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Seat Safety Switch posted:No, I have UK17s which are 17x7 (the OEM wheels are also 17x7 but they're relegated to winter tire duty thanks to the previous owner, Curby McCurbenstein of the Los Angeles Curbs). I had neglected to think of the wheel as a contributor to the rubbing. I think 08-10 is 17x7, and then the 2011 got 17x8s. Alignment also is pretty important. I have tons and tons of room with 225s because there's -2.5 degrees of front camber, -1.something in the rear, and +55 offset. The tires are VERY close to the struts though, so I don't think the 2011 wheels would even fit without a thin spacer. I don't think it would take too much work to go to a 245.
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Dec 23, 2011 21:59
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jamal posted:Alignment also is pretty important. I have tons and tons of room with 225s because there's -2.5 degrees of front camber, -1.something in the rear, and +55 offset. The tires are VERY close to the struts though, so I don't think the 2011 wheels would even fit without a thin spacer. I don't think it would take too much work to go to a 245. Don't know if this is true for newer imprezas. Also, remember that some 225/45/17s are wider than some 235/45/17s because tire manufacturers are cheating bastards. I think the common logic is that all 225/17s will fit, but wider, it depends on the tire. For the GRM article: The Re-01Rs are a touch narrower than the star specs because they have pretty squared off shoulders which allows them a contact patch. nm fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Dec 24, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 22:16
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Hey guys. Nice feedback on the timing bit. I'm not tuning on a dyno... nor am I ready to tune the timing! I want to work with a base map that doesn't throw knock so I can dial in my boost, then tune timing. Right now (after some driving) I'm seeing -4.22 FBKC plus 3.xx FLKC on top of some IAM (14-15) that's happening only over 6k. I've tried adding timing, pulling timing.... still says it knocks. Before I was just seeing 1-4* of FBKC every time I reflashed once I got high up in the revs. I have a sense that it's false knock, but nothing is rattling around in the engine bay and my AFRs are at 10.0-10.2 (wideband verified) for now while I dial the boost in. The zero WGDC issue is that the boost creeps over 6krpm. I assumed it's possible that it was just due to the nature of the internal wastegate, I'm not that worried about it. I'm also still dealing with this mystery high RPM clutch softness. I changed the slave cylinder today and bled the system and it still goes soft at over 5500rpm. You can just hold it there and feel the pedal go soft.  This stupid car needs to start getting better.
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Dec 24, 2011 04:28
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boost creep at wastegate boost is pretty expected. up top the airflow is such that the IWG can't maintain 8psi. run more than 12psi and it won't do that. Tuning is the one thing that I haven't been very interested in learning and I leave to the experts. phatbotti/mikey sti is in your area, right? I'd call him.
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Dec 24, 2011 10:40
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Blaise posted:
The fact that you're getting FKLC at wide open throttle is very weird. Check out your IAT compensation tables! That might be the cause of your problem if you only have this issue after a few pulls. If your computer is pulling too much timing or using WGDC to lower boost due to temperature changes, that could explain why you can't predictably tune out your knock. I don't think that is your main though problem, and I would suggest that this: quote:The zero WGDC issue is that the boost creeps over 6krpm. I assumed it's possible that it was just due to the nature of the internal wastegate, I'm not that worried about it. Might be. If you're having uncontrollable boost pressure in the same RPM range as your knock problem, I think it's a possibility that your corrections to timing will have inconsistent results. I think you should try to get your creep issue under control. The reason you're probably creeping is that you aren't in the range your turbo wants to operate at. I know next to nothing about the VF30 and where its efficiency range is, but I'm sure there are folks on the rom raider/cobb forums that have such information, and you should take a look at it (especially if your boost is basically creeping from 8 psi to 12 psi - it should peak and then taper, not steadily grow by almost 50%). Get a reasonable target (14 psi?) and get rid of your creep as much as you can, either mechanically (change the spring, adjust the actuator tension) or electronically (using wastegate duty cycle) - preferably both. Then work on playing with timing to zero out your knock completely. If you're running so rich, you should be able to safely get to your target while pulling some timing to avoid any severe knock. The fact that you only have knock above 6k rpm says to me you should be able to do this safely. Also, like Jamal said, contact a friendly open source tuner - they'll let you see the changes they make to your maps as they do the tune if you ask nicely, and will even explain why they're doing what they're doing. Even better if you can talk to them in person and get the car on a dyno. And paying the $200 it costs for a tune from them is far cheaper than replacing another engine. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Dec 24, 2011 |
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Dec 24, 2011 10:53
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdZsxFEcR-o I kinda like this new ad for the XV. Mostly because I get to see a Brat, 360 and 22B all in one place.
