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QPZIL posted:Did you see my post where I bought an RB67 body? I know this all too well... I admit to being slightly tipsy when i convinced myself to buy a refurb 5d2 from the loyalty program, before they ran out. I'm a pretty awesome negotiator, I convinced myself I would sell my 1d2, which still hasn't been sold because drunk me told sober me I needed a backup camera.
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Dec 7, 2011 19:53
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aliencowboy posted:I think drinking is probably the best advice you usually don't hear going into street photography, or at least for someone like myself who is pretty shy. By virtue of doing street photography, you're in an urban area, so walk 50 feet to the nearest bar and have a couple drinks and then get to work. Find the nearest bar? Rubbish, I can buy any alcohol I want here and drink it drat near anywhere I want. I have definitely went out more than once with a beer in one hand and a camera in the other hand. I try to live out every foreigner stereotype I can while I am here haha. But seriously. Just a drink or 2, depending on your tolerance. Don't go wild with it or you will be useless lol.
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Dec 7, 2011 19:56
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If I'm doing street photography I normally just wear a beer hat with two bottles of vodka mounted to it. It's like a race against my liver to see if I can get a good shot before I pass out.
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Dec 9, 2011 02:25
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XTimmy posted:If I'm doing street photography I normally just wear a beer hat with two bottles of vodka mounted to it. It's like a race against my liver to see if I can get a good shot before I pass out. Psssht. Lightweight.
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Dec 9, 2011 03:11
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Whenever I upload photos from my EP-1 into lightroom it seems to run some sort of automatic adjustment that makes any shadows look really grainy. Is there any way to get it to leave my shots alone?
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Dec 11, 2011 01:15
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So..I haven't done any HDR because I really was neve interested in the overdone look people sometimes create. But I decided to try it out just to learn and play with it for some landscapes. One question I have is I've seen some that have moving objects in stop motion. I thought the idea was to take 3-5 images and combine them so I'm slightly confused how the stop action examples are being created.
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Dec 11, 2011 04:04
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calcio posted:So..I haven't done any HDR because I really was neve interested in the overdone look people sometimes create. But I decided to try it out just to learn and play with it for some landscapes. One question I have is I've seen some that have moving objects in stop motion. I thought the idea was to take 3-5 images and combine them so I'm slightly confused how the stop action examples are being created. Sometimes it's possible to get enough information out of a RAW file to make an HDR image from a single exposure. Maybe that's what you saw.
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Dec 11, 2011 12:18
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You could probably take one shot with the moving subject, then wait for it to leave the frame and bracket the background.
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Dec 11, 2011 17:36
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I shot some Ilford 35mm b/w that I sent away for developing. I got it back and I scanned it in and it looks like this:  Is that a problem with my scanner? 35mm color film shoots fine with this camera.
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Dec 11, 2011 20:56
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the posted:I shot some Ilford 35mm b/w that I sent away for developing. It's hard to tell from the scan but it looks like the negative might be dirty as hell? Also the coding at the bottom doesn't quite seem to be in focus so you might have not had the film loaded in the carrier correctly.
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Dec 11, 2011 22:16
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I have a quick question, hopefully you guys know the answer: How well do DSLR cameras work in the extreme cold? I have a Cannon D30 and I'm going to be going to be taking pictures of things in -30C to -50C temperatures, are there going to be any problems I should be prepared for? I've heard that battery life is an issue so I have prepared for that. Should I steer clear of IS lenses or would any lens handle the temperature change equivalently?
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Dec 11, 2011 22:28
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Probably not at all well. There's tons of moving parts inside that might stick in the cold. Even the mighty 1D Mk4 has a specified operating temperature of 32 to 113 °F (0 to 45 °C).
