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Reichstag posted:Yes, you can. I've long toyed with the idea of making 8x10 slides of photos and presenting them as lightboxes (of course, illumination degrades slides pretty quickly). If slide duplication is relatively perfect (fine grain, good lens, etc) and your slides will be well-cared for you could probably do second- or third-gen copies. Copy the original onto 4x5 masters, then enlarge the masters onto 8x10, then contact print. That would ensure longevity and quality with minimal damage to your original. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Nov 19, 2011 |
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Nov 19, 2011 04:42
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Reichstag posted:Yes, you can. I've long toyed with the idea of making 8x10 slides of photos and presenting them as lightboxes (of course, illumination degrades slides pretty quickly).
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Nov 20, 2011 01:22
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screw on fish eye attachments are cheap, and fun. IMG_0003 by OjaiYoda, on Flickr
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Nov 21, 2011 00:34
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Reichstag posted:Yes, you can. I've long toyed with the idea of making 8x10 slides of photos and presenting them as lightboxes (of course, illumination degrades slides pretty quickly). You might consider using an electroluminscent panel, rather than tungsten or fluorescent fixtures. Advantage: thin, white light, disadvantage: kinda expensive. Also, I think lightbox illumination can make prints look pretty good too.
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Nov 21, 2011 01:40
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I just finished listening to the mammoth 3hr film photography podcast where they went to the PDN in NY, and they had some interesting news regarding Kodak. They spoke with the boss of the film devision, and he stated that they had been seeing a gradual increase in film sales over the last few years, but nothing particularly outstanding until this year. In the first 9 and a 1/2 months of 2011, the photographic film devision has made the same amount of revenue as it had in the whole of 2010, really highlighting the strong pick up in film sales. And the guy who organises the large/ultra large format world wide buy up for Kodak film, said he had orders in excess of $125,000 last year too, and he's defiantly seeing an increase.
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Nov 21, 2011 02:04
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So based on the recommendation on the last page, I looked for Acros 100 on amazon, and it says it will take up to 6 weeks to deliver. Has this been discontinued? I want to try it out, but I don't want to wait until after Xmas. Also getting into the MF game. Open to other suggestions. Is there a big difference between T-max and Tri-X at 400 speed? E: gently caress it, ordered a 5 pack of acros 100 and tmax 100. red19fire fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 03:58
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red19fire posted:So based on the recommendation on the last page, I looked for Acros 100 on amazon, and it says it will take up to 6 weeks to deliver. Has this been discontinued? I want to try it out, but I don't want to wait until after Xmas. Buy film from B&H or Freestyle if you're just buying film.
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Nov 21, 2011 07:09
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red19fire posted:Is there a big difference between T-max and Tri-X at 400 speed? T-Max is what's called a "tabular grain" film. Normally, the silver halide crystals that capture your image are cubic, but Kodak discovered a way to make them flat and, well, tabular. This reduces the grain size for a given speed. So, you'll get a finer grain on T-Max film, but you'll have less wiggle room in development. Also, non-tabular grain films push a little better, in my opinion. I would take Tri-X over T-Max any day. Ansel Adams would too  Ilford's Delta line and Fuji's Neopan line are also t-grain films. I would pick either of those over T-Max, personally. Neopan > Delta > T-Max, in my mind. Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 14:17
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Spedman posted:I just finished listening to the mammoth 3hr film photography podcast where they went to the PDN in NY, and they had some interesting news regarding Kodak. They spoke with the boss of the film devision, and he stated that they had been seeing a gradual increase in film sales over the last few years, but nothing particularly outstanding until this year. In the first 9 and a 1/2 months of 2011, the photographic film devision has made the same amount of revenue as it had in the whole of 2010, really highlighting the strong pick up in film sales. good with rumors of kodak going under this seems like some hope. trix 400 and tmax3200. the two bestest black and white films imo.
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Nov 22, 2011 01:08
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Just a quick question for the rangefinder dorkroomers. How much is a Leica IIIf with a working worth? Also does it make sense to buy one and then throw an russian lens like an Industar 61 on it? There's a guy offloading a body only from a collection and I was wondering how much I should be bidding up to.
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Nov 22, 2011 07:00
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I've seen IIIf bodies go for around $250. It's the M-mount stuff everyone wants.
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Nov 22, 2011 08:12
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Thanks for the advice folks, I have a box of tmax 100 and acros 100 coming in 120 from freestyle. Spectacular pricing. I have all my chemicals mixed to develop my first rolls today, I just want to double check my process here: Developer, stop bath, fixer, hypo clear, water rinse, photo flo, then hang to dry? And I should save the used fixer to be recycled properly, but everything else can go down the drain?
