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Terminus Est posted:Whats it mean when the shifter doesn't want to come out of first when its cold? It will happily go in at 15mph when warm though. My Mazda 3 was doing that, and a change to Redline gear oil helped a lot, but I'm not sure if it really solved the problem or just masked it. Unlike most cars though, my Mazda transaxle does have a specified change interval of 30,000 miles, which apparently hadn't been done.
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Dec 5, 2011 06:34
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Terminus Est posted:Whats it mean when the shifter doesn't want to come out of first when its cold? It will happily go in at 15mph when warm though. When mine is cold, it'll 'pop' out of first. As in, it's a little difficult and then it'll spring-like pop out, as if I wasn't using the clutch. And second is nearly impossible unless I rapidly shift into it. Gets better when warm. I think it may be a dragging clutch or just worn trans.
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Dec 5, 2011 07:16
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I guess i should count myself lucky, i've got an 04 wrx with the 5 speed, and it shifts pretty well up or down when hot, with only minor trouble downshifting into 1st when it's cold. It feels pretty good to shift, but I am coming from a NV5600 with no sychros, and that transmission alone weighs as much as the entire drivetrain in the wrx.
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Dec 5, 2011 07:42
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jamal posted:I generally just have to be careful about shift timing and rev matching to get things to change smoothly. I also have a habit of taking the car out of gear as I lift off the throttle without using the clutch, which spins down the output shaft with the engine, then clutch in and select the next gear. So I'm essentially driving it like I'm not using the clutch, but still use the clutch if that makes sense. Seems to help with 195k on the trans. Makes a lot of sense to me but then again clutches do last an absurd amount of time in my cars
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Dec 5, 2011 09:49
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MrZig posted:When mine is cold, it'll 'pop' out of first. As in, it's a little difficult and then it'll spring-like pop out, as if I wasn't using the clutch. And second is nearly impossible unless I rapidly shift into it. Gets better when warm. I think it may be a dragging clutch or just worn trans. Only has 38k on it with a fresh fill of the voodoo Subaru gear oil. It does feel a bit like the clutch not disengaging. Only happens once though followed by a need to double clutch into second. After that it feels good. I just chalk it up to a quirk.
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Dec 5, 2011 17:15
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jamal posted:I generally just have to be careful about shift timing and rev matching to get things to change smoothly. I also have a habit of taking the car out of gear as I lift off the throttle without using the clutch, which spins down the output shaft with the engine, then clutch in and select the next gear. So I'm essentially driving it like I'm not using the clutch, but still use the clutch if that makes sense. Seems to help with 195k on the trans. This is how I generally shift when I'm driving quickly. If it's safe on your 195k mile trans, it makes sense that I've never had a pseudo-grind shifting like this, while I do get a grind when I granny shift the car.
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Dec 5, 2011 18:44
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Pretty sure I blew a head gasket on a '99 Legacy Outback, found oil in the radiator reservoir after over heating on the way home. I'm going to take it into the mechanic soon, how much should I be expecting the bill to be just to discover if this is the case? Is it a lot of disassembly, or are they able to just do a combustion check? I know the repair itself would be over a grand (if I even want to go that way).
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Dec 5, 2011 20:45
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if it overheats and there's oil in the reservoir a decent Subaru mechanic will be able to open the hood in the parking lot and say "yep, headgaskets are hosed, welcome to the club." Were the timing belt etc changed any time recently? If not that adds a couple hundred to the cost. As far as that goes, just the labor to pull the motor and change the headgaskets will be in the 1200-1500 range. Then another 300-400 if the heads need to be rebuilt/machined (a good idea), plus parts. Bare minimum of seals and gaskets would be around 150. full gasket kit, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idlers is around a grand at the dealership.
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Dec 5, 2011 22:01
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jamal posted:if it overheats and there's oil in the reservoir a decent Subaru mechanic will be able to open the hood in the parking lot and say "yep, headgaskets are hosed, welcome to the club." The timing belt was changed fairly recently, but I can't speak for the water pump's condition. I figured the costs were going to be way out of my league for fixing up, it just doesn't seem worth it to put so much into it when the car itself is only worth 3-4 thousand in good condition. Guess it's time to go car shopping again.. how are the recent engine builds for Subaru? ('05-'10)
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Dec 5, 2011 23:33
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I've just decided to start my search for a Saabaru. It seems they're pretty hard to come by with the turbo and 5 speed. Especially so when I want low miles, leather, and heated seats. But the search is always fun. Anything I should look out for?
