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It was so bad that the cat came into the kitchen and was scraping the bare tile floor with his paw as if he was trying to cover up a huge invisible turd! I've owned other fart sprays that didn't quite smell "right". But Liquid rear end really smells like the real deal.
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Dec 10, 2011 05:50
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movax posted:You could poop inside an optical drive as well, and then insert that into the computer. The victim's suspicions might be aroused when they see something as frivolous as an optical drive in their new computer though.
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Dec 10, 2011 06:24
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Slider posted:It was so bad that the cat came into the kitchen and was scraping the bare tile floor with his paw as if he was trying to cover up a huge invisible turd! I've owned other fart sprays that didn't quite smell "right". But Liquid rear end really smells like the real deal. You must really know your poo poo. What is a good program for backing up a failing hard drive? CrystalDiskInfo is telling me that my WD passport is saying caution (current pending sector count is yellow). If I just try copying the entire hdd, the transfer fails halfway through and I have to start over. Copying folders one at a time seems to work, but is super annoying.
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Dec 10, 2011 18:03
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Fruits of the sea posted:You must really know your poo poo. Create an empty target folder on a drive with enough space, open a command line and run this command: robocopy <source> <target folder> /ZB /MIR /R:3 /W:5 /LOG:<some file in some path.txt> This will use the Robocopy engine to copy the drive, retry 3 times on any files or folders that fail, and log the results so you can see what failed later without babysitting it and try more extreme measures. Time is of the essence! Allons-y! E: Also, make sure you use a COMPLETELY EMPTY FOLDER as the TARGET FOLDER. The /MIR switch will delete files in the destination not found in the source. If you want to be safer, use /E instead of /MIR.
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Dec 10, 2011 18:32
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Factory Factory posted:Create an empty target folder on a drive with enough space, open a command line and run this command: Okay, I came back after about 2 and a half hours and it seems to still be running, or at least the log file is slowly getting larger. (it was 666kb when I first checked  )How will I know when it is done?
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Dec 10, 2011 21:54
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When you see the command prompt again. I forgot to add /V for output to the command prompt window. 
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Dec 10, 2011 22:08
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I need to return a graphics card and power supply from Newegg, but I threw away the antistatic packaging on the graphics card. Did I gently caress myself?
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Dec 11, 2011 02:15
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CraigK posted:I need to return a graphics card and power supply from Newegg, but I threw away the antistatic packaging on the graphics card. Did I gently caress myself?
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Dec 11, 2011 02:19
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My PSU shorted out last night, it was an 80+ Silver certified unit with over power, over current, over voltage and short circuit protection, what are the chances that it fried my other components?
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Dec 11, 2011 03:03
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Street Soldier posted:My PSU shorted out last night, it was an 80+ Silver certified unit with over power, over current, over voltage and short circuit protection, what are the chances that it fried my other components? Pretty decent, if there was any sort of spike it'd hit your motherboard with very little trouble. A blow'd up PSU cost me a motherboard a few years back. No way to know for sure if anything else got hit until you try it - you know you need a new PSU so you may as well start there.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:03
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Pretty decent, if there was any sort of spike it'd hit your motherboard with very little trouble. A blow'd up PSU cost me a motherboard a few years back. No way to know for sure if anything else got hit until you try it - you know you need a new PSU so you may as well start there. I thought that motherboards were grounded when you screw them into your case using standoffs, at least thats what the Newegg TV guy lead me to believe.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:20
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Street Soldier posted:My PSU shorted out last night, it was an 80+ Silver certified unit with over power, over current, over voltage and short circuit protection, what are the chances that it fried my other components? If it's a simple short, probably nothing - a good PSU can detect most short and overcurrent situations, and shut itself down to protect everything. Fix the short, and you should be good with no replacement parts or anything. If you had fireworks, the chances of survival are better than with a crappy generic PSU, but there's still a possibility that things were hosed up. Only way to know for sure is to test them.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:23
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Street Soldier posted:I thought that motherboards were grounded when you screw them into your case using standoffs, at least thats what the Newegg TV guy lead me to believe. A good ground path always helps but it's not a guarantee. Maybe the rest of his computer is fine but he asked if it's possible that something else was damaged and it certainly is. The only way to know at this point is to try a new PSU.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:32
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Alright thanks guys. Thank god for warranties.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:36
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This is somewhat of a dumb/weird question... I discovered this today by accident: If I place my iPod touch (4th gen, if that matters at all) on top of my laptop touchpad, and move it from side to side in swiping motions... my touchpad malfunctions and becomes unusable, specifically, the cursor stops moving, or only moves like a milimeter in one direction, but not others. This problem doesn't seem to undo itself with time, and I can only restore functions to it by swiping my iPod on top of the touchpad again in random directions until I can use my mousepad again. I was amused by this for a quite a while, until I realized that I have no idea as to what I'm actually doing. Magnets kind of hit me as an obvious cause, but does an iPod really have that much magnetic force in it? Google didn't seem to offer any reference to this anywhere... so I'm wondering: What am I actually doing to my touchpad? Any longterm harm?
