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I've been happily using a WD Mybook Live for months to serve media to my pc & appletv. I was dicking around last night with twonky mobile on my android to play music to my appletv, and noticed that it detected the Mybooklive. I didn't do anything with the mybooklive, but as of this afternoon the MBL no longer works, at all. Tried power cycling a bunch, holding in the reset button, swapping ethernet cables, the works. It appears the power still works, with LEDs blinking on the ethernet port, by the front LED is completely inoperative and the MBL won't pick up an ip address through DHCP. In the meantime I'd uninstalled the android twonky app & now it wants me to pay $5 to use it again, and I'm not even sure that's what caused this issue. And it's not like I'll be able to connect to the MBL again with it not having an IP. What the hell do I do other than giving WD a call tomorrow?
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Dec 8, 2011 03:28
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I'm not sure if this or the Enterprise Storage megathread would be the right place to post it, but recently we've been having some strange issues with one of our NAS boxes. If you try to map to the IP in Explorer, it fails to connect. However, mapping to it by using the name works perfectly. It sounds like a DNS issue, but after poking around in the box settings, it appears everything is how it should be. It's a Iomega® StorCenter™ ix4-200d NAS Server, if that helps at all. Has anyone ever seen an issue like this?
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Dec 8, 2011 15:47
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Maybe not the best thread, but I really need someone to tell me "stop being silly, it's fine" (or "JESUS CHRIST WHAT ARE YOU DOING" if necessary). I just finished installing a Hyper 212+ cooler and the two top screws look like this:  The one on the left won't go down any further without a lot of force (which I'm afraid to apply since I already had to return one cooler because a screw broke); the two bottom screws are about the same height as the one on the right. Should I be worried that they're not perfectly even? 
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Dec 8, 2011 16:19
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NihilCredo posted:Maybe not the best thread, but I really need someone to tell me "stop being silly, it's fine" (or "JESUS CHRIST WHAT ARE YOU DOING" if necessary). They look even to me. Maybe it's the perspective. But anyway, it sounds like the left one just isn't threaded correctly. Take it all the way out and then put it back in (haw haw haw). I just installed the exact same cooler literally yesterday, and all my screws were even. They should screw in fairly easily until a certain point, and then just stop.
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Dec 8, 2011 16:23
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NihilCredo posted:Maybe not the best thread, but I really need someone to tell me "stop being silly, it's fine" (or "JESUS CHRIST WHAT ARE YOU DOING" if necessary). I have had a LGA1366 i7 zip-tied to a motherboard for the last 6 months. I think I sent the X-brace thing back with a DOA motherboard.
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Dec 8, 2011 16:36
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Is there an easy way to hook up a SCSI hard drive to a SATA port? My boss asked if I had experience fixing desktops and I said a little, as I've built two machines. He has some older desktop with those hot swappable SCSI drives on the front and he believes his motherboard died. Wants to pull the files off the HDD, but obviously that's tough to do when the computer wont boot. At home I don't have a SCSI card or anything to really try and fool around with it. I was just looking at google to see if there was a simple SCSI to SATA adapter or anything, but all I could find were really, really expensive cards. Like, $400+ cards on newegg that sounded like they'd be what I want, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions? vvvv Sounds like a pain! Now that I think about it, would I just be able to plug the SCSI card into my personal computer, hook up the drive, and pull everything down like that? edit2; Oh, that looks great, Digital Jesus. I guess I just didn't know what exactly I was looking for and that's how I found the $400 ones, haha. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 8, 2011 17:46
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Sab669 posted:Is there an easy way to hook up a SCSI hard drive to a SATA port? I can't think of an easy way, you will likely need some kind of PCI(e) SCSI controller card, which will interface the drives to the system. Maybe you can look for old servers on craigslist that sport this interface, or look for older SCSI controllers. This gets more difficult if the original SCSI drives are part of a RAID set, in which case you'll need to know the model of that original SCSI controller.
