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movax posted:Yeah, the last versions of all the VAG factory software I have is back from 2009 or so, when I was in that industry, but I don't even have a decent CAN dongle anymore (was using CANCard X/XLs). I think I might pick this up for Christmas and go nuts with it...and perhaps loan it out to some goons in exchange for regional beer or something too. Depends on the faults. Generally they stay logged in the memory even if the MIL isn't on but some faults will erase after 5-7 key cycles.
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Dec 22, 2011 00:54
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Toebone posted:The cruise control on my 09 Rabbit has stopped working, anyone know which fuse I should be checking? It won't be a fuse. It'll most likely be a faulty cruise control switch on the steering column.
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Dec 22, 2011 00:57
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timb posted:The coolant in my 2007 GTI is orange. I don't think it's G12, because as far as I can tell that only came in pink and purple. Some of the universal mix coolants are sort of Dex-cool orange but your car should be pink/G12. I doubt it'll cause any problems but a flush and fill isn't a terrible idea.
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Dec 22, 2011 01:00
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timb posted:It's getting continuity. It's literally two metal prongs that complete a circuit inside the expansion tank. Slightly overfill the coolant (just above the "full" line) and drive. Next time the warning light comes on, pull over and check the level. It the level is still well above the min line then loop the sensor plug with a paperclip, cycle the key and see if the light is out. If the warning light is still on then I'd be thinking a wiring problem or a gauge custer issue.
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Dec 22, 2011 01:14
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my1999gsr posted:Some of the universal mix coolants are sort of Dex-cool orange but your car should be pink/G12. I doubt it'll cause any problems but a flush and fill isn't a terrible idea. G12 is a bitch to find, by the way. After hitting Walmart, Target and two auto parts stores I ended up ordering some off of Amazon.
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Dec 22, 2011 06:13
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Snowdens Secret posted:G12 is a bitch to find, by the way. After hitting Walmart, Target and two auto parts stores I ended up ordering some off of Amazon. Word on that. I just get it from my VW dealer (too impatient to wait for it in the mail). By the way, I've had to use Dexcool in my Passat briefly, and nothing exploded, so don't fret too much if you've no other choice. Of course, a door on duct tape instead of hinges "works" too, so flush-and-fill isn't a bad call.
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Dec 22, 2011 08:33
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Advance Auto carries G12 now behind the counter. They also have the power steering fluid that I could only find at the dealer previously.
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Dec 22, 2011 13:03
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Hey guys, I just traded my Beamer  for an Audi allroad. Turns out that my toddler car seat doesn't fit in the 3 series non-existant back seat. Anyways, the allroad is fantastic and spacious. I love it. I just wanted to check and ask what are some good Audi websites with good service instructions and videos and all that. I like to do a lot of my maintenance myself. Also, what's a good place for parts? I need to get a couple body trim parts that the previous owner broke.
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Dec 22, 2011 16:40
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Hey guys, I just traded my Beamer I used http://audizine.com/forum/ when I had one. The technical stuff on the vwvortex is helpful too you just have to avoid the "photoshop my car slammed with these wheels bro" type threads (there are a lot of them).
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Dec 22, 2011 16:43
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I have a 40k mile A4 B7 2.0TFSIq running a Stasis Ultimate exhaust (drones like mad) and matching software for a claimed 272 hp. I seem to have a gear whine in 1,3,5 and 6th gear. There's a clear whine at power and engine braking. There's no sound when clutch in coasting in gear. (I can't seem to hear any whine in 4th gear, I know, it's weird...) Any ideas on the likely cause, I guess the gearbox is tired but the noise pattern is odd. Also, it's perfectly fine, no grinding, syncros are good, shifts are smooth.
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Dec 22, 2011 21:04
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Hey guys, I just traded my Beamer What year allroad and what motor? The airbags are fun to play with and with a vag you can set the offset, so your maximum height can be higher than stock or your maximum height can be lower than stock (you're only changing the offset, so you can't go lower low _and_ higher high). I've had my eyes open for a 4.2 for a while, but they are damned rare.
