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nm posted:You filed a police report, right? (It isn't too late.) The insurance company said it wasn't required since it was being handled as a single vehicle collision and there was no damage to any property other than mine. Would a report serve any benefit?
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Jan 2, 2012 23:55
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So I dont leave it hanging I got my TOB in and everything together. I seem to be stalling due to the lightweight flywheel and I was probably getting misfire codes at first but after about 20 miles of driving the ECU seems to have figured it out. I just downloaded ECU explorer so I could read DTCs and it wasnt wanting to work with my tactrix at first glance but I'll figure it out. Def revs faster and engages way way way sooner. All in all for $300 for a lightweight flywheel, stage 1 clutch and cusco semi solid trans mount I am quite happy. Chatter was terrible at first BTW but that also seems to be smoothing out a bit. I sanded the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate with 1000 grit sandpaper as they had been sitting a bit. All in all it was a crappy experience. Hope I never have too do it again or if I do, at least have a lift and a friend the whole time next time.
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Jan 3, 2012 00:22
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McSpatula posted:The insurance company said it wasn't required since it was being handled as a single vehicle collision and there was no damage to any property other than mine. Would a report serve any benefit?
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Jan 3, 2012 00:43
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Can anyone recommend a shop in the DC area where I can get my 92x Aero a tune finally?
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Jan 3, 2012 01:36
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Safety Dance posted:I just test-drove a 2012 Outback 2.5i with the 6-speed transmission. It scratches my practical car itch and, upon further inspection, would be capable of going just about everywhere I've gone with my Jeep Wrangler (probably not over logs or through deep water though). quote:The power didn't thrill me, but I have a motorcycle for that (which the Outback can tow). Still, in about five years, could I do a WRX motor swap? quote:Also, am I foolish for taking an Outback over a WRX sedan? The boy racer in me is saying yes, but the guy who drives a practical car sedately and is sick of not being able to lock things up in a Wrangler says that the Outback is perfect. I was all set to put in an order, until taking a final test drive with my wife and daughter. Then I looked at the Forester, with an XT in mind. Sadly, the dead pedal is too loving awkward and tiny for someone taller than about 5' 11" on all but the base model (the power seat track doesn't go back quite as far). I hated the look of the Outback, but decided I might as well drive one since I was there. I skipped over the 2.5i, since I was going from a small car with the same HP and CVT, and the 3.6R was pretty fun to drive. It's not nearly as responsive as my Lancer (or the WRX), but it will definitely get out of its own way without needing to be stomped on.
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Jan 3, 2012 08:24
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I've a question for my fellow 92x owners - have any of you had any luck with this NHTSA recall over corroding control arms? It was announced in September but no recall notice has arrived yet; when you ask a Subaru dealer about it they say they can't run a Saab vin, and the Saab service center doesn't seem to answer the phone anymore.
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Jan 3, 2012 18:12
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I think all the saabs had aluminum control arms. so not an issue.
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Jan 3, 2012 20:28
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I'm thinking of making a longish drive to look at some Subarus this weekend. Here are two examples typical for my criteria (need something to put 30-40k miles on in the next 2-3 years). 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.2L 206k miles - $3000 http://www.dougjustus.com/vehicle/3406902/1996-Subaru-Legacy-Wagon-L-PQ-Equip-Alcoa-Tennessee-37701 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon Outback Sport 2.2L 167k miles - $4500 http://www.dougjustus.com/vehicle/3418621/1999-Subaru-Impreza-Wagon-Outback-Sport-Alcoa-Tennessee-37701 I'm keeping with 2.2L motors to avoid the head gasket issue. I'll try to look at timing belts. Any other thoughts on these two in particular or this class/era of Subaru? These prices seem like they're about right for dealer asking prices. Am I right about that?