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Nov 22, 2011 19:45
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You don't need stop bath. It does what it's supposed to, sure, but some people (i.e. me) use water instead because it allows the developer to work in the blacks a little longer. But basically, yes. My process is: Developer -- at the time required by your film Water/rinse -- 1 minute Fixer -- 7 minutes (my fixer is getting old, I need to mix up some new fixer) Rinse -- 1 minute Hypo Clear -- 2 minutes Rinse -- 10 minutes Photo Flo -- 1 minute Hang to dry You can re-use your fixer until it runs out. Every few rolls, you can test it out on the leader you cut off from the end of the film to make sure it's still good. T-grain films should be fixed for 5 minutes or so, regular-grain films a little longer. Minor details though 
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Nov 22, 2011 19:52
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QPZIL posted:T-grain films should be fixed for 5 minutes or so, regular-grain films a little longer. Minor details though The other way around, traditional films are 2-3 minutes in fresh fixer, while tabular grain films are 4-5 minutes in fresh fixer. (Although Ilford's docs don't say anything about that, just "2-5 minutes for general purpose film" in their Rapid Fixer, those numbers also quoted in both the HP5+ and Delta 400 papers.)
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Nov 22, 2011 20:53
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Whoops
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Nov 22, 2011 21:24
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Trambopaline posted:Just a quick question for the rangefinder dorkroomers. How much is a Leica IIIf with a working worth? Also does it make sense to buy one and then throw an russian lens like an Industar 61 on it? There's a guy offloading a body only from a collection and I was wondering how much I should be bidding up to. Don't plan on shooting the I-61 wide open or close up. The Russians built their rangefinders with the assumption of a different focal length. It's 52.3mm vs the Leica 51.6mm - close enough for wide angle lenses or uncritical work, but under demanding conditions you may notice the difference in focus.
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Nov 22, 2011 21:35
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QPZIL posted:You don't need stop bath. It does what it's supposed to, sure, but some people (i.e. me) use water instead because it allows the developer to work in the blacks a little longer. Thanks so much, I tried to follow this as close as I could. Fixed for 5 minutes, got a little squirrely with the rinse times (10 agitations, fresh water, Hypo for 20 agitations, fresh water, 20, fresh, 30, photo flo), but everything looks awesome (and properly exposed). I'll try to get it scanned asap. This is addictive, I'm never doing one-hour photo again. How long does drying usually take? I'm using lead weights from my dad's old dark room, baller as gently caress. E: It's raining outside, so 100% humidity. E2: When I poured out the hypo, the liquid was pinkish, but the dried film seems to be purple-tinted. Did I not wash it long enough? the water was clear by the end of the rinsing cycle. red19fire fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 00:59
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red19fire posted:How long does drying usually take? I'm using lead weights from my dad's old dark room, baller as gently caress. Depends on temperature and humidity. Higher the heat, the quicker it'll dry, as long as the humidity is low. Using a (clean!) hairdryer on low, and not too close to the film (keep it moving) can speed it up if you're impatient.
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Nov 23, 2011 01:21
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 what the gently caress is this poo poo and why does it think it has the right to come and sit in my skies? it's not dust. this is acros, developed normally in 1+50 rodinal, as per Paul MaudDib's recommendations. this poo poo also shows up on some of my earlier shots on Pan F and other films in Xtol.
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Nov 23, 2011 10:51
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atomicthumbs posted:
Did you use stop bath on your film?
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Nov 23, 2011 11:43
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atomicthumbs posted:what the gently caress is this poo poo and why does it think it has the right to come and sit in my skies? It looks like Fuji pepper grain, but I haven't previously heard of that happening on anything but their transparency films. If it is pepper grain, it should go away scanned at a lower resolution or wet scanned. ICE would also clean it up if it weren't silver halide. e: vvv Yeah, thus "if it weren't silver halide." Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 16:45
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ICE doesn't work with black and white film. It smudges up everything.
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Nov 23, 2011 16:48
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atomicthumbs posted:
This looks like you got dust on the negative before you developed it, preventing the developer from getting to the emulsion and so leaving tiny white spots on the negative, which show up on the print/scan as black spots. They look too numerous and small to be air bubbles in the developer, but that can also cause the same problem. Best way to avoid dust is to presoak the film for 2 minutes or so before adding the developer. If this is medium or large format film you should do that anyway to avoid surges.
