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I'm looking to get a new sound and I really dig the sound of the lead guitar in the solos of this song: http://grooveshark.com/s/Love+On+The+Rocks+With+No+Ice/2fmrT7?src=5 I read that he uses a Marshall 1959SLP with some "extra gain in the curcuit", but I can't afford the 1959 or a guy to modify it. So I'm looking for a way to get near this sound for cheaper and not as loud, as I don't play stadium gigs  What should I try out?
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Aug 31, 2011 18:21
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| # ? May 9, 2024 14:38 |
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Boz0r posted:I'm looking to get a new sound and I really dig the sound of the lead guitar in the solos of this song: There's a whole cottage industry of people making pedals that sound like a Marshall plexi, often called "Marshall-in-a-box". Examples include the PlexiTone, Purple Plexi, Box of Rock, and Dirty Little Secret. Hell, if you tweak around a bit you could probably go cheap and get away with a ProCo Rat or modded DS-1 to get close to that sound.
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Aug 31, 2011 19:09
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Yeah, I've looked at a couple of those, but my current amp is a Peavey Bandit 112 from 15 years ago, and I don't think it's even tubes. I've set my eyes on the Plexidrive from Wampler, but I'm afraid it'll sound like crap on my amp. And I'd like to switch to a head/cab setup in the future. EDIT: He may actually have been playing a Mesa Boogie at the time of recording that song, but I haven't played one so I can't say. Boz0r fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Aug 31, 2011 |
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Aug 31, 2011 20:48
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I found a Fender Bronco amp at a thrift store locally, and am trying to decide if it's worth picking up. I figure that if it is one of the 60/70's era model tube amps, it'd be worth it. However, I'm having a hard time ID'ing the amp from my lovely cell phone picture. Anyone able to help me out?
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Sep 1, 2011 02:06
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fender_Bronco_Amp I'm guessing it's the re-issue (solid state) version: quote:Fender has recently released an amplifier bearing the name "Bronco" but it has little resemblance to the original version beyond using an 8-inch-diameter (200 mm) speaker. The new Bronco is a completely solid state amplifier using integrated circuits to control both the preamp section as well as power amp section of the amplifier. Solid state diodes are used to rectify the input AC mains electricity going into the amp to DC. Current production Fender Bronco amplifiers use no tubes and are housed in a tweed style cabinet constructed of medium density fiberboard and covered in a diagonal tweed fabric similar in appearance to amplifiers produced by Fender in the late 1950s. New production Broncos have the controls mounted on the top-rear of the amplifier unlike the original 'Silverface' Bronco.
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Sep 1, 2011 16:20
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I was wondering if I could get some help with a tube amp issue. I have a River 5512 and it is awesome. The only problem is on some notes there is a high pitched tinny ring or buzz. I'm not really sure where to start to try and figure out the issue. Does anyone have any advice?
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Oct 3, 2011 19:36
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Sweeper posted:I was wondering if I could get some help with a tube amp issue. I have a River 5512 and it is awesome. The only problem is on some notes there is a high pitched tinny ring or buzz. I'm not really sure where to start to try and figure out the issue. Does anyone have any advice? Sounds like it could be a microphonic preamp tube. Turn the amp on and tap each tube lightly with a pencil. If you hear ringing, squealing, etc then the tube should be replaced.
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Oct 3, 2011 19:47
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Narwhale posted:Sounds like it could be a microphonic preamp tube. Turn the amp on and tap each tube lightly with a pencil. If you hear ringing, squealing, etc then the tube should be replaced. If I tap the tubes with a pencil, one of them makes an odd noise. It is kinda of like a pop with an echo/reverb or something. It is hard to describe. If that is the tube, where can I get another tube to replace it?
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Oct 3, 2011 19:56
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Before actually replacing your tubes, I would suggest making sure all the contacts and socket receptacles are clean and free of corrosion. A lot of problems that seem like tube issues are actually a result of poor or intermittent contact.
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Oct 3, 2011 21:08
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The Fool posted:I found a Fender Bronco amp at a thrift store locally, and am trying to decide if it's worth picking up. I figure that if it is one of the 60/70's era model tube amps, it'd be worth it. However, I'm having a hard time ID'ing the amp from my lovely cell phone picture. Anyone able to help me out? looks like one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fender-Bronco-Amp-Tweed-Solid-State-Reissue-SEE-DEMO-/270828091374?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0e9cb7ee If that is the price they want for it I would pass.
