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Cakefool posted:Unlike the carpet under the washing machine, dishwasher & in front of the sink... poo poo dude, I wish I had a dishwasher. The same carpet does go into the utility room, but it was cut back underneath the washer and dryer, so those are just on bare tile.
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Nov 19, 2011 04:06
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I'm seeking opinions on stripping paint (specifically lead based) There's chemical (both toxic and non), heat gun and infrared heat lamp. Sanding is obviously out of the question I have some 100 year old doors and millwork that Id like to get back to wood
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Nov 21, 2011 02:15
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I do some airbrushing in my basement and have started working with lacquers, so I'd like to build a spray booth vented outdoors using 4" ducts. There is almost zero air movement in my basement. I can build the booth and run the ductwork, but am having trouble finding a fan. Inline fans for 4" ducts are available, but I'm exhausting flammable vapors, so I'd rather go with a squirrel cage fan to keep the fumes from passing through the motor. The problem is, I can't find any cheap 4" squirrel cage fans online. The other option I'm looking at is getting a cheap range hood and taking my chances with a flash explosion from fumes being ignited by the motor. Can anybody point me in the right direction to get a cheap squirrel cage fan with a 4" or 6" port? I'd like a minimum of 100CFM, but even 10CFM would be an improvement over what I'm currently working with, which is zero CFM. Also, is there a way to get a squirrel cage to run backwards? It seems like they all intake from the 4" hole and exhaust out the rectangular 10"x2" hole. It would be a lot easier if I could reverse that so I could connect the rectangular hole to the plenum and run the exhaust outside with 4" ducts.
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Nov 21, 2011 17:45
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If you run the fan before you start spraying you'll never concentrate the fumes enough to ignite them, unless you're spraying lpg through a car paint sprayer. Lots of kitchen extractor fans are also shrouded one-way, meaning no great concentration of gasses hits the motor directly.
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Nov 21, 2011 18:13
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Why not just build an overpressure system? Weather seal the door and walls tight, put the fan on the air intake for the room and have it blow the fumes back into the room, with normal ducting to outside. Only clean outside air will ever hit the fan. You could probably get away with just a 20" box fan for this. Since this is in your basement, put a check valve on the exit outside. You don't want critters climbing into your workspace when you're not there. Since you said 4", a normal outdoor dryer should work just fine. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 18:27
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Cakefool posted:If you run the fan before you start spraying you'll never concentrate the fumes enough to ignite them, unless you're spraying lpg through a car paint sprayer. Lots of kitchen extractor fans are also shrouded one-way, meaning no great concentration of gasses hits the motor directly. I'm kind of thinking the same thing. I think a lot of the theory of spray booths comes from industrial applications where concentrations are much higher and there is a risk of getting sued. If it does blow up, I have a fire extinguisher handy. kid sinister posted:Why not just build an overpressure system? Put the fan on the air intake for the room and have it blow the fumes back into the room, with normal ducting to outside. Only clean outside air will ever hit the fan. You could probably get away with just a 20" box fan for this. There is no air intake for this room. It is my entire basement. An overpressure system would just blow all the fumes upstairs to the main floor of the house. That's not a bad idea, but will not work in my situation. edit: Replying to your edit, I can't weatherseal anything tight. I have a cat door installed on the door leading to the basement that is pretty much a 6x10 hole because the cats refuse to push open the flap so I just removed it. The litter box is in the basement and the toddler is upstairs, so I'm stuck with that arrangement. Also, with the furnace and cold air returns in the basement, I just don't think a positive pressure system is very feasible. Even if it would work, I'd think a simple spray booth exhausting out a 4" hole through a plywood covered basement window would be a lot easier. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 18:55
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I would think that an overpressure system that uses outside air would play hell with an airbrush setup due to the humidity fluctuation. Probably not great for the basement either.
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Nov 21, 2011 19:46
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I'm thinking really hard about this package on Best Buy and saying "gently caress you!" to satellite TV. Does anyone have any experience with these things as far as whether or not they work well in really rural areas? I'm not sure if I want to just trust the reviews on the website talking about disconnecting the satellite dish and putting that antenna in it's place and using the satellite cable network to feed the TVs you're hooking up to. Is there a better place to post this question?
