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revmoo posted:Oops did I just hit buy it now on an 18-button OBC for $60. Whoops.
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Nov 25, 2011 20:30
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| # ? May 24, 2024 02:49 |
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Ahh, wish it wasn't too late but the payment's already gone through. 
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Nov 25, 2011 21:40
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drat! I need to get married or something, because now I have both Time and Money-TM. I found this. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/2678678157.html Please tell me that's a BAD idea.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:07
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So I could probably buy my boss's 2002 Z3 for about ~$3500. It runs fine, I think it needs the valves adjusted, just listening to it, but performance wise it seems fine. Maintenance records seem good, the owner before him took it to the crazy expensive BMW shop locally. Trouble is: 208,000 miles. Should I not even consider this?
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Nov 25, 2011 22:29
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Look up BMW Z3 subframe tearing. gently caress that, even if it was taken care of.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:36
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Lowclock posted:Look up BMW Z3 subframe tearing. gently caress that, even if it was taken care of. Its not as common as you think. Frankly if its at 200k already and not happened yet, it will probably be fine.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:56
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AlternateAccount posted:So I could probably buy my boss's 2002 Z3 for about ~$3500. It runs fine, I think it needs the valves adjusted, just listening to it, but performance wise it seems fine. Maintenance records seem good, the owner before him took it to the crazy expensive BMW shop locally. Trouble is: 208,000 miles. Should I not even consider this? $3500 for that looks pretty drat good to me. Is it the 2.5L or 3L?
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Nov 25, 2011 22:59
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It's just the 2.5L 4 cylinder I think, and I brain farted, it's a 1998. I rode in it tonight, it seems pretty solid except for a few minor things. I think if he puts those M3 wheels on it, I might bite.
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Nov 26, 2011 01:16
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You probably meant 1.9 4 cyl if it's a 98. It uses hydraulic lifters that ride right on the cam lobe, so there's not really any valve adjustment to do.
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Nov 26, 2011 01:27
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BrokenKnucklez posted:drat! I need to get married or something, because now I have both Time and Money-TM. I found this. No can do. That looks pretty good.
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Nov 26, 2011 01:36
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Lowclock posted:You probably meant 1.9 4 cyl if it's a 98. It uses hydraulic lifters that ride right on the cam lobe, so there's not really any valve adjustment to do. Huh, well it sounds a LITTLE rattly, nothing major. Maybe timing chain tensioner or something, who knows. The only other trouble is the gauge cluster and shift knob don't light up right and there's a tear in the passenger seat because it sat unused for years and years and got dry and hard and then when someone sat in it I guess it ripped pretty easily. I think I can probably have it restitched and soften it up. I know the the vast, vast majority of miles on this car are easy highway miles, driving 2 hours to and 2 hours back from someplace out in Missouri, so it's all just flat open highway time. I'll have the bottom side looked at pretty thoroughly for busted welds or subframe cracking I guess, but I think it would be a really nice little second car for short trips and goofing around.
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Nov 26, 2011 01:43
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ExecuDork posted:No can do. That looks pretty good. Crap. Going to go look at it tomorrow then some time, curse you AI!
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Nov 26, 2011 01:54
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AlternateAccount posted:Huh, well it sounds a LITTLE rattly, nothing major. Maybe timing chain tensioner or something, who knows. The only other trouble is the gauge cluster and shift knob don't light up right and there's a tear in the passenger seat because it sat unused for years and years and got dry and hard and then when someone sat in it I guess it ripped pretty easily. I think I can probably have it restitched and soften it up. Check the ongoing subframe thread on the z3 subforum on bimmerforums...its more involved than just looking under the car...only the most hosed of cars will show damage from below.
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Nov 26, 2011 03:21
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Are those even covered under warranty anymore? I know before I bought my ZHP and did a little research, and it seems like the coverage was over for the e46, despite it pretty much being a major design failure. I believe the proper inspection process involves complete removal of the rear subframe and cleaning the body to check for cracks.
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Nov 26, 2011 03:31
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Crustashio posted:Are those even covered under warranty anymore? I know before I bought my ZHP and did a little research, and it seems like the coverage was over for the e46, despite it pretty much being a major design failure. Z3s never had a recall...some people were able to harass BMW into paying for it to be fixed, but it was definitely a YMMV basis. It wasnt a redesign which would have prevented it from happening again, just new sheetmetal.
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Nov 26, 2011 03:46
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BraveUlysses posted:Z3s never had a recall...some people were able to harass BMW into paying for it to be fixed, but it was definitely a YMMV basis. It wasnt a redesign which would have prevented it from happening again, just new sheetmetal. Ah, I did not realize the z3 was not part of that recall. In that case I'd probably avoid it, but the 200k mileage would scare me off first. So many bushings and hoses to replace...
