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techknight posted:I hope it's a good 3D scanner or a giant-size MakerBot: Maybe they're the ones who bought out http://3dhomemade.blogspot.com/ 
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Jan 5, 2012 06:45
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Splizwarf posted:So uh, apparently my (relatively local) alma mater just got a Z-printer Ultra for teaching a 3-D printing class because a friend told the Dean it was a good idea. What do I do now? Print a copy, steal the original.
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Jan 5, 2012 07:00
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Maybe they're the ones who bought out http://3dhomemade.blogspot.com/ Hah, that's.. Well, I mean they did get ten million bucks. Releasing a resin printer would certainly give them a leg up in the hobbyist market. 
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Jan 5, 2012 08:08
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The 3-D Printer Megathread: Print a copy, steal the original.
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Jan 5, 2012 14:17
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techknight posted:I hope it's a good 3D scanner or a giant-size MakerBot: Aren't they working on a dual nozzle system that will be able to print two materials at once, like ABS and a water-soluble support material?
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Jan 6, 2012 13:09
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Zoltan posted:Aren't they working on a dual nozzle system that will be able to print two materials at once, like ABS and a water-soluble support material? Oh sure, but that's something they already started selling last year. Anyone with a Thing-o-Matic can upgrade to dual MK7 extruders: Water-soluble PVA  
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Jan 6, 2012 13:28
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I'm trying to source the final part for my prusa which is the hotend and would love some advise from you guys. Is there a hotend that is considered the best one that everyone uses or are there some that should be completely avoided? Also is 3mm filament still the standard being used?
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Jan 7, 2012 07:19
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Maybe they're the ones who bought out http://3dhomemade.blogspot.com/ Hahaha this got me way too excited 
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Jan 7, 2012 07:32
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General Apathy posted:I'm trying to source the final part for my prusa which is the hotend and would love some advise from you guys. Is there a hotend that is considered the best one that everyone uses or are there some that should be completely avoided? The makergear hotend seems to be the most highly revered though i havent tried it myself. I had a budaschnozzle fail on me. Currently running a jhead which seems to be performing well.
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Jan 7, 2012 07:58
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peepsalot posted:The makergear hotend seems to be the most highly revered though i havent tried it myself. I had a budaschnozzle fail on me. Currently running a jhead which seems to be performing well. Thanks, I was considering the makergear but it becomes quite expensive when coupled with the postage here to Australia, I may just have to bite the bullet so I can get this drat thing up and printing.
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Jan 7, 2012 10:37
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I have a j-head as well, and the nozzle performs well once you get the temps dialled in.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:06
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Just ordered a j-head after checking them out they are almost half the price of the makergear, now once this arrives I can start some printing!
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Jan 8, 2012 04:22
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General Apathy posted:Thanks, I was considering the makergear but it becomes quite expensive when coupled with the postage here to Australia, I may just have to bite the bullet so I can get this drat thing up and printing. I'm in Brisbane, Australia and we ship in the makergear setups regularly, usually as group buys through hackerspaces. Perhaps your local hackerspace might want to organise a group buy?
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Jan 8, 2012 04:52
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devians posted:I'm in Brisbane, Australia and we ship in the makergear setups regularly, usually as group buys through hackerspaces. Perhaps your local hackerspace might want to organise a group buy? I'm in country South Australia so I don't really have a local hackerspace. I will be moving to Adelaide in the coming months so I might have to suss the cities hackerspace, if there is one.
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Jan 8, 2012 05:37
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General Apathy posted:I'm in country South Australia so I don't really have a local hackerspace. I will be moving to Adelaide in the coming months so I might have to suss the cities hackerspace, if there is one. Yup, looks like there's one in Adelaide: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/Australia
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Jan 8, 2012 05:41
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techknight posted:Yup, looks like there's one in Adelaide: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/Australia Awesome thanks for that, they're nice and close to my uni and looks like they're currently building a huxley.
