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nwin posted:I am installing this ramp in the pool that requires me to drill 2 holes in either the brick or grout surrounding the pool that are 1/4" diameter each, 1 1/2" deep. My cordless drill just sucks at this...it got maybe 1/8" deep and the masonry bit was hot as could be and the battery was wearing down. I'm guessing I need a corded drill, but is this something I can rent from home depot maybe? All I'm seeing there are 1/2" hammer drills which I don't think the chuck will close enough to use my 1/4" masonry bit as the website says allows for drilling 1/2" or bigger... I picked up an inexpensive 1/2" VSR hammer drill (combo drill, where you can turn the hammer off) a couple years back and found it worked great for general wood drilling and hole saws and small masonry bits (up to about 1/2"), but it just didn't have power to drill deep 3/4" or larger holes in high-psi concrete. One of my contractors loaned me his hoss of a hammer drill for a few days once for a project- motherfucker looked and felt like a jackhammer, but MAN, what a difference! grover fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 18:20
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nwin posted:ok so I can rent a 1/2" hammer drill and be able to fit a masonry bit in there that will drill a 1/4" hole? If that's the case, home depot is right around the corner and should work. Thanks! I would also check to make sure that the hammer drill will accommodate the masonry bit you already have. Many hammerdrills accept a SDS- Plus type bit http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202579274/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053. They require an adapter if you are using a standard masonry drill bit. (like a keyless, or jacobs-style chuck.
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Jan 8, 2012 20:23
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The Noble Nobbler posted:Photosensor or switched electronically in some way? Some circuits kill ballasts on cfls Not that I can find. It's operated by a plain old switch in the front hall.
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Jan 8, 2012 20:38
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I'm working on cleaning up a guitar amp that hasn't been used in a long time. I'm making good progress cleaning all the dirt off the rough texture, but all the chrome bits on the exteriors are slightly rusty, like so.  DSC_1147 (2).jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr Anyone have a good way of cleaning that sort of rust? I'm thinking maybe some oil + light steel wool, but I'm just looking for other ideas while I restore the rest of the amp.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:34
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NickNails posted:I would take each outlet/switch cover off and try measuring with the non-contact tester. There's got to be a break or a loose connection somewhere, most likely where the wire connects to something. This is right. Check every device, including ceiling fans. And go get a contact tester since you'll need to be a little more certain than a non-contact tester, they're like $2. Start from the panel again. Make sure the suspect breaker is turned on, then test for a circuit between its hot terminal screw and the nearest busbar. Mr. Despair posted:I'm working on cleaning up a guitar amp that hasn't been used in a long time. I'm making good progress cleaning all the dirt off the rough texture, but all the chrome bits on the exteriors are slightly rusty, like so. Rust is rust. That means that water made it past the chrome plating and pitted the iron in the steel. Using steel wool would just remove the chrome around the rust further. If you really want to restore it, have those pieces rechromed. I would just get new chromed screws for the fasteners. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 22:38
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kid sinister posted:Rust is rust. That means that water made it past the chrome plating and pitted the iron in the steel. Using steel wool would just remove the chrome around the rust further. If you really want to restore it, have those pieces rechromed. I would just get new chromed screws for the fasteners. That makes sense, I'll probably just leave them be for now and make sure to try and keep it clean so that it doesn't get worse. 
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Jan 8, 2012 22:58
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If you want to clean up what's there, get some Flitz--that stuff will at least get the rust off, and will polish what's left.
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Jan 9, 2012 00:09
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Should I be pressurizing the old bladder-less expansion tank on my furnace when I drain it or is it sufficient to just drain it completely? I've had to drain it a few times in the past year but I never emptied it completely, so I'm taking the time to do that now and hoping it will fix it. Is draining it part of routine maintenance? if so, how often should I do it? I checked a few DIY and home repair forums and the few discussions of old tanks were a bunch of idiots slapfighting ("air does not dissolve in water, I suggest you all do some research and edit your posts") and nobody really gave a clear answer.
