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Amandyke posted:How about a Forester XT instead? If you want the ground clearance but still want something capable of anything resembling spirited driving. I don't know. I don't think it looks goofy enough for me. It lacks a certain something. Also, is there a good resource for learning technical things about the car?
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Dec 30, 2011 06:40
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Well, here's a picture of a friends Forester with STI struts/springs (I think?) It's a little low, but maybe it will change your mind! 
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Dec 30, 2011 07:07
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nutnmunch posted:Well, here's a picture of a friends Forester with STI struts/springs (I think?) I need some Deus Ex colored wheels for my 02 Black bugeyes. The gold wheels look great.
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Dec 30, 2011 07:08
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Blaise posted:The creep is okay. I can adjust the boost to something a little higher (14 tapering to 12, for example), and still see knock over 5krpm. No matter what, I'm seeing knock over 5krpm in some form. Whether it's FLKC, FKBC, you name it, it's not clean, and the pulls are -4.22 or more. Tried adjusting up, down, you name, it's says it's knocking. The reason I said seeing any FKLC at WOT (especially at high RPM) is so strange, is that FKLC should NOT be the knock control method used by the ECU at WOT! You shouldn't see FKLC at all if your foot is flat to the floor - knock correction under those conditions should solely be in the realm of feedback/FBKC and DAM. You must have some setting out of whack where your car is never adding the FKLC timing pulled back in in that particular load/rpm cell. Check your FLKC and FBKC delays. The other problem is that you are always seeing the Fine learning knock correction because you are stuck in IAM correction mode, so the timing advance corrections in FKLC you see above 5000 RPM are not necessarily due to knock every time at that RPM/load cell, but rather because you're just seeing knock all over the place and your car doesn't know what to do with it (or consistently severe knock). If you pull more than 4 degrees of timing in Fine Correction Learning mode, you automatically default to IAM as the knock prevention method. As a consequence, you will not see the ECU get rid of that particular correction. Until IAM is at 16, you will not exit IAM knock control, and your FKLC tables will not change. Basically, if you can't get out of IAM control (you can't get all the way to 16), there is something seriously wrong with the car, the ECU (your tune's core values - things like MAF scaling, injector compensation, or any other major value that affects everything downstream), or the sensors reporting to the ECU. If you haven't already, you should really read the subie newbie guide to tuning (which has copious info that will help you in troubleshooting problems like this - it's what I am using to try to figure out your problem). Link to the nasioc thread. . BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Dec 30, 2011 |
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Dec 30, 2011 09:29
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Anyone know where I can get a set of springs for a 88 GL? Ive been trying to research this poo poo and all I've gotten is that some unknown year/trim Ford Tempo springs might fit the front, and some Honda Accord front springs might fit the rear, though it might change the height. Any of you guys know who sells an actual loving GL spring?
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Dec 30, 2011 12:38
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Sooo, before I start doing big money things to my Legacy, I need to track down this goofy electrical thing that's going on. I'm pretty good with the mechanical stuff, but I have no clue about the mysteries of electricity. Is there something I can use to try and track down a short or a ground fault or something screwy like that? I replaced the alternator about a year ago after my wife's phone got fried in the charger, and while nothing like that has happened again, it's still being screwy and knocking lights out on the dash and little things like that. Also, my wife is inheriting my mom's 08 Outback. It's got roughly 100k on it, and I know my dad hasn't done anything besides changing the oil and changing the tires out. Should I do anything besides brake pads, plugs, air filter and probably the timing belt?
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Dec 30, 2011 14:48
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Random question on my 04 WRX wagon. As far as I can tell the cruise control is crap. When set on flat road it lets the car drop 3-4 mph before engaging and resuming the set speed. When on cruise on hilly areas it will let the car slow down 3-4 mph after hitting the bottom of the hill before resuming speed on the climb. My 225K mile Tacoma still keeps it within .5 at all times for comparison as does my brothers 06 Outback sport. Is this a normal Subaru thing, or should I get it checked out?
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Dec 30, 2011 15:21
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Random question on my 04 WRX wagon. As far as I can tell the cruise control is crap. When set on flat road it lets the car drop 3-4 mph before engaging and resuming the set speed. When on cruise on hilly areas it will let the car slow down 3-4 mph after hitting the bottom of the hill before resuming speed on the climb. My 225K mile Tacoma still keeps it within .5 at all times for comparison as does my brothers 06 Outback sport. Is this a normal Subaru thing, or should I get it checked out? My 03 Legacy does the same thing. And the 99 I had before that did too. It's pretty annoying. I always attributed it to the really awful AT on the things, though. It might be a Subie thing.
