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Guitarchitect posted:edit: as another poster asked, is hitachi any good? If it's not worn out you won't regret such a saw. They are quality. It's just not best in class.
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Dec 1, 2011 12:34
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drat dude... rough day. I never thought a cup was required shop gear hehehe
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Dec 1, 2011 15:12
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I was looking at some festool mft3 videos last night. Together with one of the plunge saws it's a pretty cool system if you're looking to avoid using a table saw. Obviously it's pricy and from my newb experience looks like there are certain tasks you can't do like cutting thin/small stock and doing dadoes. Anyone use one of these or any festool stuff for that matter?
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Dec 1, 2011 21:07
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ChaoticSeven posted:I was fine tuning some 1/8" inlay on the drum sander today and it shot back out and hit me square in the balls. Most painful injury in the shop so far. That's definitely "one of those days." My boss had one two days ago where he dropped a huge piece I was 99% done finishing, dented up 3 edges and one whole face so I stripped and refinished it. Gah. He told me about his worst shop accident too, tablesaw threw back a tennis ball sized piece into a guy knocking a hole in his stomach. Please be careful.
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Dec 2, 2011 01:05
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Not an Anthem posted:He told me about his worst shop accident too, tablesaw threw back a tennis ball sized piece into a guy knocking a hole in his stomach. Holy hell. There's a really good reason I only ever use table saws for large material or with a sled. Jesus christ. I get the willies watching just about anybody run a table saw. I've never seen a major accident, but I've heard way too many horror stories to not have a huge respect for the damage they can do. I really prefer a nice bandsaw  e: I HAVE seen somebody push a full sheet of plywood through a radial arm saw setup for ripping the wrong direction. It blasted the sheet across the shop and ripped a vice off of the workbench. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 2, 2011 |
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Dec 2, 2011 01:15
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Any tool, big or small, powered or not, can cause serious injury. Taking the proper precautions though, you'll be fine. Don't be scared of tools. Friend of mine put a carving gouge through her finger because she didn't want to use power tools...
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Dec 2, 2011 01:27
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Tripping a Saw Stop has to be one of the most pantshitting feelings I've ever had. I didn't actually trigger it with my hand but the piece jumped slightly on a knot and knocked the bladeguard into the blade. I had a ton of plastic shards fly in my face but thankfully I was wearing glasses and only got minor cuts. Basically what Im trying to say is gently caress table saws
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Dec 2, 2011 05:52
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weeeeeeeee I just put my lathe back together after a 4 month hiatus from moving. Now... where is my drill 
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Dec 2, 2011 17:58
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The Spookmaster posted:Tripping a Saw Stop has to be one of the most pantshitting feelings I've ever had. I didn't actually trigger it with my hand but the piece jumped slightly on a knot and knocked the bladeguard into the blade. I had a ton of plastic shards fly in my face but thankfully I was wearing glasses and only got minor cuts. Basically what Im trying to say is gently caress table saws I've managed to not trip mine yet, knock on wood. How hard was it to swap everything back out? I know you lose the blade in most cases but I'm just curious if it was any more difficult then swapping in a dado set.
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Dec 2, 2011 18:55
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Ugh... four months off from my lathe and I screwed up 2 out of 3 pieces. I made a really thin walled walnut bowl so thin that I sanded through the wall.... I made a cedar bowl that had a really great shape but the bottom busted where I had it mounted to the chuck... I started out on what should have been a 5" tall box and turned it into a 2 1/2" tall thing with a lid that doesn't fit right and looks kind of like a boob Sigh. Tomorrow I'm going to chop a tree down so I can some green wood to work on my tool technique, and more reasons to sharpen my tools. Too sharpening is probably my weakest skill. /end rambling rant
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Dec 2, 2011 23:44
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How many of you guys have saw stops on your table saws? I saw one at a show about 5 years ago and was under the impression only super high end saws had 'em? Is this not the case any more?
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Dec 2, 2011 23:46
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Sawstop is still just a brand of table saw with the tech embedded. There are several different guys working on blade brakes to retrofit older saws. The inventor of Sawstop gets a lot of poo poo for trying to legislate his invention into law. His does work the fastest, albeit with the whole blade destroying caveat.
