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The mechanic columnist from Roundel is selling a car of his: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130624383693 Incredibly detailed info. Sorta figures he'd be in West Newton.
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Jan 4, 2012 10:37
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kimbo305 posted:The mechanic columnist from Roundel is selling a car of his: He's my favorite columnist because he's like a glimpse into my distant future. I can't wait to read the article about why he is trying to sell this.
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Jan 4, 2012 14:52
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kimbo305 posted:The mechanic columnist from Roundel is selling a car of his: I wouldn't buy that car, but I'd give almost anything to have him be the seller of every other car I ever buy. All that rust... :\
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Jan 4, 2012 20:23
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Just test drove a 2008 535 xi  The car fits me beautifully (6'5") and drove much "smaller" than I expected. I'm used to coupes so that was a surprise; I was expecting a powerful but somewhat bloated ride. The interior is gorgeous and felt just right. I didn't pull the trigger but the dealer went from the $30K list price to 27.5 out-the-door after some haggling (being a previous customer helped too), and offered me $2500 for my '93 Wrangler, sight unseen. The Jeep has 285K miles so I can't pass up that equity. There is no way I would get close to that selling private party. The car is CPO and covered until 8/14. I think I could offer $26.5 and settle on 27K even which seems very reasonable for my area. Many similar cars are listed in the $31K range. It just crossed 60K miles - what do I need to look out for when I take a second look? The HPFP issue was addressed and the vehicle has an excellent history of dealer service but it's due for the 60K. It ran smooth, there were no puddles, leaks, noises, or other issues that got my attention, but I'm not familiar with these cars. Is there anything else to expect over the next 15-20K miles? I only drive 7500 miles/year so if I can go problem-free on the non-warranty areas until it expires up I'd be very satisfied.
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Jan 4, 2012 23:25
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If it's due for its 60k service, that should really be done before being sold as a CPO car. Otherwise you're going to want to try to haggle another ~$1000 off the price to account for the impending service. 60k is the "big" one, though maybe it's different on the E60.
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Jan 4, 2012 23:29
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I would check out the new F10s first and decide if you want to wait a couple years for them to come down in price. Mostly because I think the new 5 is gorgeous though.
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Jan 5, 2012 00:30
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So I got a new job and I'm making some decent money now. That means new car time! My first car was a '93 740i and I loved it to death. I have my eyes on a 2004 330Ci 6MT. It has 115000 miles on it and he wants $10k but he's willing to work with me with the price. I just ran a carfax on it and it turns out it has 5 previous owners and it failed emissions once at 76,000 miles but passed immediately after and recently in 2011. So what I'm asking here, given the history, what am I watching out for?
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Jan 5, 2012 04:41
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moondabor posted:So I got a new job and I'm making some decent money now. That means new car time! My first car was a '93 740i and I loved it to death. I have my eyes on a 2004 330Ci 6MT. It has 115000 miles on it and he wants $10k but he's willing to work with me with the price. I just ran a carfax on it and it turns out it has 5 previous owners and it failed emissions once at 76,000 miles but passed immediately after and recently in 2011.
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Jan 5, 2012 04:48
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moondabor posted:So I got a new job and I'm making some decent money now. That means new car time! My first car was a '93 740i and I loved it to death. I have my eyes on a 2004 330Ci 6MT. It has 115000 miles on it and he wants $10k but he's willing to work with me with the price. I just ran a carfax on it and it turns out it has 5 previous owners and it failed emissions once at 76,000 miles but passed immediately after and recently in 2011. Save up and get a cleaner car with better history. You won't regret it.
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Jan 5, 2012 06:19
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The Third Man posted:I would check out the new F10s first and decide if you want to wait a couple years for them to come down in price. Mostly because I think the new 5 is gorgeous though. If I wait a few years I'll have nothing to drive in the meantime - I have a lease up soon. By the time I could consider a newer 5 I would cycle through another car anyway, and I can't seem to keep anything in my driveway for more than 3 years. Is $26K out the door a good deal for this car with the 60K service negotiated into the price? http://www.townehyundai.com/used-cars/2008-bmw-5-series-4dr-sdn-535xi-awd-v878286/
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Jan 5, 2012 15:49
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moondabor posted:So I got a new job and I'm making some decent money now. That means new car time! My first car was a '93 740i and I loved it to death. I have my eyes on a 2004 330Ci 6MT. It has 115000 miles on it and he wants $10k but he's willing to work with me with the price. I just ran a carfax on it and it turns out it has 5 previous owners and it failed emissions once at 76,000 miles but passed immediately after and recently in 2011. Although destructo nailed most of them on the head, you may want to look at the E46 wiki from Bimmerfest: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php/BMW_E46 Lots of good info for E46 stuff.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:08
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PXJ800 posted:If I wait a few years I'll have nothing to drive in the meantime - I have a lease up soon. By the time I could consider a newer 5 I would cycle through another car anyway, and I can't seem to keep anything in my driveway for more than 3 years. Seems good. Where I work they have a pair of 09's over 50k going for 32 and 35k.
