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Slow is Fast posted:AND MAKE SURE THE COOLANT DOESNT LOOK LIKE CHOCOLATE MILK. Made that mistake..... Did someone put oil in the coolant tank? haha.
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Jan 8, 2012 03:03
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Philip J Fry posted:That's kind of a small can of worms due to the varying length of components. For example: the 231 and 242 are actually the same length (i.e. they don't affect front or rear driveshaft length at all) but all the other info is accurate.
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Jan 8, 2012 07:55
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Oh, right, I think the 242 hangs down a little more, about 3/4".
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Jan 8, 2012 08:05
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yeah, it's definitely a bit bulkier. What I'd REALLY like to get my hands on for a good price is an NV241OR. Unfortunately they generally go for 700+ in bolt-in condition.
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Jan 8, 2012 08:20
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I'm thinking about buying this Jeep. Its going to be my off-road rig, and not a DD. Its pretty much what I want: something with a decent lift, an upgraded rear axle, and not too expensive. I asked the owner about the repairs and such, and this was his reply: "It's a procomp lift. The old alternator was putting out low voltage. The starter was on its way out. Gaskets were leaking. It's running Dunlop mud rovers 31". Steering is a little loose and windshield might need to be replaced. Has a circular crack on the passenger side. I don't have anymore pics. Paint is oxidized and faded. Body is straight. Driver seat is pretty beat up but seat covers hide it nicely." So what say you, AI. Do any of you see anything that says "Run away!" from this?
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Jan 8, 2012 12:53
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Oxford Comma posted:I'm thinking about buying this Jeep. Its going to be my off-road rig, and not a DD. Its pretty much what I want: something with a decent lift, an upgraded rear axle, and not too expensive. Other than the starter and the alternator, it's pretty much in a good Jeep condition. Gaskets are easy, just take some time, and the windshield is an easy find, considering 2,884,172 XJ's were built. Check for underbelly rust, but I doubt there's any considering it's from SF. Price seems good, and lift isn't Rough Country (always a plus). Good luck with it!
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Jan 8, 2012 21:48
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Hey guys! I'm getting up on having enough cash to drop on a suspension lift for my 87 YJ. The springs and shocks in it now are about dead and I figured I'd get both done at once. I'm looking at a 1.5" to 2.5" spring lift kit for around $600. Just about anything will be softer than the 25 year old springs it has now so I'm not a whole lot concerned about ride quality. What would you guys suggest I get? Black Diamond 1.5" or maybe something like this: Rough Country 2.5" Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 9, 2012 |
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Jan 9, 2012 02:19
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Welp. My Jeep needs to go. She failed inspection because of rust underneath and I took it to the body shop affiliated with the dealership my dad works at and they said that pretty much the entire bottom is going to need to be replaced. Now, there are extra bottom panels for '95 Cherokees floating around apparently due to overstocking but in order to replace it the insides will have to be stripped and essentially crazy labor intensive and probably would cost more than a cheap used car. Looks like I'm getting a cheap used car 
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Jan 9, 2012 20:52
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You could get a welder and do it yourself for less than it will cost at a shop, but I hate rust repair on floorboards more than almost anything else. I'd scrap it and get another. Hell, get a non-running one of the same year or earlier (to meet emissions regs) and swap your drivetrain and other parts onto it, then send your rusted hulk to the yard for a few hundred in scrap money. I know a few people who basically build a cherokee every year or two, they wheel hard enough and often enough that the unibody just comes apart at the seams. Spotwelds tear out, doors don't line up anymore, everything creaks and flexes, all the body panels end up crushed in, so they find a $300 craigslist "doesn't run, bad motor" special and spend a weekend bolting everything onto the new body. Then they shove all the junk they didn't manage to sell off the new one into the back and get their money back at the scrapyard. With scrap iron at $225 a ton right now, it's tough to lose money if you pay $400 or less for the new one, and if you sell some of the parts instead of scrapping them, you can break even when paying even more.
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Jan 10, 2012 02:57
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kastein posted:You could get a welder and do it yourself for less than it will cost at a shop, but I hate rust repair on floorboards more than almost anything else. I'd scrap it and get another. Hell, get a non-running one of the same year or earlier (to meet emissions regs) and swap your drivetrain and other parts onto it, then send your rusted hulk to the yard for a few hundred in scrap money. Why go through all this trouble when you can just get a long wheel-base Wrangler that will presumably not get torn apart or will be much easier to fix?
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Jan 10, 2012 03:44
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EightBit posted:Why go through all this trouble when you can just get a long wheel-base Wrangler that will presumably not get torn apart or will be much easier to fix? because cherokees are cooler  kidding, I don't buy XJs any more, and I only have one left. I replaced them with MJs, though I would really love to get an M715 and/or an M816 at some point.