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Dec 6, 2011 03:27
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DreamOn13 posted:I've just decided to start my search for a Saabaru. It seems they're pretty hard to come by with the turbo and 5 speed. Especially so when I want low miles, leather, and heated seats. But the search is always fun. Anything I should look out for? The insurance will be different so see what your local insurer will charge for it vs. a WRX. The blue book is also going to be different, so watch out for potential deals that you can finagle. You could probably get them to knock off some money playing the "Saab is going out of business" card as well, but that's solely up to whether your seller is clued in to what the car actually is. The Saabaru has some nice benefits over a WRX of the same year (active head restraints, STI steering rack, mild suspension tuning, arguably nicer wheels and front end). They didn't make a lot of them, and they sold terribly even with huge incentives. Probably almost all of them now belong to Subaru aficionados who were looking for a deal. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 03:43
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Just to make it worse for you, 2006 they had the 2.5L engine compared to the 2.0... They only made them from 04 to 06
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Dec 6, 2011 04:13
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I love my 05 Saabaru. Everyone who sees it thinks is a Subaru until they see the Saab badges. Probably doesn't help that I still have the Subaru centercaps on my wheels. The biggest issue with my Saabaru is finding body parts. Everything else is pretty easy part wise as they're just wrx parts.
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Dec 6, 2011 04:41
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DreamOn13 posted:I've just decided to start my search for a Saabaru. It seems they're pretty hard to come by with the turbo and 5 speed. Especially so when I want low miles, leather, and heated seats. But the search is always fun. Anything I should look out for? We have one here in the San Francisco bay area for you: http://web.freebeeauto.com/for-sale/59920/ Or this 2006 in Redlands, CA: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...&standard=false Amandyke fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 07:56
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I'm trying to clean the house and get parts out/out of the way. Stupid Question, but i wanted to double check, I can install a new 3" catback without needing a reflash right? I still have the UP/DP to install later with a tune, but getting parts out of the garage makes domestic issues easier.
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Dec 6, 2011 15:44
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Amandyke posted:We have one here in the San Francisco bay area for you: http://web.freebeeauto.com/for-sale/59920/ I saw the salvage title one. Everything is perfect, except the salvage title. 
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Dec 6, 2011 20:12
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New muffler goodness. I cant wait for the DP to get installed! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODwqdpz0Xbs
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Dec 6, 2011 23:54
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toplitzin posted:New muffler goodness. I cant wait for the DP to get installed! Very nice. DP, uppipe and tune are coming shortly for my Scoob. jamal or other knowledgeable folks, I was reading NASIOC's uppipe FAQ, and in it they have a list of stuff to replace when installing an uppipe quote:OEM part names and approximate retail prices: Gaskets I get, but what are the cross pipes?
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Dec 7, 2011 01:10
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the exhaust manifold is made of two cast collectors joined by a steel crossover pipe. To change the up-pipe you need to at least drop the passenger side collector off (or remove the whole manifold). So you only need that crossover gasket anyhow. opposedforces.com is handy for looking up parts: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_3/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_2/ although there's no part number there for some reason.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:23
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jamal posted:the exhaust manifold is made of two cast collectors joined by a steel crossover pipe. To change the up-pipe you need to at least drop the passenger side collector off (or remove the whole manifold). So you only need that crossover gasket anyhow. Ok cool so you don't need to replace the crossover pipe just the gaskets? That makes it easier, danke.
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Dec 7, 2011 22:35
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I've got an 04 WRX wagon with factory crossbars, and I wanted to get a snowboard rack that can hold 4 boards. From a quick search, these two: Yakima Big Powderhound Thule Flat Top 6 will both do the job for <$150 online. I'm leaning towards the Yakima, since it has an option to lift the carrier higher off the roof so that the snowboard bindings don't hit the roof. Questions: Which one is known to fit better on the factory crossbars? Is there a general conscensus on which one has better build quality? Thanks.
