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MotoMind posted:Have you separated RPM-dependent issues from throttle opening? What happens if you've got it at high RPM on a downhill and give it 1/4 throttle? Then it tries to die. I can sit with no load and rev it up quickly, but it will catch a bit at 1/4 throttle. Put a load on it and that small catch at idle kills the engine. I've been working on it all day today, though, and I may have found a temporary solution, or permanent solution based on my reading on Honda messageboards. Apparently, this bike does not take pod filters or "opened up" air filters at all - reports on the internet say that these heavy-puck CV carbs on the Hawk absolutely NEED some vacuum in the intake, to the point where people who screw up and put pods on will then cover the pod with copper or duct tape and poke holes until they get a proper airflow/vacuum balance (which defeats the point of pods, but this is what they do if they've already thrown the airbox away and can't recover it). I was kind of clued into this, as the bike would run much better with choke halfway on, and the plugs, even after idling for awhile, weren't pig-rich-black like you think they would be. I noticed that my friend's bike has the two air filter screens in place, but no air filter element. So what have I done? I took two pieces of craft felt, cut them to shape, and shoved them in there. It's one of those filters where you put a piece of oil-soaked cotton or foam between two mesh screens. I don't have foam or cotton sheets on hand, but I do make masks and have plenty of white craft foam. Voilą, the bike runs absolutely fine now, at least in comparison to what it was before. It's still a bit gutless when pulling away, but that's only in comparison to what the bike should be. In comparison to, say, my 17-25hp Royal Enfield Bullet, it's like a superbike - just much moreso when you get up past 1/4. Completely, absolutely rideable. Well, as rideable as having a 33-year-old, 26,000 mile clutch with about  much friction material left could be.Of course, now that I've said this, I'm going to go finish up assembling the random bits and the bike won't ride worth poo poo, as is how life goes. First thing, I'll put the new friction plates in, see if that makes it better. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 21:51
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 My bars were bent outta shape. Got the Rizoma bar and ends. Feels shorter than stock Ape, but looks cool and blue...so how could I say no? 
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Dec 24, 2011 03:24
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I broke a bolt on my transmission cover and opened it up only to find I need an 18mm socket (I have 17 and 19mm sockets, but not that one) and an impact wrench to remove the nut on the old clutch whose pads are glazed to all hell. Oh and the titanium exhaust I bought was shipped to me without any mounting hardware whatsoever, including the spring-loaded flange. Crap. 
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Dec 25, 2011 10:42
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Out of curiousity, how did you know your clutch was glazed? And howed it get that way?
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Dec 26, 2011 00:14
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Installing the clutch on the aforementioned 1978 CB400TII Hawk for a friend, didn't have the rearmost steel plate lined up just right. Tightened down the four spring bolts, ended up bending the poo poo out of the rear plate and breaking off one of the four spring bolt standoffs. In my defense, the basket itself was warped so much it almost looked like it was running open on a scrambler bike or something, but I should have been more careful. Fixed the basket and got cocky.  And I was feeling so awesome after 30 minutes on a grinding wheel transforming a 15/16" socket into a clutch hub removal tool (because gently caress paying $40 for a tool I'll use once). Tool worked, brain didn't. At least replacement parts are only $35 on eBay.
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Dec 26, 2011 01:27
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Geirskogul posted:And I was feeling so awesome after 30 minutes on a grinding wheel transforming a 15/16" socket into a clutch hub removal tool (because gently caress paying $40 for a tool I'll use once). Tool worked, brain didn't. Actually more liḱe $5 to just buy the correct socket. Got any pictures of the "warped basket"? In my +30 years of loving around with bike engines as a hobby, I've just never seen such a thing happen - even on track engines. This isn't an attempt to mock you or anything, I'm just really curious. Also I totally fail to understand how it's possible to misalign any friction plates in that clutch. Also did you tighten those clutch bolts by guess or measurement? It should be pretty hard to break off one of the clutch bolt consoles while working within specified torque. I'm not sure you did anything wrong, but gently caress, that's a lot of issues for such a simple task. I'd really like pictures to help me understand the problems you faced.
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Dec 26, 2011 02:04
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Ziploc posted:Out of curiousity, how did you know your clutch was glazed? And howed it get that way?
