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I just bought a bank-owned house and it's got some problems; I can fix most of them on my own, however I have one small one that I need some advice on. It's this:  This is from my insurance company's four-point inspection of the property. They are now demanding that I fix this or they're going to cancel my homeowner's insurance. Seems easy enough, right? All I have to do is find the right size cover to fit over the panel, thereby covering the exposed wiring. My problem is that I can't find one (a cover, that is). I can find plenty of new boxes, but I'm not going to mess around with this thing and risk electrocution. Anyone know where I can get a cover? It's 10 x 16 inches, by the way.
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Nov 30, 2011 00:01
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Does the box have a brand stamped on it, like "Eaton"? If you have that, you can look through their website/catalog or call an electrical distributor and have them look in their catalogs. e: Cover it with aluminum foil and scotch tape. *BAM* no more exposed wires. taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 00:11
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King of the Cows posted:I just bought a bank-owned house and it's got some problems; I can fix most of them on my own, however I have one small one that I need some advice on. Steal one from a neighbor. Or call an electrician, they probably have a supply catalog.
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Nov 30, 2011 00:21
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Thanks. I was hoping I could do this without an electrician, as it seems pretty simple. I don't know who makes it, but I'll look for a manufacturer next chance I get.
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Nov 30, 2011 15:46
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You could also buy a box and transfer the cover over
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Nov 30, 2011 22:26
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That breaker looks rather dated; if it's as old as it looks, replacement deadfronts are very likely no longer available. You may be able to make a professional-looking deadfront out of sheet metal, but it honestly wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the whole thing with a new enclosed breaker.
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Dec 1, 2011 02:49
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I have a sinking feeling. Actually I have an undermount sink issue, and would like some commentary about how concerned I need to be. I have a newer house (2009), and silestone countertops and a fuckoff heavy (155 lbs) undermount kohler cast iron sink, with a 1/2" - 3/4" positive relief. (the countertop edge is set back from the edge of the sink) After about a year in the house, the caulk around the edges of the sink started to fall out (into the sink). Installers came back and tried to recaulk it 5 times, with acrylic caulk, unsuccessfully. Finally the builder replaced the sink, and it turned out it had a warped flange. When they replaced the sink, they did not remove the counter top, somehow they managed to get the old one out and the new one in, and they used 100% silicone caulk. Sink appears to be secure. yay 10 days later Wife hears a "clink" while opening the cabinet door, and we see the hardware (bracket/corbel and rail with adjustment screws) hanging from the front edge. Since the installers could not place the brackets on the top of edge of the cabinet, the had secured the brackets with only one screw each intp the front and back edges of the sink. They also screwed pine 2X2 blocks into the 1/8" pressboard that makes up the back wall of the cabinet in order to "support" the sink, since they were unable to attach the manufacturers brackets securely. I pointed this out to the installers and they have now told me that they will come by and just remove the brackets, since "the brackets weren't really doing anything". Is it likely that the sink will remain attached to the countertop being held only by the silicone? I am dead certain the wooden blocks will not do anything (2X2 pine, with 2 drywall screws going into 1/8" pressboard), and the manufacturers brackets are hanging from tiny wood screws. I know silicone is awesome (Aquariums for last 30 years), but I am pretty sure the dynamic load of dishes, and garbage disposal will overwhelm it eventually. Am I likely correct in this assessment?