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Dec 11, 2011 22:43
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Battery life will be absolute poo poo, and that's well outside Canon's approved operating parameters (0–40C for most bodies). But you can do it. I've done around -20 and have friends who have worked in roughly your temperatures. The LCDs will be drat near useless in those temperatures, you'll be lucky to get 50% of the full battery capacity, and there is the potential that the lubricants will thicken or freeze. Keep spare batteries in an inside jacket pocket, keep the camera inside an outer layer when possible, and pray to the appropriate god(s). (You can keep the camera in an inside layer if you're not exerting yourself, but you heighten the risk of condensation if you're working up a sweat.) Check your histograms if you can get the rear LCD to cooperate. Both the metering and the mechanicals can be affected by the cold, throwing your exposures off. In a nutshell, you'll get the best results keeping the camera in its operating parameters when not shooting, and whipping it out to make the shot. If that's not possible, it'll work and probably not break, but breakage is possible and temporary incorrect exposure is likely.
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Dec 11, 2011 22:58
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Keep two batteries on you, one in the camera, and then one in an internal pocket, inside your jacket. When the in-camera battery starts to falter, swap it out, and put the cold battery in the pocket, preferably near your skin. It'll suck, but warming up the battery will let you get some more shots out of it. When I was sleeping outside a lot in ~20 degree F weather, I'd sleep with my batteries inside my shirt, in my armpit.
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Dec 11, 2011 23:23
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Stereotype posted:I have a Cannon D30 and I'm going to be going to be taking pictures of things in -30C to -50C temperatures. Are you really trusting an 11 year old camera to this task? Or do you mean you have a 30D? (D30 released in 2000 and is 3mp, 30D in 2006 and is 8mp) If I was taking a trip to somewhere extreme like that I'd pick up a spare 20/30/40/50D body to take with me just in case.
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Dec 12, 2011 05:48
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David Pratt posted:Sometimes it's possible to get enough information out of a RAW file to make an HDR image from a single exposure. Maybe that's what you saw. http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/
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Dec 12, 2011 06:12
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I've been looking at website designs lately and here are three that I think are reasonably tidy. http://jasonmorey.com/index.html http://www.benpipe.com http://www.murrayfredericks.com.au I especially like the first one and it seems kind of common out there ie I've seen it more than once. Is there a set template or "website builder kit" that I can use to help manufacture the photography website of my dreams?
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Dec 12, 2011 07:46
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I got this cool old polaroid camera at the thrift store cheap and I'm wondering if it's worth tracking down film for it? Should I just let it sit and be cool?
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Dec 12, 2011 19:10
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Optimist with doubt posted:I got this cool old polaroid camera at the thrift store cheap and I'm wondering if it's worth tracking down film for it? Should I just let it sit and be cool? If you're willing to pay that much for it, you can get film packs that'll work for $3/exposure plus shipping from the Impossible Project. Definitely don't pay out the nose for expired Polaroid film on ebay.
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Dec 12, 2011 19:18
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Okay, so I'm fairly new to photography and for a class project I'm suppose to be mounting some prints. I've found plenty of tutorials on how to do this. However, my teacher want it done is a style he called GCOM mounting. I wasn't in class when he explained this and I haven't been able to find it online. Could anyone point me in the right direction? Otherwise, what would be the easiest/cheapest method?
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Dec 13, 2011 00:44
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Nushergrudger posted:Okay, so I'm fairly new to photography and for a class project I'm suppose to be mounting some prints. Does GCOM stand for Graphics Communication, as in a department at your school? If so, maybe there's some department-specific way your teacher wants it done.
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Dec 13, 2011 01:30
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CarrotFlowers posted:I tried to do street photography one time with my lovely old film camera and a nifty fifty and if a cop car hadn't drove by at the specific time the not-nice-looking dude behind me decided to get suspiciously close then turn around and walk away, I'm pretty sure I would have lost my gear. Best thing to do is to insure your gear for replacement value. I forget how much gear my gear is worth but it's somewhere between $5000 and $10000. I pay a little under $400 per year which also includes my renters insurance (something I'm required to have in the place that I rent). It covers loss, theft, and accidental damage with no deductible. Also mine covers me if I'm doing commercial work so if you're not a professional, you'll probably save more money. I'm a big dude so I normally don't' worry about people loving with me. However, I don't have that fear of screwing up my gear doing stupid stuff since I got insured. If I drop my 70-200 IS II in the water and fry it, I'll have a check the following week to buy a new one. Insurance is worth every penny.