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Jan 5, 2012 19:30
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Sweet, thanks for the info guys. I talked to the guy some more and most of the owner changes were from loan to owner. I found him on bimmerforums so I have a good idea what the car went through. Seems that he replaced his VANOS seals and lower intake boot. Windows seem fine. It might have a cooling system overhaul so do you think this is something I can significantly knock off the price? I found another one in San Diego with 104K miles. The problem with this one is it has an accident on the carfax but no police report. It's located in San Diego and carfax says accidents with $700+ damages require a police report? Gonna go see it in a moment. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/2780422134.html second car moondabor fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jan 5, 2012 |
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Jan 5, 2012 21:41
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I went back today to check the car in detail. When my salesman pulled out the big guns trying to get me to sell and pulling me in for a sit-down with the service manager I knew I was pushing close to a deal. Earlier I called a local dealer about the 60K service and got somebody really helpful on the line. He told me the 535 doesn't go by mileage intervals and doesn't have the old Inspection 1/2 system. Instead the iDrive will put up alerts for service as things wear with a green/yellow/red system and it's all based on that particular car and driving habits. I went into the system and got green lights all around, and managed to do this with just the lot attendant handing over the key, so sales doesn't know about that factor. In the general maintenance section it features the status of things like pads and oil, and there is a separate service area for codes it may throw. There was an "all systems OK" green readout so that was a major comfort. I'm still going to try to work the price for the 60K "service" since the service manager is under that impression and I would love the small victory of pulling one over on the dealer. After a few minutes of idling the car put up a "low oil" alert but these engines consume oil according to all reports, so that seems to be just a usual thing and as long as I go back tomorrow and the problem is cleared I think it's a go.
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Jan 5, 2012 23:53
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PXJ800 posted:I went back today to check the car in detail. When my salesman pulled out the big guns trying to get me to sell and pulling me in for a sit-down with the service manager I knew I was pushing close to a deal. Earlier I called a local dealer about the 60K service and got somebody really helpful on the line. He told me the 535 doesn't go by mileage intervals and doesn't have the old Inspection 1/2 system. Instead the iDrive will put up alerts for service as things wear with a green/yellow/red system and it's all based on that particular car and driving habits. The iDrive will pull up the CBS data for that stuff which can be monitored by a sensor, but you still want an inspection on the bushings and other suspension components. At that mileage the bushings are likely on the way out Plus the obvious of changing the air filter, cabin filter, and making sure the tires are still good. e: I looked up the service history and it doesn't have any open campaigns since the HDP and injector recall has been taken care of already. Nodoze fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jan 6, 2012 |
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Jan 6, 2012 00:23
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Nodoze posted:The iDrive will pull up the CBS data for that stuff which can be monitored by a sensor, but you still want an inspection on the bushings and other suspension components. At that mileage the bushings are likely on the way out
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Jan 6, 2012 01:21
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This is a terrible request, but is there a decent E53 pre-purchase inspection checklist anywhere out there? Everything I find close to the subject is somewhere between brain dead and useless. I need a vehicle to tow a clownshoe to racetracks, if that helps me maintain my dignity somewhat.
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Jan 6, 2012 04:15
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Ok guys, I need a hand here. Perhaps literally. 1985 325E (e30), 230k... I'm doing the timing belt and I'm having the hardest time pushing the tensioner and spring down enough to slip the belt over it. It just won't go down far enough! I spent an hour trying to get it on but I figured I shouldn't force it and should instead try to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Anyone else had trouble with this? It's my first time doing a belt on this car, but I've done it before with Fords and the like.