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Dec 8, 2011 17:57
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Sab669 posted:Is there an easy way to hook up a SCSI hard drive to a SATA port? Bah, gently caress, thought it had a connector change. Still looking for you, hold on! Newegg, PCI Card, $70 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816129010 Digital_Jesus fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 8, 2011 18:07
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That's a slow (40MB/s) card, I have a bunch of Ultra 160s I'd be happy to sell you for like half that price.
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Dec 8, 2011 18:32
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I have been looking into building/buying a server for basic storage, streaming, transcoding and visualization. Now I have never really worked with servers before, so I am curious how server hardware compares to desktop hardware. What hardware specifications I should be shooting for to achieve this goal. Would I be better off building this server using energy efficient desktop hardware? or should I stick with Server hardware. Any help would be much appreciated.
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Dec 8, 2011 18:58
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likw1d posted:I have been looking into building/buying a server for basic storage, streaming, transcoding and visualization. Now I have never really worked with servers before, so I am curious how server hardware compares to desktop hardware. What hardware specifications I should be shooting for to achieve this goal. Would I be better off building this server using energy efficient desktop hardware? or should I stick with Server hardware. Any help would be much appreciated. Swing by the Packrats Unite/NAS thread, and we will be happy to help you out!
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Dec 8, 2011 22:06
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I want this specific nettop. What is the difference between these two listings? I cant find one, but there has to be some sot of catch. 250 is the normal rate for these things. http://www.amazon.com/Zbox-Sff-Fusion-E350-DDR3-1066/dp/B004VUODIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1323395164&sr=8-2 http://www.amazon.com/Zotac-ZBOX-1-6GHz-Barebone-ZBOX-AD02-U/dp/B004XYJLY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323395164&sr=8-1 dammit amazon! 
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Dec 9, 2011 02:51
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movax posted:Swing by the Packrats Unite/NAS thread, and we will be happy to help you out! Awesome, I will check it out. I figured this thread was more suited for my question but it looks like the Packrats Unite/NAS thread could better suit my needs.
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Dec 9, 2011 03:24
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Is it easy to reapply thermal paste to a cpu? My laptop has been overheating and I'm pretty sure that's whats doing it. My friend took it apart to clean the fans and I believe he commented on the thermal paste looking thin/worn. I'm just wondering if I can do it at home.
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Dec 9, 2011 04:01
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On a desktop, yes, absolutely. On a laptop, you could be looking at a major disassembly procedure before you can even try to replace the thermal grease, and a finicky reassembly afterwards. See if you can Google up the laptop's service manual to check out all of the steps you would need to do.
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Dec 9, 2011 04:04
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The Valuum posted:Is it easy to reapply thermal paste to a cpu? My laptop has been overheating and I'm pretty sure that's whats doing it. My friend took it apart to clean the fans and I believe he commented on the thermal paste looking thin/worn. If you or your friend took it apart to the point where you can actually see the thermal paste, you need to reapply it - it's only good for one application. You might want to see if your friend did this.
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Dec 9, 2011 04:15
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Oddhair posted:It's not really hardware, but does anyone know how to get a Windows 7 key from an offline drive? A friend of mine/employee of my lawyer brought me a computer with a clicking HD. To further complicate it this thing has Truecrypt full-drive encryption on it. I don't yet know if I'll even be able to get anything off of it, but if I can only grab his docs and maybe the Windows key that should be fine. Just in case anyone is interested, I was able to
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Dec 9, 2011 06:46
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Really stupid question: I've got a barely-in-warranty Seagate hard drive that CrystalDiskInfo is telling me Caution on due to the Reallocated Sectors Count. I went to their RMA thing, ran their stupid SeaTools software, and it's telling me my drive is fine. Do I need to call/email them about this and tell them the SMART data tells me it's hosed, or what?
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Dec 9, 2011 09:18
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Dr. Habibi posted:Really stupid question: I've got a barely-in-warranty Seagate hard drive that CrystalDiskInfo is telling me Caution on due to the Reallocated Sectors Count. I went to their RMA thing, ran their stupid SeaTools software, and it's telling me my drive is fine. Do I need to call/email them about this and tell them the SMART data tells me it's hosed, or what?
