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Seat Safety Switch posted:Canadian dealers do not have Extra-S; in my experience (with four dealers), they will put in Motul or some other gear oil. I thought that was standard fill for 6 speeds?
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Nov 30, 2011 09:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Canadian dealers do not have Extra-S; in my experience (with four dealers), they will put in Motul or some other gear oil. drat, and my sister was just here. could have sent up a bucket. so if you went to a dealership up there and said you wanted to order some would they not do it? jamal fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 09:10
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CitizenKain posted:I have an unusual issue with my Subaru, and I wanted to pitch what happened in here just to see if anyone has any ideas. For reference, I've got a 1999 Legacy SUS with just shy of 100k miles on it. 2 years ago I had both head gaskets replaced, along with a bunch of other maintenance done while the mechanics had it opened up (slight engine knock fixed, some oil leaks, etc). I'd have the alternator checked. When the alt goes, it also turns the brake light on. Sounds like your alt is on it's way out slowly. Definitely check for AC ripple, more than 0.1v can ruin your electronics. At around 100k in my 96 legacy, the brushes went in my alt around 100k.
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Nov 30, 2011 13:19
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Bud Manstrong posted:Wait, there's an 07-09 stock radio that has an Aux-In? I thought they just played MP3 CDs. I've been debating the Jazzy kit for a while, but the silent CD sounds like a pain. Do you have a part number by any chance? P-204UH
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Nov 30, 2011 14:32
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dag01 posted:Similar case here. I've had my 03 wrx for about 2 months. Recently took the back seat out to do some cleaning. Took the car for a drive, immediately noticed a high pitch noise when the car was at low rpms. No performance issues, just annoying. Is this completely normal and I'm only noticing it because the back seat is out, or is it something else? Could just be the fuel pump...
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Nov 30, 2011 14:46
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jamal posted:so if you went to a dealership up there and said you wanted to order some would they not do it?
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Nov 30, 2011 15:37
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I win at luck sometimes. I just got a Type 7 JDM STi Stock Catback for free. Now I'll have a full 3" all the way back and be completely catless stage 2! While I'm under there putting on new parts I'm going to do a trans service as well since I'm at 130k. I'm going to pick up a gallon of Extra-S from the dealer, should that be enough to cover trans and diff?
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Nov 30, 2011 16:30
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I forgot the capacity of the trans and rear diff though I wanna say I bought 5 quarts when I did it. By the way My trans and rear diff loved Redline Lightweight shockproof
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Nov 30, 2011 20:22
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chrisgt posted:I'd have the alternator checked. When the alt goes, it also turns the brake light on. Is that something that would show up by swinging by Autozone and having them get the code from the car's sensor thing?
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Nov 30, 2011 22:06
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CitizenKain posted:Is that something that would show up by swinging by Autozone and having them get the code from the car's sensor thing? No but they can test your alternator and battery.
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Nov 30, 2011 23:04
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although you usually need to remove the alternator for them to put it in their machine. which is easy- power wire, a connector, and two bolts. I had one die on me in utah once, and to find an autozone, remove the alternator, test it, and install the new one tool less than an hour. oh, and extra-s only comes in 5-gallon drums.
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Nov 30, 2011 23:09
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Coworker had a OBD2 scanner and took it out to the car, got back a P0500, which reads as Vehicle Speed Sensor A, and P1540, which reads Manufacturer Controlled Vehicle Speed, Idle Control and Aux Input. Which seems reasonable as the speedometer definetly stopped responding during the power issue. Its blowing snow right now outside, so I'll see what I can do check it out tomorrow. Thanks for the responses everyone, it helps ease the worry. Although this did get me looking at a 2012 WRX.
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Nov 30, 2011 23:49
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a bad alternator (or just a loose ground or power connection) can cause it to throw all sorts of codes because the voltage is going to be wrong for everything.
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Nov 30, 2011 23:54
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Yeah when you get a bunch of unrelated error codes like that you should be looking at a root cause like bad grounds. The chances of all those different things going wrong at once are small compared to the chance that the insulation on some wiring in a 12 year old car has worn off somewhere.