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Jan 6, 2012 05:55
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Are there any major issues / failure points to look out for with the N43? I'm looking at a facelift E46 318i touring to replace my E30, and I'm not familiar with the later 4 cylinder engines. I've owned a 330 coupe previously so am familiar with the long list of other poo poo that will droop, break, wear out or fall off.  Is sludging an issue with these? Car looks to have been maintained according to the factory service indicator, unfortunately!
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Jan 6, 2012 13:25
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So my E34 525i appears to have the VANOS seals blues. I'm getting little power below 3k RPM and then it takes off like a rocketship. Also my fuel mileage is more terrible than usual. I've read up on the process of replacing the seals. Does anyone have any good places to get the parts and the tools needed cheaply?
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Jan 6, 2012 15:28
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8ender posted:So my E34 525i appears to have the VANOS seals blues. I'm getting little power below 3k RPM and then it takes off like a rocketship. Also my fuel mileage is more terrible than usual. I've heard good things about DrVanos (http://www.drvanos.com/) but I've never used them personally.
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Jan 6, 2012 15:42
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This place has seals and good writeups on the whole process: http://www.beisansystems.com/ Dr Vanos sells complete rebuilt vanos units that you swap in and send them yours back for a core. It's a lot more expensive but you aren't replacing the seals yourself. The beisan way is cheap but you will spend a couple hours with the seals, you need some special tools also. I need to do them on my car... I will probably just do a dr vanos. I will only have to do it the one time, plus I don't have a vise or anything. Infinotize fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jan 6, 2012 |
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Jan 6, 2012 16:30
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Infinotize posted:This place has seals and good writeups on the whole process: It looked to me like the hardest part is just getting the vanos unit itself out of the engine. The seal replacement looked like two simple steps. Did I misread?
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Jan 6, 2012 22:11
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I think Dr Vanos rents special tools out as well, in case you don't have them.
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Jan 6, 2012 22:17
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You need a vice with soft inserts, and one or two other things to do it with besian systems. When I do my e46 vanos at some point I'll just to dr vanos for ease of installation and the better bearings. You will definitely need the cam timing tools for an M50 though. 8ender posted:It looked to me like the hardest part is just getting the vanos unit itself out of the engine. The seal replacement looked like two simple steps. Did I misread? It depends what you're doing. A lot of vanos replacement on the M54 is for the rattle sound, which requires a ton loving around with the thrust bearing. For not that much more than a seal kit+bearing kit+tools, you can buy dr vanos with the better fitted bearings and then just send them your old vanos when you're done. I don't know if the rattle is as big an issue on the single vanos units.
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Jan 7, 2012 00:53
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If you're going to install the anti-rattle rings and already have a vise clamp and an air tool, I would personally do it myself. Everything for a double vanos from Beisan is $140. The hardest part about the entire process is getting to the vanos itself. Replacing the seals is cake, and the process to replace the anti-rattle rings are a bit more involved, but they provide very detailed instructions. It's $110 more to get the kit from Dr. Vanos, or 78% more. I'd rather spend the $110 on something else, but if you're completely strapped for time or don't have the clamp/air tools, by all means pay the Dr. Vanos tax, it would be worth it in those cases.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:37
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Ohhhh, yes 2007 Z4 3.0si coupe with a bit under 38k miles. Just took it home from the dealership yesterday. In Minnesota. In January. So I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for winterizing the car in an attached, unheated garage for about 2 or 3 months. The dealer mentioned a battery tender, since BMW batteries can be expensive to replace, but that's all he suggested. Some guides online suggest replacing fluids, filling up the gas tank, cleaning the car, etc. Since it's fresh from the dealership, I'm assuming most of that stuff is in good shape. Then they suggest things like disconnecting the fuel pump, adding a fuel stabilizer, and jacking the car up. Do you think these are good suggestions for a car like this? Should I just man up and follow the guide to the letter, or is it overkill? Have any suggestions for a specific battery tender (I poked through the Tools thread to no avail)? Any advice is appreciated. I can't wait for Spring!!! AAaaaaaaaaaaaa
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Jan 7, 2012 15:30
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More for uk goons but is this car (1987 E28 520i Lux) a bad idea for its price (£995): http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=FSW&action=display&thread=119692 It'll be a project car - updated suspension, little/no driveline changes etc. but I know nothing about the E28 and wouldn't want to sink money into a lemon.
