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stubblyhead posted:Now you're talking. That should work fine. The back side of the connectors aren't soldered though, they use a punchdown tool. If you're just doing a few of them you can get away with a cheap version of the tool.
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Dec 19, 2011 22:12
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In seriousness though, I think the wall plates you posted would probably work. I'm guessing I'd plug the cable into the connector on either side of the wall, and have a short length of cable between them with each individual wire soldered to the back side of the connectors?
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| # ? May 9, 2024 09:54 |
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Why wouldn't you just have a F-F connector on the inside of the plate?
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Dec 19, 2011 22:27
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Splizwarf posted:Why wouldn't you just have a F-F connector on the inside of the plate? Sure, that would work too. Know where I can get one that will fit into that plate and is exactly as long as my wall is thick?
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Dec 19, 2011 22:47
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I don't know where to get them in the first place, Lowes? Nobody makes what I want so I gave up a while back. Not sure what you mean by "as long as my wall is thick", are you not putting a box behind the plate? Those plates are just covers for boxes, usually. Don't see why they couldn't make an L-shaped F-F, though.
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Dec 19, 2011 23:04
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Not sure what you mean by an F-F connector, one of those couplers? The only kind of keystone jacks I've ever seen are always punchdown on the inside. This is what you need to do it with keystone jacks: 2 low voltage brackets 2 RJ45 keystone jacks 2 wall plates punchdown tool and short length of CAT5 to sacrifice.
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Dec 19, 2011 23:34
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Splizwarf posted:I don't know where to get them in the first place, Lowes? Nobody makes what I want so I gave up a while back. Oh, I think I see what you're saying now. I thought you were suggesting that I use a coupler such that one end was the jack on one side of the wall and the other side was the jack on the other side of the wall. I think Cpt.Wacky and I are on the same page though. Cpt.Wacky, your links for the keystone jacks and the wall plates are the same. Is this what I need for the keystone jacks?
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Dec 19, 2011 23:57
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Sorry, yeah, too many tabs open. Pick your favorite color. I think orange is traditional for data around here.
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Dec 20, 2011 00:56
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I'm looking for a way to make a thin, lightweight dome/hemisphere of approximately 20-25" in diameter for a Bioshock Big Daddy costume I'm making. It doesn't have to be transparent but it does have to be tough enough to be capable of having several portholes dremelled out of it. I'm using this as a rough guide (scroll down to get to the pics of the dome). Unfoortunately I can't find any of the old security domes this guy used. I'm located in Western Australia so that makes shipping options very limited, hence the preference in making one instead of buying. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.
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Dec 20, 2011 03:44
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Sorry, I meant a female to female Ethernet jack. Normally people use them for chaining shorter sections of cable, but I didn't see why it wouldn't be simplest to just plug in to both sides, rather than have to sort out the pins on both ends.
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Dec 20, 2011 04:27
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jassa posted:I'm looking for a way to make a thin, lightweight dome/hemisphere of approximately 20-25" in diameter for a Bioshock Big Daddy costume I'm making. It doesn't have to be transparent but it does have to be tough enough to be capable of having several portholes dremelled out of it. Spacehopper, paper mache. If you can't get a space hopper, try for a big ballon. Make it thick enough (10+ layers) & it'll survive a dremelling.
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Dec 20, 2011 10:46
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Corla Plankun posted:Just buy a couple of these and the appropriate Cat 5 or Cat 6 inserts, a few cables and call it a day. If that is not relatively neat enough you could call in a trim carpenter to put gold-plated flute and rosette molding around them. Also a good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. I guess when I think wall plate, I think of something somewhat more sophisticated. (I have wall plates in nearly every room, and drops into the basement where the router/switch rack is).
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Dec 20, 2011 15:22
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My girlfriend lives in a 3 story townhome. This is her first winter the upstairs (3rd floor) is incredibly cold, while the downstairs (where the thermostat is, single zone) is comfortable. She has forced air heating, floor vents on the second floor, and ceiling vents on the third. There is a large attic space above the unit, so the only thing I can figure out is that the hot air from the furnace is getting cooled inside the attic before it gets pumped down into the rooms. Does that make sense? Is there a way I can get to the bottom of this? I tried to poke my head into the attic through the tiny entrance, but the builder laid insulation over it, so I can just barely see in. e: Sorry bout the double post 
Dragyn fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Dec 20, 2011 |
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Dec 20, 2011 17:39
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Dragyn posted:Also a good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. I guess when I think wall plate, I think of something somewhat more sophisticated. (I have wall plates in nearly every room, and drops into the basement where the router/switch rack is). Yeah if I had a bigger house and more money I'd do something like this too, but it's just not necessary where I'm living now. Next house! 
