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law abiding rapist posted:It handles like a slightly heavier long wheelbase Impreza. It really isn't that heavy even though it is bigger since it's mostly empty space, only ~3000 lb. The Legacy handles better than the Outback since it is lighter by ~200 lb and is lower. Expect the usual amount of Subaru understeer though. Steering feel is the same as a contemporary Impreza and is actually quite nice, it has good feedback and feels solid. Thanks for the input! As far as carrying stuff, two kids, two dogs, motorcycle stuff plus trailer, multiple mountain bikes etc. At some point it's probably going to go to France with 4-5 people's snowboarding poo poo, groceries, clothing and random crap. My E30 touring can do that, loaded to the gunnels, but I bet the Impreza wagon wouldn't. I can feel the 100kg the Impreza classic has over the E30 around roundabouts, but that said, as long as the Legacy turns in and steers OK and has the same sort of grip level, it sounds like it's a decent compromise. I can deal with noise on the highway. The E30 is revving ~4100 rpm at 80, so it will be a slight improvement if anything. I guess the Legacies will stay on the shortlist then.
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Jan 5, 2012 20:14
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Thanks in large part to this thread, I widened my net for potential vehicles and just bought this 98 Subaru Legacy Outback - http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/2779654755.html Seems like it needs rear bearings replaced and still has it's original head gasket so I'm looking forward to keeping up with this thread while I get it into shape.
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Jan 5, 2012 21:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, our local dealerships don't even have it (they have Motul or I think Castrol). I have no idea why, and most of their service writers don't even know of its existence when I mention it. I really want to try it out. I live on the border with Michigan. I could just drive over with the Mazda5 and load the rear end end of it. If I buy less than about $250 at a time, I can usually sneak through without paying duty 
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Jan 5, 2012 23:05
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Sockington posted:I live on the border with Michigan. I could just drive over with the Mazda5 and load the rear end end of it. It's totally worth it. It's made a huge difference in transmission feel and the smoothness of shifts, especially when it's cold.
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Jan 5, 2012 23:42
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Bud Manstrong posted:It's totally worth it. It's made a huge difference in transmission feel and the smoothness of shifts, especially when it's cold. I have an automatic, so no good for me 
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Jan 6, 2012 00:00
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Sockington posted:I live on the border with Michigan. I could just drive over with the Mazda5 and load the rear end end of it. 
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Jan 6, 2012 01:01
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Bud Manstrong posted:It's totally worth it. It's made a huge difference in transmission feel and the smoothness of shifts, especially when it's cold. Has anyone tried it it a non-subaru transmission? The shifter in my echo is about as notchy as a transmission can get. It currently has whatever that redline trans oil is in it, mt90? I dunno, redline is literally in the next town over from me and I've never liked their products.
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Jan 6, 2012 02:47
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I think you can probably find a better fit for a regular manual transmission. Here's the issue with subaru transmissions. They need to use an oil with high pressure additives because of the hypoid gear that makes up the front differential. Those additives tend to hurt the effectiveness of synchros. That's why things like "uncle scotty's cocktail" were so popular. They were mixing a gear oil build for hypoid gearsets with an oil that was specifically make to improve synchro function. Extra S gives the same result but in an oil that was spec'd to be 100% compatible with the transmission. There's been some indication that "uncle scotty's cocktail" may actually cause long term transmission issues due to a chemical interaction between the mixture and various metals in the transmission.
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Jan 6, 2012 03:58
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How much is this 2003 WRX worth? I am considering buying it for a swap into my 99 RS project.  
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Jan 6, 2012 23:54
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Welp, got a couple of oil drips on the floor under my 2007 Forester, and it looks the head gaskets are seeping. drat, I thought this was more-or-less fixed. I haven't taken off the undertray to get a good look, but I can definitely see oily-ness around the driver's side HG. It looks like the SOHC head gaskets can be changed without engine removal. T/F? If true, is it a terrible idea? I have small hands... The coolant is still there and I don't smell any combustion products in the reservior, so it seems like I'm OK on the inside for now. Maybe I can just get lazy until summer and put in a 10W30 oil?
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Jan 7, 2012 00:14
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daslog posted:How much is this 2003 WRX worth? I am considering buying it for a swap into my 99 RS project. I would love to hear the backstory on that car.
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Jan 7, 2012 00:42
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JayKay posted:I would love to hear the backstory on that car. There was a doozy of a 2010 WRX posted to a semi-local salvage auction, I wish I had saved the pictures. The spare tire cover was ejected through the hatchback glass and the entire car must have been about a foot shorter on each end. I dunno how much I'd really offer for that '03 and the opaque exhaust smoke isn't reassuring me about the quality of the engine (maybe it's just cold). What are they asking? Is the front diff ok?