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Dec 13, 2011 02:39
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Haggins posted:Best thing to do is to insure your gear for replacement value. I forget how much gear my gear is worth but it's somewhere between $5000 and $10000. I pay a little under $400 per year which also includes my renters insurance (something I'm required to have in the place that I rent). It covers loss, theft, and accidental damage with no deductible. Also mine covers me if I'm doing commercial work so if you're not a professional, you'll probably save more money. How did you choose your insurer? Did you just talk to your renters insurance company or did you have to shop around?
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Dec 13, 2011 04:38
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Haggins posted:Best thing to do is to insure your gear for replacement value. I forget how much gear my gear is worth but it's somewhere between $5000 and $10000. I pay a little under $400 per year which also includes my renters insurance (something I'm required to have in the place that I rent). It covers loss, theft, and accidental damage with no deductible. Also mine covers me if I'm doing commercial work so if you're not a professional, you'll probably save more money. That's smart. We also have renter's insurance and car insurance through the same company, who we get a discount through because of our professional membership (unrelated to photography). We were just talking about how we should increse our coverage amount since we've upped the value of poo poo in our house, so I'll look into insuring my gear when it's out of the house as well. Thanks for the reminder. Especially since the 5dmk2 will soon be mine....muhahaha.
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Dec 13, 2011 06:58
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What can I do to improve the contacts between flash and camera? I've tried cleaning with alcohol and eraser. It seemed to have helped for a short while but now it's back to normal. Sometimes it's just TTL, sometimes it won't fire, sometimes it's manual only, sometimes I can't even shoot  Flash: 430 EXII Camera: Canon 5D
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Dec 13, 2011 09:34
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I want to try and make a sunset time lapse, I like them and I'd really like to try and make my own. As I understand it, I should: - Set camera to manual - Set white balance to anything other then auto to keep consistency - Make a test photo to get a correct exposure - Set intervalometer to something like 1 shot every 10-20 seconds, depending on how I want it to look - Adjust exposure manually every X minutes - ??? - Profit Now, what is the best way to adjust the exposure here? Set aperture to like 5.6 or something and then adjust the shutter speed every 10-15 minutes, or whatever looks ok? Should I be changing both for the exposure, or should I try to adjust just 1 (shutter speed?).
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Dec 14, 2011 02:33
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Grazing Occultation posted:How did you choose your insurer? Did you just talk to your renters insurance company or did you have to shop around? I had a pretty good discount with the company I worked for at the time and they offered the option of deducting my payments in my weekly paycheck. It ended up only being a few dollars a week and I didn't even notice it. I'm with Metlife if you're curious. I just started a new job so I might switch if I get a better deal through Boeing.
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Dec 14, 2011 04:56
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I am beyond frustrated with my Wacom Bamboo tablet and Windows 7 combination. I posted about this before, I think but I looked online for a solution and haven't found one that works yet. Sometimes my tablet stops communicating with my computer randomly. For example tonight I was working in lightroom and everything was fine. I then opened up an image in photoshop and it just stopped working. Doesn't matter what usb port I plug it into, it just doesn't do anything. The light on the tablet lights up, but nothing happens on screen. Usually I just restart and hope for the best, but this is getting ridiculous. Any ideas??
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Dec 14, 2011 05:18
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Anyone have any ideas why EpsonScan gives me razor sharp scans, while Vuescan and Silverfast give me muddy blurry scans? I've tried both sharpening and not sharpening, but I must be doing something wrong. It's on a V500 by the way.