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Dec 7, 2011 23:15
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Carbocation posted:I've got an 04 WRX wagon with factory crossbars, and I wanted to get a snowboard rack that can hold 4 boards. From a quick search, these two: Not sure about the Thule, but for the Yakima's to fit the stock cross bars you need the special mounts which are extra. I'd assume the same for Thule. I have a Yakima bike rack on my 09, like it. Don't think you'll go wrong either way. Edit: looks like they include the oval mounts now. cool
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Dec 8, 2011 02:13
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Hello Subaru goons. In the expectation that my '93 E30 touring is not going to last forever, I'm considering replacing it with an Impreza wagon sometime within the next year. Was going to go with a 325 touring, but the insurance is stupid on them. I did drive a friend's 1st gen 2.5RS frequently while in the US, so I have a general sense of what the 1st gen chassis is like to drive, the However, I'm in the UK and so would be looking at either a 2.0 Sport AWD (NA engine - and a 1999+ probably, for standard ABS and airbags) 1st gen or possibly a 2.0GX (also NA, obviously) EARLY second gen car. With the five speed box obviously. I'm guessing Aus goons if not UK goons will know about them. These cars are inevitably going to be 75-100k old. Aside from the usual issues with any ~10 year old car - chassis bushings, wheel bearings, CV joints, rust - what are the major things should I be looking at/for? I assume the 1st gen NA cars are EJ20E SOHCs. Does anyone know if the European 1st gen cars between 99 and 2001 got the "Phase II" engines? In either case, does the EJ20 have the same head gasket issues as the turbo motors and the US 2.5? Is the "Phase II" likely to be any longer-lived in service? How common is diff failure? Will an EJ20E or equivalent phase II have hydraulic adjusters, or will I be looking for a recent valve adjustment in the service history (or failing that, how easy is access/adjustment - are they just rocker arm and screw adjust, can you actually get to the valve cover bolts in situ?). Finally, the 2.5RS at least was a bit plowtastic, as you would expect from an AWD car. But at least it's not an Audi, right? A lot of the car's life is going to be back roads, so are there any easy (partial) fixes? E.g. can you just add more bar at the back to help it rotate a bit? This is basically a motorcycle/dog/kid/MTB/snowboard hauler, so we're talking cheapest possible solution other than putting bald Nankang Ditchfinders on the back wheels and hoping the drivetrain survives.
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Dec 8, 2011 12:22
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So I still haven't taken my 06 WRX into a shop, and I think I might be on to what one of the issues is. The powersteering pump seems really loud especially when the car is cold, but it never really quiets down after it warms up. It also seems to whine a lot when I make slow turns. Lately I've been getting a lot of wheel wobble that I can feel through the steering wheel from the front passenger wheel that occurs when I make a sharp right turn. It gets pretty bumpy. A little bit of searching came up with some people on the IWSTI forums having the same problem, and they fixed it by lifting the front end and completely draining the power steering fluid. That thread linked to a NASOIC (I know, I know) thread, with photos of the tear down of the power steering reservoir and pump: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1897783. I just went and drove my car around for a minute since I'm at work, and he was saying it happens instantly when he moved the car. His photos show a ton of bubbles in the reservoir, and mine had a few small bubbles after the drive. Think its worth draining the power steering reservoir and replacing it with new stuff to see if it fixes the problem? Seems like an easy and cheap fix, all I need to do is take off the intake to get to the reservoir right? Any other ideas? He mentions a powersteering pump leak that he fixed with a new o-ring, and now I'm wondering if that is causing the hissing/leaking sound I asked about a page or two back. Called a Subaru dealership and they told me they won't do anything until a check engine light comes on so I'm trying to diagnose/fix this all myself.
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Dec 8, 2011 17:15
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My 02 WRX clutch is slipping under heavy loads. I have a few mods and am making about 250WHP and not planning to make much more. I believe it is the factory clutch and it has 110,000 miles on it. What is my best option for replacement? What should I do along with the clutch kit? Can I get away with not resurfacing my flywheel? An exedy clutch kit is about $200 and IIRC they were the OEM on the clutch. I see some competition clutches for around $350 and was also considering them. I would like a bit extra holding power if possible as my car has felt rather anemic through first for a long time despite spooling the stock turbo and I am thinking this may be why. Thanks for your help.
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Dec 8, 2011 18:04
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Iron Lung posted:Called a Subaru dealership and they told me they won't do anything until a check engine light comes on so I'm trying to diagnose/fix this all myself. It's annoyingly hard to find a mechanic who has any diagnostic ability beyond the code reader. 
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Dec 8, 2011 21:35
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Iron Lung posted:p/s stuff That short section is the only place the system can draw air. everywhere else is under pressure and will just leak. hose pn: 34611FE130 Lord Gaga posted:My 02 WRX clutch is slipping under heavy loads. Yeah Exedy makes the OEM replacement and they also make some upgraded ones. The "stage 1" kit uses a better disc and has a slightly higher clamp load and will handle your power level no problem. The next upgrade from there is the ACT HDSS. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 8, 2011 21:47
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Do I need to resurface my flywheel?
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Dec 8, 2011 21:53
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Lord Gaga posted:Do I need to resurface my flywheel? yes.
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Dec 8, 2011 21:56
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jamal posted:the pump is sucking air. replace the clamps on the hose from the pump to the reservoir. if that doesn't help replace the whole hose and the o-ring on the pump inlet. Or just go ahead and replace everything. The hose is like $30. Thanks Jamal. Think will solve the noise I'm getting when accelerating? One issue at a time I suppose. I'll try this out on Saturday and report back.