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Jan 10, 2012 03:50
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EightBit posted:Why go through all this trouble when you can just get a long wheel-base Wrangler that will presumably not get torn apart or will be much easier to fix? Because they don't come with an I6.  Slap some angle-iron on the frame rails and throw some rigid steel bumpers on the ends and you wouldn't even know it's a unibody.
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Jan 10, 2012 04:04
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Philip J Fry posted:Because they don't come with an I6.
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Jan 10, 2012 04:36
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Is a ZJ with an I6 a decent Jeep? Or is XJ the only Cherokee to own?
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Jan 10, 2012 04:59
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Oxford Comma posted:Is a ZJ with an I6 a decent Jeep? Or is XJ the only Cherokee to own? I loved my WJ, and I had a few friends with ZJ's that enjoyed them. There is definately more poo poo to go wrong, but they are definately more luxurious for every day driving and still take to mods decently. But for cheap-ness and durability, the XJ is the Jeep to own.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:15
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I loved my WJ, and I had a few friends with ZJ's that enjoyed them. There is definately more poo poo to go wrong, but they are definately more luxurious for every day driving and still take to mods decently. But I should probably avoid the V8, correct?
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Jan 10, 2012 05:49
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Oxford Comma posted:But I should probably avoid the V8, correct? Its just a 318, so the engine will last... though you lose about 2 mpgs with the 8. Some one correct me, but the V8 does come with stronger axles. Have you found a couple of expamples you want to purchase? See if you can live with the I6 vs the V8. I liked the V8 in my WJ, plus it gained some towing capacity, but I also had the 4.7, so YMMV. Depends on how much your spending, but see if you can find a WJ. It feels tighter and more nimble, but again thats one persons opinion.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:56
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I decided on getting the pro comp 2.5" kit.  
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 15:34
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How much can an XJ or ZJ be lifted before we need to put in new control arms and such?
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Jan 10, 2012 19:10
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That depends on how much you care about ride and capability. Mallcrawler with a good back that you want to be a bad back soon? You can do 6 or 8 inches of lift no problem! Mud basher? 6 or 8 inches, I've seen 10 or more but it was a deathtrap. Most mud basher rigs I see are deathtraps/hackjobs, in fact. Rock crawler or you care about how it rides? Probably around 4 or 5 inches is the max I'd go on stock arms. Hell, I'm at 4" now and I've never actually run aftermarket control arms, I get the stock ones for free. I've beat the crap out of them and only bent a few. At this point I'm going full custom longarms (just bought all the heim joints and other parts from ruffstuff around a month ago) when I rebuild the truck next. Frankly, I wouldn't go over 6" of lift on an XJ or ZJ for any reason. Better to stay low and keep the center of gravity down, it helps handling a lot. A good friend of mine ran 37" tires on a 2" lift with a LOT of body clearancing, another runs 40s on around 5-6" of lift, and I have seen more rigs on 4" of lift and 35s than I can remember.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:59
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With an XJ, if you have a small lift (2-3") if you go to 31" tires or larger you'll get some rubbing on the stock lower control arms at full lock turning. You can get these control arms that come with a bend for more clearance though. I have a set in my XJ and really like them--they're a heck of a lot beefier than the stock ones too. They're kind of a bitch to install though. I paid someone to do it because I didn't want to mess with the rusty bolts and bushings.
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Jan 12, 2012 07:32
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Most aftermarket rims have enough backspacing to not have to worry about rubbing at full lock. Usually you're going rub on the lower bumper trim/guard/valance thingy first. A 15x8 with 4"-4.5" backspacing (I think stock is 15x7 on 5.5" or so) is usually fine for 31's. Any lower (3.75"-) and your ball joints will hate you. Also, lower control arms from a WJ have a slight bend in them as well and will bolt right in. The biggest limitation with stock lower control arms is articulation. Your front axle will only droop so far before their backbone hits against the bottom of the coil bracket on the axle, no matter how long your shocks are or if your sway bar is completely disconnected. This also makes changing coils/spacers a bitch. The high mounting point on the frame for the other end of the control arm doesn't help the angle any either, so most decent 4"+ lift kits will include drop brackets that bolt on to help alleviate that. If you're considering anything over 4", I'd strongly recommend a long arm kit or at least some adjustable shorties.
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Jan 12, 2012 08:12
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WJ LCAs actually don't quite bolt in, but it's close. Just needs some angle grinder work, the bushing sleeves are a bit too long at one end of the arm (think it's the body end?) and IIRC the metal of the arm actually gets a little too close to either the LCA pocket on the body or the axle tube and needs to be clearanced slightly. I don't recall because I ended up putting my stock ones back in (it was 11pm and I was doing an axle swap in the driveway, upstairs neighbors always bitched about noise if I ran the grinder past ~8pm.)