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Dec 1, 2011 03:54
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OK, please don't hesitate to yell at me if there is a better place to post this on here. I want to find out why my house smells vaguely but persistently like poo poo. I bought a rowhouse in South Philadelphia a year ago (built 1920, some additions in the 1940s and very little real upkeep since the late 80s). I've noticed a persistent but not overwhelming smell that is kind of musky and funky in my house on and off since I bought it. It has only really been noticeable during the fall and winter, and only occasionally then (especially when I leave for more than a few hours and come back). It's most noticeable on the 1st floor and in the basement, but I can't really localize it to any particular area. Here are some possible issues: - Former owners had multiple dogs. - Former owners were messy and did no maintenance for 10+ years. - The 4 or so feet of pipe from the house to the sewer were identified in the inspection as being old and possibly problematic. All of the other pipe in the area has been replaced within the past 2 years, and there have been no signs of issues with it. - The house of the elderly couple right next door (we share a wall) is in very bad shape. - The sidewalk in front of the next door neighbor's house has sunk below the level of the other sidewalk and the street by 2 inches or so. - There has been intermittent work on the gas line in front of the house over the past year. No gas smell, though. - The furnace is extremely old (like early 50's vintage). Works fine, though. OK, if anyone has any ideas, let me know! I'm tired of buying these Yankee candles!
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Dec 1, 2011 08:20
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Spitball Trough posted:I want to find out why my house smells vaguely but persistently like poo poo. If you mean literally like poo poo/sewage then the drainage lines would be the first thing to inspect but it should be fairly obvious if they are leaking unless the problem is inside a wall (this happened in my kitchen). If you mean like poo poo/bad then it could be rotting wood. I have the same problem by my front door and have yet to find the source.
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Dec 1, 2011 08:52
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some_admin posted:Is it likely that the sink will remain attached to the countertop being held only by the silicone? This will not hold, get the cowboys back in. If they won't do a proper job for no extra money just get rid of them before they destroy anything else. Can you take a photo of the underside, illustrate your description a little please?
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Dec 1, 2011 13:46
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I'm finally getting around to repairing a light fixture in my laundry room that had the glass busted out of it by a previous owner. I'm curious if anyone has any ideas on how to replace the glass.  I've already looked over this bad boy and there's no marking of a manufacturer or model number; so I guess I'm stuck with measuring the opening and ordering a piece of replacement glass and figuring out some clip to hold it in. My main question is this: This fixture uses some 12volt, 10-20watt halogen bulbs. Can I get away with cheaper tempered glass, or do I have to use a ceramic glass product to deal with the heat coming off the bulbs? I'm hoping to use a frosted piece of glass so that the light diffuses softly out of the fixture, and as far as I can tell, no one makes a frosted, ceramic glass product that isn't insanely expensive. Jake Gittes fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 14:50
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Cakefool posted:This will not hold, get the cowboys back in. If they won't do a proper job for no extra money just get rid of them before they destroy anything else. Can you take a photo of the underside, illustrate your description a little please? bracket hanging off =  "support block"  cowboys indeed
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Dec 1, 2011 15:50
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Jake Gittes posted:I'm finally getting around to repairing a light fixture in my laundry room that had the glass busted out of it by a previous owner. I'm curious if anyone has any ideas on how to replace the glass. You're probably better off buying a new fixture. They're pretty cheap.
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Dec 1, 2011 17:59
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wormil posted:If you mean literally like poo poo/sewage then the drainage lines would be the first thing to inspect but it should be fairly obvious if they are leaking unless the problem is inside a wall (this happened in my kitchen). If you mean like poo poo/bad then it could be rotting wood. I have the same problem by my front door and have yet to find the source. The smell is a little bit like poo poo, but not exactly. What does rotten wood smell like? When I moved in there were some pretty serious issues with leaking around the shower, which is another possibility. The smell's not coming from the bathroom, though.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:13
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some_admin posted:"support block"  Its that thing just toenailed into the cabinet carcass?