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Dec 23, 2011 01:33
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Hey guys, I just traded my Beamer Word of warning - my parents have had to do a lot of repairs to the air suspension on theirs, mostly due to the weather here (they don't like -20 C and colder). My dad put in a conventional coil spring and shock kit for about the cost of replacing the air bags, so you may want to consider that if you have issues. You lose the adjustability, but gain much reliability.
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Dec 23, 2011 01:42
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As far as Allroads go, I'd stay as far away from them as possible - the air ride system WILL screw up and no matter what part goes bad it will cost you lots of money. Even better, if one air bag goes bad then guess what? Odds are the other 3 are getting ready to go too. If you're lucky enough for only the air pump to fail, you'll only have to replace one of them but it'll cost you $500 and up for a new one. If you live in an area that never sees snow or salt or if you're a Brit and you can buy newer Allroads than we have in North America then you're in better shape but it's basically an A6 Avant with fender flares and adjustable height suspension that's getting pretty long in the tooth as far as age goes (again, unless you're in Europe where Audi sells newer-body-style Allroads).
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Dec 23, 2011 02:18
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Magyver star Richard Dean Anderson owns one.  
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Dec 23, 2011 04:16
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my1999gsr posted:Some of the universal mix coolants are sort of Dex-cool orange but your car should be pink/G12. I doubt it'll cause any problems but a flush and fill isn't a terrible idea. I was going to do a flush and fill when I did my timing belt next month. Would it be okay to top up with distilled water in the mean time?
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Dec 23, 2011 05:28
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How much are you putting in and how cold do you expect it to get in the next month? If you're just topping off you're probably not changing the concentration too much, and the proper 50/50 or so is good down to like -35F
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Dec 23, 2011 08:48
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Snowdens Secret posted:How much are you putting in and how cold do you expect it to get in the next month? If you're just topping off you're probably not changing the concentration too much, and the proper 50/50 or so is good down to like -35F It's 70f here right now, unseasonably warm. It generally never gets that much below freezing, 20f is the lowest I've seen in years. I'd say it needs maybe a quart or so to get to the min line.
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Dec 23, 2011 15:36
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Timmy Cruise posted:Word of warning - my parents have had to do a lot of repairs to the air suspension on theirs, mostly due to the weather here (they don't like -20 C and colder). My dad put in a conventional coil spring and shock kit for about the cost of replacing the air bags, so you may want to consider that if you have issues. You lose the adjustability, but gain much reliability. It's an 04, 2.7. It only had 60k miles, but it had just had the suspension and turbos replaced on it. The payment is so much lower than my Beamer, so I could easily spend 1000k on it in repairs this year and still come out ahead. One question, though, when it's not running (ignition on, but not started) and I push the service button twice, I get this display: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFGcmdkw52U What is it telling me? It's clear it needs some service, but the manual is ambiguous as to what it means. It has a couple red indicators, but the oil was just changed, and the engine wasn't over heating, so I guess the coolant would have been ok. The tail lights look ok too. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 17:46
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That looks like it's just running through all the displays as a demo or something
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Dec 23, 2011 17:48
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Timmy Cruise posted:Word of warning - my parents have had to do a lot of repairs to the air suspension on theirs, mostly due to the weather here (they don't like -20 C and colder). My dad put in a conventional coil spring and shock kit for about the cost of replacing the air bags, so you may want to consider that if you have issues. You lose the adjustability, but gain much reliability. I'll keep this in mind. I live in the Northeast, so we get a lot of snow, but I don't need to increased height really. Snowdens Secret posted:That looks like it's just running through all the displays as a demo or something That's what I was thinking, but I'm really concerned about my new baby. I'm on roadtrip, and I have to drive another 500 miles, so I'm concerned with driving it with whatever message that is trying to convey.
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Dec 23, 2011 17:48
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Jerk McJerkface posted:That's what I was thinking, but I'm really concerned about my new baby. I'm on roadtrip, and I have to drive another 500 miles, so I'm concerned with driving it with whatever message that is trying to convey. It's just a self check. It shows you all the systems it's checking, then says they are OK!