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Nov 21, 2011 21:56
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm kind of thinking the same thing. I think a lot of the theory of spray booths comes from industrial applications where concentrations are much higher and there is a risk of getting sued. If it does blow up, I have a fire extinguisher handy.
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Nov 21, 2011 22:13
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Wade Wilson posted:Does anyone have any experience with these things as far as whether or not they work well in really rural areas? Have no experience with that antenna but here is a resource: http://www.antennaweb.org
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Nov 21, 2011 23:19
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Wade Wilson posted:Is there a better place to post this question? The AV arena, subforum of inspect your gadgets. dwoloz posted:I'm seeking opinions on stripping paint (specifically lead based) Hot air gun every time, wear a mask anyway, put something down to collect the scrapings. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 23:36
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I just pulled up carpet in my spare bedroom to reveal this: I want to refinish it, fill in the nail holes from the tack strip and make it look a little nicer, but nothing special. Is hitting it with the belt sander with finer and finer grit and then some sort of wood finish the best way to do this?
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Nov 22, 2011 00:27
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I just pulled up carpet in my spare bedroom to reveal this: Rent a floor sander from somewhere. Doing that with a handheld belt sander will take a very very long time.
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Nov 22, 2011 01:01
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stubblyhead posted:Rent a floor sander from somewhere. Doing that with a handheld belt sander will take a very very long time. The room is only about 10 feet square. Will look into a floor sander.
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Nov 22, 2011 01:40
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Wade Wilson posted:I'm thinking really hard about this package on Best Buy and saying "gently caress you!" to satellite TV. That one looks exactly like an antenna I had and had issues with. I think I was about 40 to 50 miles away from a tower, and my antenna didn't even register it was there. I got this one and it works great: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3767303 As for the other questions, yes, you could use the pole (not necessarily with the antenna I linked, but most will fit on the sat pole.) As for the wire, you can use it too. Just make sure you disconnect the sat box first since it has power running through the wire that can possibly damage the antenna, and give you a decent shock too.
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Nov 22, 2011 02:04
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stubblyhead posted:My house is exactly the same way. When my wife bought it before she and I got together, there were 4-5 layers of flooring in the bathroom, including at least one of astroturf. We have cedar shake siding, like many of the houses in our neighborhood... underneath which is clapboard siding that's in great shape. They didn't take it off, just put the cedar on top. The kitchen has goddamn carpeting in it, with at least one or two layers of asbestos tiling underneath, with beautiful hardwood floors on the bottom. Each layer is firmly affixed to the layer below, so we've just left this hideous red carpeting in the kitchen. There's a small amusement park a couple hundred miles from here, and they have the same carpeting in their haunted house. Let that sink in for a minute. Yes, not long ago I refinished the wood floor under the plywood, under the two layers of tiles, under the carpet in our kitchen. Thankfully there was only one layer of old ceiling tiles above the ceiling tiles. There are certain internet memes I can no longer enjoy. Wade Wilson posted:I'm thinking really hard about this package on Best Buy and saying "gently caress you!" to satellite TV. If you want to halfass it before spending any money, try one of the DIY coat hanger designs first to see if you can pick up anything at all. For some frequencies (lower-end UHF) they're actually better than a store-bought indoor antenna. I've been using one on my porch since the digital transition, and I can pick up a few local channels from about 30 miles away. gross fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Nov 22, 2011 |
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Nov 22, 2011 04:45
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At my parents' house they bought a big fuckoff antenna from Radio Shack and mounted it in the trussing of the attic (2-story house on bluff, but it's basically above the tree line) and it picks up channels within a 45 mile radius. That's even with splitting it to 4 different satellite recievers for a 6dB+ drop. Seconding checking antennaweb.
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Nov 22, 2011 05:19
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GWBBQ posted:With a furnace in the basement, be really careful and do an airflow test near the furnace to make sure you're not sucking flue gases back into the house. I've spent pretty much my whole life in Minnesota and everybody has their furnace in their basement. I've never heard of any concern about flue gasses. I just made the original post in hopes of finding a cheap place to find a squirrel cage fan and now you've got me completely sidetracked thinking about flue gasses.