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Jan 8, 2012 06:43
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Just finished a massive eight hour print on my Cupcake, Russian poet Mayakovski: He's about 14cm tall, from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14884
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Jan 9, 2012 02:28
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Looks like this is the big news:quote:January 10, 2012 (Brooklyn, NY) – MakerBot Industries is excited to announce the launch of its latest product, The MakerBot Replicator™, which will debut at CES in Las Vegas, NV on Tuesday, January 10th. Available in the MakerBot store for pre-order today! http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2012/01/09/introducing-the-makerbot-replicator/
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Jan 9, 2012 21:31
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MikeNCR posted:Looks like this is the big news: So the big news is they made an Ultimaker? edit: Looks like the MakerBot store is down
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Jan 9, 2012 23:25
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Hello 3D printers! I must confess to having not read the entire thread yet. It seems painfully obvious to me 3D printing will be "the next big thing". So my question is, where should I invest my money now so that I can be rich in 10-15 years?
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Jan 9, 2012 23:51
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^^^^^ I'm not aware of any that accept public investors, so  kafkasgoldfish posted:So the big news is they made an Ultimaker?  Though honestly it looks great, I'd consider forking out for one to replace my current unit. My big thing is wanting to minimize the "fiddling" overhead that goes with 3D printing; both for the print process itself, as well as the hardware and software. No way to really know how well it hits those bases yet, though.
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Jan 10, 2012 01:09
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Manchild King posted:Hello 3D printers! I must confess to having not read the entire thread yet. Everything about this quote makes me irrationally angry.
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Jan 10, 2012 01:33
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Videodrome posted:Everything about this quote makes me irrationally angry. I was only half serious. Even if anyone would take public investors I wouldn't have the capital to start anyway if that makes you feel better.
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Jan 10, 2012 03:23
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Manchild King posted:Hello 3D printers! I must confess to having not read the entire thread yet. I'm not sure that it'll get you rich, but stratasys (SSYS) is a publicly traded company. They were an early pioneer of the FDM techniques that the hobbiest printers currently use. They still hold some patents on it, but the key ones are either expired or will be shortly. I don't think that they've moved into any of the higher resolution methods, but they are quite entrenched in the current market. Make sure to do your own research on them though.
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Jan 10, 2012 03:41
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I've been toying with getting one of these, and I'm curious: most of the models I've seen posted here have lines on them as relics of the printing process. Can these be sanded down reliably? Secondarily, can any of the materials be used safely as, say, a plate or as a mold for food?
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Jan 10, 2012 04:42
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Theseus posted:I've been toying with getting one of these, and I'm curious: most of the models I've seen posted here have lines on them as relics of the printing process. Can these be sanded down reliably? Secondarily, can any of the materials be used safely as, say, a plate or as a mold for food? To your first question, ABS the most common plastic used, takes sanding very well. Pieces that have this sort of post processing can look fantastic. If your too aggressive with a machine sander you can melt plastic instead, and that looks bad and gums up the abrasive, but it's easy to avoid. Food safety is a much harder question. There are food safe items made out of both ABS and PLA. So the simple answer is that it is food safe. This is not the correct answer. First, printed items are generally made water tight by overlapping a few slightly porous layers. This leaves crevices that food can be ground into and spoil in. In addition, plastics can have additives added to them, and not all will be food safe, but the resulting plastic would still be labeled as the same kind of plastic. ABS, for example, only describes the general family of plastic, different proportions of the A the B and the S can have wildly different structural properties. All are called ABS, additives further compound this. All of this is disclosed on material sheets from he plastic maker. As most of the plastic filaments sellers are actually resellers, you frequently don't get this sheet, even if you were qualified to read it. (Access to this has been improving, as knowing your exact mix can help with the quality of prints.) Because of these issues, plastics are generally not considered foodsafe unless the manufacturer specifically says it is. In most cases they are safe, after all poisons are typically avoided even if it isn't expected to go in your mouth, but why risk it. On the other hand, the inaugural print of many a machine has been a shot glass. Of course there are options. The best ones are to coat what you make with something that is foodsafe, like a hard food grade wax like carnauba, or a shellac. Both of these would soak into the porous structures preventing food from getting in, and isolate the food from anything that might be in the plastic.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:40
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Home 3D printing is really an exercise in patience and being able to isolate problems. Why the hell is my print bed again at least a .1mm lower in just one corner goddammit? Why is my top infill sparse again? It was just fine a week ago... what did I change since then?Manchild King posted:It seems painfully obvious to me 3D printing will be "the next big thing". So my question is, where should I invest my money now so that I can be rich in 10-15 years? Oh, you I see said "invest" instead of "invent". In that case you're asking pretty much the same as "Linux will be the next big thing, where should I invest my money". Aurium posted:Because of these issues, plastics are generally not considered foodsafe unless the manufacturer specifically says it is. In most cases they are safe, after all poisons are typically avoided even if it isn't expected to go in your mouth, but why risk it. There's "food safe" as in being able to legally market and sell to the general public and whole another "food safe" as in not being a serious concern if you use it yourself and think about what you're doing.