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Nov 26, 2011 14:40
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Crustashio posted:Ah, I did not realize the z3 was not part of that recall. In that case I'd probably avoid it, but the 200k mileage would scare me off first. So many bushings and hoses to replace... Pretty sure all that stuff has been done. I need to check up on the service history, but the guy who owned it before my boss was a maintenance freak who routinely took it into the most expensive independent BMW shop in town to have everything done. edit: the shop that wanted $500 to do valve covers and something like $1500 to replace front struts, etc.
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Nov 26, 2011 20:54
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Yeah, buy it!
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Nov 26, 2011 21:03
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AlternateAccount posted:Pretty sure all that stuff has been done. I'm getting a pretty strong vibe that you really want this car, and are just searching for a solid excuse to convince yourself not to buy it. By all means, get it inspected by somebody you trust. This subframe issue seems to be about the only deal-killer for you, so make sure the inspection covers whatever reasonably needs to be done to convince you it is / is not a problem. Then buy it and put some pictures here for us to be jealous of.
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Nov 26, 2011 22:02
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You know, looking at the 18-button OBC conversion it actually looks like a really easy job. You just tap like 15 wires. Since I was just back there for the remote start 3 months ago it is all familiar. Pulling the cluster is the worst part because you have to wedge it between the steering wheel. Anyone know of switches/leds that would look good on the blanks by the cigarette lighter? I want to wire a few things up. revmoo fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Nov 27, 2011 |
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Nov 27, 2011 14:47
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My car wouldn't start during my lunch break and I had it towed back to the (boat) shop I work at after we tried using a start assist and jumping it using another vehicle. We checked the fuses that would apply and checked the battery with a meter. Fuses were good and the battery is holding the correct voltage and amperage. When the key is turned, you can hear one click coming from the engine, it doesn't try to turn over or anything. I'm thinking we need to check the wiring to the starter first off, but is there anything else common that I can check as well? Car is an '04 330Ci.
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Nov 28, 2011 23:10
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Crap. Going to go look at it tomorrow then some time, curse you AI! Looked. The price is too high, it needs some help. I also feel this big wave of disappointment from the 528i to the 540i. I want my rocket ship sedan dammit.  Actually the 6 in an E39 feels really at home. It felt balanced and fun. But the car needed pretty much anything rubber replaced. Hoses, bushings, belts.... its OK, I can at least pass on this one.
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Nov 29, 2011 03:23
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I recently bought an E46 2001 325xi and I love it more than I thought I would. It's my first car after riding strictly motorcycles for 6 years and I'm blown away by how much fun it is. My only question is what does everyone do for iPod integration? I've done some googling and it seems like the Dice Electronics Mediabridge is the go-to device. Anyone have any personal experience with how well they work/how easy they are to install?
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Nov 29, 2011 04:14
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Does yours have the 5th gear detent bushing issue? (Shift into 5th and the shifter doesn't come back to the center afterwards)
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Nov 29, 2011 04:31
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Looked. The price is too high, it needs some help. I also feel this big wave of disappointment from the 528i to the 540i. I want my rocket ship sedan dammit. The 5 series with the I6s get the much better steering rack. I was very close to purchasing a 540i (e34 or e39) but the recirc. ball steering did it in for me. I ended up going the complete opposite direction and bought an e46 instead. I think a 6spd 530i sport package would be a fantastic car, if you can find one anywhere.
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Nov 29, 2011 04:36
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I drove a friends modded 2001 M3... and it was glorious! No, I didn't have anything constructive to add to this thread.
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Nov 29, 2011 05:04
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Gymkhana for BMW 1M. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lEvpnKRLDO4
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Nov 29, 2011 06:48
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b0nes posted:Gymkhana for BMW 1M. So a 1M drifting through fake walls, and a 1M drifting atop a fake building.
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Nov 29, 2011 07:49
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Fake walls but OH GOD DID YOU HEAR THAT MOTOR I will not lie at 0:10 I got a chill.
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Nov 29, 2011 08:09
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Beach Bum posted:Fake walls but OH GOD DID YOU HEAR THAT MOTOR Came here to post this.
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Nov 29, 2011 10:46
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Anything to lookout for on high mileage 330 cars? There's a 02' 330ci sport that I can probably snag for around 6800 bucks but the mileage is 135k...