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Dec 3, 2011 00:18
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The Spookmaster posted:Tripping a Saw Stop has to be one of the most pantshitting feelings I've ever had. I didn't actually trigger it with my hand but the piece jumped slightly on a knot and knocked the bladeguard into the blade. I had a ton of plastic shards fly in my face but thankfully I was wearing glasses and only got minor cuts. Basically what Im trying to say is gently caress table saws Haha, I can second this. I was with a guy who is about 70 years old who set off a saw stop. The look on his face when it happened was like an "oh poo poo what just happened and what did I just hurt?!". It turned out the veneer of the wood he was cutting had metal flakes in it and set it off. ChaoticSeven posted:His does work the fastest, albeit with the whole blade destroying caveat. I know this is something they say, and the shop where I belong to states in their contract that you have to replace the blade if you set off the saw stop. But of the 2 times I've seen it set off, both times the blade was actually OK once pulled out of the stop. Picture for fun: 
jvick fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Dec 3, 2011 |
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Dec 3, 2011 00:20
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they demo'd it with a hotdog, seems like pretty freking awesome tech... albeit a bit expensive every time you get high moisture wood, or metal flakes in your veneer or what-have-you.
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Dec 3, 2011 01:30
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ChaoticSeven posted:Sawstop is still just a brand of table saw with the tech embedded. There are several different guys working on blade brakes to retrofit older saws. The inventor of Sawstop gets a lot of poo poo for trying to legislate his invention into law. His does work the fastest, albeit with the whole blade destroying caveat. The CPSC will be ruling on that shortly. Finewoodworking.com has an interesting article with the background on the whole issue. They are in favor of not making flesh-sensing tech mandatory so there may be some bias in their article, for better or worse. For some background, check this out: http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/43008/the-story-behind-the-governments-pending-tablesaw-ruling For info on how to contribute your own voice to the issue (I did, you should too!): http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/42825/time-to-tell-the-government-what-you-think-about-tablesaw-safety
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Dec 3, 2011 02:16
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Anubis posted:I've managed to not trip mine yet, knock on wood. How hard was it to swap everything back out? I know you lose the blade in most cases but I'm just curious if it was any more difficult then swapping in a dado set. It really wasn't too bad. I tripped it in a class I was taking so I felt worse about the cost of the replacement but the teacher didn't notice the knot either so they weren't pissed or anything jvick posted:Haha, I can second this. I was with a guy who is about 70 years old who set off a saw stop. The look on his face when it happened was like an "oh poo poo what just happened and what did I just hurt?!". It turned out the veneer of the wood he was cutting had metal flakes in it and set it off. Yea I really slowly looked down in horror thinking I would be fingerless. Just having some cuts on my face and holes in my favorite shirt was a relief in comparison. Again gently caress tablesaws
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Dec 3, 2011 02:43
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The Spookmaster posted:Again gently caress tablesaws But hey, if it was your finger triggering the saw stop and not the knot, you'd be saying "All glory to the SawStop" 
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Dec 3, 2011 03:15
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kafkasgoldfish posted:For some background, check this out: That was a great read. Not that December 12th is an automatic trigger for higher prices, but I'm thinking of getting my first table saw real soon so I guess I'll do it sooner rather than later.
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Dec 3, 2011 03:30
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I'm sort of in favour of that legislation. . . for my own reasons.  Do I harbour any resentment towards my table saw? Why do you ask? 
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Dec 3, 2011 07:28
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I've been using my 30-ish year old cheapo Rockwell table saw to build this fellow: (base/enclosure for a small CNC router table) I do fair number of dangerous things in my day job, and not a single one of them provokes more anxiety than firing up that goddamn saw. I'm really really really glad that part of the project is behind me. On a sort of twisted upside, its marked lack of modern safety features makes you super-ultra-hyper-aware of your body and hand positions at all times. I agree with Spookmaster. gently caress 'em.
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Dec 3, 2011 14:35
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^^My Dad cut himself on the tablesaw just like that. I wasn't around to see it, but my sister was. First thing he said was "don't tell Mom", which of course she did. He didn't get stitches either, even though he probably should have. I scored a free Grizzly dust collector yesterday, brand new and never used. It's the 3hp dual bag model. I was going to buy a cyclone unit when I built a bigger shop, but now I think I'll just make a chip separator. Of course I still don't have room for it, so I'll just store it until I do.
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Dec 3, 2011 14:41
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I have always been terrified of the table saw so I have been incredibly safe around them. The worst I have gotten is getting sprayed in the face with pieces of lead when putting a bezel on a lead core door (xray room). Should of caught on when the guy helping me went and got a leather welding jacket and welding mask.
