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I'm on the hunt for a new daily driver and I've started looking at Audi since I can never seem to keep my usual Evo or STi purchase for longer than a year out of boredom, or usually hating the squeaks and rattles that come from $35,000 cars with $14,000 car interiors . So maybe going up market will allow me to keep it around longer, or whatever. So I have a couple questions... I'm looking at 08+ A4 quattro 2.0T 6 speed S-Lines. They are extremely rare birds. What I really want is an S4, but I just can't justify spending $40k+ for a car with 45k miles and no warranty. But I do really like the S4's alcantara/leather seats and want that in my A4. There is an A4 Avant S-Line in my parking complex that has the alcantara seats that I want, so I know they were an option somehow, but every A4 S-Line that I see for sale just has the normal leather seats. Does anyone know if these seats were somehow an option on S-Line cars, or did this person swap interiors with an S4? I can't seem to find the information anywhere online since it's a rather specific question. Seats in question:  Also, the A4 is a little down on power for my taste, so I plan on some light mods just to get it up to snuff. I'm sure ECU flashing has been covered to death in this thread, but is it reasonable to run a flashed ECU with mild supporting mods and still have a reliable daily driver? I've never owned a german car before, and VW/Audi has always had a touchy reputation in terms of reliability with friends who've owned them, so I am generally a little hesitant to jump into a 4 year old car and modify it expecting it to be reliable. Those friend's experiences were with the 1.8 engine though, so I am hoping the 2.0 has a better reputation.
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Jan 7, 2012 03:08
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I have a '99 mark IV and the central locking has started to act up. One morning the key didn't turn properly on the driver's side door lock: It felt really stiff and weird, and it was impossible to get the key out without locking the doors again. I've resorted to opening the doors from the passenger side lock, but obviously it's a bit annoying. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Is it the result of a botched theft attempt or something with the central locking system itself? Apologies if this has been asked earlier and/or should go in another thread.
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Jan 7, 2012 10:26
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BoostCreep posted:Seats were probably swapped. ECU reprogramming is pretty much a no-brainer for the 2.0T. A good bit of power and a ton of torque added with no downside. Works even better when paired with a turbo-back exhaust.
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Jan 7, 2012 12:46
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EVERYWHERE 
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BoostCreep posted:But I do really like the S4's alcantara/leather seats and want that in my A4. There is an A4 Avant S-Line in my parking complex that has the alcantara seats that I want, so I know they were an option somehow, but every A4 S-Line that I see for sale just has the normal leather seats. Does anyone know if these seats were somehow an option on S-Line cars, or did this person swap interiors with an S4? I can't seem to find the information anywhere online since it's a rather specific question. I googled for old A4 brochures and confirmed that B8 A4 S-lines could be had with perforated Alcantara, which is not quite the same as the Alcantara in the S4. See page 14 of http://microsites.audiusa.com/my09/pdf/2009_Audi_A4.pdf .
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Jan 7, 2012 14:52
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BoostCreep posted:I'm looking at 08+ A4 quattro 2.0T 6 speed S-Lines. They are extremely rare birds. I recently purchased an 08 (B7) A4 6mt quattro. The 2.0T has some well documented common issues, most of which Audi has stepped up to, that you can find in the 2.0T megathread. Namely the PCV, cam follower on the high pressure fuel pump, and the diverter valve. There is an inexpensive fix for all of them. The HPFP cam follower is apparently an easily serviced part in your garage as well, but I have not done it yet. The 08 has a timing belt from what I can tell which requires removal of the entire front end of the car. Mine has had a number of ancillary things replaced all under warranty. Mostly chintzy poo poo I didn't even care about except they said it would be free so why the gently caress not. I bought it with a CPO warranty giving me another 3 years and 60k of warranty remaining from the date of purchase. B7s have less torque than B8s stock, but pick your tune and you are going to be in the same place. I got out of an S2000 and into this car as a more comfortable driver for my long work commute. I got along alright on stock power, but treated myself to an early Christmas present and took it over to Chris at Revo Technik and had it chipped. It is certainly a different beast now. People have been running stage 1 and stage 2 as daily drivers without any issues, provided the DV was swapped for the newest piston style, and the PCV is clean and functioning. Stage 2 really only requires a high flow cat or test pipe. Some recommend you have a turbo back exhaust and rebuild the HPFP, but many people, from what I have read, do not. Also the ignition coils are known failure points, but they are A) cheap to have a spare of, and B) the dealership replaces them with as much fanfare as an air freshner at a car wash. If you are really into tuning and general engine knowledge, the VAG-COM can be fun as well as useful for data logging etc...