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Nov 29, 2011 18:37
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nerdrum posted:Anything to lookout for on high mileage 330 cars? There's a 02' 330ci sport that I can probably snag for around 6800 bucks but the mileage is 135k... That is not high mileage. Any maintenance records? Ideally you'd like the thermostat to have been replaced, as well as some attention to the suspension (control arms & bushings & dampers) as well as routine oil changes that are hopefully under the 15k mi interval.
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Nov 29, 2011 18:46
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Sterndotstern posted:That is not high mileage. Any maintenance records? Ideally you'd like the thermostat to have been replaced, as well as some attention to the suspension (control arms & bushings & dampers) as well as routine oil changes that are hopefully under the 15k mi interval. I think he has a few maintenance records but what he's said, so far is: "The car hasn't really needed any maintenance aside from oil changes". He recently did a tune-up at 120k with records to verify.
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Nov 29, 2011 18:51
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Cooling system, Vanos rattle, suspension bushings, DISA valve, etc. If he's just done oil changes you will be quite surprised how much poo poo there is to do. Watching those 1M videos just makes me excited for when 135s/335s drop in price a couple years down the road. Hopefully BMW didn't prevent you from doing too much of your own maintenance on them.
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Nov 29, 2011 22:49
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I'm about a month into owning a 2003 325xi with ~80k miles and I just got the thing back from the shop last week from getting the idler/tensioner on the alternator replaced. Halfway through my morning drive today I get the service engine light and acceleration starts sounding really throaty and low-pitched. I brought the car back to the mechanic to see what was going on. The only two codes that were thrown were for the thermostat (slow warm-up time) and for an O2 sensor that's slowly on its way out. I can't see how either would explain the acceleration strangeness. The shop says it can't reproduce the problem I was experiencing after driving it around for a little. Anyone got a clue?
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Nov 29, 2011 22:58
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Got my 18 button OBC in and wired up. Took about 3-4 hours. I think this is the fourth time I've had to pull the gauge cluster. Next time I'm taking the wheel off. Everything (except code for obvious reasons) seems to work. I'm getting a check coolant message at startup but then it goes away and I get check control ok. I think it's probably because the obc hasn't been configured for my car yet. I'll try setting it up tomorrow with the right hex values for my car. Also did the fuel pump. If the fuel filter on the early E36's is a 2 hour job, this is a 10 minute job. Extremely easy to do.
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Nov 30, 2011 03:01
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Crustashio posted:Watching those 1M videos just makes me excited for when 135s/335s drop in price a couple years down the road. Hopefully BMW didn't prevent you from doing too much of your own maintenance on them. Aren't all the new I-6s even missing a dipstick? I hate AT cars without tranny dipsticks enough, the lack of an engine dipstick is absurd. That said, the performance sure is appealing.
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Nov 30, 2011 03:03
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revmoo posted:Got my 18 button OBC in and wired up. Took about 3-4 hours. I think this is the fourth time I've had to pull the gauge cluster. Next time I'm taking the wheel off. Is it possible to do the E36 filter without ripping out all the lines and replacing a million hose clamps? I had to give up on doing mine because I couldn't see a way to get the metal clamp off with all the fuel lines running right beneath it. The e30 is definitely nice and easy. Even on my euro one with it stuck in the engine bay it's still a 20 minute job. wolrah posted:Aren't all the new I-6s even missing a dipstick? I hate AT cars without tranny dipsticks enough, the lack of an engine dipstick is absurd. Yeah I think BMW did away with dipsticks, but if it's anything like my friends older merc you can get a pretty exact reading of the oil level using the OBC.
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Nov 30, 2011 04:05
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wolrah posted:Aren't all the new I-6s even missing a dipstick? I hate AT cars without tranny dipsticks enough, the lack of an engine dipstick is absurd. No dipstick but it can read oil fairly accurately. If the sensor dies then you would probably get a warning right away and then it's time to fix the sensor and change the oil anyways. It's also supposed to check the oil quality according to various internet sources but I don't think it does anything like that. Just make sure it gets changed every 8000km or so.
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Nov 30, 2011 04:22
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Crustashio posted:Yeah I think BMW did away with dipsticks, but if it's anything like my friends older merc you can get a pretty exact reading of the oil level using the OBC. Accuracy isn't what bugs me, it's reliability. If my dipstick breaks (and I've *never* seen or even heard of a dipstick breaking), I can clearly see that it's broken and replace it with ease. If the oil level sensor breaks (which being at two busted camshaft position sensors in four years, is entirely believable), I may not have any way to tell (though I assume the ECU can detect most common failures) nor do I expect that it's in an easily accessible location. wolrah fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 04:25
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