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Underflow posted:Can anyone recommend a not-so-expensive but reasonably reliable smallish size chainsaw model? Not gonna be used for anything heavy-duty; mainly topping off tough dense evergreen hedges, cutting firewood to size, and perhaps some occasional tree taming. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...ollow&cId=PDIO1 The saw itself comes off, so you can use it as a small electric chainsaw, too- nice and small and light and works great for small stuff. Beware that a 10" chainsaw will struggle to cut anything serious. I've taken 12" trees apart with it, but took multiple passes, and was clearly pushing the limits of the saw. It works well for cutting up branches, though. As well as trimming off those branches in the first place. * oversized truck driving on the road in front of my house snagged the aerial catv line and tore it from the pole and cox refused to replace it until I trimmed some branches so they could raise it. NO TV AND NO INTERNET MAKE GROVER GO CRAZY AND BUY CHAINSAW! grover fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Dec 4, 2011 |
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Dec 4, 2011 14:43
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grover posted:If VERY small is all you need, I bought a tiny electric chainsaw mounted on a 10' extensible pole to do some emergency tree trimming* a couple years ago. And damned if I don't use the tiny-rear end stinking thing all the time. Hey, that looks great. Perfect for the hedges, which is really the main reason why I need one; those drat evergreens grow like mushrooms and I'm tired of all the overhand work with heavy clippers and machete, falling off ladders and stuff. And if it can handle tree branches it should be okay for the firewood too. Thanks for the tip.
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Dec 4, 2011 16:03
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My mother's basement is a wreck and I want to get it cleaned up so it at least isn't a health hazard. It's been flooded and there were some previous plumbing problems, so the drywall pretty much all needs to come out. My concerns are these: 1. Will stripping out the drywall (there's no insulation between the drywall and the outer walls, which will be remedied when new drywall is hung) and hitting the wooden studs with a bleach solution take care of the existing mold, provided the moisture problems are addressed? The floor is some terrible sealant that appears to have been poured directly over packed dirt in some places, I don't think it can grow anything. 2. The basement doesn't extend to the perimeter of the house. One of the front walls of the basement is basically a wall of drywall, then all the dirt under the front of the house. There is a quarter inch gap between the drywall and the floor, which allows dirt to creep into the basement. This is ridiculous. Raising the house and extending the basement isn't an option. How do I seal this wall, and will I likely be buried alive if I tear down the drywall in that section? 3. I don't want to have an asthma attack and die. Is an N95 mask and a pair of goggles appropriate protection while doing the demo?
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Dec 5, 2011 04:04
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I'm planning on creating a wall piece that will be a scaled-down map of the NYC subways, with each stop being a light corresponding to the line's color (red, green, blue, etc). There's 500-some stops to cover, so I'll need a lot of lights. I was thinking of using a bunch of small 3mm LEDs, but I haven't worked much with them. Is this a logical choice? I'm assuming that many LEDs might be a pain to power. Is there any good reading material that might help me get started using them?
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Dec 5, 2011 21:46
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lessthankyle posted:I'm planning on creating a wall piece that will be a scaled-down map of the NYC subways, with each stop being a light corresponding to the line's color (red, green, blue, etc). There's 500-some stops to cover, so I'll need a lot of lights. Well a quick google search for 'using LEDs' brings this right up: http://www.instructables.com/id/The-complete-guide-to-using-LEDs/ Make sure you use current limiting resistors before each LED (or string of LEDs) or they will burn themselves up if you aren't using a current controlled power source. And I'll tell you from personal experience that using LEDs is probably the best way to do what you're talking about. Any other light source will use a lot of energy and thus create a decent amount of heat (mess around with a christmas tree lit with regular incandescent lights for a bit and you'll see what I mean; there's a noticeable temperature increase within a few inches of it). Wiring 500 LEDs by hand might be fairly time consuming, I cant really offer any tricks for the best way to do it. That sounds like a pretty neat project though, you should post some pictures or drawings of what you're gonna do. I'm interested in what you use to control when they light (assuming they arent all lit all the time).