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Jan 7, 2012 00:58
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Salvage motor from a yard is roughly $2k with a warranty. I'd say offer him 3k to start.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's probably a rollover (note that the B-pillar bar did its job here). The broken ball joint/front suspension parts on the passenger side probably means that a curb was involved at some point. It is cold here this time of day, and it's on Craig's list as a part out car. I'm thinking abut just buying the whole thing. No idea on asking price or the front diff.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:08
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http://y2kimports.com/ You can use these guys as a high ballpark price. If it did rollover, I'd definitely listen to the motor running. Being upside down ain't so good for them while they are running.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:09
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Im most of the way through parting out an '03 wrx wagon that was a side impact. I would have sold the entire car for $3.5k. So far, I've made $5150 from the car and I still have probably $1k worth of parts to sell
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Jan 7, 2012 01:23
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c355n4 posted:Being upside down ain't so good for them while they are running.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Isn't there a switch in the motor to turn it off if the car is upside down? I thought I read that somewhere. It's in the fuel filler pipe
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Jan 7, 2012 01:38
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Learn something new everday!
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Jan 7, 2012 01:50
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This is an oil analysis of my GL. Pretty happy with it, all seems to be fine  http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/89%20GL/blackstoneGL.png 
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Jan 7, 2012 02:04
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What oil are you running? Is the GL an old enough motor to require ZDDP oil?
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Jan 7, 2012 02:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What oil are you running? Is the GL an old enough motor to require ZDDP oil? I'm running napa oil. It has one of the OHV motors out of an early 80's car.
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Jan 7, 2012 05:34
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So my dumb rear end somehow managed to mess up the jazzy aux mod on my 05 lgt. The aux in itself works fine, but the CD player no longer works. When the car first starts, I can hear the CD player motor working, but nothing happens after that. Pressing the button to change from radio to CD doesn't have any effect (LCD doesn't ever change to CD). Any ideas about what I could have done and how to fix it?
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Jan 7, 2012 11:21
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Hey guys, I bought a used exedy 14lb flywheel and 'stage 1' clutch for my swapped 2.5rs. I bought them with the understanding that there were no defects or heat damage to the flywheel. The back of the flywheel has some blue discoloration  There's no discoloration on the clutch surface but it looks like this  The clutch pressure plate surface  The clutch disc has a small ding (lower right in pic) on it from shipping that I didn't think was worrisome. The clutch is supposed to have ~10k miles on it and there's about 1.8mm of clutch material before it gets down to the rivets, which I think is pretty close to new.  Is that heat damage to the flywheel? The blue discoloration and marks on the clutch surface look like it to me.
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Jan 7, 2012 17:25
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dyne posted:Is that heat damage to the flywheel? The blue discoloration and marks on the clutch surface look like it to me. Yes.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:41
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Bah, I just looked at it again and found a .5x.5mm area of tiny cracks in the clutch surface. Is it worth trying to use? Im doing the work myself so Id only be out time and the (not-huge) cost of the flywheel (which I may be out already if the seller is a douche) if I have to change it out again.
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Jan 7, 2012 21:03
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dyne posted:Hey guys, I bought a used exedy 14lb flywheel and 'stage 1' clutch for my swapped 2.5rs. I bought them with the understanding that there were no defects or heat damage to the flywheel. I was in almost the same boat. I have ~200 miles on my new to me exedy stage one and stage one lightweight flywheel. I also had a very small nicks from shipping, it has been ok so far without problems. Mine had a similar "advertised mileage". The exedy lightweight flywheel has made mine more likely to stall by a lot, though this is on a wrx. Make sure to let it re learn its idle when you go to start it. My PP and flywheel has some discoloration on the surface/hard spots. The surface of your flywheel looks somewhat chattery, more so than mine did. Mine had a hot spot or two on the flywheel but not on the PP. The clutch looks to have substantial life on it. I used overall clutch thickness with my digital caliper to gauge life. Supposedly this had 9,000 miles on it. It had about 64% life left assuming 6mm thickness as out of spec and 7.8mm as original thickness spec. For the flywheel: If you can get it resurfaced and balanced locally it may be like $70 and be worth it. If not I would try to sand or stone or if you have a lapping table (or a friend with a machine ship) try that to see if theres any high spots. It may be ok as is.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:41
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Changing the diff and gear box oil with motul was the best thing I have ever done for my 4EATSS, the car was torque binding, rough shifting, and felt like poo poo all day. the subaru dealership suggested I rebuild the transmission, the local Subaru tuners adviced changing the oil (looked ok) to Motul gear oil and Motul ATF, we also cleaned the oil pan filter and replaced the ATF filter with a new Subaru OEM one)... the difference is night and day, everyday the car feels smoother and I can now sell with the confidence, shifts are quick and you can barely feel them. I'm going to buy a Legacy GT 2006 with 50,000 miles, also selling the Lancia Delta and buying an FD. Good times!
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Jan 8, 2012 03:42
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dyne posted:Hey guys, I bought a used exedy 14lb flywheel and 'stage 1' clutch for my swapped 2.5rs. I bought them with the understanding that there were no defects or heat damage to the flywheel. OKay, first I would consider putting that back in the car IF it came of mine. But I would in absolutly NO WAY ever pick up second hand flywheel / clutch components. It is not worth the risk
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Jan 8, 2012 11:09
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Cat Terrist posted:OKay, first I would consider putting that back in the car IF it came of mine. But I would in absolutly NO WAY ever pick up second hand flywheel / clutch components. It is not worth the risk It seems to me that the only people who replace this stuff before it completely breaks are people who beat on their cars.