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Jan 12, 2012 17:50
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Philip J Fry posted:That's kind of a small can of worms due to the varying length of components. For example: I ran a 6.5" lift in my 98 XJ with no vibes and no SYE. I did run a 1" transfer case drop, but that's still 5.5" as far as the u-joints are concerned. Then my friend's 98 TJ we put a 2.5" lift in it a few weeks ago and it has crazy vibes. Replaced the u-joints, still doing it. Dropped the TC .75" and it went away. Basically, it's a lottery. A vibration lottery.
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Jan 12, 2012 23:58
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kastein posted:
Interestingly, my 6.5" lift XJ still had a roofline that was lower than a dodge caravan.
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Jan 13, 2012 00:04
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Yeah, but I bet the Caravan could take an onramp faster. 
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Jan 13, 2012 00:09
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Yeah, but I bet the Caravan could take an onramp faster. Maybe it can, but will it? That depends on who's driving, I think. I'd put most modded Jeep drivers up against most Caravan drivers any day of the week. I'm kinda surprised an XJ on 6" of lift is shorter than a Caravan, what size tires were you running?
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Jan 13, 2012 00:27
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kastein posted:Maybe it can, but will it? That depends on who's driving, I think. I'd put most modded Jeep drivers up against most Caravan drivers any day of the week. JK Rubicon takeoffs, so 32". I miss that Jeep. The XJ is nice because basically it's a station wagon body with nice running-gear under it.
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Jan 13, 2012 00:39
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jonathan posted:Interestingly, my 6.5" lift XJ still had a roofline that was lower than a dodge caravan.
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Jan 13, 2012 03:54
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A nice modern 4 door Wrangler parked next to my XJ earlier today and drat, I never realized how big they are. I think the wheelbase had a good 3-4" more compared to the XJ.
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Jan 13, 2012 06:13
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So I'm getting the underside of my XJ patched up by a friend of the family for pretty cheap next month. 
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Jan 13, 2012 06:34
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mod sassinator posted:A nice modern 4 door Wrangler parked next to my XJ earlier today and drat, I never realized how big they are. I think the wheelbase had a good 3-4" more compared to the XJ. Try about 14". And 4-5" wider.  Got my Dirtbound Offroad e-fans installed. Tried to put in a Champion all-aluminum 3-row radiator, too, but the drat thing had some fitment issues. 
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Jan 13, 2012 06:42
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jonathan posted:JK Rubicon takeoffs, so 32". I miss that Jeep. The XJ is nice because basically it's a station wagon body with nice running-gear under it. So this is a 6" lift with 32's? Looks pretty sweet.
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Jan 13, 2012 16:23
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I really liked what Jeep did with their Lower 40 concept: Minimal lift, cut to fit, but not botched and hacked about.
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Jan 13, 2012 16:29
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What the christ
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Jan 13, 2012 16:34
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That looks a little goofy, but I go with function over form... as long as it has a good smooth belly skid setup that should be awesome.
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Jan 13, 2012 16:58
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I'm a little worried that the Lower 40 will be the next Ford Raptor: A turn-key package that lets people with more money than off-road experience get themselves in over their heads. Like the people who were involved with the Raptor run over the summer who bent the frames of their trucks by hitting an obstacle at way too high of a speed (particularly poo poo like this kicker), and then blamed the vehicle's design.
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Jan 13, 2012 17:04
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I was going to say "I can at least kind of understand some of their frustration given Ford's 'Woooo Baja tough' marketing," but then I watched the video. After Toyota's recent frame and body issues, I was imagining something much less abusive being involved in the Raptor complaints. My bad. That guy is an idiot and anyone driving like that deserves whatever damage they cause.
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Jan 13, 2012 17:42
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driving like that is a hell of a lot of fun, ever watch a JeepSpeed event? That being said, it does put a LOT of hurt on your frame. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dU9M055RlU  I BELIEVE I CAN FLY Second vehicle is a pretty well built JeepSpeed XJ. I'm always impressed by the fact that they can make a unibody of any kind survive that kind of punishment, takes a lot of plating and tube / cage work.
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Jan 13, 2012 17:59
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The Raptor Run thing was mostly a bunch of guys with zero experience hitting things as hard as they could. Some of them even felt the need to remove the 100mph electronic governors on their trucks. As far as they were concerned, if a $200k purpose-built, 5000lb F-150 trophy truck could do it, so could their 7500lb $40k consumer truck.
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Jan 13, 2012 18:23
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