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Dec 30, 2011 15:34
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That's weird, none of my Subarus from 2002-2011 have ever done that with cruise control, but they've all been MT cars.
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Dec 30, 2011 15:34
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Both mine and my brothers are MT
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Dec 30, 2011 15:41
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Random question on my 04 WRX wagon. As far as I can tell the cruise control is crap. When set on flat road it lets the car drop 3-4 mph before engaging and resuming the set speed. When on cruise on hilly areas it will let the car slow down 3-4 mph after hitting the bottom of the hill before resuming speed on the climb. My 225K mile Tacoma still keeps it within .5 at all times for comparison as does my brothers 06 Outback sport. Is this a normal Subaru thing, or should I get it checked out? That doesn't sound right to me, though. Might be worth checking out, but I imagine it could be an expensive diagnosis unless you have a better idea what's malfunctioning.
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Dec 30, 2011 17:23
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The Jabberwocky posted:My 03 Legacy does the same thing. And the 99 I had before that did too. It's pretty annoying. I always attributed it to the really awful AT on the things, though. It might be a Subie thing. My 03 wrx does the same thing. I wouldn't worry about it so long as it maintains the speed you set and isn't just slowing down.
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Dec 30, 2011 20:20
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Safety Dance posted:I just test-drove a 2012 Outback 2.5i with the 6-speed transmission. It scratches my practical car itch and, upon further inspection, would be capable of going just about everywhere I've gone with my Jeep Wrangler (probably not over logs or through deep water though). My AVO top mount got here today. Seems really well made, and it's heavy as hell. Think I'm in love.
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Dec 30, 2011 23:52
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Bud Manstrong posted:Have you considered an Outback Sport? They go just about anywhere an Outback will - they're just lifted Imprezas - they look a lot better than the Outback, better gas mileage and they're still really practical. It'll probably still tow your bike too. Actually, a 2.5 cvt outback has better fuel economy than an 2.5 outback sport.
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Dec 31, 2011 00:48
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What would you guys do about this? I got this transmission, driveshaft, and rear end for $150. With this little caveat... How the gently caress do I get those off? Both sides look like that with the broken off punch jammed nice and tight in the hole. I've been totally unsuccessful hammering either way. They actually totally gave up getting the axles off and used a torch to cut the axle shafts in half... But now I'm in the situation where I potentially need to use this transmission, so something has to be done.
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Dec 31, 2011 20:09
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I thought there was a tiny pin you had to unbend and get out, and then punch that pin out. At least, that's how the front axles worked on my 2000 Outback.
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Dec 31, 2011 20:13
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Heat maybe?
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Dec 31, 2011 20:14
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it's just a spring pin you hammer out. if the other cv is off, you could split the trans case and undo the circlip that holds the stub into the diff. it's not actually that hard to take the 5-speed apart and put it back together.
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Dec 31, 2011 20:18
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another day of loving around with my evil bitch of a GL. I finally got around to running engine codes ( all the instructions I found online were incorrect) and turns out my shits all lovely. I need a throttle sensor, temp sensor, IACV, EGR solenoid, neutral and idle sensors, uhhh.... some other poo poo I probably forgot. It's not a pleased piece of engineering. I ordered all the poo poo but the throttle sensor cause it's really expensive and hopefully next weekend I'll have that bad bitch running pretty good. After engine is happy then I get to do all wheel bearings, brakes, replace all the rubber in the suspension.... well, replace all the suspension.... some trim work needs to be replaced, have the seats all rebuilt- new ceiling line, door panels, most of the print on the AC/heat controls are worn off, so I need a new one of those - new radio. It's a project alright.
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Dec 31, 2011 21:00
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You can try to clean the TPS, worked on mine. You don't need the EGR to work properly for the car to run right. As long as the valve is closed. Again with the IACV, take it off and give it a good cleaning. Mine was all gummed up, then I cleaned it, now it's fine.... My GL has about 8 codes in the computer. EGR, EVAP crap, VSS, you name it. It runs great and gets over 30mpg on the highway. Back to my stupid EJ 5speed. I can't get the axle off either side of the transmission. It's a male stub transmission, so female axles. I don't think heat is a good idea unless I want to replace the seals. I don't want to replace the seals. What would taking apart the transmission accomplish?
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Dec 31, 2011 21:46
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well, if you could get one of the axles out, you could take the case apart and remove the stub from inside the front differential. It looks like you're going to have to get those pins out one way or the other.
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Dec 31, 2011 21:56
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would it be a bad idea to use a cutoff wheel and try to cut the axles apart? Or will I just gently caress up the stubs...
