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movax posted:Didn't stop me from buying a portable jump-starter as a knee-jerk reaction though. How much are these? I didn't even know this was a thing. I think I want one.
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Dec 15, 2011 18:22
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Blakkout posted:How much are these? I didn't even know this was a thing. I think I want one. I got this giant Clore unit (extreme overkill) for $125 shipped w/ Amazon Prime, but they make smaller ones as well, in like the $70 range too. One of my buddies has a Walmart "all-in-one" compressor, light, kitchen sink unit and it sucks. I think a lot of the negative reviews may be user error as well 
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Dec 15, 2011 18:43
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movax posted:Pulled some coupons out of my rear end and used some $50 Audi service card I got, so it was "only" $160 to have the dealer put in a new OEM battery for me and clear all the codes. Get one of these and then download VCDS.
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Dec 15, 2011 19:31
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MustardFacial posted:Get one of these and then download VCDS. That's much better. Thought VCDS was only sold with the cable though (cable acts as HW dongle), or do I need VCDS-Lite? Or did I miss a very subtle suggestion in your post?
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Dec 15, 2011 21:23
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movax posted:That's much better. Thought VCDS was only sold with the cable though (cable acts as HW dongle), or do I need VCDS-Lite? I wasn't aware the cable acted as a dongle, you could try it anyways the worst that will happen is that it won't work and in that case just use VCDS-Lite.
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Dec 15, 2011 21:32
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movax posted:So, dealer quoted $220 for new battery + installation + resetting all codes (radio, etc), argh. Service guy stated that CPO warranty only covers the battery for 1yr/12,000 miles and it's been 2 years/33k miles since I got it so that makes sense, I suppose. Were a lot of those replacements you did my1999gsr within that timeframe? We only cover batteries if they're within the CPO covered mileage/time. If it's close then the service manager can decide if we offer some goodwill coverage which we often do.
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Dec 15, 2011 23:54
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How good of a deal is Audi's prepaid maintenance plan?
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Dec 15, 2011 23:57
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movax posted:Pulled some coupons out of my rear end and used some $50 Audi service card I got, so it was "only" $160 to have the dealer put in a new OEM battery for me and clear all the codes. VAG-COM is really, really helpful if you don't have access to factory scan tools. I've been considering buying the software and cable and I DO have access to the VAG equipment.
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Dec 15, 2011 23:57
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DerDestroyer posted:How good of a deal is Audi's prepaid maintenance plan? No idea - I don't get to see the cost of the package but the customers I've talked to seem to like it.
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Dec 15, 2011 23:59
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It's pretty amazing what I've been able to do on my 98 Jetta TDI with a (borrowed) VAG-COM. I'm assuming that you can do even more on newer cars.
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Dec 16, 2011 08:01
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DerDestroyer posted:How good of a deal is Audi's prepaid maintenance plan? IF you're going to follow the required service schedule and IF you're going to have the dealership do it, then it's a good deal (IIRC ~$750 for ~$2000 of required maintenance, more than that if you have to replace DSG tranny fluid on your car). If you plan on doing it yourself or going to an independent shop it might not be a good deal. They used to have an itemized list of what was covered and what it would cost to have the dealership do the maintenance right on the service desk, but I'm not sure if they still have that.
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Dec 16, 2011 17:50
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Oh god damnit... I think I'm buying an audi. Even worse, it's not a quattro. gently caress. craigslist posted:1995 Audi 90 - with new Snow Tires - $950 I went and checked it out. It seemed alright. Nothing exploded when it started. No bad smells, the injectors worked (loudly). It is in fact missing the front facia. Basically I have no loving clue what I'm looking for. Tires and brakes are new, so that's a plus. But, I'm worried about other stuff like the water pump (esp since there's a leak) and CV joints, etc... How prone are those to failure and how many miles can you reasonably expect out of them? The other thing that jumps out at me is she bought the car with a blown head gasket and replaced it and the timing belts (yes, herself), but didn't replace the serp belt or water pump or anything while she was at it. Should this concern me? I guess what I'm saying is, I really want an 80's BMW. So I'm basically looking for any reason not to buy this awesomely good deal solely because it's FWD. Can any of you scare me off or help me know what to look for? GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Dec 16, 2011 |
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Dec 16, 2011 18:05
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Oh god damnit... I think I'm buying an audi. Even worse, it's not a quattro. It's a 16 year old Audi with a known coolant leak. You already know what you're getting into. Finding parts at a pick and pull might be hard depending on where you live, but for $950 I don't think you have much to lose. As far as replacing the other items, yes she should have done it while she was in there. Even if the serp belt looks good it's of unknown age, so I would replace that as a matter of course. The water pump is less of an immediate issue, but it could be a culprit for the missing coolant if it's leaking from the seals. If you can deal with having to hunt for parts and can get over the FWD, it seems like a good buy. It's drastically cheaper than an 80's BMW out of the gate, the only unknown I'd be concerned with is the cost of replacement parts if you can find them. Edit: Wait, did you check the oil and coolant to see if they were mixing (i.e. headgasket repair wasn't properly done)? If that looks good and it doesn't smell like it's burning coolant then your leak has to be somewhere else. Probably a cracked hose, leaking radiator, or leaking water pump.