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Dec 3, 2011 21:05
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I have a understanding and respect for the potential of disaster for all my tools but I'm not scared to use them. Other peoples tools on the other hand do give me pause. Especially lazy people who don't take care of their poo poo.
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Dec 3, 2011 22:36
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Blake- posted:How many of you guys have saw stops on your table saws? I saw one at a show about 5 years ago and was under the impression only super high end saws had 'em? Is this not the case any more? They have a contractor version, which I think when they first started they didn't have. It's a lot cheaper and if you put on the additional cast iron tops is as good as any comparably priced cabinet saw imho. Truth is that there is a couple hundred dollar premium due to the feature and the fact that SawStop isn't as big and doesn't have the same economy of scale as some other brands. There are still tons of ways to injure yourself with one, but for me the little extra was worth the insurance. I know there are at least 5 of us around here who have used one.
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Dec 5, 2011 21:38
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Guys, how I can do smth like this? What material I must use for transparent part? Crystal resin? Like Smooth-on Crystal ClearŪ ?
puristaako fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 12:42
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puristaako posted:Guys, how I can do smth like this? What material I must use for transparent part? Crystal resin? Like Smooth-on Crystal ClearŪ ? What are you trying to do with it?
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Dec 6, 2011 13:51
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same question... whtcha doing? Would using epoxy to laminate sheets of lexan or plexy achieve what you want?
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Dec 6, 2011 14:20
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What dimensions is it going to be, if it needs to last more than a week you're going to have serious problems with it ripping itself apart if you don't do it right.
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Dec 6, 2011 16:23
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 I found this is very similar to what I need. Wood/smth transparent/wood/transparent etc.
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Dec 6, 2011 17:08
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puristaako posted:Guys, how I can do smth like this? What material I must use for transparent part? Crystal resin? Like Smooth-on Crystal ClearŪ ? Why use something liquid instead of something solid? For instance, what about sheets of acrylic epoxied to layers of wood?
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Dec 6, 2011 17:41
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puristaako posted:
Are you sure the wood grain isn't just painted on?
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Dec 6, 2011 20:32
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Why use something liquid instead of something solid? For instance, what about sheets of acrylic epoxied to layers of wood? That was going to be my suggestion. Though finding a good epoxy would be the hard part. I have found some that bleed in to the plastic when bonding to wood. Maybe someone here has used a product I am not aware of?
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Dec 6, 2011 20:35
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I'm planning on making a picture frame out of tree branches sliced in half. And thinking of making it 2 rows of 3 three columns for 4x5 size prints. Had anyone seen any projects longer this using branches? Looking for some resources to validate how to tackle this.
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Dec 6, 2011 21:10
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the spyder posted:That was going to be my suggestion. Though finding a good epoxy would be the hard part. I have found some that bleed in to the plastic when bonding to wood. Maybe someone here has used a product I am not aware of? Actually, I'd be very surprised if contact cement wouldn't work. In fact I would recommend that over epoxy assuming it can adhere to something like acrylic. Maybe someone else knows if that is an issue?
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Dec 6, 2011 23:06
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wormil posted:Are you sure the wood grain isn't just painted on? It looks like there is a light source within the wood blobs.. look at the lines on the floor under them. nth-ing suggestion to use acrylic in the sandwich.
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Dec 7, 2011 00:56
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That was the point though: the whole thing may be plastic of some sort, with the wood grain painted on. Not orange stripes painted onto wood.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:08
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Oh I see what you're getting at. That'd be a clever solution to that problem.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:12
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wormil posted:Are you sure the wood grain isn't just painted on? probably not... I've seen similar constructions (not as sculptural). conceptually it'd be pretty ridiculous if the wood was just slapped on - more often than not the artist/craftsperson is exploiting the technology (in this case, probably CNC) to make something that would otherwise be quite difficult to make
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Dec 7, 2011 01:28
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This says that particular design is wood and resin http://www.gruppoavanzini.com/it/collezioni/bright-woods/ It could be the "ribs" are preformed and then resin injected into a mold encasing the whole thing in resin. I can't imagine they are solid wood all the way through they would weigh a ton.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:33
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It would be really fun to turn something like that (unless it exploded on you). You could cut some slabs, router out a place for the resin, fill with resin & use the same resin to glue adhere the next slab done the same way. Then you could turn off the edges which would leave you more-or-less what you want.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:47
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