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Jan 9, 2012 03:07
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kid sinister posted:This is right. Check every device, including ceiling fans. And go get a contact tester since you'll need to be a little more certain than a non-contact tester, they're like $2. Start from the panel again. Make sure the suspect breaker is turned on, then test for a circuit between its hot terminal screw and the nearest busbar. We finally figured it out. There was an outlet on the wall in the room next to the study that was apparently feeding the outlets and light in the study, and the hot wire coming out of that outlet into the study was loose. The outlet in the other room worked so I didn't think to look at it harder, but once the screw was cranked down to give a decent connection everything turned back on. At least now I know how to replace a circuit breaker  However, since the study apparently isn't on a different circuit, I still don't know what that breaker controls. The hot wire coming out of that one goes down coming out of the box while everything else goes up, so who knows. That will be a problem for a different day. Thanks for the help, guys!
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Jan 9, 2012 17:39
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I'm planning on making a floor out of unused circuit boards. The substrate is concrete and I want to have a clear coating over top of the boards to fill in all the little holes and make the surface smooth, as well as protect the boards from scuffs and such. What should I use to attach them to the floor and coat them? Epoxy? Polyurethane? It's a roughly 7'x8' floor area and I'd like to keep costs as low as possible. If they're too high I'll have to just do something boring like paint the floor.
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Jan 9, 2012 17:57
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Hillridge posted:I'm planning on making a floor out of unused circuit boards. The substrate is concrete and I want to have a clear coating over top of the boards to fill in all the little holes and make the surface smooth, as well as protect the boards from scuffs and such. What should I use to attach them to the floor and coat them? Epoxy? Polyurethane? It's a roughly 7'x8' floor area and I'd like to keep costs as low as possible. If they're too high I'll have to just do something boring like paint the floor. Not sure the best answer, but beware with polyurethane that it yellows over time (from exposure to UV IIRC). Though maybe there's special mixes with additives and such that don't do this.
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Jan 9, 2012 18:25
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I found this and am waiting for a call back from the company: http://www.epoxysystems.com/402.aspx
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Jan 9, 2012 19:26
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Ugh, this loving rental...let's just say I'm glad I'm not buying it. The front door has some gaps in it...mainly on the top and a bit on the sides where the door jamb is. I fixed the ones on the side mainly with some weatherstripping, but the door almost looks slanted at the top as it goes towards the door jamb...for about 3" of it it's open by maybe a 1/2". I tried putting some weatherstripping on, but it's not closing it completely, and worse is the fact that the more weatherstripping I cram up on it, the harder it is to get the door to close completely... Any ideas?
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Jan 10, 2012 17:31
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Extra big-rear end door sweep on the top instead of the bottom?
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Jan 10, 2012 18:24
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nwin posted:Ugh, this loving rental...let's just say I'm glad I'm not buying it. shim and/or chisel the hinges until the door hangs right.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:10
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peepsalot posted:shim and/or chisel the hinges until the door hangs right. Do this. Flat, non-corrugated cardboard is perfect for this. Once you cut one to fit, you can easily use it as a template to make more. There's just one problem: if you shim a hinge out too much, either the door's latch edge will rub the frame at the top or bottom, or the latch will no longer catch. How about a picture?
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Jan 11, 2012 00:35
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kid sinister posted:either the door's latch edge will rub the frame at the top or bottom, or the latch will no longer catch.
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Jan 11, 2012 00:57
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Is there a timing device that fits inline with a light bulb and the socket? And works? The couple on Amazon have lovely reviews.
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Jan 11, 2012 03:33
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The Human Cow posted:I still don't know what that breaker controls. The hot wire coming out of that one goes down coming out of the box while everything else goes up, so who knows. That will be a problem for a different day. Thanks for the help, guys! Leave it off, see who complains/what stops working.