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Dec 16, 2011 18:15
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SwashedBuckles posted:I'd be concerned with is the cost of replacement parts if you can find them. This is also my main concern. Parts are most likely not easy to find OR cheap. But, I'm really just looking for something to get me through the winter, and this already has the tires... damnit SwashedBuckles posted:Edit: Wait, did you check the oil and coolant to see if they were mixing (i.e. headgasket repair wasn't properly done)? If that looks good and it doesn't smell like it's burning coolant then your leak has to be somewhere else. Probably a cracked hose, leaking radiator, or leaking water pump. I'm sorry I should have specified that it ran fine. I didn't drive it. And the coolant is in fact NOT getting into the oil. It's not a ghost leak, it shows under car but only when running. That's what makes me think it's the water pump leaking. Possibly radiator.
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Dec 16, 2011 18:20
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is also my main concern. Parts are most likely not easy to find OR cheap. Parts are easy to find for the most part. At least the things that are likely to keep you from driving it. Fiddly bits for the interior or similar may be a different story. You just need to get used to the idea that you can have it now/tomorrow at an exorbitant price (overnight shipping or a dealer), or you can wait for shipping from most likely CA. I use pelican parts, and I'm on the east coast, so I know I'm waiting. If you're OK with that, and the fact that a parts still cost real money compared to a chevy ($100-200 water pump ordered, $300 at the dealer as opposed to a $15 pump from AutoZone that you can just drive over and pick up right now) you'll be fine. But not everyone is able to wait a week for parts, so the bills stack up. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm sorry I should have specified that it ran fine. I didn't drive it. And the coolant is in fact NOT getting into the oil. It's not a ghost leak, it shows under car but only when running. That's what makes me think it's the water pump leaking. Possibly radiator. If I recall, the water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. So here's the issue: that pump seizes and your valves meet your pistons pretty quick, as the belt is going to tear if the pump stops spinning. I would consider part of the cost of buying this car a water pump and timing belt job, along with hoses, a serp belt and possibly the radiator. Figure out what those parts cost, what ill will cost you to get them installed (or your own time), add that to the asking price and decide if its worth it to you.
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Dec 16, 2011 18:35
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Motronic posted:If I recall, the water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. So here's the issue: that pump seizes and your valves meet your pistons pretty quick, as the belt is going to tear if the pump stops spinning. I would consider part of the cost of buying this car a water pump and timing belt job, along with hoses, a serp belt and possibly the radiator. Figure out what those parts cost, what ill will cost you to get them installed (or your own time), add that to the asking price and decide if its worth it to you. you recall correctly. Which is why I'm wondering, "you replaced the timing belts but not the water pump... whyyyyy?" I can get a timing belt and water pump kit for south of $200 which isn't bad. It's not gonna snow anytime soon so I've probably got a month to get it done before I need the car. I'm definitely used to waiting for parts; I work on 70's Honda bikes. A lot of the stuff I order comes straight from Japan.
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Dec 16, 2011 20:24
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Since you obviously know where to get parts at the right prices, know you'll wait, and can do the work I see no reason NOT to go for this car at that price or a bit less after driving it. What else is likely to go wrong? Electronic fiddly bits inside. At 140k and if they haven't been done already, ball joints and dampers. Probably sway bar bushings. I'd want to get each front wheel in the air and see how it feels. But at sub-$1k, you don't have all the much to lose, nor very far to negotiate down considering a set of new snows and front brakes on it.