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Nov 23, 2011 17:34
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I usually do a prewash with running water while I mix my developer
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Nov 23, 2011 18:57
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Molten Llama posted:If it is pepper grain, it should go away scanned at a lower resolution or wet scanned. ICE would also clean it up if it weren't silver halide. ICE wouldn't clean it up even if it were a finger print or dust or whatever.
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Nov 23, 2011 19:59
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I'm prewashing my film, and there's no dust in the developing room where I do it. I'm using water as a stop bath, though. Should I pick up a gallon of odorless stop bath (or vanilla stop bath)?
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Nov 23, 2011 20:21
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On a side note, I love that when I develop Fomapan, it pours out as an awesome Ninja Turtle green 
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Nov 23, 2011 20:25
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QPZIL posted:On a side note, I love that when I develop Fomapan, it pours out as an awesome Ninja Turtle green I developed Rollei Retro 80s last Friday and the prewash was blue and the developer or the stop bath or the rinse (I forget which) was purple.
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Nov 23, 2011 21:14
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atomicthumbs posted:I'm prewashing my film, and there's no dust in the developing room where I do it. I'm using water as a stop bath, though. Should I pick up a gallon of odorless stop bath (or vanilla stop bath)? I would definitely get stop bath. I use the Kodak Indicator stop, it lasts forever, has low dilution so 1 bottle will last years. Considering the cost being negligible not using a stop bath is really a bad idea. Try doing all your development (at least the soak and developer mix) with distilled or at least filtered water, if you aren't already. There are a number of complex chemical reactions that can occur that has been known to affect negatives in this way, usually involving the water mineral composition. Also how are you loading your film? You could be getting dust into the film back which would also cause the same problems. It could be some deterioration of the light seals, which doesn't cause light leaks (yet) but is causing fine particles of dust to get into the film back. If it's an old camera it might just need a good cleaning.
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Nov 23, 2011 22:00
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Philadelphia Photographics wants $42 per roll to scan my film  , because I cut it into 5 frame strips for my binder pages.Time to rig up a 'scanner' with my macro lens and flash. E: vvv NOT NECESSARY! GIRLS ON FILM Possibly  D7000 with macro lens shooting on top of a crappy speedlight softboxPaper balanced on top of a speedlightGIRLS ON FILM red19fire fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 24, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 22:29
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Christ, mail it to me and I'll do it for $20 
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Nov 23, 2011 22:30
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I know I am late to the train on this one but, wow I never thought I would see plus-x disappear. I am a bit nastalgic because I learned to shoot with that film  As an aside I haven't shot plus-x in years. For 35mm it's fomapan100 and rodinal 1:50 8min for me. 
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Nov 26, 2011 10:57
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Been using a D40 and then a D90 for a little over four years now and I've really wanted a D700. Because that's not in the budget, I bought a used F100 since most of my lenses aren't DX and would be usable on it. Went out and tested it out with a few rolls of whatever 400 speed Kodak film Target carries and then just went to Target to get them developed. I love the look even with the basic film and developing. Looking forward to getting some different film and trying my own developing.
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Nov 27, 2011 03:32
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Picked up a Canonet QL 17 for 800 yen at a flea market today. Didn't notice the fungus in the lens when I bought it, but should be doable to disassemble it and clean it out. Now to find a battery...
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Nov 27, 2011 10:36
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How long can I realistically expect an unopened bottle of HC-110 to last at room temperature? I found an unopened bottle of HC-110 in my laundry room that has to have been sitting there for about two years probably, the last time I worked with film. Is it worth keeping around or is it most likely useless at this point? I'd love to get back into film at some point in the next few months so I'm starting to clean my old kit.
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Nov 27, 2011 19:40
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Unopened? It's almost assuredly completely fine.
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Nov 27, 2011 19:49
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Yup, completely unopened. That's good to know then. I'd rather buy an extra few rolls of AP for those few bucks. Thanks.
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Nov 27, 2011 19:59
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Martytoof posted:Yup, completely unopened. That's good to know then. I'd rather buy an extra few rolls of AP for those few bucks. Thanks. AP?
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Nov 27, 2011 20:16
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Arista Premium.
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Nov 27, 2011 20:40
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Martytoof posted:Arista Premium. Oh duh. I swear sometimes I think Arista Premium 400 and Arista.EDU (at least in 120) are the best kept secrets in film photography.
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Nov 27, 2011 21:30
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