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Dec 1, 2011 18:33
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Spitball Trough posted:The smell is a little bit like poo poo, but not exactly. What does rotten wood smell like? When I moved in there were some pretty serious issues with leaking around the shower, which is another possibility. The smell's not coming from the bathroom, though. That might just be sewer gas. The water in drain traps evaporates over time. If it's a drain that isn't used very often like a basement floor drain, that water can evaporate low enough that it leaves an air gap for sewer gas to escape into the house. Have you made sure that all of your drain traps are full? After you do that, you might want to pour a little bit of bleach into each one. That will kill anything in the trap water. Also, ventilate your basement and first floor, then keep the doors closed afterward. That will help you find the source of the smell once it starts appearing again.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:59
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some_admin posted:cowboys indeed I'm afraid you have 3 options: 1: do a proper repair, pulling the work surface off, fitting the sink properly with the correct hardware in the right place. Potentially a lot of work & cleanup but the best solution. 2: improvise a repair, perhaps screwing battening or angle iron to the underside of the work surface to support the sink. Less intrusive, probably quite awkward in that tight space. 3: do nothing, maybe the sink won't fall off but if it does it'll smash the waste disposal & then need a proper repair. 4 edits, screw this keyboard cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 19:03
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stubblyhead posted:
Cakefool posted:I'm afraid you have 3 options: Yeah, toe-screwed into the "wood" on the cabinet rear. They might as well have used stickers with pictures of screws imho. I will brace it substantially from the (relatively substantial) MDF cabinet sides, or through the floor of the cabinet to the actual kitchen floor if I can't get any satisfaction from the builder. The long range plan is replace the countertops (silestone sucks, already chipped three places) as well as the stupid pop-up viking rangetop (already stripped the gearbox once, 4 weeks with no vent yay). Sometimes you get what you pay for, in this case apparently I paid for the location of the house and the LOOK of the house.
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Dec 1, 2011 19:30
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kid sinister posted:That might just be sewer gas. The water in drain traps evaporates over time. If it's a drain that isn't used very often like a basement floor drain, that water can evaporate low enough that it leaves an air gap for sewer gas to escape into the house. Have you made sure that all of your drain traps are full? After you do that, you might want to pour a little bit of bleach into each one. That will kill anything in the trap water. There's water in all the drain traps, but I did pour a good bit of bleach into the basement floor drain. I figure that can't hurt, since the smell is slightly stronger in the basement (although not right by the drain).
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Dec 1, 2011 23:37
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Spitball Trough posted:The smell is a little bit like poo poo, but not exactly. What does rotten wood smell like? When I moved in there were some pretty serious issues with leaking around the shower, which is another possibility. The smell's not coming from the bathroom, though. Smells like decay, like rot but also vaguely like sewage. I thought the main house drainage line was leaking sewage but it turned out the sink drain had been leaking inside the wall and had rotted out the floor under the cabinets. The trouble with an old house is that it could be a combination of things. ***** Quick question ***** My house phones use NiMH AAA 630 mAh rechargeable batteries. The only ones I could find at the store were NiMH 1000 mAh. Will that hurt anything? A quick Google says they will be fine, just double checking.
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Dec 2, 2011 01:22
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No, they just hold more charge so they'll last longer.
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Dec 2, 2011 01:32
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Spitball Trough posted:OK, please don't hesitate to yell at me if there is a better place to post this on here. I have been in thousands of these homes. My territory includes South Philadelphia. If it is actually the smell of human fecal matter, then it could be: --your vent is blocked. That is the round or iron square 4" grate embedded in the sidewalk in front of your house, towards or at the curb. If you can't find one, then sorry, the sidewalk was laid over it (you should also find a round or square panel for your water shutoff within a few feet of it. Both should be inside the property line). If the vent is loose or missing, it's probably blocked with street debris (cups, cans, paper, dead kittens, etc). --- that "problematic" line section is probably original cast iron and they left it alone because going through the wall and out to the curb trap is a pain in the rear end & expensive. There may be cracks in that section of pipe which are emitting sewer gas. -- your neigbor's sewer line collapsed years ago and their basement is leaking raw sewage, They can't smell anything because either they're used to it because they never, ever leave the house or because it's masked by the crap odor from their Depends, or frankly, they don't care. This happens more frequently than you'd like to think. I have found lakes of poo poo in basements. The sidewalk there is collapsed because their sewer lateral has been leaking & undermining the soil there for years. If it smells "musty" or vaguely rotten, you are probably getting groundwater in your basement, Congratulations, you bought a house in a backfilled swamp/riverine environment! If your basement is unfinished (rubble & mortar or brick walls covered by concrete pargeting) then you'll notice areas where the pargeting is darker, or flaking, or has fallen off in chunks. This is normal  If your basement is finished in drywall, it's likely any or all of this is lurking behind your drywall. If there is any access to unfinished areas, such as the back of utility room or closet pushouts, especially on the side that the sewer lateral runs on, get a flashlight (and a dose of intestinal fortitude) & have a look. You can PM me for more. I can also check it out. They're cool houses, but they're old, and they either have roof leaks or plumbing problems. Or crappy neighbors who haven't done maintenance since LBJ was president. Water is thine main enemy, though. (edit) I see you mentioned a floor drain. That is indeed tied into your soil line, in case you were wondering. In fact, it sounds like your line runs under the floor slab. Floor drains are an access to that. You also mentioned that the poo poo odor is vague. Sometimes when fresh water accumulates, it can get that way. It usually starts out smelling like cat piss (especially if you have carpeting in your basement) then moves on to a more crap-type odor within a couple of weeks. (edit2) Those Yankee candles will leave soot all over your house after about six months or so. You'll see it when you move a picture or change a clock battery. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Dec 2, 2011 |
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Dec 2, 2011 04:01
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Dexter Stratton posted:Show me cause none of these objects looks like a flame sensor:
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Dec 2, 2011 05:42
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PainterofCrap posted:Useful Stuff! Thanks very much. I will check for the drain in the sidewalk tomorrow. The groundwater is definitely another possibility. There is some occasionally darkness and some flaking of the pargeting, which is in an area where the smell is more noticeable then by the floor drain. I definitely am not getting any water or dampness in the actual basement, though, and the smell is not really happening when there is a lot of rain. Can it just be wafting through the basement walls? Could sewer gas do that? An issue at the next door neighbor's house is another real possibility. I'll try to compare notes with the people on the other side of them next time I have the chance.
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Dec 2, 2011 06:47
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Spitball Trough posted:Thanks very much. I will check for the drain in the sidewalk tomorrow. The groundwater is definitely another possibility. There is some occasionally darkness and some flaking of the pargeting, which is in an area where the smell is more noticeable then by the floor drain. I definitely am not getting any water or dampness in the actual basement, though, and the smell is not really happening when there is a lot of rain. Can it just be wafting through the basement walls? Could sewer gas do that? An issue at the next door neighbor's house is another real possibility. I'll try to compare notes with the people on the other side of them next time I have the chance. Masonry is absorbent, so yeah, it could be groundwater wicking up from underneath your home, as well as from your neighbor's homes. In addition to plumbing leaks, they may also have groundwater issues that will and do wick or leak into the adjacent homes. It's not uncommon for the elderly (especially those with little money and no nearby (or non-shiftless) younger relatives) to abandon the basement, either due to physical infirmity or by choice. God alone knows what's going on down there in such cases. By the way, Philadelphia has an odd code requirement that's actually illegal nearly everywhere else: your roof downspout is tied into your sewer lateral using what's known as a "rain leader," which is that oval-shaped cast-iron drain grate set into the slab at the back patio (either at the left or right corner of the rear wall, possibly around the corner if you have a li'l alleyway) or directly into a cast-iron bell at the front of the home, that your downspout terminates into, and which means that during a true Baptist downpour, thousands of gallons of roof drainage are blasting through your basement line! Nice! Especially if your line has some type of partial blockage, at which point it all winds up backing up through your cracked lateral/basement toilet/floor drain/washing machine drain standpipe or laundry tub sink and flooding your basement! Yay! Keep your lines clear and store NOTHING of value directly on the floor. Elevate EVERYTHING at least four inches, unless it's in a Tote or is otherwise waterproof. On the other hand, the last two years have been the wettest I can remember in a decade, and if this is all you;re getting, that's not too bad. Also: save your rear end this winter. Get a roofer up there to check that the seams around your skylights, pipe jacks or whatever else is sticking through the roof are good, and that the scupper (the metal gutter box at one corner, that is at the top pf your downspout) is clear of leaves, twigs, tennis balls, dead kittens, etc. so that the roof can drain. If snow is forecast, it wouldn't hurt to chuck a bunch of Ice Melt in the six-feet or so around the scupper, since the damned things freeze up first and turn your roof into a swimming pool; at eight pounds per gallon, that's a lot of weight, and your roof seams (or any weak spots) will pop & leak. Once the water's gone (usually into your upstairs rooms and down through your expensive IKEA wall cabinets) and the sun hits the seams long enough, they will magically re-seal themselves, driving you nuts trying to find the source. Flat roofs are fun like that, and the roofers tend to be crooked as hell since there's no way for you to check their work. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Dec 2, 2011 |
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Dec 2, 2011 15:52
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You have a story to tell about kittens.