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Dec 9, 2011 09:20
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I swear to god I read this question yesterday. Now I have to find it. There's a question about it but doesn't say anything about whether or not their stupid utility doesn't spit out the magic code so you can fill out their online RMA thing. Guess what I'm saying is I hate calling Seagate. The last time I did for an RMA I was on the phone forever (albeit this was years and years ago). e: it's also entirely possible I lack basic reading comprehension. ex2: yep, I can't read, found it: grumperfish posted:Seagate has a no-questions-asked RMA process for this. If you get a reallocated sector or other major SMART error (but the drive's not "failed" per their tool) you'd simply enter their generic drive error field on their support site and they'll replace it without trouble. I guess so this post is less stupid: how hardline are they about what you ship it back in? I feel silly going to find an antistatic bag for an external hard drive (which is what their instructions say to do). Dr. Habibi fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Dec 9, 2011 |
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Dec 9, 2011 09:39
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I am trying to conserve energy and I am having a problem with a new computer I just built. It does not seem to want to go to sleep for poo poo. I messed with all the options in the BIOS like S3/S5, wake up on USB or LAN, stuff like that. When I click sleep in Windows 7, the monitor goes off but all the fans are still spinning and I can eject the DVD drive with no problem. I have sleep mode enabled in Windows 7, I have messed with all the power settings I can think of. I've never had this issue with a computer before. If someone could help me figure this out I'd appreciate it. Also, it is hooked up to a printer that is on my network. So does this computer need to be on if I want to print from a different room in the house or from my laptop?
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Dec 9, 2011 14:27
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Hamburglar posted:I am trying to conserve energy and I am having a problem with a new computer I just built. It does not seem to want to go to sleep for poo poo. I messed with all the options in the BIOS like S3/S5, wake up on USB or LAN, stuff like that. When I click sleep in Windows 7, the monitor goes off but all the fans are still spinning and I can eject the DVD drive with no problem.
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Dec 9, 2011 18:29
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Alereon posted:You should probably post a thread in the Haus of Tech Support, make sure you use the template in the sticky Rules thread. Regarding your latter question, yes the computer needs to be on to use the printer connected to it. Thanks. Since the computer has to be on for the printer to work, the sleep issue is moot point anyway. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Dec 9, 2011 |
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Dec 9, 2011 19:24
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Not sure where this goes sorry if I’m in the wrong thread. I’m currently having graphics problems running BF3, I recently changed my Graphics card, Power supply and monitor. I get weird geometrical shapes in the image at random moments after playing for a little while (sometimes 30 minutes in, sometimes after an hour, although I’ve played for 2 hours without it happening). The shapes appear in different manners, the most frequent is huge triangular shapes in the middle of the screen when I’m scoping, on some maps I’ll get weird shapes that come from any sources of light, and they’ll disappear if I shoot out the lights. People have told me that this could be an overheating problem, or it could be because I haven’t downloaded all the sufficient Drivers and BIOS updates (I’m pretty sure I have, downloaded the most recent update from the EVGA website. If it helps, I’m using: EVGA GTX 560 Ti Asus 1080p monitor connected by an HDMI and a 8GB RAM Quad-Core. Thanks goons.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:13
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Your video card is probably failing. Call up EVGA and ask for a warranty RMA.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:18
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If you haven't overclocked your graphics card, serious artifacting is usually a sign the card is no good. It could be overheating, sure, but as long as the fan is actually working and your case isn't a sauna, a graphics card should cope with that fine at stock speeds. Since you say you recently bought it, I'd seriously consider sending it in for an RMA. First though, don't use the manufacturer's site for drivers, head over straight to NVIDIA's site for the driver.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:20
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The only question is "GPU or memory failing?" 'cause that symptom could be caused by either but yeah RMA that sucker.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:34
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HalloKitty posted:but as long as the fan is actually working and your case isn't a sauna It's an old case, I didn't build the PC from scratch it's an HP Quad-Core I got about 2 years ago, the case is pretty tight but everything fit in juste barely, could that be the problem? (not enough room for airflow) First of all I'll get all the drivers off NVIDIA's site. If the problem persists I guess I'll just take off the side panel on my case and see if that helps the overheating problem. If the issue still persists, it seems my only option is to replace the card.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:41
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MacDeuce posted:It's an old case, I didn't build the PC from scratch it's an HP Quad-Core I got about 2 years ago Power supply just became a possible culprit.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:46
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Before you go too crazy, are the problems ONLY in BF3? That's a known issue with the 560Ti, the latest nvidia drivers (grab the most recent beta, although I think it's fixed in the most recent whql release) and I think the most recent BF3 patch fix that. edit: I see you are already doing that. well, that oughta work.