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Jan 11, 2012 13:27
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Here's the pictures of the door in question... Bottom of the door:  Top portion of the door going towards the non-hinging side, you can see the weatherstripping I put on the top in these next two pictures...not really working that well and I got the thick stuff...  Overall top of the door.  overall picture of the door:  Edit: It seems like looking from the picture I should place some shims in the bottom right part of the door, right? It looks like the door is tilted overall a bit counterclockwise of how it should be sitting. Let me know if any other pictures would help and I'll get em on here. nwin fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 17:14
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nwin posted:Here's the pictures of the door in question... Definitely shim out the bottom hinge, you got the right idea. If you do it with flat cardboard, I'm guessing you'll need like 6 or 7. Put them on the frame side of the hinge so they're less noticeable. Make sure all of the hinge screws are tight against the door and frame.
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Jan 11, 2012 18:40
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kid sinister posted:Definitely shim out the bottom hinge, you got the right idea. If you do it with flat cardboard, I'm guessing you'll need like 6 or 7. Put them on the frame side of the hinge so they're less noticeable. Make sure all of the hinge screws are tight against the door and frame. I had to leave the house for a bit, but messed around with it for just a bit. I put about four pieces of cardboard right below the bottom hinge and that seems to have helped things a bit. I can't go too much more since that lock that goes across the door is starting to rub since its getting raised a bit. There is definitely some difference on the jamb side of the door and the top has closed a bit, so that's good. Unfortunately, the bottom of the door is starting to open up a bit, so I might have to look into one of those ottom door gap things mentioned earlier.
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Jan 11, 2012 19:00
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PorkFat posted:Is there a timing device that fits inline with a light bulb and the socket? And works? The couple on Amazon have lovely reviews. No sure about that, but there's lots of timers integrated into light switches if that would work for you. I use one for my front porch light and it rules.
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Jan 11, 2012 19:39
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peepsalot posted:No sure about that, but there's lots of timers integrated into light switches if that would work for you. I use one for my front porch light and it rules. Which one do you use? They have a mechanical version for about $10 looks similar to what I use for christmas lights, but the $30 electronic ones look way nicer. grover fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 20:10
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Every out tdoor light in my house is on one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EJ351C-Programmable-Mechanical-Security/dp/B000Q9YUGU/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1326309308&sr=1-6 But those digital Honeywell ones look super tempting.
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Jan 11, 2012 20:15
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That is pretty neat, I may get one of those myself. We have a light on the side of the house that we pretty much leave on 24/7. We like to have it on at night, but we generally forget to shut it off in the morning.
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Jan 11, 2012 20:21
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nwin posted:I had to leave the house for a bit, but messed around with it for just a bit. I put about four pieces of cardboard right below the bottom hinge and that seems to have helped things a bit. I can't go too much more since that lock that goes across the door is starting to rub since its getting raised a bit. If you want to do a perfect job, you'll have to remount the door-mounted part of that lock and put a new door sweep across the bottom. Gaps at the bottom are easier to fix than gaps at the top, which is why we wanted you to shim out the bottom hinge. Just for shits and grins, take off one side of that lock and see how many shims it would take to make your door close right at the top. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 20:34
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grover posted:Which one do you use? They have a mechanical version for about $10 looks similar to what I use for christmas lights, but the $30 electronic ones look way nicer. I've got one of the digital ones. I think it's a honeywell, but looks slightly different from those listed. Has a LCD clock on top, and push button switch/flap that covers the setttings buttons. I can check when I get home. It may be an older discontinued model revision. Only problem with it is that after 4 years or so, the little hinged flap that covers the settings buttons broke off. Not that big of a deal, still works fine. I think I picked mine up at home depot or lowes, pretty sure most of those stores carry those if you don't want to wait for shipping from amazon. Edit: Actually, i think this may be the one I have http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-ST01C-White-Adjusting-Switch/dp/B000QD9QLA/ref=sr_1_21?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1326310955&sr=1-21 peepsalot fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 20:40
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grover posted:Oh wow, I've got to get me some of those! Doing some quick math, I think installing these on my exterior lights will save me about $20/year in electrical bills; should pay for itself in about a year and a half. You will be amazed how noisy the mechanical version will become in 6 months time. Seriously, spend the extra money on the digital version.
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Jan 11, 2012 22:24
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Do you really have the mechanical one anywhere you can hear it on a regular basis? I have one in my front hall and another in my kitchen, and you can pretty much only hear them if you're right next to them.