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Oct 4, 2011 03:35
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I found this new Bugera amp on their website: http://www.bugera-amps.com/en/products/1960-INFINIUM.aspx Apparently it's an upgrade to their 1960 that's a copy of the 1959SLP. I love the sound of the 1959SLP but I could never afford it and I don't live on a stadium so I wouldn't be able to take advantage of its sound. Has anyone tried this amp or the old 1960, and what did you think of it? According to thomann.de it won't be out in Europe before spring, but I think I'm planning on getting one then. What do you guys think? EDIT: Another thing, it's got four inputs like the SLP, so should I use an ABY switch or something if I want to use more than one?
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Oct 10, 2011 17:35
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1) I've had a tube amp made custom (allegedly a Mesa Rect-o-verb clone) and I'd like to play it at night without going to jail. It has Line-Out for handy use with a cabinet emulator, but the master volume on the head also controls the Line-Out volume, so I can't turn that up without also turning it up through the real cabinet. I've heard of dummy loads, but I'm not sure where to look for one/ how to build one/ what to look for. 2) When I switch channels, the sound cuts off for about a second. It is very obvious and unfortunate, since sometimes I run a loop (out of a loop pedal) through the FX loop and it cuts that off as well. The guy who built my amp said this was by design (he called it a 'mute') so as not to fry the speakers (or was it tubes?) when changing channels. Is there a way around this?
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Nov 7, 2011 18:03
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How dreadful! posted:1) I've had a tube amp made custom (allegedly a Mesa Rect-o-verb clone) and I'd like to play it at night without going to jail. It has Line-Out for handy use with a cabinet emulator, but the master volume on the head also controls the Line-Out volume, so I can't turn that up without also turning it up through the real cabinet. 1.Webber Mini-Mass or THD Hot Plate. Webber makes the best sounding, THD is the most available. Stay away from the Marshall, I've heard nothing but bad things both for tube burn and tone. 2.Whoever built your amp is full of crap. Chances are the mute is there because they had a "pop" when switching that they were trying to cover up in a sloppy way. Don't know how it was rigged though, if it is done with a hard relay then you may be SOL. Take it to a good tech and see if there is something they can do.
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Nov 7, 2011 22:26
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If you do get an attenuator, make sure you follow this advice from Weber:http://taweber.powweb.com/weber/minimass.htm posted:If you are going to dime your amp out and attenuate it down to very quiet volumes then we recommend using an attenuator that is rated for twice the power of your amp's rated output. I fall into the second category with my Mini-mass and would probably never use it at home.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:47
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Anyone know anything about headphone amplifiers? Not sure if that's the correct term or not. I'm looking for something $250 or less that's portable which I can plug my guitar into and listen to an amplified sound on headphones. Haven't found much by searching online. If it's something with both a regular cheap headphone jack as well as the usual recording style headphone jack that would be a cool bonus.
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Nov 11, 2011 03:45
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Most of the headphone tube amps I know of are not really portable and way more than $250, mostly used for listening to vinyl... But I do know that Vox makes a series of mini solid state amps for guitars you might want to check out, not sure about the price though. edit: here's what google gave me - http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...qmQuuxj4u3wKqdw
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Nov 11, 2011 06:41
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It certainly doesn't need to be tube powered. I wasn't expecting that for something portable. The amplug you linked to looks like it might be good, and for the price I guess I might as well try it out. Thanks for the help.
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Nov 11, 2011 16:51
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There is also the Korg Pandora Mini which seems pretty cool. http://www.korg.com/pandoramini
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Nov 13, 2011 07:00
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I bought a little battery amp yesterday for £30, $250 seems a bit...excessive.
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Nov 13, 2011 12:46
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Not sure if this is the place to post this but I have just acquired an old Marshall MG30DFX and the pots are very crackly. I'll need to take the amp apart to spray some switch cleaner/lube in there but I haven't got a clue where to start. Has anyone done this before?
