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Both of those work for me, whoever can take the car as a whole at that level is my primary goal. Springs http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4922/101018-rear-overload-springs-wagon Front struts http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4952/100196-bilstein-hd-front-strut-200-models Rear shocks http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4953/100190-bilstein-hd-rear-shock-200-models strut bar http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7282/106019-upper-strut-brace-240 firewall strut bars http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5051/103611-gt-strut-braces Sways are compatible http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4856/100987-anti-sway-bar-kit-240-models On the IRS rear end... I dont know what all that will change, but the rear sway or rear shocks might be out in that case.
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Jan 5, 2012 20:25
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The bilstens dont fit cars with ABS, short of putting some water downa nd slamming on my brakes, how do i know what years of 240s have ABS?
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Jan 5, 2012 20:28
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Lord Gaga posted:The bilstens dont fit cars with ABS, short of putting some water downa nd slamming on my brakes, how do i know what years of 240s have ABS? Thats news to me, I have ABS on my 245SE and they fit just fine  EDIT: Look under the hood near the battery, it has a massive ABS pump. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jan 5, 2012 |
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Jan 5, 2012 20:30
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Huh, thats just what the website says. I have no idea. I am making my own suspension as "stage 2" of the car which is over a year away. Stage 1 is getting the motor and trans in and runnign and all the suspension will be volvo compatible (dont wanna say stock cause I wanna buy this stuff) until then. I am planning on doing the IRS conversion after I grenade the Dana 35.....though if I can put my center on 8.8 mustang tubes and just mock that up its not out of the question either. Anyway the volvo is still running and driving and is the backup to my WRX so might as well mod it now. Can always take stuff off later. Would you do everything for $300 shipped to 32839?
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Jan 5, 2012 20:36
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What is everything? Certain items at a point make it unfeasible to "junk" the car or get it towed away.
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Jan 5, 2012 20:38
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Bilstein HD shocks/struts Rear overload springs IPD strut bar IPD strut to firewall bars IPD 25/25mm sways you could still junk it without all of those things on it.
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Jan 5, 2012 20:41
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Lord Gaga posted:Bilstein HD shocks/struts Without shocks/springs it would be mighty damned slammed
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Jan 5, 2012 20:42
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Tracked down the latest death rattle in my 99 V70, turns out there are now no bolts holding the ac condenser to the front of the radiator. Ni biggy, except it looks like I need to take the front upper airdam off to get to most of the locations. Another lovely job in the middle of winter woo!
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Jan 5, 2012 20:43
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dietcokefiend posted:Without shocks/springs it would be mighty damned slammed Leave the front springs in and cut 2x4s to fit where the others are. put sheet metal through the upper shock tower to hold until it is on the truck.
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Jan 5, 2012 20:56
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Hey dietcokefiend, I'm also in Cincinnati. What's wrong with the 245 that prevents it from being drivable? Rust, neglect, or something else? If it's just the brakes that are problematic on an otherwise solid car, I'd be interested in looking at it if Lord Gaga hasn't already paid you to strip it. PM me here or email me at jk234906 at ohio dot edu.
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Jan 5, 2012 23:12
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Cakefool posted:Tracked down the latest death rattle in my 99 V70, turns out there are now no bolts holding the ac condenser to the front of the radiator. Ni biggy, except it looks like I need to take the front upper airdam off to get to most of the locations. Another lovely job in the middle of winter woo! I dont know if its exactly the same as in my 850 but if you take out the screws attaching the whole fan/radiator/condenser assembly to the front of the car you might be able to push it back and get to the screws that are otherwise unreachable. Might be necessary to take out the two main screws that hold in the radiator though. So im not sure whats easier... I just hab a wonderful drive home after my exhaust split open right at the catalytic converter. God what a sound when the exhaust stops unmuffled directly under your seat. My ears are still ringing. Lets hope i can jury rig something together tomorrow that works until i can afford to pay someone to weld it back together :/
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Jan 5, 2012 23:47
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Depends, do I need to take the front bumper off to get the airdam off? 