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Dec 1, 2011 00:04
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Lord Gaga posted:I forgot the capacity of the trans and rear diff though I wanna say I bought 5 quarts when I did it. By the way My trans and rear diff loved Redline Lightweight shockproof I have Redline in it now, but I'm still having to waggle and/or double clutch into 1st, so I'm going back to OEM for an interval. You're a FL guy, know any good people who can weld? I forgot to mention that the exhaust is in 3 pieces. Edit: The dealer sells it by the QT, but you have to bring your own jug. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 01:04
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gently caress now you guys have me paranoid, I don't think my transmission fluid has ever been changed in 160k miles and it's like shifting a bag of rocks. I've always brushed it off as "it's a Subaru transmission" but dangit bobbeh those gears ain't right.
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Dec 1, 2011 04:37
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law abiding rapist posted:gently caress now you guys have me paranoid, I don't think my transmission fluid has ever been changed in 160k miles and it's like shifting a bag of rocks. I've always brushed it off as "it's a Subaru transmission" but dangit bobbeh those gears ain't right. The 5-speed can go a VERY long time making bad noises and crunching gears before it actually bites the dust. Friend of mine had an outback transmission that crunched gears and made bearing noises for 115k miles before it started to be a problem.
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Dec 1, 2011 05:26
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bung posted:Would anyone happen to know the torque specs for the front and rear brake caliper mount bolts for an 09 WRX? German spec.
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Dec 1, 2011 05:28
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chrisgt posted:The 5-speed can go a VERY long time making bad noises and crunching gears before it actually bites the dust. Friend of mine had an outback transmission that crunched gears and made bearing noises for 115k miles before it started to be a problem. Reverse grinds about 50% of the time and first gear can be impossible to engage if you're moving at all, bad syncro. I've been double clutching into first for at least a few years now, and it hasn't seem to gotten any worse or better. Might just let sleeping dogs lie.
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Dec 1, 2011 06:12
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toplitzin posted:I have Redline in it now, but I'm still having to waggle and/or double clutch into 1st, so I'm going back to OEM for an interval. Ultimateforce on this board works for Mazworx, that said he may not want to weld your exhaust.
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Dec 1, 2011 08:39
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Crossposting to the video thread but wow. Epically ugly GC8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSsTzvRTShk&feature=feedu
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Dec 1, 2011 09:06
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law abiding rapist posted:Reverse grinds about 50% of the time and first gear can be impossible to engage if you're moving at all, bad syncro. I've been double clutching into first for at least a few years now, and it hasn't seem to gotten any worse or better. Might just let sleeping dogs lie.
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Dec 1, 2011 09:16
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My 1st worked as described basically completely not able to be shifted into when not stopped. Changed out fluid for redline lightweight shockproof. Now I can use it above 20mph.
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Dec 1, 2011 09:32
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My 1st gear is hard to shift into when stopped and I've had my foot on the clutch for a second or two so that the transmission spins down. Shifting into second and then first makes it much easier. BUT, if I slam my foot on the clutch and then go right into first in a hurry, it slides right in smooth as butter but definitely makes an unpleasant grinding noise. Bad synchro/time for new gear oil on my 124k mile 5sp?
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Dec 1, 2011 10:00
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What fluid is in it? Read the post above yours.
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Dec 1, 2011 10:03
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Lord Gaga posted:What fluid is in it? Read the post above yours. Could be original, could be changed, I dunno. I bought it in april or may and the PO had documentation of the head gaskets changed and the timing belt already done but no mention of gear oil. I have no clue. People rave about extra-s and say that anything else will ruin your transmission, then other people say get the grimmspeed cocktail and others say that will ruin the transmission, and then other people still have their own anecdotes. I don't know what to believe anymore and don't know enough about oil and whatever quirks subaru transmissions may bring to the table to make an informed decision.. Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 10:10
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Worn syncros are worn syncros. I think in general non synthetics and/or thicker fluids will aid shifting. I have like 40-50k miles on my fluid. I think its valvolene. I should probably change it soon.
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Dec 1, 2011 10:31
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Quote and edit are two different buttons.
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Dec 1, 2011 10:43
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Amandyke posted:German spec. You don't want the caliper brackets really tight. They don't really hold much load, they sort of just sit there and make sure the caliper doesn't go anywhere.