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Nov 13, 2011 18:39
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Thirteenth Step posted:Not sure if this is the place to post this but I have just acquired an old Marshall MG30DFX and the pots are very crackly. I'll need to take the amp apart to spray some switch cleaner/lube in there but I haven't got a clue where to start. Did you already get your hands on Deoxit? Usually the pots have a small hole in the back that you can spray into using the straw/nozzle most of these cans come with. Then you move the knobs around back and forth to get the cleanser moving around so it can work its magic. At least that's the method that has worked for me.
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Nov 14, 2011 01:24
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Philthy posted:There is also the Korg Pandora Mini which seems pretty cool. Looked neat on the specs page but reviews seem to be pretty much all bad.
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Nov 14, 2011 02:54
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TyChan posted:Did you already get your hands on Deoxit? TyChan  I've got nothing. Literally nothing. I got told to get some switch cleaner WITH LUBE but apart from that I know nothing. The main concern I have right now is that the amp case is seemingly an impenetrable fortress and I have zero idea on how to get the head out.
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Nov 15, 2011 00:20
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Thirteenth Step posted:TyChan Check to see if your spray is petroleum-based. Apparently, that stuff eventually collects dust and leaves you worse off than you were before. I've never unscrewed one of those Marshall solid-state heads. If you can get a picture of it, maybe people here can help you out. I tried some light Googling and didn't come up with anything.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:34
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TyChan posted:Check to see if your spray is petroleum-based. Apparently, that stuff eventually collects dust and leaves you worse off than you were before. Here's a picture  I'll have a look around in town today on lunch and ill see if I can find any spray. E: those 4 screws on top must be it, I tried them yesterday but no luck, I'll try it again tonight and give it some abuse. But if anyone knows the actual answer that would be good, I will probably end up breaking something.
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Nov 15, 2011 10:19
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Do manufacturers not make (relatively) affordable single channel tube amps anymore? I've been browsing around the Guitar Center website while waiting for this task to finish and it seems like you can't get a single channel tube amp above 15 watts or so that isn't an expensive retro reissue. I was thinking about this because my friend visited some "amp guru" in LA who was railing against dual channel setups. Also, most of the guitarists I play with seem to get their distortion and overdrive from pedals anyway, so I think having multiple channels is wasted on them. Thirteenth Step posted:E: those 4 screws on top must be it, I tried them yesterday but no luck, I'll try it again tonight and give it some abuse. But if anyone knows the actual answer that would be good, I will probably end up breaking something. Did you try getting the knobs off and spraying from the front? That doesn't necessarily fix everything wrong with a dirty pot, but I've found it can still help.
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Nov 18, 2011 18:26
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It was those 4 screws, amp sounds lovely now. 
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Nov 18, 2011 18:41
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TyChan posted:Do manufacturers not make (relatively) affordable single channel tube amps anymore? I've been browsing around the Guitar Center website while waiting for this task to finish and it seems like you can't get a single channel tube amp above 15 watts or so that isn't an expensive retro reissue. I think the current flavour in amp design is for high-wattage multiple channel or very low wattage (1-15W) in single channels. Like you say, other than the overpriced Fender reissues of the 5F6a and the 5E8a, or the Marshall resissues, it's all channel switchers once you get over 15W. The only 'big' manufacturers doing high-power single channel amps are Electric and Matamp, and you may find them overpriced as well, or just not to taste. I prefer having a single channel setup on the verge of distortion and controlling my gain with a boost pedal, touch, or guitar volume, rather than having two channels which sound totally different from each other If you're after a 30-100W single channel, check out Ceriatone or Weber for kits of the vintage amps at reasonable prices - I'm considering getting a 5F6a kit and modding it to a Matamp, Electric or Sunn Model T.
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Nov 21, 2011 05:21
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Mondrian posted:If you're after a 30-100W single channel, check out Ceriatone or Weber for kits of the vintage amps at reasonable prices - I'm considering getting a 5F6a kit and modding it to a Matamp, Electric or Sunn Model T. I was looking at those Ceriatone and Weber kits. I don't know if my terrible soldering skills are right for that job and, from what I understand, the way most tube amps are set up, you risk fatal electric shock if you aren't careful about how you tinker around once you put it all together and need to diagnose. Are those Sunn, Matamp, and Electric amps similar to the Fender circuits? I thought all those designs were completely different. I don't want to be a killjoy, but you might need to get a ton of modding work to get the kit changed up to be like a Model T or a Green. And unless you're a professional musicians, I would think the money you'd have to spend for an Electric or Matamp is pretty crazy. Isn't it almost $4000 for a single head?