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Jan 7, 2012 15:58
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You don't even need a turboback, just 3" downpipe for stage 2 flashes.
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Jan 7, 2012 19:57
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timb posted:You don't even need a turboback, just 3" downpipe for stage 2 flashes. That was my understanding as well, the stock exhaust apparently flows quite well after the cat so an aftermarket exhaust is more for noise and looks than anything else.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:34
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Got my allroad back with a new alternator and brakes. One problem now is that the headlight washer pump is leaking, so I need to get a new one, but I can't quite figure out which part it is. I'm not sure what exactly to buy: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-All_Road--2.7T/Exterior/Wiper/ES3380/ I think that is it, but I'm not sure if that's the pump at the headlight or the pump on the tank itself.
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Jan 8, 2012 00:18
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Fire Safety Doug posted:I have a '99 mark IV and the central locking has started to act up. One morning the key didn't turn properly on the driver's side door lock: It felt really stiff and weird, and it was impossible to get the key out without locking the doors again. I've resorted to opening the doors from the passenger side lock, but obviously it's a bit annoying. Odds are the lock cylinder in the door is starting to seize up (common enough problem)and and it will require replacement.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:04
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my1999gsr posted:Odds are the lock cylinder in the door is starting to seize up (common enough problem)and and it will require replacement. Thanks. I'll look into it.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:30
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timb posted:You don't even need a turboback, just 3" downpipe for stage 2 flashes. How much does this affect the sound? I'd like to remain as close to stock sounding as possible.
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Jan 9, 2012 16:06
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Q7 loaner, I feel like such a soccer mom  Was hoping for a newer A4 to see what 5-6 years has done for the model.
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Jan 9, 2012 17:07
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Just passed emissions  HC 110, Limit 111 CO .16%, Limit .59% NOX 163, Limit 1296 So it was either the 02 sensor or EGR passages or both. Also no check engine light on a MK3, amazing I know. Brake pad light is just a jumper wire that must have fell out and I'll fix it when I change the fluid this week. 
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Jan 9, 2012 17:19
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2006 Jetta 2.0T None of my steering wheel controls (radio volume etc.) are working, nor is the horn and I'm getting notice of an airbag fault. My headlights constantly flicker. Occassionally, when I go to start the car, all the electronics will die and the car won't start. If I wait a second it will start fine, but the clock will have reset. Obviously it's an electrical issue, but I have no idea what. I have changed the battery in the last year. Any ideas?
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Jan 9, 2012 18:45
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zoux posted:2006 Jetta 2.0T Is the headlight switch on a stalk on the steering column? It sounds like a loose ground or connector for everything in the column if so. Check to make sure those battery cables are tight too.
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Jan 9, 2012 18:49
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Billy Tully posted:Is the headlight switch on a stalk on the steering column? It sounds like a loose ground or connector for everything in the column if so. Check to make sure those battery cables are tight too. It's on a stalk. I should mention that the horn is functional, as in it sounds when I lock my car or if I accidentally push the panic button on my keyfob.
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Jan 9, 2012 19:01
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zoux posted:It's on a stalk. I should mention that the horn is functional, as in it sounds when I lock my car or if I accidentally push the panic button on my keyfob. Yea you probably have something going on in the column. I couldn't say for sure since I've never worked on a VW that new but I would take a look to see if there is a loose connection. Its probably under the dash right where the wiring comes out of the column. The other guess would be ignition switch but I don't think that would affect the air bag. But check the battery connections first. Losing all power when cranking the engine is a classic sign of a just barely working battery cable or ground connection somewhere.
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Jan 9, 2012 19:16
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SENSORS YAY! Mk4 Golf GTI. Handbrake light is always-on on the dash. I've replaced the handbrake sensor switch with junkyard parts, I can hear what sounds like a solenoid closing under the dash when I depress the switch, but the light stays on. Same car, oil pressure indicator. Despite the fact I know the car has an oil pressure sensor and that the oil pressure is good, the oil pressure indicator light is always on (and the annoying beeping alarm, as well). Any ideas?
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Jan 9, 2012 19:27
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Billy Tully posted:Yea you probably have something going on in the column. I couldn't say for sure since I've never worked on a VW that new but I would take a look to see if there is a loose connection. Its probably under the dash right where the wiring comes out of the column. I'll check that stuff when I get home, but if it's anything more complicated than just plugging something back in, I'll need to put it in the shop. Assuming it's a bad ground or a wire that needs to be replaced, any idea how much something like that would run?