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Nov 22, 2011 18:41
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SkunkDuster posted:I've spent pretty much my whole life in Minnesota and everybody has their furnace in their basement. I've never heard of any concern about flue gasses. I just made the original post in hopes of finding a cheap place to find a squirrel cage fan and now you've got me completely sidetracked thinking about flue gasses. That's because flue gases are supposed to rise and go up and out the flue. However, if you have your fan running while your gas furnace or hot water heater currently burning, that fan could push enough air out of your basement to make your flue work backwards and pull that exhaust gas right back into your house.
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Nov 22, 2011 22:45
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You need a giant-rear end fan to do that. Unless you duct-taped your house to protect it from 2003's inevitable chem attacks...
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Nov 23, 2011 00:05
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kid sinister posted:That's because flue gases are supposed to rise and go up and out the flue. However, if you have your fan running while your gas furnace or hot water heater currently burning, that fan could push enough air out of your basement to make your flue work backwards and pull that exhaust gas right back into your house. Oh, okay! I didn't realize it was related to the spray booth idea. I thought he was saying, "You have a furnace in your basement? Dude, you're going to die!"
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Nov 23, 2011 04:49
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SkunkDuster posted:Oh, okay! I didn't realize it was related to the spray booth idea. I thought he was saying, "You have a furnace in your basement? Dude, you're going to die!" Looking over your description again it doesn't sound like there would be any problem, but after narrowly avoiding carbon monoxide poisoning due to a furnace problem and due to an exhaust leak in my car a few years ago I'm extra cautious.
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Nov 23, 2011 05:31
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PainterofCrap posted:You need a giant-rear end fan to do that. I like big fans and I can not lie.
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Nov 23, 2011 05:31
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Splizwarf posted:I like big fans and I can not lie. You're in luck!  Yes, that is a real advertisement from a real company. Back to my original question, does anybody know where to order a cheap squirrel cage fan?
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Nov 23, 2011 17:40
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edit: nm
marchantia fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Nov 24, 2011 |
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Nov 24, 2011 17:22
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SkunkDuster posted:Back to my original question, does anybody know where to order a cheap squirrel cage fan? Why not just cannibalize a bathroom vent fan? It's not a squirrel cage, but they're cheap and will fit 4" ductwork with an adapter.
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Nov 24, 2011 17:42
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kid sinister posted:Why not just cannibalize a bathroom vent fan? It's not a squirrel cage, but they're cheap and will fit 4" ductwork with an adapter. It is mainly a matter of safety. As I understand it, by using a squirrel cage fan, the lacquer fumes will not be passing through the motor contacts, so it would lessen the chance of sparks causing an explosion. Sure, the overall risk is pretty low with a regular fan, but if I can find a squirrel cage fan at a decent price, then it would just make more sense to me to go the safer route. Another option I'm considering is using a range hood. That has the convenience of having the switches, light, and duct adaptor built right in. The downsides to that would be the safety bit I just mentioned. Also, having it installed on the top of the spray booth could cause dried paint dust to fall back down on the stuff I'm painting. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Nov 24, 2011 |
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Nov 24, 2011 20:50
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If I wanted a squirrel cage for cheap I'd go to the junkyard and loot one from a car. On the other hand, you'll need to figure out a solution for AC to DC to power it, there's nothing built in like there would be on a home unit since cars are DC systems. Wonder if it would be practical to do a Venturi tube, where fan pulled air from the outside and vented it to the outside; your hood would be tied into the line downstream from the fan and the Venturi Effect would suck air from your hood. Not sure what the fan size/tube size/effectiveness ratios are there, though. Might need too big a fan or duct to be practical.
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Nov 24, 2011 22:04
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I don't know the correct terminology but if you get a bathroom fan with a leading nacelle the airflow goes around the motor, not through. They are designed this way to prevent the moist air from the bathroom shorting the motor out.
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Nov 25, 2011 00:27
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but the gardening thread seems mostly to be about growing plants, not killing them. What is this, and how can I kill it? I have a gravel side-yard (stupid Texas) and these giant weed things are just growing bigger and bigger. They don't grow in the grass part of the yard. I also can't really pull them up because they're so deeply rooted, and rooted in like a billion places. How do I get rid of it? I was thinking about spraying it down with weed killer, but then I'd just have deeply-rooted DEAD roots in the rocks.  The car is for scale. This thing started out small and I should have pulled it up two months ago, but now it's taking over the side-yard.