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Jan 10, 2012 11:17
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Aurium posted:Of course there are options. The best ones are to coat what you make with something that is foodsafe, like a hard food grade wax like carnauba, or a shellac. Both of these would soak into the porous structures preventing food from getting in, and isolate the food from anything that might be in the plastic. What's the melting point on that sort of wax? Is it a concern when washing dishes/dishwashering/making tea/pouring boiling soup in? I've honestly never heard of wax being used for food containers other than medieval cups and flasks.
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Jan 10, 2012 14:29
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cyberbug posted:Because I really want to print a print head that prints chocolate. Well that's safe, because the current hobbyist solution is air compressor-powered syringes - so there'd be nothing printed and porous directly interacting with the food product. I know folks on Thingiverse have used polyurethane to coat the inside of thinly-printed vases to keep them water-tight.
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Jan 10, 2012 15:46
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Splizwarf posted:What's the melting point on that sort of wax? Is it a concern when washing dishes/dishwashering/making tea/pouring boiling soup in? I've honestly never heard of wax being used for food containers other than medieval cups and flasks. Carnauba wax melts around 82-87C (180-187F). Boiling water would be a no go. Shellacs can melt anywhere between 70 and 120C (158 to 248). Unfortunately, many are on the lower end of that range, and wouldn't work. There are plenty of foodsafe polyurethanes too, so thanks for the reminder techknight. They would meet your temperature requirements. As far as how serious a threat bare plastic is. It honestly is hard to say. To my knowledge nobody has gotten sick from printed items, and the vast majority of unsafe additives have long been withdrawn from the market. But some moderately hazardous ones remain if there no expectation for food handling, things like fire suppresants, industrial lubricants, and the like. All of this would be on the material sheet. For my personal use, I'd be ok with something like a cookie cutter, but not with something like a soup bowl where a hot liquid would sit in it and possibly either leech out, or get trapped in the porous structure and spoil. Even the soup bowl would probably be safe, I just wouldn't, unless I knew more about the plastic than just what kind it was.
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Jan 10, 2012 17:50
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Just out of curiosity, how smooth are projects made from the home 3D printers? Will I have to sand and buff a printed object so there are no fine ridges all over the item? And can one make a prototype of something with exact measurements? I am thinking of one of these devices to make prototypes of some items, but geometry is INCREDIBLY important (shrinkage of plastics while curing would make it pointless to bother with this), so should I even bother with such things? Actually it would be interesting to be able to print using wax for lost-wax casting.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:31
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Theseus posted:I've been toying with getting one of these, and I'm curious: most of the models I've seen posted here have lines on them as relics of the printing process. Can these be sanded down reliably? If you print with a thin enough layer height, the layers start to blend in to the point where they aren't so visible. Here is a guide to fine detail prints http://techpaladin.com/2011/12/21/nathaniels-guide-to-high-detail-printing/ I've printed at .2mm height with black PLA but my layers were still a bit more visible than his example. I guess filament color plays a big part like he says. I've done some hand sanding to clean up some stringing artifacts on my prints, and i found that blasting it quickly with a butane torch helps bring back the sheen to a sanded part. Just gotta be careful not to linger very long and start melting the whole piece, the idea is to just affect the surface layer. I haven't tried sanding for the purpose of completely removing visible layer boundaries. Someone also once told be that you can polish it a bit with acetone. I haven't tried this, but I know that ABS dissolves in acetone, so I can see how it might help. Not sure how effective it is on PLA though. A FUCKTON OF WEED posted:Just out of curiosity, how smooth are projects made from the home 3D printers? Will I have to sand and buff a printed object so there are no fine ridges all over the item? As some anecdotal evidence, I recently printed these extruder gears and was impressed that the hex head bolt press fit into the large gear perfectly. This is a hexagonal hole, so I think the bug i linked to does not apply. It had just enough resistance to press it in by hand for a very snug fit. This is crucial for reducing extruder backlash, which can screw up your filament retraction(used to avoid "strings" when the printhead travels between features). peepsalot fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 20:28
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Thanks, peepsalot, that's pretty informative.  I guess I should download ReplicatorG for my iMac and see if I can even wrap my head around it first before I start to consider getting involved in any of this.