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Jan 9, 2012 19:28
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Sigma X posted:SENSORS YAY! Have you checked the brake fluid level? That will turn that light on also. For the oil pressure I can only think that it may be disconnected or the sensor is bad. How sure are you that there is pressure or has it been like that longer than the engine would have lasted with no oil pressure? zoux posted:I'll check that stuff when I get home, but if it's anything more complicated than just plugging something back in, I'll need to put it in the shop. Assuming it's a bad ground or a wire that needs to be replaced, any idea how much something like that would run? I couldn't say, there is a lot of variables.
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Jan 9, 2012 19:36
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Billy Tully posted:Have you checked the brake fluid level? That will turn that light on also. For the oil pressure I can only think that it may be disconnected or the sensor is bad. How sure are you that there is pressure or has it been like that longer than the engine would have lasted with no oil pressure? Brake fluid level is fine. The oil pressure indicator has been on literally for 4+ years, long since before I bought it. The vehicle is modified and the PO was very attentive to detail and anal in some areas but is really weak in electrical work. When the sensor for the oil press. went out he verified he still had good oil pressure, tried swapping the sensor, and then just said "gently caress it, I've got to get back to replacing the engine mounts for the 8th time because I think they're 1/10th of a mm off." code:The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jan 9, 2012 |
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Jan 9, 2012 19:54
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Jesus, that thing must haul rear end. I'm not sure about the lights other than a break in the wire somewhere or its just another bad sensor. Putting a bad part in that you think is good because its new can mess you up good sometimes. One of my friends spent a year chasing an idle problem with his Mustang when the first thing he did was put in a new but broken IAC. Sigma X posted:I've got to get back to replacing the engine mounts for the 8th time because I think they're 1/10th of a mm off." This is me
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Jan 9, 2012 20:08
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Kashwashwa posted:How much does this affect the sound? I'd like to remain as close to stock sounding as possible. It won't. The downpipe connects the turbo to the resonator and muffler. Watch out for cheap eBay downpipes that don't have a catalytic converter on them. You'll fail emissions (where applicable) and you'll make everyone behind you want to kill you. I guess global warming or whatever too.
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Jan 9, 2012 22:46
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Does anyone have feedback on or first-hand knowledge of VCDS (VAG-COM)? I have a VW, my dad has a VW, and my friend has an Audi and we're thinking about picking up a copy for all of us to use. Is it worth the cost to those of you who have experience with it?
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Jan 10, 2012 00:48
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Hummer Driving human being posted:Does anyone have feedback on or first-hand knowledge of VCDS (VAG-COM)? I have a VW, my dad has a VW, and my friend has an Audi and we're thinking about picking up a copy for all of us to use. Is it worth the cost to those of you who have experience with it? I've been using the free version of VCDS-Lite and it's been pretty drat useful. I don't know if the paid versions would have been worth the cost since the free version has done everything I needed so far.
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Jan 10, 2012 04:49
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A friend has it, and it helped check and clear an engine code I threw(running too lean due to cold weather, ram air intake, and chip). Its not enough to justify for 1 car, but if you guys have 2+ its worth it for the ease of mind when that little engine light goes on.
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Jan 10, 2012 04:53
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BoostCreep posted:I'm on the hunt for a new daily driver and I've started looking at Audi since I can never seem to keep my usual Evo or STi purchase for longer than a year out of boredom, or usually hating the squeaks and rattles that come from $35,000 cars with $14,000 car interiors . So maybe going up market will allow me to keep it around longer, or whatever. So I have a couple questions... I will be doing nothing to help answer your question here, but what I will say is that I drove the A4 when I was looking to get rid of my '11 STI and I was not at all pleased with the power, and I don't think any chip will resolve that issue. Given that you can't keep an Evo or an STI for more than a year without getting bored how do you think the A4 would fare? I ended up with a 2012 S4 and I couldn't be happier frankly. It has the power of my STI plus all the comfort, features, and quality that I desired. The stock power is fantastic, and with Stage 1 and 2 available I know that this should keep my interest for some time to come. What's my point? Go on, spoil yourself, you deserve an S4  . Besides, I bet you could find a CPO lease return in the mid-40's.  P.S. Those seats in the picture are not the S4 seats, those are the S-Line seats. These are the S4 seats (shown here will full Silk nappa leather): 
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Jan 10, 2012 05:06
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Hummer Driving human being posted:Does anyone have feedback on or first-hand knowledge of VCDS (VAG-COM)? I have a VW, my dad has a VW, and my friend has an Audi and we're thinking about picking up a copy for all of us to use. Is it worth the cost to those of you who have experience with it? Yes, yes, yes, yes.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:41
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BoostCreep posted:I'm on the hunt for a new daily driver and I've started looking at Audi since I can never seem to keep my usual Evo or STi purchase for longer than a year out of boredom, or usually hating the squeaks and rattles that come from $35,000 cars with $14,000 car interiors . So maybe going up market will allow me to keep it around longer, or whatever. So I have a couple questions... These are beautiful cars. Even the choked down euro 180hp 2.0 TFSI puts out around 270hp with just a good program("chip") and more with a good turbo-back exhaust. I particularly like the range of the engine and the effortless feeling. It comes on boost early and pulls well in cruising gears. Don't kid yourself; it's not going to match an angry Evo or STI. And even if a lightly modded S4 could keep up, they are a completely different thing. If a modded STI can't keep you entertained I'm afraid an A4 is a step in the wrong direction. How about a 996 GT3?