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Nov 21, 2011 18:49
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Sunn Model Ts are about $1500 on eBay. Matamps and Electric amps are $2100-$2400 depending on the model you get. I don't know what kind of sound you're going for but those amps, especially the Matamps and Electrics, are really designed for fuzzed out stoner rock. They're not really a jack-of-all-trades. The Model T is more of a jack-of-all-trades but it's still the same idea. It's loud as gently caress too.
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Nov 21, 2011 19:06
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quote:Sunn Model Ts are about $1500 on eBay. Matamps and Electric amps are $2100-$2400 depending on the model you get. I don't know what kind of sound you're going for but those amps, especially the Matamps and Electrics, are really designed for fuzzed out stoner rock. They're not really a jack-of-all-trades. The Model T is more of a jack-of-all-trades but it's still the same idea. It's loud as gently caress too. Yeah, the Electrics and Matamps are definitely primarily stoner and doom amps, but with the DEEP/FAC/DEPTH control you can tighten them up and get a more normal sound out of it. quote:Are those Sunn, Matamp, and Electric amps similar to the Fender circuits? I thought all those designs were completely different. I don't want to be a killjoy, but you might need to get a ton of modding work to get the kit changed up to be like a Model T or a Green. The 1st gen Sunn Model T preamp is exactly a Bassman with one change - a cathode bypass cap on the 2nd gain stage - long story short it means it breaks up more suddenly then a bassman, and gets you a real deep fuzzy sound. If you buy an assembled Ceriatone kit, you need to find the 820 ohm resistor and solder a small electrolytic cap across it (just watch the polarity). The high voltages aren't much to worry about if you know what you're doing. If you turn your amp off and make sure the reservoir caps are discharged before you do any work, you should be fine. Of course the power amp in the Model T is totally different - it's a 4 6550, 200W beast of a super clean, ultralinear output stage. The bassman's ~60W, 2 6L6 pentode-connected section should be plenty loud enough for anything short of a stadium show. The Matamp topology is closer to an old orange OR120, but with a switchable extra gain stage with a large amount of negative feedback - again, this means more gain than the fairly clean old OR120s and a quite sudden transition into distortion. Weber sell a kit based on the OR120s, and if you fit an extra tube in, you can build a Matamp GT-ish amp. The Electric is somewhere between the two - but information is very hard to find, so this is just taken from what I remember reading around the internet, so take it with a grain of salt. The first gain stage and deep control is the same as an old orange, then the rest of the preamp is bassman, with the phase inverter and power section closer to the old oranges. The genius of the design is that there are a large number of DC-coupled stages, meaning less chance of blocking distortion and 'farting out' when playing extremely bass-heavy riffs. If you start with a bassman, you can change the input stage (minimal changes needed) and the PI (fairly large redo) and you can approximate the electric tone. They also use EL34 or KT88 power sections, but I don't know if it's worth changing the otput transformer and stuffing around the power amp section too much. Alternatively, start with a Weber orange kit, and fit in an extra tube so you can put in the 2nd gain stage, cathode follower and tone stack of a bassman before the phase inverter in place of the Orange's 2nd gain stage and James tone stack
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Nov 22, 2011 02:33
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I have an old silverface Fender from the '70s, early model Musicmaster Bass: 12W, 1x12, 1 Volume, 1 Tone (not the later model with the extra switch). Where I live now there's only one way to insert a plug into the mains - forced by an off-centre ground pin - and even with the amp switched off, the pilot light comes on sort of half bright, kind of like the stand-by light on some amps. If I use an intermediate cord with a different ground config (the amp's plug takes both) and reverse the direction of the plug, the pilot light only comes on when the amp's actually switched on. Any of you know why? And is one way better than the other? I've had this thing for ages and used to have it plugged in so there was no light when the amp was switched off, and it's been running fine. So no big deal, just curious.