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Dec 24, 2011 20:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdZsxFEcR-o It's a very cool ad, but it's so disappointing when you see their rally cars and all the old STi models drive in, and out comes...a crossover?
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Dec 24, 2011 21:08
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But it's the best thing they've ever done.  I'd probably like the XV way more if not for the wheels. What were they thinking?
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Dec 24, 2011 21:15
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BobTheFerret posted:It's a very cool ad, but it's so disappointing when you see their rally cars and all the old STi models drive in, and out comes...a crossover? It makes no sense, the Outback is already the size of a crossover at this point. What is the purpose of this, just Subaru a Subaru me-too? It's like they made this ad to purposefully say "Remember all those great purpose-built cars we used to make? We've combined them all to make a car with absolutely no purpose. Incredible, isn't it?"
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Dec 24, 2011 22:03
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law abiding rapist posted:It makes no sense, the Outback is already the size of a crossover at this point. What is the purpose of this, just Subaru a Subaru me-too? It's just a rebranding of the Outback Sport. No more, no less.
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Dec 24, 2011 22:04
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So, it's only 4 inches shorter (both height and length) than the Forester, it'll have less power (2.0 instead of 2.5), yet it will cost more. Maybe I'm completely missing the point, but who is this supposed to appeal to? People who want a Forester but are scared of the Lesbian stigma? It seems like a pretty big departure from the older OBS to me. Source: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2013-subaru-xv-crosstrek-first-drive-review Apologies if this was discussed previously in the thread. I fell behind on the thread, so recently skipped past ~15 pages worth of posts.
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Dec 25, 2011 00:10
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syphon posted:Source: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2013-subaru-xv-crosstrek-first-drive-review Dear God, it's just a lifted impreza, and is as expensive as a Forester? Dealers are absolutely retarded - the Subaru-buying crowd already has 2 other far more capable vehicles. If they brought over the 2L diesel they talk about (250 lb/ft at 1600 RPM is delightful. I'd love to see what that engine can do with some TLC), MAYBE there would be people interested in the damned thing. As is though, there is literally no reason to buy this car over a Forester (if you just want cargo space) or Outback (if you want off-road capability), or a Tribeca (if you want a people-carrier). There's no niche for the car! Every dealer must be thinking "A 4" taller impreza? Ooo it's a crossover, America LOVES small SUV's now!" gently caress that. Use that extra height to make space for batteries to make a hybrid or some poo poo, the environmentalist segment that Subaru caters to would eat it up. I can't wait to watch this thing's sales crash and burn as people test drive it and realize that it's just a tall Impreza with worse gas mileage, a smaller engine, the same amount of cargo space, and poorer handling. It's like they made a great ad to make up for the fact that it's such a mediocre, unexciting new product. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Dec 25, 2011 |
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Dec 25, 2011 03:13
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As bull3964 suggests, the XV is a (pricey) trim package for the Impreza capitalizing on the Outback name. They'll sell every one they make and it'll gain a cult following in 10 years as there won't be any AMC Eagles on Cragislist anymore.
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Dec 25, 2011 05:45
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Is there a beefier alternative to the super soft rubber hoses Subaru likes to use for the BPV and whatnot? I think mine might have some hairline cuts in them that open under boost. Also, is there a good place to buy squeeze clamps or t-bolt clamps online? Zip ties are kind of ghetto.