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Dec 31, 2011 22:28
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PadreScout posted:another day of loving around with my evil bitch of a GL. Definitely replace the CTS connector and a few inches of wiring. Corrosion on this connector and inside wire causes a myriad of engine management issues. It's a standard Bosch 2-wire fuel injector connector. Example: http://www.amazon.com/1985-95-Corvette-Fuel-Injector-Connector/dp/B004DFE5U4/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1325363319&sr=1-23
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Dec 31, 2011 23:44
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I'll pull it apart tomorrow and take a look, order as needed- thanks for the tip! On a side note I found a 30 dollar throttle sensor on Amazon made by .... some loving people. I got it since the one I had found previously on partsgeek was 270.
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Jan 1, 2012 01:54
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So I changed all the ATF for Motul synthetic, and all front and rear diff oils as well (and crank filter, screw on filter), the car no longer torque-binds that much (if all) and the shifts are smoother, there is some slight gear slippage, but it's reduced about 80% and it feels tighter everyday so I guess I don't have to swap my Legacy B4 4EAT for a Forester XT 4EAT and lose sportshift and all the g-sensors and fancy AWD stuff. Rigth? mulligan fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Jan 1, 2012 |
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Jan 1, 2012 05:46
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SO I had to take a few days break from my clutch but I got it all back together and then I did I hit the clutch and the pedal dropped to the floor. Duh, I thought, the TOB is still on the input shaft, I need to push it forward. Anyway... I installed a new (used stage 1) clutch and flywheel in my 02 5MT WRX. I removed the TOB from the pressure plate put it on the input shaft, put the fork in, then the pivot rod before installing the trans on the engine as directed in the Subaru manual. I put everything back together and now the shifter fork lever arm sits forward of where I recall it being beforehand and I have 0 clutch pressure. I think the TOB may not have been engaged. How do I make it engage? I figure I should just push back on the clutch fork lever arm with a screwdriver but it doesn't seem to get in there. I am not 100% positive it is not engaged but sorta think so. It is hard to tell through the inspection hole with my crappy flashlight. Also now that I have fully extended the slave cyl by pushing on the clutch, do I have to bleed the system? Here is a picture with the slave on. I removed the slave to try to push the fork lever back toward the firewall but I don't hear a click and there is free play in the clutch fork which it seems like there should be very little. I uploaded a video of me trying to push it including using a machinist vice handle for leverage. It just stops at the same hard spot.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gyv2XNjFtoQ
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Jan 1, 2012 22:42
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unbolt the slave cylinder and you will be able to engage the TOB to the pressure plate.
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Jan 1, 2012 23:37
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See video:Lord Gaga posted:I removed the slave to try to push the fork lever back toward the firewall but I don't hear a click and there is free play in the clutch fork which it seems like there should be very little. I uploaded a video of me trying to push it including using a machinist vice handle for leverage. It just stops at the same hard spot. Also here is a blurry video down the inspection hole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nY50S7fkMIc God drat I want my WRX back. I am driving a 1989 Volvo 240DL with what has to be about 6 horsepower. 19 electrical shorts that drain the battery. Bushing so old and rotted that going over speed bumps at 4mph leads to the car's body rotating left to right inexplicably.
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Jan 1, 2012 23:52
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well that sucks. The ring that keeps it in place probably came off. I've had to tweak the tabs slightly on the ring before so it stayed clicked in. Trans is going to have to come out again.
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Jan 2, 2012 00:59
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jamal posted:well that sucks. The ring that keeps it in place probably came off. I've had to tweak the tabs slightly on the ring before so it stayed clicked in. Trans is going to have to come out again. Is it somethign in the video that makes you think that or based on the description? I cannot tell you how much I don't wanna drop the trans again. It was a bitch and a half the first time. Now I have a 1/2" long cut in my left hand that needs to heal that I can't get dirty at all. I wish I had taken this to my grandma's neighbors shop I bet he would've charged me like $400. $400 well spent as this was a bitch and a half.
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Jan 2, 2012 01:07
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BobTheFerret posted:The reason I said seeing any FKLC at WOT (especially at high RPM) is so strange, is that FKLC should NOT be the knock control method used by the ECU at WOT! You shouldn't see FKLC at all if your foot is flat to the floor - knock correction under those conditions should solely be in the realm of feedback/FBKC and DAM. You must have some setting out of whack where your car is never adding the FKLC timing pulled back in in that particular load/rpm cell. Check your FLKC and FBKC delays. Yes, I'm aware of everything you wrote and I've read the guide several times. That's why I'm posting... because I'm very confused.  I'm going to spend some time this week doing some more datalogging to see if I can figure out more.