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Nov 22, 2011 18:07
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So I don't know where you live or what the wiring is like, but that light shouldn't be on with the power off. The usual setup is that the 3 prongs - live, neutral and earth are connected to the amp, and the power switch connects or disconnects the live wire. Now I'm not an electrician, but I think your live and neutral wires are reversed, either in your house or in your amp. My reasoning is that since neutral and earth are usually connected somewhere - either at your house's supply or at the local substation - if the neutral is disconnected, you can still somewhat develop a voltage since the hot and earth are connected - I'm not entirely sure how it's developing across the transformer, but this is all guesswork at this point. Basically get your amp's power connection and transformer checked, and if that is fine, get an electrician to look at your house wiring.
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Nov 23, 2011 02:09
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Mondrian posted:So I don't know where you live or what the wiring is like, but that light shouldn't be on with the power off. Thanks. I suppose it's the amp then, cause it's been like that all over Europe; can't imagine the house wiring was faulty everywhere. I only started to think about it since I moved to France, cause they have these off-centre ground prongs in the middle of their mains sockets, which leave only one direction to fit a plug. Do you reckon it's okay as long as I make sure it's plugged in - using a power strip with symmetrical ground clips like they have in various other countries - so the light doesn't come on? The amp would still be grounded, cause the plug fits different kinds of european socket types. Or could/should I just inverse live and neutral on the amp? I got it used ages ago, but there's no sign of tampering on the transformer side, and it still has the original, closed (non-removable) plug and cord.
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Nov 23, 2011 14:23
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Underflow posted:Thanks. I suppose it's the amp then, cause it's been like that all over Europe; can't imagine the house wiring was faulty everywhere. I only started to think about it since I moved to France, cause they have these off-centre ground prongs in the middle of their mains sockets, which leave only one direction to fit a plug. I didn't know you were in Europe and I don't really get how those plugs work... All I would do would be to change the power switch to a DPST type and disconnect both power lines from the transformer when it's turned off
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Nov 23, 2011 16:36
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Mondrian posted:I didn't know you were in Europe and I don't really get how those plugs work... All I would do would be to change the power switch to a DPST type and disconnect both power lines from the transformer when it's turned off I'll do that. Thanks!
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Nov 23, 2011 19:09
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I know nothing about amps. I do know I need a better one. After spending years out in the acoustic wilderness, pretty as it may be, I've been drawn back to electric. I'm looking for something that can handle blues, jazz and neo-classical(?) I dunno the genre but rocking out to muse style solo's even if reproducing them properly would require a poo poo load of effects, just something that will get that sort of sound. That is in order of priority, I'm ok with it being good for blues, passable for rocking out, I'm not ok with the reverse. Mainly for bedroom\small jam use, although if it could handle playing in a small venue that would be ace. Got a budget of ~£300 (~$500?) Could stretch if worth it but that requires waiting and I get closer to throwing my current set up out the window with each passing day. Someone suggested a Fender Blues Jr, any one else have any ideas? Or opinions on the blues jr? Also where can I learn about amps?
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Nov 24, 2011 16:41
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£300 can get you a good amp, but its not enough to be picky, and you might have to buy used. Try a peavey classic 30 if you can find one.
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Nov 25, 2011 14:02
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massive spider posted:£300 can get you a good amp, but its not enough to be picky, and you might have to buy used. Yeah I don't mind getting used and I know I'm going to be limited, I was more hoping something existed in that range that already fit what I like to play. Otherwise I was hoping someone could point out the 'best of a bad bunch' choices. Basically right now I'm dumb as gently caress when it comes to getting a nice sound out of an amp, so any advice is good advice.
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Nov 25, 2011 14:06
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Cast_No_Shadow posted:Mainly for bedroom\small jam use, although if it could handle playing in a small venue that would be ace. quote:Someone suggested a Fender Blues Jr, any one else have any ideas? Or opinions on the blues jr? I've played with guitarists at small bars/club venues and the Blues Jr. was more than adequate. I thought they sounded really good and if you're willing to put in the time with pedal tweaking, I think it's pretty easy to get a lot of different kinds of sounds out of those Fender tube amps. Professorbx says that the Pro Junior is a better deal. It's cheaper than a Blues Junior, but lacks a reverb feature and has less EQ control. Since you're starting out, you might find that nice.
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Nov 26, 2011 07:21
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