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Jan 11, 2012 22:27
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I could hear the bastard upstairs in bed when we had one. It carries through the structure of the house. Maddening. There's a really easy fake Edgar Allen Poe reference waiting to be thrown in here but I got nothing.
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Jan 11, 2012 22:31
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By the way the digital ones still use a mechanical relay which you can hear click when it turns on or off. never really bothered me though.
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Jan 11, 2012 23:01
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The one I linked to you can't hear at all, but if you're installing a new one I don't see why you wouldn't get a digital one with a battery backup.
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Jan 12, 2012 01:44
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Regarding shims on the door hinge...I'm sure this is a stupid question, but when I'm putting my shims in, they obviously stay when the door is closed or a bit open, but the more I open the door, the wider the opening gets where the shims are at and then they slip out. Am I supposed to unscrew the hinge itself from the frame side and put the shims in there and *THEN* screw the hinge back on the door frame? ...I think I just answered my own question. Edit: Yep, quick googling showed me I was being a dumbass. I figure I'll just leave this up for posterity. Thanks! nwin fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 15:35
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peepsalot posted:By the way the digital ones still use a mechanical relay which you can hear click when it turns on or off. never really bothered me though. I expect to hear a click when a light or socket is turned on, the mechanical timers sound like a cement mixer full of broken toys all the time Okay, not that bad but if you have the choice get digital.
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Jan 12, 2012 19:38
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I'm ordering some actual shims because all the cardboard I had was corrugated and Home depot/Lowes didn't have any that would go in the hinge, just the wedge shaped shims that would do the same thing I was doing earlier and would just fall out. Anyways, those should be here in two days. For the door sweep, it looks like the one currently on there looks something like this: http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-43816-Replacement/dp/B0010OH8DC/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1326401734&sr=8-33 versus what I was going to get, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Aluminum-Residential-Automatic-Sweep/dp/B000KZV1X0/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1326401925&sr=8-19 which would only cover one side of the door. Is either one better to go with? Sorry, I just obviously have zero experience in this so I don't want to buy the wrong one. As far as me drilling into the brick, I found my local Home Depot wants to charge around 40 bucks for a four hour rental of a 1/2" rotary hammer drill, which is the smallest they had. If I'm going to pay 40 bucks for something to drill two holes with, I'd rather see if I can spend a little bit more for something that I can own outright that I'll be able to use down the road or for other projects. Can anyone point me in the right direction or are these all gonna be way out of my price range? I'm guessing a stronger 3'8" corded drill wouldn't do the job? Or would it? I'm drilling two 1/4" holes about 1.5" deep.
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Jan 12, 2012 22:02
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Do you have a drill at all? Just get some masonry bits. I've drilled bigger holes than that in brick with a 19.2 V cordless drill. Also you didn't have a cereal box or something you could cut up to make cardboard shims for your door?
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Jan 13, 2012 14:32
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What are the best places to buy bulk quantities of things like Great Stuff foam and caulk? I need 20-30 cans/tubes of them both and the only places I am aware of for them is going to Home Depot or Lowes and buying a contractor pack of them.
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Jan 13, 2012 15:02
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Cosmik Debris posted:Do you have a drill at all? Just get some masonry bits. I've drilled bigger holes than that in brick with a 19.2 V cordless drill. This. I drilled tile with my cordless 18v dewalt to install a mirror in my bathroom. Just go slow and squirt some water as you go. Any cordless should be fine.
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Jan 13, 2012 15:27
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nesbit37 posted:What are the best places to buy bulk quantities of things like Great Stuff foam and caulk? I need 20-30 cans/tubes of them both and the only places I am aware of for them is going to Home Depot or Lowes and buying a contractor pack of them. That's quite a few cans. Are you insulating a wall? Depending on what you're doing, it may be easier and a lot cheaper to just buy the liquids and mix them, assuming you don't need to spray the foam in place. Just picking a website at random, here's one that sells 40 cubic feet worth of 2 pound expanding foam for 256 dollars: http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
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Jan 13, 2012 16:49
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