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Nov 25, 2011 17:51
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Weed killer. Dead roots in the rocks don't matter & will break down over time.
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Nov 25, 2011 19:39
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Yeah, just blast it with spectracide. You don't want anything growing in the rocks anyway, right?
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Nov 26, 2011 02:42
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I have an older Lennox Conservator III (G16R) gas furnace in my house, and it does this thing where about five minutes after it ignites, it starts and stops and is generally fitful. From reading I've done online, it's the flame sensor. This should be an easy fix, but I can't find the stupid sensor! Does anyone have any experience with this furnaces, or furnaces in general? I found the manual online but couldn't decipher the b/w low res photos.
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Nov 26, 2011 03:54
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I'm making something goofy and ridiculous for a costume out of some old ski goggles I found at a garage sale. It required painting them a different color and doing some stenciling on the lenses. The lenses turned out fine, but the rubbery/soft plastic-y frame that the lenses snap in to is... not so fine. I used some black "all-purpose household spray paint" (this is literally about all the information I can find on the can regarding what exactly sort of paint it is, and I realize that's pretty much zero information and is very unlikely to be of any help) about five days ago and it's still tacky as hell and even comes right off onto my fingers in some spots. The dry time listed on the can is 24 hours, and it's now been about five days. I'm guessing the paint just doesn't like the soft plastic/rubber, somehow? So, my question is, how can I salvage this? These things are basically just meant to be worn for a single night about two weeks from now, so I don't really need a super-duper, long-term fix. I just need it to look halfway decent for a while and also it'd be nice if I knew I wouldn't have a ring of black spray paint stuck to my face from wearing these in a few weeks.
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Nov 28, 2011 00:40
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Dexter Stratton posted:I have an older Lennox Conservator III (G16R) gas furnace in my house, and it does this thing where about five minutes after it ignites, it starts and stops and is generally fitful. From reading I've done online, it's the flame sensor. This should be an easy fix, but I can't find the stupid sensor! Does anyone have any experience with this furnaces, or furnaces in general? I found the manual online but couldn't decipher the b/w low res photos.
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Nov 28, 2011 06:21
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GWBBQ posted:It's a probe that sits right in front of the pilot light next to the igniter. Show me cause none of these objects looks like a flame sensor:    I'm mildly concerned because I had a repairman come out a few weeks back who told me: Repairman: You'll have to replace this thing because it's broken and no one makes it anymore. So buy a whole new system from me. Me: You mean this part? *finds part on ebay* Repairman: Uh. Yeah. Course, I won't install that cause it's used. Best off replacing the system. Want me to clean your flame sensor? $100. That's cheap. Anyway, I wouldn't put it past him to have spitefully jacked the flame sensor while he was reassembling things, so I'm kinda hoping someone can tell me where it is (or supposed to be).
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Nov 29, 2011 00:47
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I cleaned my flame sensor last week and it made a difference right away. My flame sensor was on the edge of one of the jets, and had a single wire coming to it. I guess the chassis was ground? It was a metal probe that was anchored by a single screw. If you find it make sure to secure power to the furnace.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:11
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What's a good source for cable sleeving (the flexible plastic ridged kind where it's cut all the way down the side)? I'm looking for probably 1/2" and 3/4" for a better price than the $2+/foot I can find locally. Seems like a roll of 100 feet or whatever from a supply house should be a bit cheaper than buying pre-cut short lengths in individual packaging from Lowes. I'm having trouble putting search terms together for it, so I am assuming there's a trade name for it.
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Nov 29, 2011 17:01
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Splizwarf posted:What's a good source for cable sleeving (the flexible plastic ridged kind where it's cut all the way down the side)? I'm looking for probably 1/2" and 3/4" for a better price than the $2+/foot I can find locally. Seems like a roll of 100 feet or whatever from a supply house should be a bit cheaper than buying pre-cut short lengths in individual packaging from Lowes. I'm having trouble putting search terms together for it, so I am assuming there's a trade name for it. Either one of these sites should have what you need: http://cableorganizer.com/wire-management/ http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/BraidedSleeving.php search terms: wire management, cable management, cable sleeve
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Nov 29, 2011 17:08
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It's called looming http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/ e: beaten of course
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Nov 29, 2011 17:09
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