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Dec 27, 2011 02:31
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blargle posted:Is there a beefier alternative to the super soft rubber hoses Subaru likes to use for the BPV and whatnot? I think mine might have some hairline cuts in them that open under boost. Also, is there a good place to buy squeeze clamps or t-bolt clamps online? Zip ties are kind of ghetto. Silicone replacements for the intercooler hoses/other hoses might be a good idea (very temperature resistant, extremely durable compared to rubber). They're not cheap, but I imagine if you replace them yourself (not too hard for some hoses) they would be cost effective, and will save you some grief (way less likely to crack leak). Mishimoto set: http://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx-sti-silicone-ancillary-hoses-04-07.html I've been reading the samco hoses have no instructions and don't seem to fit very well, which is too bad, since their inlet is pretty nice. If anyone knows if these will fit the 08+ models, I'm curious, since I'm looking to replace a few of the rubber hoses that could potentially cause problems as they age. Was also thinking of switching to a more durable alternative for my vacuum lines - Braided stainless? They'd sure as hell never pop off with the right fitting 
BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Dec 27, 2011 |
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Dec 27, 2011 09:37
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BobTheFerret posted:Dear God, it's just a lifted impreza, and is as expensive as a Forester? Dealers are absolutely retarded - the Subaru-buying crowd already has 2 other far more capable vehicles. If they brought over the 2L diesel they talk about (250 lb/ft at 1600 RPM is delightful. I'd love to see what that engine can do with some TLC), MAYBE there would be people interested in the damned thing. Err dude, this is exactly what they did with the Subaru Outback, they lifted a Legacy and it sold well for how long? I'm sure it'll do the same thing.
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Dec 27, 2011 11:29
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kaws! posted:Err dude, this is exactly what they did with the Subaru Outback, they lifted a Legacy and it sold well for how long? I'm sure it'll do the same thing. I'd actually say not quite right - the Outback is more than just a lifted Liberty. Plus the Outback pretty much was the first genuine crossover when it first appeared - you could get dual range in the Outback, that never appeared in the Liberty for instance and quite a capable machine off road, more than what a simple lifted Liberty would be. The problem for the XV is that it is clearly actually IS just a lifted Impreza - and also who the gently caress looks at a Impreza and thinks it would be good to lift one of those when right next to it is arguably the best smaller crossover of the last decade that has been the sales leader for Subaru for that entire time, based on the Impreza platform? I cant work out what Subaru are thinking of with this one.
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Dec 27, 2011 11:54
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The XV will sell, just not for any good reason. Think of the people who see commercials with the words "active lifestyle" and go "Ahhh." It's for them. You know, idiots. People who think Brand Power really is helping them buy better.
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Dec 27, 2011 15:30
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Cat Terrist posted:I'd actually say not quite right - the Outback is more than just a lifted Liberty. Plus the Outback pretty much was the first genuine crossover when it first appeared - you could get dual range in the Outback, that never appeared in the Liberty for instance and quite a capable machine off road, more than what a simple lifted Liberty would be. That said, subaru has made the Outback sport for years here, which is just a lifted impreza (lift amount has varied, some of the older ones were higher than the new ones -- old 2.2s are semi popular for ice racers and rallyxs because they cost like 12 bucks). It has sold enough that they keep it going, but it is no outback. I suspect that this is just going to replace the OB sport, and subaru hopes this will sell better. It does look slightly less ridiculous than the current OB sport.
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Dec 27, 2011 18:43
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I really like my Outback Sport - huge ground clearance and the 2.2 is ridiculously tough. The Australians got them too, and they had dual range. Japan got a turbo version called the Gravel Express. The Outback has some stuff over the same Legacy in the US as well too (dual sunroofs, different interior options, revised struts in addition to the taller springs) but they're fairly similar. Some people probably don't want to buy a Forester because it looks like an SUV; the XV will probably appeal to those people. How many of those people exist who aren't already buying Outbacks? I can't imagine it's that many.