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Jan 5, 2012 23:52
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Cakefool posted:Tracked down the latest death rattle in my 99 V70, turns out there are now no bolts holding the ac condenser to the front of the radiator. Ni biggy, except it looks like I need to take the front upper airdam off to get to most of the locations. Another lovely job in the middle of winter woo! I think you can just pull the header panel up (6 bolts, 2 are a hassle) and Bob's your uncle, but not sure if that's on yours or the post-2000 v70.
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Jan 6, 2012 00:04
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Cakefool posted:Depends, do I need to take the front bumper off to get the airdam off? Sorry english isn't my first language so im not 100% sure what an airdam really is, but i changed the radiator on my 850 a couple of weeks ago and the only part of the body i had to take off was the plastic thing thats underneath the radiator. And thats only held in place by two screws and a couple of clips (i guess this might be the airdam?). The condenser is only attached by four screws to the radiator if i remember correctly. The two lower ones are easily reachable when you take of that plastic thing. The upper ones are the hard part. Like i said you might be able to get to those if you take of the screws that hold the fan and its frame to the radiator and the body. I was able to bend the whole thing back enough to get to the screws. But i also took out the two big screws that hold in the radiator. You can reach those from under the car easily. Just don't shear one clean off like i did. THAT was no fun.
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Jan 6, 2012 00:09
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Shai-Hulud posted:I just hab a wonderful drive home after my exhaust split open right at the catalytic converter. God what a sound when the exhaust stops unmuffled directly under your seat. My ears are still ringing. Lets hope i can jury rig something together tomorrow that works until i can afford to pay someone to weld it back together :/ Oh man, I had that happen to my 850 recently. The rear exhaust hangar had broken, so the wobbling with every bump eventually cracked it open. When I got it fixed, I had a bunch of other small repairs done that the previous owner had neglected... So I'm guessing the welding work was about $150-200. And then I bought a new exhaust for the hell of it.
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Jan 6, 2012 03:28
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Shai-Hulud posted:Sorry english isn't my first language so im not 100% sure what an airdam really is, but i changed the radiator on my 850 a couple of weeks ago and the only part of the body i had to take off was the plastic thing thats underneath the radiator. And thats only held in place by two screws and a couple of clips (i guess this might be the airdam?). The condenser is only attached by four screws to the radiator if i remember correctly. The two lower ones are easily reachable when you take of that plastic thing. The upper ones are the hard part. Like i said you might be able to get to those if you take of the screws that hold the fan and its frame to the radiator and the body. I was able to bend the whole thing back enough to get to the screws. But i also took out the two big screws that hold in the radiator. You can reach those from under the car easily. Just don't shear one clean off like i did. THAT was no fun. Thanks, thats very clear & useful. I'll grab done suitable bolts & have a go this weekend.
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Jan 6, 2012 11:16
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Shai-Hulud posted:Sorry english isn't my first language so im not 100% sure what an airdam really is, It's that spoiler under the bumper. What's it called in Swedish?
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Jan 6, 2012 11:19
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Groda posted:It's that spoiler under the bumper. What's it called in Swedish? Sorry, I'm referring to the massive plastic assembly across the front of the car, the first thing you see when you open the bonnet.
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Jan 6, 2012 11:24
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Cakefool posted:Sorry, I'm referring to the massive plastic assembly across the front of the car, the first thing you see when you open the bonnet. Header panel. e: this: 
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jan 6, 2012 |
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Jan 6, 2012 13:40
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Thats the one.
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Jan 6, 2012 13:55
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TheJeffers posted:Hey dietcokefiend, I'm also in Cincinnati. What's wrong with the 245 that prevents it from being drivable? Rust, neglect, or something else? If it's just the brakes that are problematic on an otherwise solid car, I'd be interested in looking at it if Lord Gaga hasn't already paid you to strip it. PM me here or email me at jk234906 at ohio dot edu. I haven't paid for the parts it and for $500 he wants for the whole car it sounds like itd be a smoking deal. Wouldnt be offended at all as other than the front shocks and sway bar I'd probably end up reworking most of the stuff or it may not fit once the motor goes in.