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Dec 16, 2011 20:42
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Motronic posted:Since you obviously know where to get parts at the right prices, know you'll wait, and can do the work I see no reason NOT to go for this car at that price or a bit less after driving it. Alright, one last question: Where the hell can I find a freaking front bumper (excuse me, fascia) for this thing? I've looked all over and have had no luck. I'm not necessarliy looking for stock parts. Id consider a decent looking aftermarket bumper cover. I just don't know what the hell I'm doing / if I'm using the right search terms.
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Dec 16, 2011 21:09
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Alright, one last question: Where the hell can I find a freaking front bumper (excuse me, fascia) for this thing? I've looked all over and have had no luck. That's the kind of thing that ends up retardedly expensive on a car like this unless you find it on a parts car. I'd try trolling audiforums.com and the like to find someone with something they are parting out. That's how I've repaired numerous older Porsches and Audis on the cheap.
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Dec 16, 2011 21:16
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Motronic posted:That's the kind of thing that ends up retardedly expensive on a car like this unless you find it on a parts car. I'd try trolling audiforums.com and the like to find someone with something they are parting out. That's how I've repaired numerous older Porsches and Audis on the cheap. a-trolling I will go. I spec'd earlier and didn't find much in the 90's section. Are there other Audi forums I should be aware of? (besides audi world)
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Dec 16, 2011 21:22
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:a-trolling I will go. I spec'd earlier and didn't find much in the 90's section. Are there other Audi forums I should be aware of? (besides audi world) Audizine if you can handle it. It's sometimes a little to show/no go for me, but when looking for parts who cares.
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Dec 16, 2011 22:09
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Check with http://www.force5auto.com/ they are an Audi/VW only wrecking yard.
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Dec 16, 2011 23:38
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The cruise control on my 09 Rabbit has stopped working, anyone know which fuse I should be checking?
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Dec 19, 2011 16:01
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The coolant in my 2007 GTI is orange. I don't think it's G12, because as far as I can tell that only came in pink and purple. How hosed am I?
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Dec 19, 2011 16:05
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my1999gsr posted:VAG-COM is really, really helpful if you don't have access to factory scan tools. I've been considering buying the software and cable and I DO have access to the VAG equipment. Yeah, the last versions of all the VAG factory software I have is back from 2009 or so, when I was in that industry, but I don't even have a decent CAN dongle anymore (was using CANCard X/XLs). I think I might pick this up for Christmas and go nuts with it...and perhaps loan it out to some goons in exchange for regional beer or something too.  My CEL came on the day after I got back from the dealer, stayed for 2 days, and then disappeared before I had a chance to swing into AutoZone and pull codes. Are the DTCs still logged, or did the fault condition resolve itself and reset DTCs?
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Dec 19, 2011 16:31
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movax posted:Yeah, the last versions of all the VAG factory software I have is back from 2009 or so, when I was in that industry, but I don't even have a decent CAN dongle anymore (was using CANCard X/XLs). I think I might pick this up for Christmas and go nuts with it...and perhaps loan it out to some goons in exchange for regional beer or something too. I don't think the DTCs reset. At least this summer when I pulled some codes after the CEL turned off on it's own they were still there. Also, I'm very glad that I have a cheap obd-usb cable to use with vcds-lite. Not as full featured as a vagcom, but it's still super handy if you're cheap.
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Dec 19, 2011 19:08
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Mr. Despair posted:I don't think the DTCs reset. At least this summer when I pulled some codes after the CEL turned off on it's own they were still there. Ahh, VCDS-Lite is free. I think that and the $35 cable that got linked will be a much better start than jumping to the $350 cable + VCDS immediately; have you found anything you've been unable to do with that setup Mr. Despair?
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Dec 19, 2011 19:15
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movax posted:Ahh, VCDS-Lite is free. I think that and the $35 cable that got linked will be a much better start than jumping to the $350 cable + VCDS immediately; have you found anything you've been unable to do with that setup Mr. Despair? I can't remember the features it locks out off the top of my head, but I know I've used it to pull and clear codes, and do things like pulling real time rpm and sensor data. The only thing I've noticed is that it doesn't decode most error codes for you, it just spits out the number and you have to google what it means for yourself, instead of telling you what it means like the paid version would. If there's a specific feature you're looking to check though, let me know and I can try it out tonight and see if it works or not.