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Dec 9, 2011 22:12
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Did we ever have a thread here for old computers and exotic computers? I have a few machines I keep around for sentimental value and I'm always trying to bring them back to life in some for or another. I find it a good distraction from the other computer poo poo I have to do at work.
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Dec 9, 2011 23:07
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Shaocaholica posted:Did we ever have a thread here for old computers and exotic computers? YOSPOS
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Dec 9, 2011 23:10
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My case fan (think it's 120mm, came with the Antec case) has stopped working. Just replacing it is easy enough but I was looking at the reviews on Newegg and other stuff I Googled and I see a lot of "these fans barely do anything anyway". Looking at my CPU/GPU temps and they've hardly budged from where I remember them being before, either idling or under load. It's a very modest gaming desktop. Is this something I should do urgently or try to minimize use until I do or no big deal?
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Dec 10, 2011 02:36
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Unless you have some massive amounts of heat that need to be moved out, one or two exaust fans near the CPU is all you'll ever really need.
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Dec 10, 2011 02:39
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Fans do matter, but if your broken one clearly is not, I wouldn't worry overmuch. Pick up a nice fan at your leisure.
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Dec 10, 2011 02:43
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E: Resolved, see bottom. Urgh. Let's play a round of "CPU, RAM, or Motherboard". I recently got back a system that was damaged in shipping. The motherboard had some caps knocked around when the heatsink detached, and I was told that the system would "not turn on" after the heatsink was reattached. When I got the system back, I also noted some CPU socket pins were bent, which I assumed came from the re-mounting because there was a shitload of thermal grease on the CPU and heatsink bottom. I cleaned up the CPU, and it looked fine. I bought a new motherboard. I install everything, hit the power button, and the fans spin up and screen syncs, but I get no image on DVI or VGA, USB devices power off shortly after establishing a connection, and no computing seems to happen. Clearing the CMOS doesn't seem to help. Needless to say, everything worked when I sent it off. Difficulty: the motherboard has no speaker nor a speaker header. It has no error lights. Its manual does not have a troubleshooting section. The 24/7 tech support line has no techs on duty. CPU: Core i3 540 Motherboard: Zotac H55ITX-C-E RAM: This 8GB kit of Mushkin Silverline I'm going to keep plugging at it, but if somebody has a bright idea, I'm all ears. E: RAM! One dead DIMM. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Dec 10, 2011 |
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Dec 10, 2011 03:54
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Can I build someone a computer and mix a drop of something like fart-scented oil with the thermal compound, so their computer will smell like a hot turd for all eternity?
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Dec 10, 2011 04:36
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Fishmasher posted:Can I build someone a computer and mix a drop of something like fart-scented oil with the thermal compound, so their computer will smell like a fat turd for all eternity? best question ever asked in this thread I don't know, you should try it though. You could poop inside an optical drive as well, and then insert that into the computer.
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Dec 10, 2011 04:37
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Buy one of these fans, install it in the normal exhaust spot but backwards. Smear poop on the fan blades. When your victim powers the system on, whiiiiIIIIIIIIIIIIRRRRR *splatter*. E: I'm not sure it would work. Liquid rear end needs to be able to evaporate and probably wouldn't work well in a tight grease seal. But as a consolation prize, I found cat pee flavored lip balm while I was searching for that. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Dec 10, 2011 |
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Dec 10, 2011 04:44
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Factory Factory posted:E: I'm not sure it would work. Liquid rear end needs to be able to evaporate and probably wouldn't work well in a tight grease seal. 
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Dec 10, 2011 05:47
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