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Dec 23, 2011 18:43
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meatpimp posted:It's just a self check. It shows you all the systems it's checking, then says they are OK! Ah, makes sense. Thanks!  On an unrelated note I took it offroading today. Cranked the air suspension up to FOUR and drove up to an abandoned gas well. Had an awesome time. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 19:49
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Ah, makes sense. Thanks! Ah, you've got the standard wheels there. Nice choice. The optional ones are a monstrous pain in the rear end to clean, plus they hold snow like that was their intent.
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Dec 24, 2011 02:05
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Just installed a USASpec PA11-VW6 adapter for my iPod in my 2006 A4; went pretty well once I got the hang of using the radio removal keys. To be perfectly honest though...my ears couldn't immediately detect a night and day difference between my old casette adapter and the direct connection, but it was a relatively cheap gadget to install. I'm looking at picking up a ProClip mount for my 4S now, but they're pretty pricey from ProClip; looking for cheaper alternatives/clones right now. I also got an Escort 9500ix, and a DirectWire kit for it...any suggestions on a handy switched 12V line to splice into? Surprised at the amount of devices in the car that will operate without keys in the ignition (cig ports, radio, etc).
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Dec 24, 2011 02:29
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meatpimp posted:Ah, you've got the standard wheels there. Nice choice. The optional ones are a monstrous pain in the rear end to clean, plus they hold snow like that was their intent. Those are just what it came with. The car is a daily driver for my wife, so I'm not terribly concerned with 
Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 24, 2011 |
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Dec 24, 2011 02:49
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movax posted:Just installed a USASpec PA11-VW6 adapter for my iPod in my 2006 A4; went pretty well once I got the hang of using the radio removal keys. To be perfectly honest though...my ears couldn't immediately detect a night and day difference between my old casette adapter and the direct connection, but it was a relatively cheap gadget to install. Buy the ProClip. I've had one for a year in my GTI and let me say, it's a quality built product. The actual cradle is covered in a felt like material so it doesn't scratch the phone. The construction is solid; there's no vibration or movement of the phone at all. I know it's expensive, but you'll thank me later. Their warranty and service is outstanding as well.
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Dec 24, 2011 05:47
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timb posted:Buy the ProClip. I've had one for a year in my GTI and let me say, it's a quality built product. The actual cradle is covered in a felt like material so it doesn't scratch the phone. Hmm, that sways me back towards paying the super-premium for the ProClip (still haven't decided if I want to get the device holder that has the pass-through connector or not). I found this one on Amazon, which seems to be regarded pretty highly as well.
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Dec 24, 2011 06:17
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Those are just what it came with. The car is a daily driver for my wife, so I'm not terribly concerned with No, I was being serious, the optional wheels are a huge pain in the rear end to clean, they are these two-layer things that are terrible to keep clean and seem to always pack snow into the gaps, making them off-balance until the snow melts. See here:
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Dec 24, 2011 09:32
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What a loving ridiculous design that is for a vehicle intended for inclement weather use.  Nobody on the design team even considered snow/mud/poo poo getting stuck in there?
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Dec 24, 2011 14:21
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movax posted:Hmm, that sways me back towards paying the super-premium for the ProClip (still haven't decided if I want to get the device holder that has the pass-through connector or not). I found this one on Amazon, which seems to be regarded pretty highly as well. I have the pass through and love it. Right now I've got a sync and charge cable run through the trim into the glove box, where it plugs into the aux-in and 12v outlet that I wired up. The big advantage to the pass through is it allows you to plug in to anything, and if you have a passenger with an iPod they can simply unplug the cable from the pass through, plug it in to their unit and boom.
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Dec 24, 2011 16:39
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Wamsutta posted:What a loving ridiculous design that is for a vehicle intended for inclement weather use.