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Jan 6, 2012 17:14
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Cakefool: There should only be 2 bolts and 6 screws holding the bumper on, (and 2 plugs for fog lights, oh and 2 nuts on the headlight wiper arms if you have those) so it's not a horrible proposition to remove it anyway, and it makes visibility & access dramatically better. You shouldn't have to remove that header to do what you want to do. However, the radiator/condenser/intercooler is designed to drop out the bottom as a complete stacked assembly, so they made some of the bolts real hard to get to without removing the radiator, but it's possible if you take the 2 radiator mounting bolts loose so things can flop around.
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Jan 6, 2012 17:15
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Splizwarf posted:You can get it if you do OSD (Oversea Delivery Program, where you get $3000 off the sticker price, two round-trip plane tickets to Gothenburg, two nights in a hotel, and your car delivered to you right off the factory line, and available in 4 diesel flavors and the much wider range of Euro colors; they cover your insurance while you're there, you can drive it for however long you want, then return it to the factory so they can ship it to your local dealer in the US), which you should do if it's at all possible with your schedule. Everyone who's willing to buy new in the first place should take advantage of OSD, it's awesome. Jesus christ! How is this program real? Can you get the diesel options in the US? dietcokefiend posted:I need to part out a 91 245 SE pretty quick. Basically this car has been begging to go for a long time and its going to be easier parting some of the smaller items and donating the rest than selling the car as a whole (I think). Figured this Volvo thread might be a good place to start if anyone wants any of this. I'd be interested in the Bilsteins and springs if they haven't been taken already. I'm in Cleveland, OH.
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Jan 6, 2012 18:30
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It sounds like the car may be spoken for right now, under the condition that I think it is safe to make the trek back to where the buyer lives  I'll update you guys if this falls through, but for now consider the 245SE taken.
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Jan 6, 2012 18:44
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Sviatoslav posted:Jesus christ! How is this program real? Can you get the diesel options in the US? Not sure, but I think so. Ask them! I hope I'm right about the V50. 
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Jan 6, 2012 19:23
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dietcokefiend posted:It sounds like the car may be spoken for right now, under the condition that I think it is safe to make the trek back to where the buyer lives Fair enough. I'd still really like those parts if it does fall through.
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Jan 6, 2012 20:46
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Splizwarf posted:Not sure, but I think so. Ask them! I don't think you can get any non-US builds that way - the car still needs to meet US specs to be imported to the US.
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Jan 6, 2012 20:52
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rarbatrol posted:Oh man, I had that happen to my 850 recently. The rear exhaust hangar had broken, so the wobbling with every bump eventually cracked it open. When I got it fixed, I had a bunch of other small repairs done that the previous owner had neglected... So I'm guessing the welding work was about $150-200. I just brought the car to the shop and told them to fix it. I can't weld and even if i did i wouldn't have a place to do it. Costs me 300€ to get everything behind the catalytic converter new and shiny. Wasn't exactly in this months budget but paying a lot of fines because my car sound like hell is approaching isn't either.
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Jan 6, 2012 21:40
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Splizwarf posted:Not sure, but I think so. Ask them! That sounds awesome but do they cover shipping? If you have to containerize it you're looking at at least $3000 to bring it to the states. Plus you would probably responsible for duties and customs clearance.
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Jan 7, 2012 04:36
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Anyone got a good source for the gas struts that hold the trunk open? I've got a 68 142S for any Volvo nuts that haven't checked my project thread, are there multiple year crossovers for that? I'd imagine there'd be no way that could possibly be a limited run part.
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Jan 7, 2012 06:14
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You sure they're gas? My 240 had giant rear end springs in there. Also, Doctor Dick!
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Jan 7, 2012 06:17
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For sure I've got gas struts under there, I was looking at them this afternoon. No signs of springs. I could get a picture of them tomorrow morning, my hope was maybe a 240 shared the design  Sounds like thats a no.