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Dec 11, 2011 20:50
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Didn't get any responses in the laptop thread and I'm not sure if its relevant there anymore but what were some kick rear end P3-mobile laptops? Did any P3-M chipsets support more than 1GB of memory?
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Dec 11, 2011 21:16
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Shaocaholica posted:Didn't get any responses in the laptop thread and I'm not sure if its relevant there anymore but what were some kick rear end P3-mobile laptops? Did any P3-M chipsets support more than 1GB of memory?
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Dec 11, 2011 21:46
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e: Wrong thread
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Dec 12, 2011 00:11
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Shaocaholica posted:Didn't get any responses in the laptop thread and I'm not sure if its relevant there anymore but what were some kick rear end P3-mobile laptops? Did any P3-M chipsets support more than 1GB of memory? Okay, I'll bite, but I have limited experience. I loved my Toshiba Portege M200 convertible tablet, and that used a Pentium M/Centrino. Plus they're easy to find on eBay in decent condition for $100 to $175. However, they have downsides. They use IDE drives, first-gen DDR SDRAM with the 1GB limit (you could try 2GB, but it's unsupported, so who knows if it would work), and the screen, while great in many ways, uses un-dithered 6-bit color so it bands like crazy on gradients. And a 1.13 GHz Pentium M is not much better than a modern netbook CPU, without the benefit of good graphics acceleration. I think the GeForce Go on the M200s topped out at DirectX 8, in fact, so you can't even use it for Aero or a lightweight log-on-to-MMO-and-do-menial-tasks machine. Plus the WiFi card is older and doesn't play well with Wireless-N setups. As much as I loved that machine, you'd be very hard pressed to convince me to buy one for serious use in this day and age. By the time you bought 2GB of RAM and get lucky that it works, you've spent as much as a new netbook on a machine that can't run Windows 7, might have network connection issues with newer APs, and has an ancient used hard drive. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Dec 12, 2011 |
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Dec 12, 2011 00:24
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Alereon posted:I have no idea about good P3-era laptops, but no Intel chipsets supported more than 1GB of RAM, Thanks. Somehow I've never browsed to that page on wikipedia despite bouncing around a ton of tech articles there. Factory Factory posted:Okay, I'll bite, but I have limited experience. Its not for practicality. I like to buy one old computer every winter holiday and see if I can get it to be 'granny' usable by today's standards. Of course some concessions need to be made such as flash and HD web video which I wouldn't count as a necessity. Sometimes I gift these away to family and sometimes I just hold onto them.
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Dec 12, 2011 00:55
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Are there any 2.5" to 3.5" hard drive adapters that work with hot swap drive trays? It's a Supermicro case and the hot swap trays only have the holes on the side for 3.5" drives and I want to put a few 2.5" drives into the server for testing. Does anyone make adapters for this? All the ones I've seen won't line up the 2.5" drive properly for the backplane connectors.
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Dec 12, 2011 02:02
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syzygy86 posted:Are there any 2.5" to 3.5" hard drive adapters that work with hot swap drive trays? It's a Supermicro case and the hot swap trays only have the holes on the side for 3.5" drives and I want to put a few 2.5" drives into the server for testing. They look like this: 
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Dec 12, 2011 02:07
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:WD's adapters ("Icepack") for their enterprise drives work. Apparently the part number is WDSL002B, though I had no idea they sold it seperately. Some retailers seem to carry it though. Google only finds 2 for sale, but in looking for that, I came across this which also does what I'm looking for: http://www.amazon.com/2-5-3-5-Ssd-sata-Convert/dp/B002Z2QDNE
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Dec 12, 2011 02:50
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Not sure what thread to put this in, but how would I go about determining the total power draw of my system? Is there some program I can download to tell me, or do I need some physical meter?
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Dec 12, 2011 02:55
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icantfindaname posted:Not sure what thread to put this in, but how would I go about determining the total power draw of my system? Is there some program I can download to tell me, or do I need some physical meter? Physical meter. Kill A Watts are ~$20.
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Dec 12, 2011 02:59
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You can guess by reading articles reviewing the various parts in your system that measure power draw from those doodads for you, the two biggest draws are your CPU and GPU, then miscellaneous junk like hard drives and whatnot eat a bit more.
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Dec 12, 2011 03:01
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syzygy86 posted:Google only finds 2 for sale, but in looking for that, I came across this which also does what I'm looking for: http://www.amazon.com/2-5-3-5-Ssd-sata-Convert/dp/B002Z2QDNE Why would you even need to have any electrical components in a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter? The SATA data and power connector is uniform for both sizes right? All you would need to do is add the extra mounting to a 2.5" drive and it should be physically and electronically identical to a 3.5" drive.
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Dec 12, 2011 03:04
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Shaocaholica posted:Why would you even need to have any electrical components in a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter? The SATA data and power connector is uniform for both sizes right? All you would need to do is add the extra mounting to a 2.5" drive and it should be physically and electronically identical to a 3.5" drive. That would be ideal, but I have yet to find something thats just a bracket that aligns the drive properly. The Dell servers we have don't have this problem since their drive trays have a bottom with holes for attaching a 2.5" drive. I also just found this, which looks like the PCB only contains the physical connectors: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=278&area=usa
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Dec 12, 2011 03:21
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Shaocaholica posted:Physical meter. Kill A Watts are ~$20. What about the internal DC/per-rail draw? Maybe I'm just being fussy but I don't really trust a Kill-a-watt since they only show AC draw, which is anything but 1:1 with what the components are drawing from the PSU.