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Jan 7, 2012 15:53
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ColdPie posted:Ohhhh, yes If you add fuel stabalizer (which you should), you need to run the engine a bit to circulate it. Don't know why you would disconnect the pump. Battery tender is also a good thing, but I never ended up putting one on my 330i because I couldn't seem to find one locally. If you don't put one there is the possibility the battery dies. Definitely jack the car up - the tires can potentially flatspot. If you absolutely can't, then add an extra 10psi to each tire. I'd also jam something over the tailpipe to prevent mice, and get some dessicant packs and throw them in the trunk and interior. I've also heard of mothballs being used because mice apparently hate them.
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Jan 7, 2012 16:51
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Ok guys this question is even stupider than the last one.Old Question posted:Ok guys, I need a hand here. Perhaps literally. So I got the timing belt tensioned down appropriately, but now I've discovered another problem. When I took the crankshaft hub apart, I didn't make sure it was at TDC beforehand. So I'm asking is there some way to make sure the crank is at TDC without lining up the alignment marks on the hub and lower block?
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Jan 7, 2012 20:04
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Do M20's have a little hole in the back to lock the flywheel at TDC like the other BMW engines?
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Jan 7, 2012 20:16
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Lowclock posted:Do M20's have a little hole in the back to lock the flywheel at TDC like the other BMW engines? If they did, where would this hole be? I'm sorry to say I have no idea, as this is my first BMW and therefore my first BMW engine.
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Jan 7, 2012 21:09
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'93 E36 noob back again: All my lights have been flickering recently, inside and out. I even notice at low RPMs that my fuel injectors (or something) are "flickering," if you will, which makes it feel like im accelerating choppily. The dashboard lights have gone out completely and came back on right away for the first time the other day, too. I've googled this issue and found that it could be a grounding issue or a voltage regulator issue. I don't think the alt is bad, I replaced it not too long ago. I have no idea about this, but was my voltage regulator likely replaced with the alternator? Knowing that would maybe help narrow this down.
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Jan 7, 2012 21:38
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EVIR Gibson posted:So has anyone drove the 335d as a daily driver or know someone who does? I might want to get one and would like to test drive it with a clear head. Might be a little late, but yes, I DD one when my parents are out of town (read: 10 months a year). What do you want to know about it? The one I have access to is a 2011 LCI M-Sport in white with a tuner. The exceptional things about it are the power it has from a roll, especially highway speeds, and the fuel range. I've seen 700mi on a single tank of diesel. From a stop you can floor the car and it doesn't really know what to do, kinda just sits there for a second before going - launching it requires brake boosting.  Normal drive mode for the transmission is pretty laggy at low speeds, switching to sport mode helps out a lot but it's still not the most responsive thing in the world. It also needs a LSD really bad. Anything else I would have to say also applies to the 335i so it would be irrelevant.Maybe that comes off a little harsh - I love the car and so would almost everyone that isn't looking for a manual. The only actual negative thing about the car to me is no manual option and so far I have seen no aftermarket 'fix' for that yet. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 21:54
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Loco posted:'93 E36 noob back again: Do you have an 18-button obc? It has a secret menu option to readout the system voltage.
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Jan 7, 2012 22:24
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revmoo posted:Do you have an 18-button obc? It has a secret menu option to readout the system voltage. Nope I don't, that sounds awesome.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:07
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Cross posting from the "what I did to my car today" thread. Finally did something about my poo poo-tastic steering wheel. It was starting to do that thing where the leather gets gooey and falls apart, especially where the sun hits it from behind and it was driving me nuts. Oh, and it was ugly as hell from day one. What the gently caress, BMW. The new one looks a ton more modern, despite being only a couple years newer. Installation was pretty easy, I only had to cut and splice one wire (horn) and swap the bracket that all the stalks mount on. The rest was plug-n-play. Old:  New: 
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 23:15
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How did the airbag connection work? or is there one?
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Jan 7, 2012 23:32
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revmoo posted:How did the airbag connection work? or is there one? The plug on the new wheel plugged right in to the existing harness. Both are single-stage bags, so the new one is compatible with the existing deployment system. I would have probably run into trouble if I tried installing a wheel with a newer dual-stage bag.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:40
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Nice wheel. I wanted to get one of those with steering wheel controls to adapt to my old e34 but found a really cheap late model one and just used that. How much was it and where did you get it? And out of curiosity, why the external sirius reciever?
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Jan 7, 2012 23:45
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