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Jan 3, 2012 20:39
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I'm going to be putting a remote oil pressure gauge into my 200k mi 97 Outback Sport (EJ22) pretty soon. Which galley plug should I use if I'm concerned that my bearings are worn? From what I understand there are two plugs, and the front one is just used for the oil pressure switch (which is actually leaking quite substantially on my car - I can't decide if that's ironic or not). I would guess then that the factory chose the most important place to put the oil pressure switch and therefore I should tee that switch for my sender, but a lot of people seem to just put it in the rear galley plug and never have a problem. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 3, 2012 |
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Jan 3, 2012 20:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm going to be putting a remote oil pressure gauge into my 200k mi 97 Outback Sport (EJ22) pretty soon. Which galley plug should I use if I'm concerned that my bearings are worn? front and rear galley plugs will see nearly the same pressure, although the front one measures it before the oil gets to any of the bearings and the rear one is after all the passages right before oil goes into the head. I'd just stick with the front one because it's easier to reach and the difference in pressure from the pump outlet to the head is only going to be a couple of psi. Here's a handy diagram from the service manual:
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Jan 3, 2012 21:11
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jamal posted:I think all the saabs had aluminum control arms. so not an issue. I think it was only the rears.
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Jan 3, 2012 21:41
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Mark Kidd posted:I'm thinking of making a longish drive to look at some Subarus this weekend. Here are two examples typical for my criteria (need something to put 30-40k miles on in the next 2-3 years). Haha holy poo poo expensive. Those are some straight  prices
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Jan 3, 2012 21:41
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That's expensive even for here. I could probably pick up any of those cars private party for $2.5k or less, Canadian, without even negotiating. Are they extremely rare in your area, or are you currently experiencing a class three killstorm blizzard? Usually prices are much lower in the summer which is a good option if you can stretch your current car a few more months.
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Jan 3, 2012 21:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That's expensive even for here. I could probably pick up any of those cars private party for $2.5k or less, Canadian, without even negotiating. Glad I asked (sort of). Unfortunately I will have to live with a little bit of winter premium, can't wait till better weather for this - need something to get to work. (It's not the Rockies around here, but it is mountainous)
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Jan 3, 2012 22:00
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Does anyone have a diagram or feel like explaining how to remove the passenger outside piece of the dash on an '11 STi? I'm talking about essentially the part of the dash farthest to the right if you were sitting in the passenger seat. It's a weird shape, maybe 10 in^2, and mates to the door when it's closed and is not visible except for the edge. I have a totally loving agonizing rattle coming from somewhere over there and I think it's the glovebox piston/slider thing (no idea what to call it) that extends when the dash is open and retracts when it closes. No access to it without removing stuff.
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Jan 4, 2012 00:01
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Just pull up on it from the bottom, it pops right off.
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Jan 4, 2012 00:07
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Cat Terrist posted:Should be fine. And I was. In the course of the last 1200 miles needed to cross the 100,000 mile mark in my 03 WRX, I developed the cold-weather fuel leak (being fixed for free by the dealership presently along with the front control arm recall), a nail through my tire after taking a snowy dirt/mud/gravel/rock road for a total of 80-100 miles, and the pulley whine described earlier. Fortunately, my subie never left me stranded and was a champ on the snowy/icy dirt roads despite having hilariously inappropriate summer atuocross tires on it.  Panorama, which is kind of screwy because my friend taking the panorama was in a hurry so we could avoid blocking the single-lane road. http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=7ccb947e-894a-4d94-ac6d-ea7670f159bf Chaco Canyon is pretty: http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=1316a762-d070-4506-bcd4-2d018ada8cd0 (A friend's pictures, reposted with permission)
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Jan 4, 2012 00:37
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I'm going to profess my love for extra s again. This was the first real cold day we've had this year. It was 13F when I left work today and gear oil flowed just as smoothly at this temp as an 80 degree day. There was zero hint of any post stuck in mud feeling.
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Jan 4, 2012 03:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm going to be putting a remote oil pressure gauge into my 200k mi 97 Outback Sport (EJ22) pretty soon. Which galley plug should I use if I'm concerned that my bearings are worn? I did mine on the rear galley plug. NA car so it was plenty easy to get to. Just kind of butt puckering popping that plug off. I used the prosport remote kit. http://prosportgauges.com/remote-oil-pressure-sender-installation-kit.aspx
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Jan 4, 2012 03:13
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http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/2741933476.html Thoughts? If I happen to check this out..how do I tell if this is legit and in good shape? How do I even begin to evaluate it? Or should I just avoid entirely. If you can't click: 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Turbo, AWD auto. Car was purchased 10 month ago, with bad engine and 103,608 miles. The engine was completely rebuilt with genuine Subaru parts, new turbo charger, many new sensors, transmission was serviced in tranny shop. Rebuilt front axles, new tires, drilled-slotted rotors and ceramic pads all around, a new battery. Now the car has 106,020 miles, very clean car, no rust. Asking $9,950 obo.