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Dec 5, 2011 22:22
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I think the efficient way to do it would be to do batch jobs with breadboard strips so the solder's always going, and assembling the boards together afterward. e: \/\/\/ haha herp derp, of course 
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Dec 5, 2011 |
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Dec 5, 2011 22:33
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Cosmik Debris posted:Wiring 500 LEDs by hand might be fairly time consuming, I cant really offer any tricks for the best way to do it. Splizwarf posted:I think the efficient way to do it would be to do batch jobs with breadboard strips so the solder's always going, and assembling the boards together afterward. You guys are forgetting what time of year it is. Lessthankyle, go buy some LED Christmas lights. You can cut up the strands into the appropriate lengths. The only problem is that Christmas lights are 5mm, not 3mm. For that many LEDs you will have to break them up into separate branches. Try this website. Calculate all of your different color LEDs separate, since different colored LEDs need different voltages to light up. Use a DC wallwart to power your creation. The higher the voltage you use, the more LEDs you can put on each branch. The longer the branches, the less wiring you will have to do. Add up all of the current draws from each array you create, that will give you the total amperage that your power source will need to put out. Last thing: check out the Learning Electronics thread here. They can teach you the basics of wiring, and it lists some good sites to buy parts.
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Dec 5, 2011 22:49
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haha man I forgot all about LED christmas lights. Im so used to incandescents.
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Dec 5, 2011 22:52
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This seems like the best place to put this question. I was doing some CAD work off of a random practice PDF, when suddenly I come across this. I've never seen that notation and no matter how hard I peer it looks like it's just pointing at a flat bolt end. And the other parts eschew any threading, so it definitely isn't any hosed up thread notation.
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Dec 6, 2011 02:06
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It looks like it's pointing at a slight taper in the shaft leading to the flat end. That's about all I can think of.
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Dec 6, 2011 02:09
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recon_etc posted:I've never seen that notation and no matter how hard I peer it looks like it's just pointing at a flat bolt end. And the other parts eschew any threading, so it definitely isn't any hosed up thread notation. grover fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 02:33
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grover posted:That's standard chamfer notation, though best practice is to call out the dimension before the angle. I think it just looks flat because the scale of the chamfer is so small compared to the other dimensions. If it were in CAD and you zoomed in, it would be pretty clear. Apparently my brain just completely failed to recognize it when they're reversed. It looks right in CAD when I put it in, too. Thanks.
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Dec 6, 2011 02:51
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I am making a wheelchair for a disabled pet. Where can I get some lightweight and easy to roll wheels around 3-6" diameter? Home Depot doesn't seem to have anything between casters for chairs and wheels for lawnmowers. Would some sort of aluminum frame be lighter than a 1/2" pvc frame?
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Dec 6, 2011 03:36
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CampingCarl posted:I am making a wheelchair for a disabled pet. Harbor freight has a decent selection of wheels. Or try northern tool if you have one near you.
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Dec 6, 2011 04:01
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lessthankyle posted:I'm planning on creating a wall piece that will be a scaled-down map of the NYC subways, with each stop being a light corresponding to the line's color (red, green, blue, etc). There's 500-some stops to cover, so I'll need a lot of lights. There is a product I think it's called cool wire? that you might want to look at, basically it's write coated with a clever semiconductor, attached at one end to a tiny black box. It glows a set colour, consumes very little power & is real ready to work with, have a look at that. Alternately christmas lights is a great idea.
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Dec 6, 2011 06:58
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You're thinking of electroluminescent wire, or EL Wire. It's nice stuff, just can't be bent much (it goes dead in bent spots tighter than about 90 degrees).
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Dec 6, 2011 15:44
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lessthankyle posted:I'm planning on creating a wall piece that will be a scaled-down map of the NYC subways, with each stop being a light corresponding to the line's color (red, green, blue, etc). There's 500-some stops to cover, so I'll need a lot of lights. Might want to have a look at fiber optics too. Then you would only need one of each light source and run individual strands of fiber to each stop you want lit up.
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Dec 6, 2011 15:56
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We're trying to figure out what to do with our basement walls. The basement doesn't leak as far as I know, and there's no musty smell, so I don't know why the paint is flaking off, bubbling up, and peeling. Perhaps it's just really old paint. It's probably from the 60's.  How do I remove the old paint, and then what should I re-paint it with?
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Dec 6, 2011 17:28
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That is moisture, and it's probably precipitating lime out of the mortar (if you're finding salt-like crystalline fuzz under the paint). If that's as bad as it gets, I would scrape or wire-brush off as much as possible to a solid surface paint can adhere to, and paint it with a moisture-locking product such as Drylok. The problem you may run into in the future is paint bubbling off in other areas where it's currently tight, and removing paint from masonry is a PITA.