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Dec 26, 2011 02:36
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Sir Cornelius posted:Actually more liḱe $5 to just buy the correct socket. The socket is one of those four-prong "Honda clutch-removal tools" that I can't seem to find anywhere, except for knockoffs on eBay. I didn't take any pictures of the basket, before or after I fixed it, but I can take a pic of it fixed tomorrow when it's light out. Just figures I'd be an idiot and slip things in to get stuck. First off, here's a pic of the socket-type thing I made (it's lovely, but fit excellently)  And here's a pic of the backing plate, and the bent steel disc. The rearmost friction plate got caught up a bit, which means when I tightened down the clutch springs (one on each pole, there), I was pushing the inside of that plate backwards. The bolts that hold the springs down are tightened down all the way, no torque numbers are given by the Honda shop manual or the Clymer manual, but I didn't overdo it or anything - they were easy as pie to tighten down against the springs. The stanchion didn't snap apparently or anything while I was doing everything, because the spring (and three other bolts on the clutch throwout plate) held everything down tight. 
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Dec 26, 2011 03:56
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Sold it! DRZ is no more. I'm about as bad as Z3n with bieks..
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Dec 26, 2011 08:18
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Geirskogul posted:Ok, I think I understand what went wrong by now. A bit of patience and the correct tool is often more than half the job. Jesus gently caress. Good job not cutting off a finger while manufacturing that socket. Must have been a bitch and a half. I bought a set of clutch removal tools some years ago, and I didn't pay more than a few bucks per tool. Looks like they're about $20 each on ebay now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=honda+clutch+removal+tool
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Dec 26, 2011 16:02
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I shuffled them around a bit:   Not really the optimal configuration for the long run, but I plan on doing a lot more bike shuffling in the near future so this should work nicely. I can work around all sides of the 76 GL1000 with plenty of room to spare. The blue 75 GL1000 finally has a non-flat tire on it (swapped just before rearranging) so I can shuffle that around if need be. That CB750F closest to the door is still waiting for me to paint it's motor and tank. The foam floor is an added bonus. I've never used it before. I figured it'd be a total pain in the rear end to park bikes on. But I smartly made a compromise and managed to get it all around the bike so my rear end is not so cold while I work. Edit: My other CB750F is in the shed along with the CB400F. The other 75 GL1000 is still chillin in the driveway next to Joey's 76 CB750 until I get some work done.
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Dec 27, 2011 18:35
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Is that a non-stock wheel on the CB, or is it the picture or what? That tire looks excessively meaty for a CB750.
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Dec 27, 2011 20:16
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Is that a non-stock wheel on the CB, or is it the picture or what? That tire looks excessively meaty for a CB750. Might be the distortion from my wide angle but it's a stock 130
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Dec 27, 2011 20:29
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Might be the distortion from my wide angle but it's a stock 130 Standard tires on a CB750F are 100/90x19 front and 120/90x18 rear. You can easily go 130 rear, but it's not standard, and you'll probably get a better ride on a 120. 130 looks a lot better though.
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Dec 27, 2011 21:49
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Yep that was a typo. I meant 120. Those are 18" Comstars and my 77k has 17" spokes. Edit: drat another typo. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Dec 27, 2011 |
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Dec 27, 2011 22:44
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With a lot of help from my dad (he's a professional at this electrical crap), I fitted the new Stebel Magnum dual horn kit to my bike. They tuck in nicely underneath the tank at the front of the frame. As they sit they're a bit in the way when I need to get at the spark plugs or the head, but they should be fairly easy to remove when needed. And holy hell are they ever an improvement over the wheezy stock horn. I fitted a set to my car as well, the bodywork blocks some of the sound due to the mounting position, but it's still a nice upgrade over the stock horn. Then my uncle came by so we could replace the front stabilizer arm link bars on my parent's car. One of them was worn to the point of being downright scary. All in all, a highly productive day  E: VVVV That's a full-day job, we're doing that today. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Dec 28, 2011 |
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Dec 28, 2011 00:44
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KozmoNaut posted:With a lot of help from my dad. Dads are the best provided that you remember to clean their garage floor afterwards. You did remember to sweep, wash, brush, vacuum and sterilize his garage floor, right?
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Dec 28, 2011 00:57
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Got more parts for my naked conversion. Waiting on a few more before I can get it all done at once. I got the left bar control group from a UK Bandit since I wanted flash-to-pass for the multitude of 4 way stops here. Plugged it in to test, works! Makes me want a right bar control group too now from a UK model. But 65$ is a lot. And I don't actually know how it will function on my bike. If it lets me run the signals all the time for visibility at night then It's worth it. But I can't tell if that's what it does.  My bike is missing the light switch. Because  .
Ziploc fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Dec 28, 2011 |
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Dec 28, 2011 21:18
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Ziploc posted:If it lets me run the signals all the time for visibility at night then It's worth it.
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Dec 29, 2011 01:10
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Snowdens Secret posted:If you mean flash both pairs of turn signals like hazard lights, don't do this. It will only confuse other drivers who think you're turning / breaking down / incompetent. Get hi-viz gear or even those stick-on flashy helmet lights if you really feel you need it. I'm assuming he means it enabled the secondary filament in the turn signals, so you have running lights as well as turn signals.