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Jan 7, 2012 06:21
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I think it's a yes. Here's the one from 89-93, I couldn't find the older one but I bet it's the same only a little stronger. http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocat...playCatalogid=0 Tasca is a reliable source and has the best online pricing for OEM parts.
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Jan 7, 2012 06:32
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Augmented Dickey posted:That sounds awesome but do they cover shipping? If you have to containerize it you're looking at at least $3000 to bring it to the states. Plus you would probably responsible for duties and customs clearance. As I understand it, they ship it to your local dealer like a normal delivery, it doesn't cost you anything. That's why you have to pick it up at a dealer instead of a dock or home-delivery.
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Jan 7, 2012 21:29
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Splizwarf posted:As I understand it, they ship it to your local dealer like a normal delivery, it doesn't cost you anything. That's why you have to pick it up at a dealer instead of a dock or home-delivery. Oh, well that's pretty nifty then.
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Jan 8, 2012 16:22
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So, hey guys! Guess what? I have a 245. Its blue with a black hood. Here it is next to its sister, my DD 855... which is black with a blue hood...  One night, for the benefit of the 245 I slammed my 855...  Lowering springs? Hacked coils? HA! I got something better!  Those with an eye for detail will notice that there is a 302 and some turbo poo poo and some bitching heads and a whole bunch of other poo poo needed to put a 5.0L V8 into a 30 yearold station wagon. I drove from Dayton, Oh to Cleveland, Oh with my poor poor 855's rear end dragging on the ground. I've been pretty busy lately with the project. As it sits now it looks like this.  The 302 (yes I'm using a Swedish flag as an engine cover  ) The turbo poo poo  There is obviously a lot more poo poo going on. Last night I almost hung myself with the wiring harness because at the moment it seemed like an easier way out... it still sort of seems that way. Sviatoslav fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 19:09
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That's a fuckoff enormous turbo from a Volvo owner's perspective. Continue.
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Jan 8, 2012 19:59
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Yeah the turbo on my tdi looks like a tiny rusty snail, hunkering down behind the engine in shame compared to that.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:49
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My original plan was to make it into an autox or rallyx car with the b23 and in a 15min phone call it developed into this stupid project that I'm not too sure what to do with besides finish it... I'm figuring this all out as I go along. The turbo is a t6 with some goofy air research intake side.
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Jan 8, 2012 23:42
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Just finished up replacing my PCV system on my 1999 Volvo V70XC. First sumbitch with a Swedish sounding name I run across tonight I may kill on principle. Anyone contemplating this, I have some suggestions. Forget moving the alternator or A/C compressor, you don't need to. I removed the fuel rail because I was redoing all of the wiring wrap stuff that had just turned to dust. You don't really need to. The small bit of flexible fuel line between the hard lines is 1/4" I.D., even though it looks bigger. Lay in some copper washers for the banjo bolts. You will drop these. They cannot be picked up by magnetic pickups. You will swear a lot. If I had it to do over again, I would not remove the lower intake bolts completely and slide the intake up and over. I did remove the T-stat cover and the coolant sensor to get at the lower passenger side intake bolt with a 1/4 drive, extensions and u joint. I used a trick of wrapping part of a wire bread wrapper over the bolt and tied it to the U-joint after dropping bolts into the engine bay enough times to make me lose my religion. Oetiker clamps are supposed to get clipped off with a sharp pair of wire cutters (or an Oetiker tool specifically designed for installing and removing) - clip off the clamped head and it just comes off. I tried to use a pair of tile nibblers, didn't work as it was too big. An Oetiker tool will be purchased at some point in the future, but I am unsure it would be any better than "picking" them off. Anyone actually use Oetikers have any input? All in all about a seven hour miserable job in between drizzle and rain, but I want to get the thing to Stage 0 and it was a job that was in the way. I haven't done an autopsy on the old trap yet, but the lower port was almost completely blocked with crud as was the other port into the engine block (not the head). By the way, when cleaning those out, they seemed not to go through and into the block, is this right or did I miss something? I got the crud out and definitely hit metal. I just assume this is just to let the heavy stuff maybe burn off by contact with the block?
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Jan 9, 2012 00:56
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