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Dec 1, 2011 12:38
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Not being able to shift into first gear when the car is moving is fine. It is nothing to worry about. They all do it. Period. If it is hard to go into reverse, put it in first and rock the car forward a hair then try reverse again. That is also fine and nothing to worry about. As for gear oil. Subaru Extra S > Redline Shockproof > any old gear oil. I have read the uncle scotty thread and some people claimed the mix blows up gear boxes, so I'd stay away. And your driving is more likely to break your gear box than what gear oil you run. When the box is done, it's done. The non-believers can come see my broken subaru gearbox collection.
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Dec 1, 2011 13:04
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My OBS' 5MT sounds like either baseball cards in bicycle spokes or a straight cut gearbox depending on the load. It even moans and thrashes if you rev the engine in neutral with the clutch engaged. A master tech I talked to indicated that there's a bearing near the rear end of the gearbox that is starved of oil when the car is driven hard cold and that the design of the 5MT's lubrication passageways is terrible (from what I understand, oil must first flow over another bearing upstream before it can feed this one in the rear, but I may have misunderstood him). He also indicated that it's not a particularly big job for him to replace this worn bearing and doesn't entail him taking the entire transaxle off the car, so I might give it a shot and see if he can fix it for me on the cheap instead of having to swap in my spare gearbox. Even with this problem, I have driven that box hard (5000 rpm launches on dirt, etc) and not seen a degradation in 6000km of mostly competition driving - in fact it's improved. Knock on wood. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 17:07
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Cards in bicycle spokes is a lot like what may transmission sounded like when the center diff went. Though, mine didn't do anything when you revved in neutral.
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Dec 1, 2011 17:27
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NuclearFusi0n posted:Double clutching into 1st is SOP on the 5MT as far as I know. Blame the design; it's not really a lubrication issue. By all means, though, you are probably due for a gear oil change at 100+k miles. I would change the gear oil, but I wouldn't expect 1st to get any better. Double clutching is fun anyways. The worst is if I ever let someone who doesn't know how to double clutch drive it and they just jam it into first as hard as they can going 5mph 
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Dec 1, 2011 17:44
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bull3964 posted:Cards in bicycle spokes is a lot like what may transmission sounded like when the center diff went. Though, mine didn't do anything when you revved in neutral.
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Dec 1, 2011 17:49
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So I haven't had a chance to check out the exhaust system or turbo with soapy water this week, so I'm going to try to get it in to a shop to get it checked. I'm in AZ, and would rather not take it to Camelback Subaru (awful yelp reviews) and if its just for a check/quick and hopefully cheap fix I'd rather not drive 20 miles out of my way. Anyone have suggestions for more performance-oriented shops in the Tempe area? There is a place called Autohaus Service, and they have Subaru information on their site, but it seems like a more high-end shop. The car is most certainly out of any sort of warranty (73k miles on it).
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Dec 1, 2011 18:32
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law abiding rapist posted:The worst is if I ever let someone who doesn't know how to double clutch drive it and they just jam it into first as hard as they can going 5mph
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Dec 1, 2011 18:36
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Yeah, 1st and reverse suck even when these cars are new. Reverse is unsyncroed, which doesn't help matters.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:51
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Lord Gaga posted:My 1st worked as described basically completely not able to be shifted into when not stopped. This is the major reason why I refuse to let other people drive my car. I know it comes across as dickish, but it's impossible to explain the nuances of these weird rear end transmissions to people who aren't used to them.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:54
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kylej posted:This is the major reason why I refuse to let other people drive my car. I know it comes across as dickish, but it's impossible to explain the nuances of these weird rear end transmissions to people who aren't used to them. Yep, the only other person I let drive it is my brother because he normally drives a 1999 2.5RS. Which does the exact same thing.
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Dec 1, 2011 19:42
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kylej posted:This is the major reason why I refuse to let other people drive my car. I know it comes across as dickish, but it's impossible to explain the nuances of these weird rear end transmissions to people who aren't used to them. It works now because I put redline in it. Redline rocks.
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Dec 1, 2011 20:51
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