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Jan 8, 2012 14:32
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I'm currently running steelies & snows, but I'm starting to think about getting stuff situated for spring. I'm down to 3 non-trashed OEM 17's, one trashed one, and four tires that need replacing. I had a bead on a set of 2011 WRX wheels with tires, but all the research I did indicated they'd rub with the stock 235/45/17's at that offset, so best case to make those work I'd have to replace the tires and that blows my budget up. I was hoping to be able to just throw them on and get wheels + summer tires for the price of just replacing tires, but I don't think it's to be. So, I have a replacement OEM 17 inbound from RockAuto, and I need to start thinking about tires. I've been using GRM's feature on WRX wagon tuning as kind of a bible, and they ended up putting 225/45/17's on their OEM wheels when they went to summers, vs the 215/45/17's that are stock. Would going to 225's make any appreciable difference?
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Jan 8, 2012 18:46
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It did for me in my '06 wagon. I went from the 215/45/17 stock RE92s to 225/45/17 Hankook Ventus RS3 mounted on 17x7 UK17s last summer. It's not the world's best comparison because the OEM-spec RE92 is a really dismal tire (they get slimy with even a small amount of heat into the tire, and the sidewalls are weak). The wider RS3s made the car feel slightly more planted going straight with the stock damping and stock-like springs. Grip is way better under braking and acceleration, obviously, and mid-corner corrections were actually possible instead of just making the car plow, slide off the line and hit cones. I could run a lower tire pressure than I needed to with the RE92 as well, which made the car feel better but not in a way I can describe. They got even better with the upgraded suspension at the end of the summer. Some tires (like the aforementioned RS3) are only available in 225 as well, which is what precipitated my decision. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 18:57
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TWiNKiE posted:Why not get the 3.6R? The power distribution in the 3.6R is more sport-oriented, and the engine is within 10 HP and 10 ft-lb of the WRX. The stick shift is my one non-negotiable feature this round of car buying. The more I think about it, putting me in a WRX is just going to mean lots of speeding tickets and expensive tires. I can tack a bunch of lights and goofy crap onto the outback and really have fun without redlining every gear.
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Jan 8, 2012 23:13
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So Wrar and i spent the weekend taking my wagon to stage 2. Not too hard, but the bolts aq motorsports put on the up-pipe were about half an inch too long to let the dp attach to the turbo. WTF? We realized there was a problem when i went to put the gasket on for the turbo to dp and it wouldn't clear the bolts. We had to get in there with an angle grinder and dremel to cut the tops off these bolts. Pain. In. The. rear end. All done and all re-flashed. 3rd gear pull says 209HP and 238ft/lbs at the wheels with spooling starting around 2.5k. Sounds nice with a full 3" catless, now you can really hear the turbo spool
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Jan 9, 2012 00:30
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Safety Dance posted:The stick shift is my one non-negotiable feature this round of car buying.
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Jan 9, 2012 02:14
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I learned something valuable today: When the choice of parts is between a 30 dollar part and a 270 dollar part- buy the 270 dollar one, the 30 dollar one is a tease that will not work. Time to go order another throttle position sensor.
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Jan 9, 2012 05:11
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I've arranged to buy a 2000 2.0 Sport wagon. The seller has put some classic (5-spoke) turbo rims on it, which I gather should be 16x7. From a handling perspective, is there a consensus on the best wheel size to start with for a stock or mostly-stock chassis? Am I better off selling/swapping for the original NA cars' 15" (x6 or 6.5?) rims, or keeping the 16s? The NA EJ20 in the Sport-spec cars only makes 122-124 hp, so there is no loving way the 16x7 is needed for traction, but certain cars prefer certain sizes. E.g. my current E30 touring handles best on the factory sport option 15x7, no matter what engine is in it. I'd really like to ditch the 16s - it's a lot of extra money for rubber. I've been able to keep the BMW in 15" T1Rs and KU31s for £30-40 a corner - that would probably double for 16s.
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Jan 9, 2012 15:18
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I'd probably weigh both and keep whatever's lighter. These cars respond very poorly to unsprung weight.
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Jan 9, 2012 17:01
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depends what you're doing with the car. for on-road performance a 16x7 with a 225 will work a lot better than a 15x6 with high profile 195s. Plus those wheels give you room for wrx brakes. if you're rally-xing and daily driving and care more about comfort I guess just go with the cheaper, smaller wheels.
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Jan 9, 2012 19:23
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Saga posted:I've arranged to buy a 2000 2.0 Sport wagon. The seller has put some classic (5-spoke) turbo rims on it, which I gather should be 16x7. On my NA 2.5RS, I went from the stock 16x7s to 15x7s specifically due to tire choice and cost. I found it was easier and cheaper to find good 225s in 15". It also helps that that tire size is popular with miatas. Oh, and if you get the right 15x7s you can fit WRX (4/2 pot) brakes without an issue.
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Jan 9, 2012 20:17
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