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Dec 7, 2011 00:03
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So it seems our crappy house is sinking and this has caused the door frame to shift so that there is a gap at the top of the door like so: Are there any cheap ways to fill this gap? I don't own this house, but my landlord is a hassle and it is getting cold and I'd rather just fix it myself if that's possible.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:49
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thepedestrian posted:So it seems our crappy house is sinking and this has caused the door frame to shift so that there is a gap at the top of the door like so: Foam tape http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/foam-tape/tapes/adhesives-sealants-and-tape/ecatalog/N-85b
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Dec 7, 2011 02:53
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Sorry for the tinyurl link, nothing dodge behind them. http://tinyurl.com/78fry6g http://tinyurl.com/7te8c46 I wish to create a similar visual effect to this, with a similar lighting level. Would it be possible to create something similar using a rasterbator generated image and then painting over it with something ? Or is the only way to get something decent to hire an artist to paint? How would you go about finding someone? I have a 33 x 2.5m (110ft x 8ft) wall that I want to cover with propaganda inspired (lighter hearted photoshops of propaganda posters) for use in a bar. I remember the Red Square Bar in Las Vegas, and the awesome look that they achieved with similar imagery. Cheers  EDIT: Might be best to see if a billboard company can print something. Aus_Pol fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 10:17
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Theres companies that do that, its called Large Format Printing. These companies do banners and advertisements, depending on where you live there should be at least one place that does it. Most of them will print just about anything, and I did a quick google search for an online one that did up to 60"x100" prints. Could be a little expensive though.
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Dec 7, 2011 14:21
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If you know someone at an engineering firm, civil or mechanical, they probably have a large format printer for printing plans. If you go to a printshop, they will probably be able to laminate it as well. You can do what you want with rasterbator (make the dot size small), but it won't look very good due to the multiple pieces of paper. In my opinion, it is good enough for college use, but probably not a bar.
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Dec 7, 2011 16:34
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thepedestrian posted:So it seems our crappy house is sinking and this has caused the door frame to shift so that there is a gap at the top of the door like so: Shim the bottom hinge Edit: Alternatively, lightly chisel out the mount point for the top hinge peepsalot fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 19:18
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Thanks for the LED info, there's some good info in that thread. I've looked over some instructibles stuff before, but not all of it looks that well thought-out. I'll look into the christmas lights, too. A final tally is 534 stations, so yeah, that's a lot of wiring.
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Dec 7, 2011 20:49
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U.S. Barryl posted:We're trying to figure out what to do with our basement walls. The basement doesn't leak as far as I know, and there's no musty smell, so I don't know why the paint is flaking off, bubbling up, and peeling. Perhaps it's just really old paint. It's probably from the 60's. Seems like moisture as already pointed out but wanted to mention that if its indeed from the 60s, it likely contains lead and needs to be dealt with safely
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Dec 8, 2011 02:48
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I have a bunch of horizontal rods, about a centimeter in diameter, that I want to roughly mount between two tall, fixed vertical rods, about a half centimeter in diameter. It will basically look like a ladder. The lose rods have absolutely no mounting points on the ends, they're just flat. I was thinking expoying two little loops on each end and then just a little of wire to tie it to the verticals. It's lightweight and it doesn't have to be load-bearing or anything. Issue is: What the heck could I use as loops (or half loops...something U shaped)? It has to be small, but with enough contact area to bond well enough and still fit the vertical rod between the two holes/mounts. Some small hex nuts maybe? Is there something better I could find at a hardware or craft store?
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Dec 8, 2011 03:09
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ExileStrife posted:I have a bunch of horizontal rods, about a centimeter in diameter, that I want to roughly mount between two tall, fixed vertical rods, about a half centimeter in diameter. It will basically look like a ladder. Can you drill holes in them? Just drill holes in either end of the horizontal rods and then a hole for each of those in the verical rods and use heavy guage wire and a pair of pliers to hold them together.