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Dec 27, 2011 20:48
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I am in the middle of my clutch removal. (literally, just inside double checking that I dont need to press out my flywheel) There is far more pry barring required than I imagined. Also my clutch disc and flywheel look a lot better than I thought they would which is mildly disconcerting. This would have been so much easier if I wasnt on my back in my garage doing this, if you can rent a bay or find someone cheap to do it you definitely should.
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Dec 27, 2011 21:39
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I know somebody who will be excited to see the photos of Subaru restoring this 1986 XT Turbo.
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Dec 28, 2011 02:08
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Who was it here that knew someone or had a friend at Boston Motorsports? Just ordered a Cobb downpipe and uppipe from them. Good service A+ would buy from again.
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Dec 28, 2011 02:26
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I order most of my stuff from them via private message on forums, their "secret" pricing is great.
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Dec 28, 2011 02:37
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Yeah they're pretty great. Can't complain about getting a Cobb downpipe + turbo to downpipe gasket for $550 shipped. Speaking of Cobb and prices, why the gently caress does an Accessport cost so much? They charge more for a Chinese piece of plastic than a big metal downpipe. Trying to find a v1 for ~$200 but dealing with NASIOC kids makes me want to die. I'm going to flash my car then throw the drat thing in my closet -- maybe dust it off and get a protune this summer then throw it in my closet again. C'mon Cobb.
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Dec 28, 2011 02:42
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Don't bother with a v1. I got rid of mine because it took a goddamn decade for it to flash the car. Get a tactrix and go romraider maybe?
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Dec 28, 2011 02:54
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kylej posted:Yeah they're pretty great. Can't complain about getting a Cobb downpipe + turbo to downpipe gasket for $550 shipped.
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Dec 28, 2011 03:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I know somebody who will be excited to see the photos of Subaru restoring this 1986 XT Turbo. Awesome!
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Dec 28, 2011 03:52
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kylej posted:Speaking of Cobb and prices, why the gently caress does an Accessport cost so much? They charge more for a Chinese piece of plastic than a big metal downpipe. Trying to find a v1 for ~$200 but dealing with NASIOC kids makes me want to die. I'm going to flash my car then throw the drat thing in my closet -- maybe dust it off and get a protune this summer then throw it in my closet again. C'mon Cobb. Some advice here, I bought the Accessport V2, flashed my car, and never used it again. A year later I was able to get a much better custom tune from a well respected tuner here in NJ (John @ Akuma Motorsports) for half the price of the AP. Find yourself a tuner that you trust and go that route. Save your money.
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Dec 28, 2011 04:01
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Just get an open source tuner or if you have a year that supports it a VAG com cable. Theres no reason why tuning your Subaru should cost more than $150 unless youre getting a dyno tune.
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Dec 28, 2011 04:41
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nm posted:You're paying for the software (and its development), not the device. The software and that device let you do so many things that a normal OBDII reader would never let you. It's an attractive interface, a very high refresh rate, in addition to software that will let you do things like ECU resets and reflashes on the fly, or record logs of 10+ variables. I can't count how many times I've logged or reset/reflashed my ECU or read a code with it. As well, you now have access to their professional map editing software (which is fully functional and free, other than the ability to make a locked map), which is very cool if you're interested in that sort of thing. There are also a lot of very good AP tuners out there who do great work. I use a cell phone mount and have it double as a universal gauge - access to A/F learning data makes it very easy to check for post-MAF leaks, can monitor knock, boost, intake temp, etc. Very useful for keeping an eye on your car's health. Just wait until you get a sale to buy one - you can pay less than $500 if you get a 10% off coupon and combine it with a sale, and in some cases there will be events that throw in things like a boost gauge too. Or just buy used, and save 200-300 on it. It's worth the money in my opinion. Otherwise, just go with a tactrix cable and a laptop - open source is a great way to save money (the only crappy part is the inability to reflash or reset your ECU on the fly, and I think you need a laptop in the car if you want to log with it. Just set up a carputer and you're golden though). Bottom line is, though, don't waste your money on a version 1! They're useless now BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Dec 28, 2011 |
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Dec 28, 2011 05:37
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Can someone remind me of the alignment settings I should ask for if I'm getting one done? I'm having the rack replaced and if I have to do an alignment I'd just as soon get a little better than stock. For reference - 2001 Legacy GT Ltd.