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Dec 14, 2011 05:24
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eBay Embryos posted:I want to try and make a sunset time lapse, I like them and I'd really like to try and make my own. Do you just want to capture the sunset? It'll be tricky to key in automagically, as you'll need to eyeball it to ensure its got the right exposure. You'll want to start with something like ISO 100, F8, 1/2000 when the sun in blazing in the sky, and slowly but surely increase the shutter speed over the course of the hour or however long it is. You'll probably end up being on like 1/2 second exposures by the time it's totally down.. but you'll need to constantly adjust exposure as you go. Just sit there and manually fire it.. it'll be less painful than trying to figure out what exposure to set.
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Dec 14, 2011 05:26
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Cyberbob posted:Do you just want to capture the sunset? It'll be tricky to key in automagically, as you'll need to eyeball it to ensure its got the right exposure. I would also use bracketing to reduce your chances of loving up.
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Dec 14, 2011 15:02
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Ok, thanks for the tips. I'll start trying to learn this from my apartments terrace so I dont waste so much time going to a nice place and loving it all up  As for the bracketing, this means I'll be taking at least 3 photos at the same time during each interval? That'll drive up the number of photos, but I can see how it could help me.
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Dec 14, 2011 16:46
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the posted:I shot some Ilford 35mm b/w that I sent away for developing.
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Dec 14, 2011 22:28
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So I'm trying to set up a tablet (vizio vtab1008) as a quick mobile portfolio. Every photo looks great on it, except ones from this series: Tranquil by Chris Hayden Photo, on Flickr I can't reproduce it, but for some reason, most of the skin on her cheeks, nose, chin, even parts of her lip have this weird yellow-magenta brightness to them, but the areas immediately around her eyes, nose and mouth look normal, which makes for a strange raccoon-like effect. It's as if someone used a hard dodge/burn brush on her skin, without regard for detailing around the features. The effect disappears if I tilt the screen away diagonally. The only thing I can think of is that the affected areas have 0% black on the CMYK sample point, while the normal areas have 4-6%. Reviews I read said that the screen is fairly poor at reproducing light brown tones, but it affects tones that should be identical. It's the weirdest thing.
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Dec 17, 2011 21:49
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Is there a universal good waterproof camera or are waterproof cases the way to go for these things for other digital cameras.
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Dec 19, 2011 16:21
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red19fire posted:So I'm trying to set up a tablet (vizio vtab1008) as a quick mobile portfolio. Every photo looks great on it, except ones from this series: FWIW I can see it pretty easily on my lovely non-calibrated laptop screen as well in the other photos of that set. Maybe your computer is hiding it from ya?
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Dec 19, 2011 16:31
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:FWIW I can see it pretty easily on my lovely non-calibrated laptop screen as well in the other photos of that set. Maybe your computer is hiding it from ya? So the emperor is naked? Welp, I guess I need to re-process all of those on my other crappy laptop, tonight. red19fire fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 19, 2011 |
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Dec 19, 2011 16:42
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TLG James posted:Is there a universal good waterproof camera or are waterproof cases the way to go for these things for other digital cameras. I have no expertise in this, but my friends just bought a waterproof camera for a colleague for a wedding/honeymoon present. I looked at the most recent dpreview group test. We got the panasonic TS-3 since it seemed to be the best camera with the best underwater operation according to the review. I'll find out in January how he and his wife liked it. You haven't given any details of what you want, so this is completely irrelevant if you want something for a dslr or for scuba diving...
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Dec 19, 2011 18:34
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I have no expertise in this, but my friends just bought a waterproof camera for a colleague for a wedding/honeymoon present. I looked at the most recent dpreview group test. We got the panasonic TS-3 since it seemed to be the best camera with the best underwater operation according to the review. I'll find out in January how he and his wife liked it. Just for snorkeling. Not more than 15 feet diving down or so. Just a normal point and shoot.
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Dec 19, 2011 19:41
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TLG James posted:Just for snorkeling. Not more than 15 feet diving down or so. Just a normal point and shoot. I've used the TS3 before and it's good. You'll be happy with it I think. Whatever you get, test the waterproofing as soon as you get it. Read the instructions, seal it up, and then dunk it in a bucket of water for a while. Ideally, you want to figure out if you got a dud before you go on vacation.
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Dec 19, 2011 19:51
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