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Dec 12, 2011 04:36
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You can check some components fairly easily. For example, you can use HWiNFO64 to check the CPU's self-reported power dissipation in Watts. I'm not sure about nVidia cards, but AMD cards measure their core voltage and their current draw in Amps. As P = VA (Watts = Volts * Amperes), you can multiply these together for power draw. For example, my Radeon 6850 draws 51A at 1.149V in Furmark, for a total power draw of ~59W. Equipment like hard drives, SSDs, and optical drives will list their maximum typical power requirements on their labels, which you can convert to Watts the same way. For example, a Spinpoint F3 1TB drive is rated for .5A on +12V and .7A on +5V, for a total of 9.5W draw. Fans will also have Amperage ratings, usually in mA, and they almost exclusively use +12V for power. Per-rail draw and total system draw aren't possible to measure from software. The only way to measure which rail is hooked where is to get a bunch of electronics testing equipment to put loads on and do testing and oy. You can either read a review where people have done this, or you just hope it works right. If you want to measure internal DC draw, the simplest way is to estimate the efficiency of the PSU at its current load (read up on 80+ certification levels, check reviews), and then multiply your wall draw by your efficiency. Like, a 200W draw at the wall at 85% efficiency means your system is drawing 170W DC internally. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Dec 12, 2011 |
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Dec 12, 2011 04:58
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:What about the internal DC/per-rail draw? Maybe I'm just being fussy but I don't really trust a Kill-a-watt since they only show AC draw, which is anything but 1:1 with what the components are drawing from the PSU. Oh you mean individual components against each rail they use? You did originally say 'total power draw'.
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Dec 12, 2011 05:35
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Shaocaholica posted:Oh you mean individual components against each rail they use? You did originally say 'total power draw'. When did I say anything about total power draw? 
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Dec 12, 2011 06:02
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:When did I say anything about total power draw? Oh sorry, I read your reply as the OP.
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Dec 12, 2011 06:20
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Shaocaholica posted:Why would you even need to have any electrical components in a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter? The SATA data and power connector is uniform for both sizes right? All you would need to do is add the extra mounting to a 2.5" drive and it should be physically and electronically identical to a 3.5" drive. This is WD's old design that didn't last very long. As you can imagine, it completely hosed with the enterprise market that expected to be able to toss them into 3.5" enclosures.  Also, most people don't know it but those extra pins are used by some customers for applications other than just jumper settings, so simply moving the SATA power and data connectors isn't enough. This is why they have their new Ice Pack design that's used on all current Velociraptors: 
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Dec 12, 2011 09:46
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:There are thermal, acoustic, and vibration considerations to take into effect when the drive is not mounted in the center of a bracket, which is why simply mounting the drive off-center is not ideal. It seems like they didn't design the 2.5" and 3.5" spec with this in mind or else they could have made it work with a simple center aligned plug for both formats that would have allowed the first WD icepack to work.
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Dec 12, 2011 17:00
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Shaocaholica posted:It seems like they didn't design the 2.5" and 3.5" spec with this in mind or else they could have made it work with a simple center aligned plug for both formats that would have allowed the first WD icepack to work. On the contrary, it's nice that in the world of SATA, we don't (normally) have different plugs for 2.5" and 3.5" versions, unlike IDE. They could have easily made the plugs line up, but they'd have had to redesign the case to have the drive offset from the center and low down, with the heatsink above the drive. Whether trapping heat above the drive is a good idea is another thing, but whether it needs a big rear end heatsink is also another question
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Dec 12, 2011 18:43
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I believe it was in this thread, someone said Seagate would replace drives with a single reallocated sector under warranty. Does anyone know which self service code would be correct? I called and sat on hold for a while only to be told that even new drives have reallocated sectors  and that the SeaTools long test can "fix" it. I mainly want to be able to RMA these three drives, the 1TB and 1.5TB have 2 and 1 reallocated sectors, and the 500GB one has 38, but the 1TB one's warranty is up in early February (all three run out in 2012.)I'm leaning toward "Failed other diagnostic" but I really want to avoid wasting time shipping these only to have them returned. http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/support/seatools/seatools-test-codes.html Oddhair fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 00:01
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Yeah, use failed other diagnostic, maybe put on a sticky note that says "bad sectors."
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Dec 13, 2011 00:09
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Oddhair posted:I believe it was in this thread, someone said Seagate would replace drives with a single reallocated sector under warranty. Does anyone know which self service code would be correct? I called and sat on hold for a while only to be told that even new drives have reallocated sectors
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Dec 13, 2011 00:27
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Steakandchips posted:I put the poor performance test code when my 1.5tb seagate started loving up. Replaced with no questions asked.
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Dec 13, 2011 01:08
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