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Dec 28, 2011 21:07
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Two questions: 1) What's the best way to hunt down a boost leak or vacuum leak? 2) How big of a press is needed to change out suspension bushings? For the DIY'er what's the best way to do this? Pull one corner at a time and take them to the local shop to be pressed out?
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Dec 28, 2011 21:17
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My 2003 WRX with 99,000 or so miles just started exhibing what almost certainly seems like idler pulley whine. I would normally take this in to be fixed immediately, but I'm currently in the middle of a road trip which has about 500-600 more miles to go before I'm home. Is this something I need to fix immediately and grab a rental car, or can I safely finish the trip in the WRX?
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Dec 29, 2011 04:57
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http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/servlet/the-HOW-TO-TEST-A-SUBARU/Categories This is to test an STI, I've built a tester but haven't figured out which hoses to cap on the newer WRX yet. I am the most paranoid person about boost leaks there is.
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Dec 29, 2011 05:12
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mlmp08 posted:My 2003 WRX with 99,000 or so miles just started exhibing what almost certainly seems like idler pulley whine. I would normally take this in to be fixed immediately, but I'm currently in the middle of a road trip which has about 500-600 more miles to go before I'm home. Is this something I need to fix immediately and grab a rental car, or can I safely finish the trip in the WRX? Should be fine.
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Dec 29, 2011 05:23
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BobTheFerret posted:The fact that you're getting FKLC at wide open throttle is very weird. Check out your IAT compensation tables! That might be the cause of your problem if you only have this issue after a few pulls. If your computer is pulling too much timing or using WGDC to lower boost due to temperature changes, that could explain why you can't predictably tune out your knock. I don't think that is your main though problem, and I would suggest that this: The creep is okay. I can adjust the boost to something a little higher (14 tapering to 12, for example), and still see knock over 5krpm. No matter what, I'm seeing knock over 5krpm in some form. Whether it's FLKC, FKBC, you name it, it's not clean, and the pulls are -4.22 or more. Tried adjusting up, down, you name, it's says it's knocking. Very frustrating.
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Dec 29, 2011 06:33
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Two questions: I did my lateral links with a bench vice and a socket set. Home made ghetto press. Trailing arms a similar fashion.
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Dec 29, 2011 12:36
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I just test-drove a 2012 Outback 2.5i with the 6-speed transmission. It scratches my practical car itch and, upon further inspection, would be capable of going just about everywhere I've gone with my Jeep Wrangler (probably not over logs or through deep water though). The power didn't thrill me, but I have a motorcycle for that (which the Outback can tow). Still, in about five years, could I do a WRX motor swap? I'm trying to read around and pick out the major players on the after-market (both go-fast and go-anywhere parts). Any recommendations? Also, what is the general opinion: are the people who lift their Outbacks and install bigger tires rednecks, or perfectly reasonable human beings? Also, am I foolish for taking an Outback over a WRX sedan? The boy racer in me is saying yes, but the guy who drives a practical car sedately and is sick of not being able to lock things up in a Wrangler says that the Outback is perfect.
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Dec 30, 2011 06:10
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Safety Dance posted:I just test-drove a 2012 Outback 2.5i with the 6-speed transmission. It scratches my practical car itch and, upon further inspection, would be capable of going just about everywhere I've gone with my Jeep Wrangler (probably not over logs or through deep water though). How about a Forester XT instead? If you want the ground clearance but still want something capable of anything resembling spirited driving.
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Dec 30, 2011 06:19
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