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Dec 2, 2011 17:52
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wormil posted:***** Quick question ***** It may not really matter much for your phone, if you dock it ever day, but I think if you're going to get NiMH you might as well go that route.
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Dec 2, 2011 20:29
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That's the Secret of NiMH
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Dec 2, 2011 20:51
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I have 2 quick questions for the gecko project thread I have going. I just wanted to post it here to see if I could an answer back asap. question 1: Are there any hidden hinges that would work in this scenario, or other recommendations? I can't find any. question 2: For the below, should I cut the wood anyway in particular to ensure it does not impede the doors swinging open? I am building, for lack of a better term, 2 separate skirts between the levels of the condo. Each skirt will have two doors in the front and one on either side with an open back. I plan on putting some MDF or other 1/4-1/2 thick wood on the front of some angle iron supports and will use this same material for the doors. Here is an mspaint that I hope gets the image across clear enough:  The best way I can think of to do this is with a generic barrel hinge, but I don't think I can do it in a way that hides the knuckle. Because the door is being attached to the veneer, which is flat with the door, I can't see any options for hidden opening mechanisms that would work for this. Any suggestions?
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Dec 2, 2011 20:54
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Cosmik Debris posted:That's the Secret of NiMH 
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Dec 2, 2011 22:03
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Nesbit37, cabinet hinges, as in kitchen cabinets. You can get smaller versions if standard are to big.
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Dec 2, 2011 23:49
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PainterofCrap posted:
Yeah, I am very aware of this, as there was a major basement leak due to it when I moved in, as well as in my previous rental. That's all fixed up now, and for much less than the discount they gave me because of it! Upon closer inspection, I'm pretty sure that the smell is due to moisture in the front wall of the basement. It tends to get damp during heavy rain, and when I moved some stuff to take a look at it last night, there was dampness along the base of the wall. I've never noticed the cat urine smell from a leak (which I know well from a leak in my last place), but that may have been camouflaged by the fact that I've got the cat boxes right by that wall. As you said, my basement is really not bad, since we've been getting record rain. I was able to reduce the smell (which is as bad as it has ever been) to a reasonable level by running a charcoal filter fan for a few hours. Is there anything I can do to the wall to keep it in check without spending much money? Would spraying it with bleach water do anything?