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Jan 10, 2012 13:41
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Just get a GT-R and fly around at rocket speeds. You won't even have time to notice the interior before you wrap it around a tree.
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Jan 10, 2012 16:35
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So I'm told my engine is destroyed because one of the spark plugs broke and a small piece of metal fell into my engine and is pinging around. The dealer didn't know what to tell me and I'm in a little bit of shock. Could that have happened when they changed the plug? How would I even prove that? EDIT: God I need someone to talk to because I feel like I'm going to slug someone at work
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Jan 10, 2012 18:43
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allonblack posted:I will be doing nothing to help answer your question here, but what I will say is that I drove the A4 when I was looking to get rid of my '11 STI and I was not at all pleased with the power, and I don't think any chip will resolve that issue. Given that you can't keep an Evo or an STI for more than a year without getting bored how do you think the A4 would fare? You can also get those seats in the S4, but only on the base, not the premium model. I actually kind of prefer the alcantara/leather vs the full silk nappa. I have to say I love my A4, but I'm wishing I had gotten the S4 instead. The A4 was still a huge step up from what I was driving before, but I'm missing not having more power now that I've gotten used to it. Debating to trade up for an S4 or just chip the A4 and wait it out until the full redesign for the A4/S4 happens in a couple of years.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:27
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LorneReams posted:So I'm told my engine is destroyed because one of the spark plugs broke and a small piece of metal fell into my engine and is pinging around. The dealer didn't know what to tell me and I'm in a little bit of shock. Could that have happened when they changed the plug? How would I even prove that? First off, I'd get a second opinion. Secondly, if it happened directly after they changed the plugs, I'd imagine either something fell in the hole while the plugs were out, or they over torqued the plug and broke something. One would assume that a professional mechanic would know better, but it's been my experience that a lot of mechanics aren't that bright. Is the car under warranty? I assume this is an authorized VW dealer you had the work done at? Your best recourse is to skip the service manager and talk directly to the GM of the dealership. If he won't appease you call VW America. That said, if this problem started happening days or weeks after the plugs were changed, I'd say you're hosed.\ Edit: Also, take a minute to breathe and relax. Stressing about it won't fix your engine.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:49
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timb posted:First off, I'd get a second opinion. It's an older car (2001 Jetta). It was leaking coolant and started to misfire yesterday so I pulled over and towed it to the dealer. They said the radiator had a small leak (it had this for over four years and never caused a problem), but what was causing the big leak was some phlange had broken off. They also said my spark plugs looked like poo poo and I needed a tune up. I approved the work and thought I was in luck as I assumed the head gasget had blown. I get a call back that they started the car up and it was pinging and it appears one of the spark plugs had broken into the engine. I asked what next and they are like "uh, used engine?" I honestly had never heard of this so I wanted to be sure. It wasn't pinging yesterday if that's anything.
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Jan 10, 2012 20:00
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I very much doubt the spark plug just had something break off into the engine on its own. Spark plugs don't exactly have a lot of moving parts (any) and no part of the spark plug is under mechanical stress except for the thread but that wouldn't destroy your engine (You can, in fact, have your spark plug tear out the threads on the cylinder head and fly into the coil and still fix your engine, e.g. http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_12997/ford_spark_plug_blow_out_problems_how_to_repair.html) Actually wait, did you say "pinging"? As in knocking? Did they literally say a piece of the spark plug fell off and is flying around in the cylinder causing the pinging, because that would be pretty funny. Knock may or may not destroy your engine. Knocking is also not to be confused with pre-ignition, which will pretty much destroy your engine.