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Dec 29, 2011 01:26
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Z3n posted:I'm assuming he means it enabled the secondary filament in the turn signals, so you have running lights as well as turn signals. This. My Bandit only has the rear license plate light for rear visibility. And this makes me nervous thinking about riding at night/rain. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Dec 29, 2011 |
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Dec 29, 2011 01:30
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Replaced my stock turn signal relay on my 99 R6 with a flasher relay to put and end to the fast-flash resulting from the PO's install of LEDs, did the victory dance for a few hours, and now scratching my head because the left side seems to be dead and the turn signal indicator is stuck on.
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Dec 29, 2011 05:44
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Ziploc posted:This. My Bandit only has the rear license plate light for rear visibility. And this makes me nervous thinking about riding at night/rain. You should have the rear light visible as well while your headlight is on.
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Dec 29, 2011 10:33
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Ziploc posted:Makes me want a right bar control group too now from a UK model. But 65$ is a lot. And I don't actually know how it will function on my bike. If it lets me run the signals all the time for visibility at night then It's worth it. But I can't tell if that's what it does. I'm pretty sure that it will work. The wiring to make all that stuff happen is in the harness, just jumpered off in versions without the actual switches. Following the wiring diagram around is fun. For the headlights in the CA version, power goes battery -> right bar -> left bar -> fuse block -> front light cluster. Both the left bar and right bar are just jumpers, so any appropriate OEM switch block would probably probably just plug right in and provide whatever functionality is missing. There's also completely unused powered wiring for running lights and fog lights on my '02 1200.
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Dec 29, 2011 13:50
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Ziploc posted:This. My Bandit only has the rear license plate light for rear visibility. And this makes me nervous thinking about riding at night/rain. I'm pretty sure all bikes that have the turn signals normally on for visibility only have them in the front. The rear on all bikes is just tail light and license plate light. From the factory anyway. I think thats a DOT rule. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that's how it is in the US at least.
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Dec 29, 2011 15:28
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I'm pretty sure all bikes that have the turn signals normally on for visibility only have them in the front. The rear on all bikes is just tail light and license plate light. From the factory anyway. I think thats a DOT rule. I don't think I've ever seen anything with it's indicators on before, though I'm in Oz. I took flash-to-pass as meaning flash the high beams, that's what the pass switch on my GSXR does.
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Dec 29, 2011 15:42
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I don't think I've ever seen anything with it's indicators on before, though I'm in Oz. I took flash-to-pass as meaning flash the high beams, that's what the pass switch on my GSXR does. In the US some bikes have the indicators on all the time, and using the turn signal just intermittently turns one of them off. Not all though, leading me to believe that the bikes that have it are also offered in a country that requires it, and they just didn't change the wiring for the US. Flash to pass is the same here, just flashes the high beams, my GSXR had the same thing.
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Dec 29, 2011 15:49
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:For the headlights in the CA version, power goes battery -> right bar -> left bar -> fuse block -> front light cluster. Both the left bar and right bar are just jumpers, so any appropriate OEM switch block would probably probably just plug right in and provide whatever functionality is missing. What do the three positions do to the lights exactly? I just double checked, and all that lights up for my Bandit S (Not S for long mind you) is just the headlight, and the rear license light. Flipping to highbeam doesn't change anything. In other news, I got my 7inch headlight! It's from a Vetter got it nice and cheap. Looks to be in solid shape too. And for 30$, it even game with a working headlight.
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Dec 29, 2011 16:00
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Ziploc posted:In other news, I got my 7inch headlight! It's from a Vetter got it nice and cheap. Looks to be in solid shape too. And for 30$, it even game with a working headlight. I had to google Vetter to realise he's the guy that made the windjammer fairings. However that led me to this bike mileage competition http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/2011-Streamliner/2011-vetter-streamliner-p50.html which was won by this guy http://hayes-dt.com/index.html and briefly raised my hopes of finally being able to buy a diesel thumper engine. but sadly they're still not available. In that competition the standard diesel (95.3mpg) beat some of the streamliners despite having typical lovely motorcycle aerodynamics and of course the diesel streamliner hammered everyone else.
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Dec 29, 2011 17:27
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Olde Weird Tip posted:In the US some bikes have the indicators on all the time, and using the turn signal just intermittently turns one of them off. Not all though, leading me to believe that the bikes that have it are also offered in a country that requires it, and they just didn't change the wiring for the US. Harleys all seem to come with the front turn signals as always-on conspicuity lights - but only the front. Then they blink on/off to indicate. Did anyone (in the US) have a bike come with red rear turn signals? I'm 95% sure it's illegal to have always-on rear-facing lights that aren't red, so if all bikes are coming with amber turn signals in the rear (maybe another DOT req?) then of course they couldn't be on in the back. I've looked into this a little since I've been eyeing a SignalMinder, which would require me to swap to red bulbs for my rear signals (and LED, since my bike doesn't generate enough to run 4 incandescents).