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Jan 4, 2012 06:52
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Cozmosis posted:http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/2741933476.html That seems like a good deal... But why would he spend *thousands of dollars* on an engine/tranny rebuild to turn around and sell it less than a year later at likely a significant loss?
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Jan 4, 2012 08:07
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I find that a lot of guys will drop a ton of coin on repairing the car and then immediately sell it at a loss due to having lost confidence in the car but having to repair it in order to sell it. It's the same mentality that makes you want to avoid any freshly repainted used car.  I'd take it to a trusted mechanic (or the dealership) for a compression and leakdown test, as I would with any used Subaru. I'd also want full documentation and any warranty outstanding on the engine rebuild, especially if the warranty is transferrable to you. "New turbo charger" alongside a new engine sounds to me like a banjo bolt oil starvation issue, which Subaru corporate blames on negligence in oil change maintenance. A decent engine rebuild would negate that, I'd hope, but I'd be looking at other parts of the car that may not have been maintained properly by the previous-previous owner. FWIW, I'd jump on it at that deal assuming everything checks out. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jan 4, 2012 |
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Jan 4, 2012 08:10
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Anyone heard anything about the Deatschwerks DW65 pump yet? Seems to be brand new, I can't find anything about it on their site. 265lph and a direct drop in replacement for the OEM pump. Seems nice since I don't want to hack apart my pump housing.
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Jan 5, 2012 00:00
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blargle posted:Anyone heard anything about the Deatschwerks DW65 pump yet? Seems to be brand new, I can't find anything about it on their site. 265lph and a direct drop in replacement for the OEM pump. Seems nice since I don't want to hack apart my pump housing. If it works as well as their injectors, I'd have no issues with putting it in my car.
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Jan 5, 2012 02:10
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Amandyke posted:That seems like a good deal... But why would he spend *thousands of dollars* on an engine/tranny rebuild to turn around and sell it less than a year later at likely a significant loss?
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Jan 5, 2012 03:04
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nm posted:I considered this briefly. Dumping over $5k in your station wagon to make it work again is loving depressing. I almost bought a mustang GT. The new one? Hell you almost should have. The motor in that thing bone stock is amazing. That car is stupid fast bone stock, would easily destroy a stock STI on the strip and possibly on the track as well for less money. Ford's got some kind of blood magic going on with that thing. No rational reason a live axle'd sports car should handle the way it does.
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Jan 5, 2012 03:08
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Amandyke posted:The new one? Hell you almost should have. The motor in that thing bone stock is amazing. That car is stupid fast bone stock, would easily destroy a stock STI on the strip and possibly on the track as well for less money. Ford's got some kind of blood magic going on with that thing. No rational reason a live axle'd sports car should handle the way it does.
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Jan 5, 2012 03:26
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nm posted:No, no, not a new one. I didn't have that kind of money, I'd just dumped more than $5k into my station wagon.  I'm also in the $5k club for my slow wagon.
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Jan 5, 2012 03:48
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upwards of $3k here and I have the biggest piece of poo poo out of all of us.