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Dec 24, 2011 19:35
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I've had my '12 GTI for a few months now and I've got a question I can't find the answer to in the manual or through extensive googlery, I suspect I won't like the answer: It's cold where I am, I want to start my car and let it warm up for a bit in the morning before climbing in (I never realized until now just how cold leather can get). I have keyless start/entry and after reading around the internet seems to be suggesting that once the car is started it *can* drive away, even if the fob isn't within range, it just won't start next time (obviously). Well that's dumb isn't it? Oh well, I'll just lock the door after I start it... I can't lock the door - not with the key fob, external lock (brushing against the door handle) or pressing the lock button inside before shutting the door. Has anyone else had any experience with this? It just seems insane to me that there's no way for me to secure the car once started - there has to be something I'm missing. I guess I could do it physically with the key and hidden lock but that seems like a lot of messing around for something that shouldn't be an issue.
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Dec 25, 2011 05:09
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Have you tried starting the car with the fob, then getting in without it and driving off? My parents had a Nissan Versa with push button start and it wouldn't let you engage drive unless the fob was within range (RFID I'm guessing). HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Dec 25, 2011 |
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Dec 25, 2011 05:18
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Niven posted:I've had my '12 GTI for a few months now and I've got a question I can't find the answer to in the manual or through extensive googlery, I suspect I won't like the answer: You would probably need to tweak it with VAGCOM as the car is trying to avoid you locking yourself out.
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Dec 25, 2011 17:06
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I've been reading around on TDI club about how diesels apparently don't warm up in the winter quite like gasoline engines do. Should you expect a really cold car if you drive a diesel in the winter? I assume it will take quite a bit of driving before the car is warm enough for the HVAC system to give you warmer air.
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Dec 26, 2011 08:20
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My 98 Jetta TDI takes a long time to warm up, unless you're getting right on the highway. The glow plugs also run for a while after the car starts up to try to help with this. Newer VW TDI's have additional electric heating systems and are supposed to warm up much more quickly.
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Dec 26, 2011 09:18
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The new TDIs have a small aux heater but it isn't enough to warm the car. More for defrost purposes. Other than that, it does take a few miles to warm up the diesels. Idling it really doesn't help like it would for a gasser, you need to be driving it.
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Dec 26, 2011 16:27
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I picked up an 08 A4 2.0T 6 speed quattro a few months back. It was off lease with 37k miles and came with the CPO warranty. About a month after I bought it, a dumbshit in a Tundra hit it while it was parked in a public lot in the city. Ripped half the bumper off and destroyed one of the adaptive headlights. Fast forward two months, three trips to the shop, and I finally have it back in better shape than when I bought it. I took it over to REVO and had the stage 1 tune flashed onto it. They were running a deal so I got the SPS+ for free with it. Everything is going peachy until it starts raining again later in the day and my defroster cannot keep up. I then realized that my A/C doesn't work. I called Chris @ REVO and asked him if there was anything that could cause that and he said no. Is there something at the front driver side part of the car that could have been repaired wrong that would cause the A/C to not work? Car is under warranty and I'm going to set the tune to stock with the SPS+ before i take it back. Just curious if there are other things to look at or consider. Also, I have yet to try, but I was curious if the SPS+ will work with VCDS lite. I searched and found nothing definitive. EDIT for clarity: I have only had the car back from the body shop for about 2 weeks and it has been cold here so I never tried to use the A/C. It is entirely possible that it didn't work from the day I picked it back up. Aflicted fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Dec 26, 2011 |
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Dec 26, 2011 17:00
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Could have damaged the AC compressor during the loss. Could be the shop forgot to hook something back up when the car was in reassembly. I would take it to the shop.
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Dec 26, 2011 17:27
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Aflicted posted:Is there something at the front driver side part of the car that could have been repaired wrong that would cause the A/C to not work? Yes, and it has nothing to do with the tune. The may have missed something broken. The condenser and lots of lines are all across the front. I'm sure the body shop that repaired it will have little problem tracking it down. Unfortunately, that repair isn't done yet.
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Dec 27, 2011 01:26
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