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Dec 8, 2011 03:54
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ExileStrife posted:I have a bunch of horizontal rods, about a centimeter in diameter, that I want to roughly mount between two tall, fixed vertical rods, about a half centimeter in diameter. It will basically look like a ladder. Get some monofilament line and attach them with square lashings. If you don't know how, ask a boy scout next time one comes around selling popcorn our wrapping paper.
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Dec 8, 2011 04:03
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Cosmik Debris posted:Can you drill holes in them? Just drill holes in either end of the horizontal rods and then a hole for each of those in the verical rods and use heavy guage wire and a pair of pliers to hold them together. Unfortunately I can really only glue onto the horizontal rods since they contain electronics. The verticals are free reign..I can easily get wire through those. It's just a matter of attaching that wire to the horizontal part. The horizontal rods also go between the verticals -- there's no overlap. The square lashing would have been a good idea otherwise.
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Dec 8, 2011 04:21
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ExileStrife posted:Unfortunately I can really only glue onto the horizontal rods since they contain electronics. The verticals are free reign..I can easily get wire through those. It's just a matter of attaching that wire to the horizontal part. Why not just make little hanger brackets on the vertical rods? Another idea is to drill some holes through your vertical rods, run some eye bolts through them, then glue some hooks onto the ends of your horizontal bars. Also, your description is terrible. Take a photo, please.
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Dec 8, 2011 08:35
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ExileStrife posted:Unfortunately I can really only glue onto the horizontal rods since they contain electronics. The verticals are free reign..I can easily get wire through those. It's just a matter of attaching that wire to the horizontal part. There's no gluing involved at all in a lashing, it's all knots. Here, check this: http://www.ropeworks.biz/reader/squarlas.pdf e: If you wanted I suppose you could put a dot of hot glue on the ends of the line to keep it secure, but it wouldn't really be necessary I don't think.
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Dec 8, 2011 09:30
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Aus_Pol posted:EDIT: Might be best to see if a billboard company can print something. If you don't find anything local, I can print it on cotton canvas and ship it to you.
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Dec 8, 2011 10:09
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Yeah just use like 18 or 20 gauge wire and lash it. Lashings are surprisingly sturdy.
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Dec 8, 2011 23:22
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 Yeah, should have done a picture first. I should just back up an say this is all based on IKEA stuff -- meaning to add lights (INREDA strips) to a DETOLF case. The strategically twisted twist-ties are doing the job of what I'd prefer a slightly more decorative and permanent attachment would do. It by no means needs to be "perfectly" aesthetic.
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Dec 9, 2011 00:10
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Drive a tiny screw into the upright, get some silver air-drying modelling epoxy, mould it around the screw as an anchor point, shape it to meet the end of your horizontal strut.
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Dec 9, 2011 09:27
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U.S. Barryl posted:We're trying to figure out what to do with our basement walls. The basement doesn't leak as far as I know, and there's no musty smell, so I don't know why the paint is flaking off, bubbling up, and peeling. Perhaps it's just really old paint. It's probably from the 60's. This is exactly what I came in to post; our basement walls look exactly like that. We also have no musty smell in the basement, but cardboard boxes will rot away if left on the floor long enough. Regarding treatment of said walls, is it adequate to simply remove loose paint/material and repaint with something that resists hydrostatic pressure? I was worried that the real solution was digging down the exterior to the footing and sealing the basement from there.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:45
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Can anyone answer what I hope is a simple question about this lamp? I'd like to set up the lamp below with a new lampshade. For the life of me, I can't find out what kind of shade fitting slips over the white cylinder surrounding the E12 socket indicated by the blue arrow. I know such shade fittings exist, because I had one for this lamp before losing it in a move.  I would like to use the IKEA bulb with the green checkmark, rather than the lovely incandescent bulb in the background. Unfortunately, this rules out using a shade that has a clip-on-to-bulb fitting - those actually do barely fit on the IKEA bulb, but unfortunately ride really high and look stupid. Google has gotten me nowhere on this. If I should repost in the more generic ask/tell megathread please let me know. Thank you gentle goons.
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Dec 10, 2011 03:34
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Okay, I have a device that requires 12v 1.25A. Without going into to much detail why, i'm wondering if I could power this off an Firewire/IEEE 1394 port, which if I understand it correctly supplies 12v 1.5A. Would it be a simple matter of cutting open a Firewire cable and soldering the correct size adaptor plug to the correct cables or is there more to it than that?
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Dec 10, 2011 06:27
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