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Dec 9, 2011 00:43
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My 07 Outback Sport is at about 97k and I'm looking over my timing belt and water pump replacement options. Well, the only options are A) I do it, or B) I pay someone else a lot more money to do it. My only hesitation is it will be my first time taking out a radiator and messing with belts since my DIY has been limited to changing fluids and brake pads. But now that I finally have a garage and the proper tools, is it reasonable to assume I could complete the task by following a series of videos such as this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mjCegTnB60 (Meatys youtube video, I think someone posted it here months ago). Let's say that I'm only about 25% idiot and 100% interested in saving myself a couple hundred in labor. For those of you who have done this, what are the odds I can pull it off given that ratio?
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Dec 9, 2011 21:46
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If I'm not mistaken, the '07 naturally aspirated EJ is SOHC, isn't it? I know it was in '08. Your job should be a lot easier than the DOHC shown on those videos, though I'm in the same boat as you procrastinating on doing the timing belt on my SOHC. Radiator removal is really easy. Just make sure you have the appropriate coolant and coolant accessories on hand for when you have to fill it up again. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 9, 2011 |
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Dec 9, 2011 21:53
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timing belt is a pretty straightforward thing to change, especially on a SOHC. install everything but the lower idler, line the three marks up on the gears with the three marks on the engine and the three marks on the belt, put on the last idler, rotate the engine a couple times to make sure all the notches are still vertical, and then pull the tensioner pin. If you fill the block up through the upper passage first and get one of these it makes bleeding the coolant a lot easier.
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Dec 9, 2011 22:43
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Yeah, SOHC, I never remember that the ej255 is DOHC... Thanks for the info both of you. On the topic of coolant, my last cars I just used generic Prestone coolant crap to replace the coolant, but it seems lots of folks actually go for the Subaru coolant or conditioner as it says in the manual. I'll sadly admit I still have the original coolant in the car and this will be the first time I've actually flushed it since I couldn't make up my mind if the coolant was just an Owner's Manual scam. Does the coolant actually matter here while I'm at it?
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Dec 9, 2011 22:49
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The conditioner is just a teensy bottle that's pretty inexpensive. I don't think the coolant matters too much as long as you get some that's safe for aluminum and don't mix and match.
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Dec 10, 2011 00:33
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The hardest part I found about replacing the timing belt? It actually wasn't the timing belt at all but the water pump. Those fiddly little hoses that attach to the pump and the pump gasket can go gently caress themselves.
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Dec 10, 2011 02:05
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For my 99 Impreza RS project, I noticed that my starter only has one bolt on the top. There should be be a stud as well, but there is just a hole. Anyone know what size the stud should be? The Subaru parts diagrams don't call it out.
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Dec 10, 2011 18:01
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Hello all, I have a problem with the transmission, it's a 1999 Subaru Legacy B4 RSK Sportshift Whenever the car has been running for a while (stop and go) on heavy traffic, the drivetrain kinda gets "stuck" and I feel the drivetrain move back and forth with a clunck, also when going at 80 kms/h and reducing speed to zero, a few seconds before the car completely stops I feel the same issue, the whole drivetrain moves back and forth and I feel a shudder trough the whole car. I took it to a Subaru shop who said this happens because the transmission disks get stuck, and that affects the AWD systems, he said the only cure is to rebuild the transmission or replace it. , they checked the trans solenoids, and all the diffs. They say they have seen this happen to a lot of Subaru's, that it wasn't that bad on mine, but it might get worse in the future..In the mean time I put an additive in the trans oil to stop the clunking and it worked for a few moments, but now is back again, albeit less annoying, but it didnt cure the problem. a few questions: * Is the diagnostic right? * is rebuilding (involves replacing all the disks and seals etc, VERY VERY expensive,) the right thing to do? * are 4EAT's interchangeable? the B4 transmissions are *IMPOSSIBLE* to find, but a importer found a AUT trans from a single turbo subaru car, I suspect a Forester Turbo... * If I go for a non twin turbo transmission, would I loose sportshift functions? Power/Snow,ETC, g and yaw meters etc? I was about to sell the car to buy a 2006 Legacy Turbo and now cant do anything, help? EDIT: the loving Lancia Delta Integrale is running well so I'm using it as a daily driver, this not the way the world works... Thank you!
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Dec 10, 2011 23:53
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mulligan posted:Hello all, Stupid question but when was the last time you replaced the transmission fluid?
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Dec 11, 2011 03:35
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mulligan posted:EDIT: the loving Lancia Delta Integrale is running well so I'm using it as a daily driver, this not the way the world works... Hold up, I think we'd all like to know more about this one.
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Dec 11, 2011 03:49
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