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Jan 10, 2012 23:03
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I'm not sure, all I know is it sounds like a small piece of metal is bouncing around the engine and it's REALLY loud. The top part of the plug is gone.
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Jan 11, 2012 00:40
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That would be pretty impressive because the terminal is stuck pretty well down in there. Also because it would be very obvious if it were missing and if they dropped it in there/installed it without the terminal, well, that's a hell of a gently caress up. Now if by "top" you mean the firing end, the bit that goes into the engine then you should try getting a picture of it. That can happen due to a lot of reasons, including melting, etc. See if you can get a picture of it.
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Jan 11, 2012 01:32
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If anyone wants to make a $5 DSG fill adapter, here's how I did it: 1) Buy a DSG drain plug. 2) Drill hole in said plug. 3) Get a threaded or barbed fitting and JB Weld that son of a bitch in. 4) Use the remaining $245 dollars you didn't have to spend on a VAG fill tool to buy some weed. (Or open a savings account if you're some sort of square.) We put a straw through the hole to prevent the JB Weld from seeping down and clogging it. I happened to have a threaded fitting on hand that perfectly fit my Motiv Power Bleeder, so I can just fill it with fluid and pump it in!     
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Jan 12, 2012 00:48
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My friends got a letter about a class action settlement for their 2010 Golf TDI. Apparently VW is going to reimburse the installation of a 9w3 or 9w7 bluetooth module because the 9w2 which the car has was marketed in a sketchy manner. The other option is the dealer will install an "upgrade kit". They have admitted to me that they were a bit bummed that their car didn't come with the phonebook capabilities that my 2010 Jetta TDI has. They were told when they went to buy it "oh yeah it has bluetooth". However they asked their dealer today about getting the newer module installed and the dealer took 4 hours to finally then tell them that putting a 9w3 or 9w7 into their car is as impossible as dropping in a 5 speed automatic transmission to replace the 6 speed manual. I know this isn't true, my friends know this isn't true. It is a 1 minute swap which doesn't even involve cracking open the dashboard. I know this because I swapped the 9w3 in my Jetta for a 9w7. What's the best course of action here? I actually have my 9w3 hanging around. I suppose I could sell it to them if it came to that.
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Jan 12, 2012 01:44
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allonblack posted:I will be doing nothing to help answer your question here, but what I will say is that I drove the A4 when I was looking to get rid of my '11 STI and I was not at all pleased with the power, and I don't think any chip will resolve that issue. Given that you can't keep an Evo or an STI for more than a year without getting bored how do you think the A4 would fare? Thanks for the input! What about your '11 STI didn't you like if you don't mind me asking? You make a very good point about getting bored of an A4. I think most of the problems that I had with my two Evo's ('03, '06) and STI ('09) is that the interior was so lackluster and sparse. You get two knobs, a couple switches, and the car basically drives itself. Both cars went like rockets, but they felt like $15,000 cars with big engines, which is what they are. I went and test drove a 2012 Evo MR last night and have to say I was extremely impressed (I know, I know). I've never felt seats as comfortable and snug as the upgraded leather/alcantara Recaros in that car. And as much as I hate to admit it, the dual clutch auto tranny was wonderful and I am completely addicted to flipping the flappy paddles behind the steering wheel. I went late at night and the salesman was bored, so we went for a more spirited test drive than normal. This was the touring package, which is supposed to be more grown up than the regular Evo, and it was. It has thicker glass, extra sound deadening, bilstein suspension, no huge wing, and just felt more grown up. Basically it didn't feel like an econobox muscle car. I didn't even notice any squeaks or rattles in the interior! (give it a couple thousand miles though, I'm sure.) But overall, the car felt more solid and refined. Now I need to go test drive the A4 and a used S4 if I can find one with the options I'm looking for. The biggest problem my brain has with the S4 route is that I can get a brand new fully loaded Evo MR Touring for less than a 3 year old S4 with 40,000 miles. And a new A4 with all the options I want out prices the Evo too. But I have found some used A4 S-Lines with the exact package I want for upper 20's which is more doable. Does anyone have an idea of how much modding it would take to get an A4 2.0T up to around 300hp/ft lbs? I assume this will be more than just an ECU flash. And since I live in California, I'm not into having a car modded to the point of being pulled over every day.
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Jan 12, 2012 21:11
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