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Dec 20, 2011 19:52
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I wanna cover something in tweed or tolex, but the point is that it's one of these here things and the corners are gonna throw me for a loop. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with covering something with tolex and where I should be making cuts to the material and so forth. I could eyeball it, but that has never really worked out for me.
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Dec 20, 2011 23:59
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scuz posted:I wanna cover something in tweed or tolex, Unless you just have the tolex laying around I would get some custom printed vinyl.
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Dec 21, 2011 09:36
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wormil posted:Unless you just have the tolex laying around I would get some custom printed vinyl.
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Dec 21, 2011 16:06
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Cakefool posted:Spacehopper, paper mache. If you can't get a space hopper, try for a big ballon. Make it thick enough (10+ layers) & it'll survive a dremelling. Thanks - I was discounting paper mache because of lovely craft projects I made in school when I was a kid. Did a little research and discovered there are some good recipes/techniques for making it really strong and durable. So long as it doesn't get too heavy I think paper mache should be great for this.  Followup question: I've never used a dremel before, would it be safe to use one to cut through paper mache reinforced by chicken wire and/or aluminum foil? jassa fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Dec 21, 2011 |
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Dec 21, 2011 17:06
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jassa posted:
Absolutely, just use a metal cutting head and wear eye protection, just in case. \/\/\/\/ Great Stuff is one of the hardest to remove materials I've ever worked with. I wasn't wearing gloves using it once and it got on my fingernails. I had to wait for the residue to grow out because it just wouldn't come off. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Dec 21, 2011 |
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Dec 21, 2011 17:19
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I need to build a bounding box so Ic an make some sculpted backgrounds out of greatstuff foam. Only problem is I am not certain what materials I can use that the foam will not bond to. The GreatStuff website makes the following mention but is not too specific: GREAT STUFF™ will not bond to nonstick-coated surfaces, paste wax and some polyethylene plastics. Does anyone through experience know which polyethylene plastics? Can I just wrap wooden walls with shrink wrap or is there something better?
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Dec 21, 2011 17:19
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nesbit37 posted:I need to build a bounding box so Ic an make some sculpted backgrounds out of greatstuff foam. Only problem is I am not certain what materials I can use that the foam will not bond to. The GreatStuff website makes the following mention but is not too specific: I'm just making a guess here, but wax paper might work.
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Dec 21, 2011 17:23
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scuz posted:But just lookit how loving awesome this is: BAM. I sorta wanted the tactile feel along with the appearance, so I think I'll just simplify the box instead of making multiple complicated cuts. I don't know the right way but I would cut one piece big enough to cover the top and sides. Put down the top with spray glue, let it dry a few minutes. Lay down two sides with spray glue and trim flush to the corner. Then do the last two sides leaving about a 3/8" tab that I could fold over and glue down. Or you could relieve the corners at 45 degrees and make butt joints but that requires more precision.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:53
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I would cheat and put some simple wood trim on the left and right sides, saving me from having to make any complicated cuts in tolex. Jigsaw work is much easier.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:59
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This is a pretty good guide on doing it to a guitar cab. Should be able to adapt it to your project fairly easily. http://guitarkitbuilder.com/content/how-apply-tolex-guitar-amplifier-cabinet
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Dec 21, 2011 20:11
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Thanks dudes! That guide fuckin' rules, gonna follow that as close as possible.
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Dec 22, 2011 02:57
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I want to make a cheap table. Nothing fancy, just a big dining table. The thing is, I know nothing about building. I thought about finding a giant slab of wood panel and attach 4 of these to it : http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70105292/ Is there any reason this wouldn't work? I figure perhaps I would need middle support but I figure I can do that by buying like 4 2x4s and building support and attaching the table legs to that - then place the wood paneling on top. Is this feasible?
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Dec 23, 2011 06:48
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Very feasible. If you're not planning on getting fancy just make the simple frame, lay wood on top then attach legs. I've seen a couple made with tongue & groove boards for the top.
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Dec 23, 2011 07:08
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:I figure perhaps I would need middle support but I figure I can do that by buying like 4 2x4s and building support and attaching the table legs to that - then place the wood paneling on top. If the top is thick and rigid enough you won't need support. What size table and what will you use for the top?