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Jan 5, 2012 04:20
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Just dumped 15k on my 91 Sedan ;D Quick questions, is the gates belt worth it over an OEM? I've never had one skip on me, has anybody caused any damage with a stock one? I'm running a Blouch Dom 2.5 (Managed to get one imported to Australia yay  ) on a 2.5 with rebuilt V4 heads and am looking at cam/spring options. I cant seem to find anything under $1k at all, which seems a bit rich for the 15kw I'll get and the tuning of the power band. I paid 300 for a pair on my SR20 =\Any other tips on a 2.5 build into an early car? I've gone with the biggest arp head studs, doing an under manifold intake using an early RS turbo manifold, parallel rails, semi closed deck etc. Didn't go with doweling the block as I won't be pushing more then 400hp on E85. kaws! fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Jan 5, 2012 |
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Jan 5, 2012 13:47
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bull3964 posted:I'm going to profess my love for extra s again. This was the first real cold day we've had this year. It was 13F when I left work today and gear oil flowed just as smoothly at this temp as an 80 degree day. There was zero hint of any post stuck in mud feeling. What's this "extra s" stuff? Have a reputation for being safe to use in the (notoriously sensitive to gear oil and additives) Subaru 5/6 speed transmissions? I'd love something that doesn't make me feel like I'm damaging my transmission by making it slog through congealed gear oil on (at times negative) single-digit mornings - it's pretty depressing when the revs drop by a few hundred when I'm just letting out the clutch in neutral in the morning.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:36
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It's OEM Subaru gear oil: http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-75w90-extra-s-gear-and-transmission-quart-bottle.html Jared592 fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jan 5, 2012 |
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Jan 5, 2012 16:41
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What's funny is that it's the OEM Subaru ear oil, but they sure as hell don't seem to ship cars from the factory with it. They also didn't use it when my transmission was replaced in 2009. So, Extra S is quite the puzzle. It's amazing gear oil for the Subaru boxes, it's OEM, but they don't seem to use it ever.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:47
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bull3964 posted:So, Extra S is quite the puzzle. It's amazing gear oil for the Subaru boxes, it's OEM, but they don't seem to use it ever. Wow, that seems a bit silly. Thanks for the tip though, I'll give it a try next time I swap out the transmission oil.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:51
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It just seems like it's something that Subaru came up with specially for our boxes, but then never sent out a bulletin to dealerships to require them to use it. So, some have it and use it, some fill up with whatever meets spec. Aside from places like Fred Bean Parts (which is where I ordered mine from) that break it out into quarts, it's only available in 5 gallon drums.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:56
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Yeah, our local dealerships don't even have it (they have Motul or I think Castrol). I have no idea why, and most of their service writers don't even know of its existence when I mention it. I really want to try it out. Someone who figured out how to import it into Canada could probably make a few bucks. Who wants to dig a tunnel under the border? e: Fred Beans used to say it's the stock fill in 2010+ STIs but have changed their description. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Jan 5, 2012 |
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Jan 5, 2012 17:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, our local dealerships don't even have it (they have Motul or I think Castrol). I have no idea why, and most of their service writers don't even know of its existence when I mention it. I really want to try it out. But I dunno, I suspect dealers rarely, if ever, rebuild a 6 speed,
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Jan 5, 2012 17:25
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Can anyone comment on stock 98-03 Legacy wagon handling versus classic and bugeye non-turbo imprezas? There are a couple 2.5GX Legacies around, but I haven't driven a pre-04 Legacy before. Slightly stodgier Impreza, or wobbly blunt instrument (again, I'm talking GX not a GT-B, RS or other JDM toooooner version)? Not sure whether to cross them off my shopping list. You do see them with the climate control and fancy stereo (some Imprezas round here still came with tape decks in this century, it appears), plus a lot more load space than the Impreza, but it sounds like a lot of extra weight.
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Jan 5, 2012 17:42
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Saga posted:Can anyone comment on stock 98-03 Legacy wagon handling versus classic and bugeye non-turbo imprezas? My 04 WRX has a tape deck standard. I use it for mp3 as there is no aux input.
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Jan 5, 2012 19:09
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Saga posted:Can anyone comment on stock 98-03 Legacy wagon handling versus classic and bugeye non-turbo imprezas? It handles like a slightly heavier long wheelbase Impreza. It really isn't that heavy even though it is bigger since it's mostly empty space, only ~3000 lb. The Legacy handles better than the Outback since it is lighter by ~200 lb and is lower. Expect the usual amount of Subaru understeer though. Steering feel is the same as a contemporary Impreza and is actually quite nice, it has good feedback and feels solid. It makes a really excellent highway cruiser as long as you don't mind listening to music, short gearing means at 70mph the engine will be at 3000RPM already. It tracks really well and is pretty comfortable. Really you have to ask yourself how much poo poo you need to carry.
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Jan 5, 2012 19:30
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