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Dec 3, 2011 00:36
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Spitball Trough posted:Yeah, I am very aware of this, as there was a major basement leak due to it when I moved in, as well as in my previous rental. That's all fixed up now, and for much less than the discount they gave me because of it! If it's on the side with the neighbors with the collapsed sidewalk, and it occurs whether there's precipitation or not, then most of it is probably their sewage permeating the ground and soaking through your wall. Call PWD (Phila. Water Dept), tell them you have a mold issue in your basement and suffer from a health issue such as asthma (bumps you up the list a bit) have them come out, show them the sidewalk & the dampness in your basement, and they should write up an order for the neighbor to get their lateral & curb trap dug up & replaced. In the meantime, run a small fan at the wall and place a regular dehumidifier somewhere in the basement, preferably over your floor drain so you don't spend what feels like the rest of your life emptying the stupid tub every hour or two. While the drying may cause further wicking through the front wall, it should knock the odor down. Also, spray the affected walls with a 5:1 water:bleach solution in a regular Windex sprayer. Do not use straight bleach; in fact, if you mix it right, you'll barely smell anything. And just mist it, don't saturate it. *** I see hundreds of stray cats all over the city, and have seen more than my share of dead ones. I did rescue this tiny bag of bones in the middle of Hicks St two years ago: (taken ten minutes after I picked her off the street):  And Mehitabel, today:  Not quite five pounds. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Dec 3, 2011 |
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Dec 3, 2011 01:06
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I'm looking to paint this GoPro housing all black. I believe the material is polycarb plastic, but google is giving me a variety of different methods. What's the best way to do this? I'm thinking sanding it down, then apply some primer coat.. however I'm also hearing about matt clear sealment. 
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Dec 3, 2011 07:18
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So I'm trying to replace a cabinet hinge that broke recently. I managed to track down the make/model that was used on the cabinet. But, I've run into two problems: 1. It appears there are plastic fittings/anchors in the original drill holes that I can't get out. I tried putting the screw back in and wiggling/pulling, but that isn't working. 2. The hinge, while its the same size as the original and fits exactly, has different drill hole placements from the original. The new hinge lines up partially outside of the original drill holes. Oh God, help me DIY sub-forum I'm horrible at this stuff. 
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Dec 3, 2011 20:34
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Versus Boredom posted:I'm looking to paint this GoPro housing all black. I believe the material is polycarb plastic, but google is giving me a variety of different methods. Scuffing the surface then using a paint for plastic like Krylon Fusion I think would be best http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/ (They claim no prep necessary)
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Dec 4, 2011 02:01
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Whip Slagcheek posted:So I'm trying to replace a cabinet hinge that broke recently. I managed to track down the make/model that was used on the cabinet. But, I've run into two problems: Do the old toothpick trick. Get yourself some toothpicks wood glue, or if you got any kids, use some school glue, it's almost the same stuff. Fill the holes with glue, then start jamming in toothpicks one at a time. Keep jamming new ones with their pointed ends into any holes until you can't fit any more in. Use a hammer to give them an extra tap in. You should be able to break them off at the surface by snapping them to the side. Then let the glue dry overnight. The next day, cut and sand the toothpicks flat and you've got a new surface to drill into. The key to drilling a new hole that overlaps an existing one is to use smaller drill bits and make a pilot hole at a slight angle away from the existing hole. Slowly step up to the size you need.
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Dec 4, 2011 02:02
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kid sinister posted:Do the old toothpick trick. Get yourself some toothpicks wood glue, or if you got any kids, use some school glue, it's almost the same stuff. Fill the holes with glue, then start jamming in toothpicks one at a time. Keep jamming new ones with their pointed ends into any holes until you can't fit any more in. Use a hammer to give them an extra tap in. You should be able to break them off at the surface by snapping them to the side. Then let the glue dry overnight. The next day, cut and sand the toothpicks flat and you've got a new surface to drill into. Great, thanks. I'll hit the store tomorrow and try this. Any tips for getting the previous fittings out?
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Dec 4, 2011 02:36
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Dental pick, if you can find one. Harbor Freight's usually got 'em, and they have a thousand uses. Well, at least a hundred.
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Dec 4, 2011 03:35
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Can anyone recommend a not-so-expensive but reasonably reliable smallish size chainsaw model? Not gonna be used for anything heavy-duty; mainly topping off tough dense evergreen hedges, cutting firewood to size, and perhaps some occasional tree taming.
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Dec 4, 2011 14:16
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