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Dec 19, 2011 19:20
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What are some of the best colors on the Golf? I was thinking something like Blue Graphite Pearl.
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Dec 19, 2011 19:25
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Mr. Despair posted:I can't remember the features it locks out off the top of my head, but I know I've used it to pull and clear codes, and do things like pulling real time rpm and sensor data. Right now I just want the ability to pull codes (for later Googling/calling the dealer/posting here) and to poke at a few modules (setting my windows to auto roll-down after holding unlock on the fob comes to mind).
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Dec 19, 2011 19:53
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timb posted:The coolant in my 2007 GTI is orange. I don't think it's G12, because as far as I can tell that only came in pink and purple. It probably has dexcool in it. Dexcool and G12 are very very similar so someone probably used it as a topoff instead of the proper stuff. They should mix fine without damaging anything but I don't know for 100% sure. 2007 probably came with pink G12 so it's hard to tell how much of each is in there because the colors are similar. I've used dexcool to top off our jetta (only needed a tiny bit and I'm lazy) but I make no claims that it's absolutely safe.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:11
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movax posted:Right now I just want the ability to pull codes (for later Googling/calling the dealer/posting here) and to poke at a few modules (setting my windows to auto roll-down after holding unlock on the fob comes to mind). The first one you can definitively do, the second one is a "maybe". I think you might need to register to recode stuff, but that's still only 99 bucks compared to 250+ for a full vagcom setup (and I think you can count that cost towards a full setup if you change your mind later). http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/manual/coding.html Is what the coding section looks like, if you know what you need to change it'll probably let you do it. That's also part of a pretty nice online demo that you can poke around with too, and http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html has a list of what features it has/doesn't have compared to the full software.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:24
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DerDestroyer posted:What are some of the best colors on the Golf? I was thinking something like Blue Graphite Pearl. I got united grey, just happened to be the color of the car that had all the options I wanted when I checked the dealership. My GLI was platinum grey so I'm used to having a grey car. It's nice because it doesn't show off the dirt as bad as some of the brighter colors.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:37
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lazer_chicken posted:It probably has dexcool in it. Dexcool and G12 are very very similar so someone probably used it as a topoff instead of the proper stuff. They should mix fine without damaging anything but I don't know for 100% sure. 2007 probably came with pink G12 so it's hard to tell how much of each is in there because the colors are similar. I was thinking DexCool as well. If it was silicate free it shouldn't be too bad. I'm just worried the PO did his own coolant flush or something. The reason this came to my attention is I'm getting a "Warning! Coolant Low! Pull over and check owner's manual!" on the MFD. When I first got this, the coolant was above the min-line, so I thought the sensor might be bugging out, but when I checked it yesterday the coolant was down an inch or so below the min-line, but still well covering the sensor prongs. I've been getting this message for a few months now. Sometimes it comes on when I start the car, other times it comes on after a few minutes of driving. With that said I've got two follow-up questions: A) If there's enough coolant in the container to cover the sensor prongs, there has to be a problem in the wiring, right? B) If I am losing coolant, it's happening very slowly and I'm not seeing leaks or drips anywhere. veedubfreak posted:I got united grey, just happened to be the color of the car that had all the options I wanted when I checked the dealership. My GLI was platinum grey so I'm used to having a grey car. It's nice because it doesn't show off the dirt as bad as some of the brighter colors. It really does hide the dirt well. Same reason I got gray wheels: Hides the brake dust.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:53
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DerDestroyer posted:What are some of the best colors on the Golf? I was thinking something like Blue Graphite Pearl. Shark Blue. Plenty of gray/silver cars out there, black is a nightmare to keep clean, and red is too boy racer.
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Dec 20, 2011 05:31
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Bovril Delight posted:red is too boy racer. 
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Dec 20, 2011 05:39
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DogDodger posted:Lies. Wow I like that garage, or rather, the contents.
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Dec 20, 2011 18:47
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DogDodger posted:Lies. Awesome. My black A4 happens to be the only non-red car in the family. When you like them, you like them.
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Dec 21, 2011 10:31
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timb posted:
I'd probably start with the sensor itself first before tearing into the wiring.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:04
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warcake posted:I'd probably start with the sensor itself first before tearing into the wiring. It's getting continuity. It's literally two metal prongs that complete a circuit inside the expansion tank.
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Dec 21, 2011 20:23
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