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Jan 2, 2012 06:34
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Lord Gaga posted:Is it somethign in the video that makes you think that or based on the description? I cannot tell you how much I don't wanna drop the trans again. It was a bitch and a half the first time. Now I have a 1/2" long cut in my left hand that needs to heal that I can't get dirty at all. I wish I had taken this to my grandma's neighbors shop I bet he would've charged me like $400. $400 well spent as this was a bitch and a half. yeah, you're pressing the fork back, and the tob isn't clicking into the pressure plate. something's got to be wrong with the ring/tabs in the pressure plate that holds the bearing in place.
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Jan 2, 2012 06:57
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So tonight was interesting.. Another driver decided to casually explore my lane, which forced me to maneuver into small concrete median to avoid collision, then after it all, decided to speed away like nothing happened. Apart from some nasty wheel/body rash, my alignment (possibly) being thrown to poo poo, and my poor endlink snapping, everything appears to be  alright. I was able to inspect the vehicle, then limp the car (approx. 3mi) home after the incident. I'm really unsure about what to do at this point, apart from having the obvious damage taken care of. My insurance deductible is $500, and the damage shouldn't cost anywhere near half of that to handle. Thoughts? Also for anyone in the SoCal (LA) area, does anyone know of a shop that carries kartboy products(08+ WRX endlinks)? TL;DR 2008 WRX drivers side single-vehicle collision into median at 40mph speed with cosmetic and who knows whatever other damage there may be; what broken bits should I keep an eye out for? McSpatula fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Jan 2, 2012 |
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Jan 2, 2012 09:45
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It won't be under $500. Suspension poo poo gets expensive in a hurry and any bodywork beyond PDR's probably a $500 bill. I hit a curb with a single wheel. Even getting junkyard parts and parts at cost, it easily exceeded $1000 (but I needed a new used wheel)
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Jan 2, 2012 10:45
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nm posted:I hit a curb with a single wheel. Even getting junkyard parts and parts at cost, it easily exceeded $1000 (but I needed a new used wheel) I hit a curb with a single wheel and wrote off an entire car 
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Jan 2, 2012 14:56
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Check your rear lateral link and front and rear lower control arm, those seem like common failure points on the GD chassis so they probably got carried over to the GE/GH. If the control arm has been intruded upon you'll also want to check the associated strut and its strut mount. My control arm was slightly bent from the previous owner's high speed curbing; when the car was aligned the caster was way off on that side (almost half a degree). With the bodywork and paint you're definitely into the thousand dollar range, sorry to say. Hard parts are the least of your worries cost-wise (but it might be a good time for some upgrades; the 08 WRX suspension is dire - go hunt on NASIOC for someone who's upgraded their 09+ and is getting rid of the original parts for cheap).
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Jan 2, 2012 19:14
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McSpatula posted:
If you have insurance, why are you checking anything? Take it to a shop you trust and have them look it over.
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Jan 2, 2012 19:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Check your rear lateral link and front and rear lower control arm, those seem like common failure points on the GD chassis so they probably got carried over to the GE/GH. If the control arm has been intruded upon you'll also want to check the associated strut and its strut mount. I also bent the knuckle and wheel bearing. The knuckle didn't become apparent until I tried to do a performance alignment as it would align within spec, but not to -1.5 like the other side. The wheel bearing started sounding like a prop plane far too close to the incident as well. I didn't claim insurance either. It was the gift that kept on giving. The only good thing is that my shop didn't charge me labor to replace the knuckle or wheel bearing because they felt they messed up by not catching that when labor would have been shared.
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Jan 2, 2012 20:17
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Amandyke posted:If you have insurance, why are you checking anything? Take it to a shop you trust and have them look it over. Truth be told, I was trying to save myself the rate hike if I. Could handle the damage myself. Threw it onto a lift this morning, turns out, the damage is worse than i expected: bent a control arm, tie rods, have lots of ball joint play; wouldn't be surprised if there's knuckle and bearing damage too.. I've never dealt with an insurance claim before, how do they handle aftermarket parts? I had a handful of Perrin pieces and would rather not go back to OEM.
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Jan 2, 2012 22:58
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McSpatula posted:I've never dealt with an insurance claim before, how do they handle aftermarket parts? I had a handful of Perrin pieces and would rather not go back to OEM. Insurance doesn't actually care what you do. You can take the check and spend it all on blow. You don't need to fix it. They just give you what it costs to fix to what it was like (with OE parts). If it is another party's insurance, then yes, you get value for your after market stuff. You filed a police report, right? (It isn't too late.)
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Jan 2, 2012 23:33
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