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Jan 10, 2012 22:09
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I often print parts that go into some real-world thing so exact measurements are important. Can't remember the last time I cared about the finished texture looking layered. But then again I don't make jewelery or anything. ABS shrinks but it does so predictably - scaling up the model by 2.5% seems to do the trick for me. My biggest problem is ABS cooling irregularly and curling/lifting especially at the edges. My printer was nigh-unusable except with tiny objects until I got a heated build platform. It's not fixed by any means, just somewhat less of a problem now. I can now print SMALL objects, not just tiny ones.
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Jan 11, 2012 00:20
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A FUCKTON OF WEED posted:Actually it would be interesting to be able to print using wax for lost-wax casting. Speaking of lost wax casting, one of our members at Site 3 built a furnace to smelt aluminum late last year. So I 3D printed a few things for her, she made impressions with them in containers of sand, then poured in the melted aluminum:  (Also I filmed an earlier attempt at casting a wrench: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCp4sNR4RwA) Snackmar fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 02:49
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Can this thread also be about open source laser cutters? I just came across Lasersaur, the open source laser cutter being designed by Nortd labs. It's actually a fully funded Kickstarter project that's made it as far as the beta stage. http://labs.nortd.com/lasersaur/  It's a large format laser and supposedly goes together fairly easily considering that you're building a frickin' laser beam (TM) Yay or nay at including lasers in our discussion? Friendly reminder that lasers can be used to create our beloved open source 3d printers.. just sayin'..
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Jan 11, 2012 04:19
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Aurium posted:Carnauba wax melts around 82-87C (180-187F). Boiling water would be a no go. Shellacs can melt anywhere between 70 and 120C (158 to 248). Unfortunately, many are on the lower end of that range, and wouldn't work. Since you seem to know what you're talking about with regards to food safety, I intend to grill you further! I would need to be able to withstand dishwashing, and regular use - so for example, a soup bowl would be both exposed to hot liquids sitting in it and the scraping of a spoon. As I am fairly risk-adverse, I am looking for the kind of food safety where one could legally sell it as a food-consumption-related product. My hope is to make things along the lines of bowls, plates, and molds for a variety of food materials (like chocolate, or jello). I have a few chemist friends who are qualified to read MSDSs. Do the polyurethanes accept sanding as well as ABS? I assume that they would be used as a casting material rather than as a coating.
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Jan 11, 2012 05:25
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Theseus posted:Do the polyurethanes accept sanding as well as ABS? I assume that they would be used as a casting material rather than as a coating. You assume wrongly. You're going to make your whatever in ABS, sand it to completion, then seal it with food-safe polyurethane, making it impervious to damage by humans. Polyurethane is the coating used on gymnasium floors, and is incredibly tough. I coated my (wood) table with it after staining, and it's now possible to cut directly on the surface of the table with no worry about scratching.
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Jan 11, 2012 06:00
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Check it out - I didn't know that people were printing polycarbonate on hobbyist gear: http://www.protoparadigm.com/2011/12/printing-polycarbonate/
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Jan 11, 2012 13:29
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I made a   The ever popular "Pink Panther woman" from Thingiverse at 0.2mm layer height, 30mm/s single wall perimeter, 0 infill(it's hollow). Running Marlin firmware, sliced with Slic3r 0.5.7 Been slowly learning the limits of my machine over the past couple weeks. This print was coming out amazingly well, but I ran out of cooling on the upper layers so I stopped the print. I have a small 40mm fan on my x carriage, not sure if i want to upgrade the fan, or maybe try to duct it better. Or I could just print slower if i wanted to be BORING
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Jan 12, 2012 10:21
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