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Dec 29, 2011 18:10
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Did anyone (in the US) have a bike come with red rear turn signals? I'm 95% sure it's illegal to have always-on rear-facing lights that aren't red, so if all bikes are coming with amber turn signals in the rear (maybe another DOT req?) then of course they couldn't be on in the back. Older bikes run red turn signals. They switched to orange some time in the mid 70's. My 72 RV90 has red turn signals, but my 75 F11 has orange. It was a rule change by the DOT. If you're seeing bikes newer than that with red signals, chances are someone changed them out
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Dec 29, 2011 18:39
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I swapped out the bearings in my buddy's CB750 finally. http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2011/12/joeys-k3-gets-new-front-wheel-bearings.html  The hard part (getting the bearing retainer out) was done here: http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2011/11/time-for-new-shoes-joeys-k3-needs-to.html 
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Dec 29, 2011 |
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Dec 29, 2011 21:56
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TheScott2K posted:Replaced my stock turn signal relay on my 99 R6 with a flasher relay to put and end to the fast-flash resulting from the PO's install of LEDs, did the victory dance for a few hours, and now scratching my head because the left side seems to be dead and the turn signal indicator is stuck on. Swapped the front signal out for a new $3 replacement POS from Cycle Gear and it worked! So it turns out I just friend the front left signal. I know you guys were on the edge of your seats. Sooo now I'm in the market for new flush-mount turn signals for a 99 R6. Anyone know if turn signal mirrors do the job for state inspection purposes?
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Dec 29, 2011 22:39
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I rode it...on December 29th...in Iowa. This weather is amazing. Almost 50 degrees today.
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Dec 29, 2011 22:48
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Scrapez posted:I rode it...on December 29th...in Iowa. This weather is amazing. Almost 50 degrees today.  Weather is freakin amazing compared to our normal shittastic winters. Unbelievably good. It was a little brisk this morning but not bad at all. My lunch break consisted of tearing around town doing wheelies... 55 degrees? In Iowa? On Dec 29? gently caress YES.
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Dec 29, 2011 22:55
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Perfect weather in Dallas too. Rode to work today and will be riding tonight as well. What I did to the ride today? Lubed chain and topped off fluids.
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Dec 30, 2011 00:13
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Pulled into my garage in my car and looked at the bike today Thought about the other bikes sitting in storage Theres salt on the ground, so even though its warm enough to ride, I still cant (wont)
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Dec 30, 2011 00:44
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Ziploc posted:What do the three positions do to the lights exactly? The three-position switch appears to be "off lo hi" in case you want to turn the headlights off entirely. Obviously not a US option.
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Dec 30, 2011 01:16
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Sir Cornelius posted:Jesus gently caress. Good job not cutting off a finger while manufacturing that socket. Must have been a bitch and a half. I made the same tool back around October. 15 minutes with a Dremel was all it took. Seriously, it was no big deal. I changed the spark plugs in my WRX today. My next project is to find and murder the loving cat that keeps peeing on the headers and wheels of the R100GS. Oh just for the record- http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/3783.html has the exact dimensions of the Honda clutch tool: quote:Center Lock nut to remove clutch center: AnnoyBot fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Dec 30, 2011 |
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Dec 30, 2011 07:13
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The three-position switch appears to be "off lo hi" in case you want to turn the headlights off entirely. Obviously not a US option. The three positions are Off, Parking (tail light, and side front lights if you have them), and On (+headlight). A fair amount of new motorcycles, especially the scooters, dirt bikes, and also generally cheaper/knockoff ones will have this switch present, but disabled, with a wiring harness jumper that turns the headlight on no matter what the switch position. You can remove this jumper, and usually the switch will function as normal again. The dealership I bought my Enfield from tells me that they'll remove it (or, for legal reasons, "accidentally" forget to install it after maintenance) for people who ask. It is convenient to have a switch that turns the headlight off if you're using the e-start on a weak battery. Also lets you charge the battery at idle on bikes that otherwise aren't capable, because the headlight isn't drawing 65 of your available 80 watts or whatever. The idle/charge thing is why I enabled my switch, so I could start the bike and let it warm up without the ammeter needle hovering over the discharge half. I have a friend with a Ninja 250 that bought new switch clusters off of eBay after an accident, and the new one had the jumper packed into the box with instructions to install it in-line with the switch cluster cabling. He just left it out. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Dec 30, 2011 |
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Dec 30, 2011 07:24
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