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Dec 23, 2011 07:25
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wormil posted:If the top is thick and rigid enough you won't need support. What size table and what will you use for the top? Not quite sure on size - I'm going to go to a hardware store after the holidays and see what options are available. I want something that can fit 8 chairs (3 on the sides and 1 on each end). I probably want a slab of wood that will be 2 inch thick and wide enough for me to work with giant art projects. Since I'm here, can anyone tell me how much I should expect to pay for wood?
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Dec 23, 2011 08:46
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Unless you find a slice of redwood, no chance. Better idea, glue 2x2s or 2x4s side by side to the length & width you require, sand to finish.
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Dec 23, 2011 08:57
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Cakefool posted:Unless you find a slice of redwood, no chance. That sounds interesting - would I just need wood glue then? Wouldn't I need notches to secure the wood better? Or am I underestimating the power of wood glue?
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Dec 23, 2011 09:15
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HVAC question - My furnace (Carrier "Weathermaker" 58SX, circa early 90s) has developed an ignition problem. When it turns on everything works the way it should until the main burners need to light. I'll hear the gas valve solenoid kick, followed by a brief sputter of flame from the main burners that lasts 2-3 seconds. This will repeat for 5-10 minutes, during which time the solenoid on the valve kicks randomly and I get the same sputtering flame from the burners. Eventually the burners light and stay lit and all is well until the furnace turns off. Is this something I can handle on my own (bad thermocouple or flame sensor, etc.) or do I need to call a professional?
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Dec 23, 2011 10:21
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:That sounds interesting - would I just need wood glue then? Wouldn't I need notches to secure the wood better? Or am I underestimating the power of wood glue? Just a decent wood glue & clamps. Also, looking at the end-grain of the wood, you want to a alternate the patterns so the grain goes smiley-face, frowny face, smiley face etc. this will reduce warping. Don't skimp on the glue, clamp together, leave to dry then sand the excess glue off afterwards. You'll also take that opportunity to make sure the ends are flat/level, getting it right before the glueing will be quite difficult.
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Dec 23, 2011 10:59
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Cakefool posted:Better idea, glue 2x2s or 2x4s side by side to the length & width you require, sand to finish. Haha, UK poster spotted. If he's in the US it's going to be a pain in the rear end to find that many 2x2s or 2x4s that all warped the same way.  There are no straight ones over here, our homebuilders don't give any fucks so the woodsellers don't either.
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Dec 23, 2011 14:16
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That many 2-bys from someone who actually cuts them properly and out of a real wood (not cheap-rear end lovely pine) and it'll cost as much, if not more, as buying a proper countertop. He'd be better off laminating a bunch of wide boards together into a tabletop, or buying a prefabricated top, and then coating the finished slab with a veneer of whatever wood he wants. The top of my desk, for example, is several 1x12s of decent wood laminated together into a 2"x5'x3' slab. All you need to do the lamination is a lot of glue, and a lot, lot more weight to throw on top of it. corgski fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 14:34
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I have always felt that a work surface is a bad deal if it doesn't have 1/4-inch steel as the top layer. 
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Dec 23, 2011 14:40
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:I want to make a cheap table. You can get a sheet of plywod, but you're not going to be able to find a wood slab. If you're going to build a solid wood top, don't look in lumber (that grade is for framing, NOT for cabinetry, and you'd never be able to join them properly), look in shelving. Get some 1x10 or 1x12 shelves and biscuit-join (or dowels if you don't have a biscuit joiner) them together. You'll still want to reinforce them for stiffness; a framework of 1x3s set back a bit from the edge would probably work well, with some solid blocks fastened in the corners to attach the legs. grover fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 14:56
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thelightguy posted:That many 2-bys from someone who actually cuts them properly and out of a real wood (not cheap-rear end lovely pine) and it'll cost as much, if not more, as buying a proper countertop. This is a better idea if 2x4s are too expensive. Don't underestimate the weight required though, a few paint tins will not cut it. If you can bodge up a vacuum bag that won't end up glued to the wood this will be sufficient.
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Dec 23, 2011 15:32
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Splizwarf posted:Haha, UK poster spotted. If he's in the US it's going to be a pain in the rear end to find that many 2x2s or 2x4s that all warped the same way.
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Dec 23, 2011 18:21
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Laminating a bunch of wide board together sounds interesting. How I would go about laminating? The only lamination process I'm aware of is taking papers to a kinkos but I'm pretty sure this process is different 
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Dec 23, 2011 18:39
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| # ? May 9, 2024 09:54 |
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You could also use an 8' luan veneer hollow-core door as your tabletop. For added stiffness, add another sheet of finish=grade plywood on top.
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Dec 23, 2011 18:48
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