduino or similar to "press" the buttons on the remote. The relays & parallel breakout board are also a good idea, the required circuitry is quite simple really. His whole thing could probably be Arduino-based, ditching the PC. I know I've seen similar projects on the web.
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Nov 17, 2011 14:11
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eddiewalker posted:His whole thing could probably be Arduino-based, ditching the PC. I know I've seen similar projects on the web. It could be, but I'd rather buy a commercial aquarium controller than do my own embedded thing. I want the computer for remote access, logging, and ease of programming. Plan is to use some < $200 crap netbook running Linux. I think I might have found the answer. Cakefool's encouragement about the parallel port idea got me doing some more searches, and I found this kit at various vendors: PC Relay Driver Board My largest load, the HQI ballast, is 1.5A according to the sticker on the side so I should be good, I think... As long as whatever enclosure I come up with doesn't end up starting a fire. EDIT: Just purchased a nice looking 8-relay, USB connected/powered, opto-isolated board made by some guy in Poland. 51 bux shipped. Thanks EBay, I'll remember you next time. kmqat fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Nov 17, 2011 |
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Nov 17, 2011 16:12
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Are you going to be able to run that card as intended? It looks like it hasn't been updated since the mid-90s on the computer side. Do netbooks, or anything in from the last 5 years, come with a parallel printer port anymore?"website posted:With the rapid progress in computer technology many people now have a surplus 8088 or 286 computer just gathering dust somewhere. Any thoughts that it could be given away magnamously to "the kids" are quickly dashed when those same kids immediately recognize the offer for what it is, turn up their noses and bring out their own CD-ROM games and Pentium II, 450MHz computers connected to the Internet. edit: I guess your edit makes it moot. I still find it interesting this is up for sale with a more than a decade old description, ports and software.
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Nov 17, 2011 21:19
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Yeah, the plan was to use a USB->Parallel adapter that can be had for like $15. I don't think there's any protocol you have to speak to drive those things, they just directly map parallel port pins to relays. It would have worked, but this USB thing just looks better all around.
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Nov 17, 2011 21:27
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To be fair, I have both an 8088 gathering dust and a USB-to-parallel dongle, and I'm not even much of a nerd.
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Nov 17, 2011 21:28
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stubblyhead posted:The kitchen has goddamn carpeting in it, with at least one or two layers of asbestos tiling underneath, with beautiful hardwood floors on the bottom. Each layer is firmly affixed to the layer below, so we've just left this hideous red carpeting in the kitchen.
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Nov 17, 2011 21:53
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I would rather burn the house than have carpet in the kitchen.
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Nov 18, 2011 01:02
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wormil posted:I would rather burn the house than have carpet in the kitchen. Lucky for you, these two things are rather hand-in-glove.
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Nov 18, 2011 01:53
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The carpet around the stove probably smells pretty good
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Nov 18, 2011 04:45
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Re: my damp closet I took all the clothes out and gave it a good washing down. I forgot there is a hole in the wall for access to some water pipes, as well my apartment is semi-below ground. My father and I will be putting some vapor barrier in soon and putting the door on the hole like theres supposed to be. thanks goons!
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Nov 18, 2011 20:58
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But doesn't that imply that one of the pipes is leaking and that should be fixed first or is that assumption wrong?
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Nov 18, 2011 21:05
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Might be damp ground if the pipes are just in a crawlspace.
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Nov 18, 2011 21:08
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Cosmik Debris posted:The carpet around the stove probably smells pretty good Unlike the carpet under the washing machine, dishwasher & in front of the sink...
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Nov 18, 2011 23:45
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So when the drill says 3/8 plug, I can fit a 1/4 key chuck into it right?
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Nov 19, 2011 03:39
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