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lilljonas posted:Then there are tons of them. I usually browse http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/ since they have so many kits available, and you can easily search for specific scales and subjects. Even if you end up buying it somewhere else, it is a good place to browse. Looks really good. Do you have any pigments? you could try rubbing some light colours into the treads that's usually looks really good.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:12
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Yeah, it's not the turret itself so much as how the detail is represented. Mine seems to have more deeply etched lines etc, and one or two more parts. The guns seem to be the same guns, just yours have dust covers or something where mine don't. Looking at the one I built most recently there's a lot more stowage on it, but that could be from other kits too.
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Jan 5, 2012 16:33
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Arquinsiel posted:Yeah, it's not the turret itself so much as how the detail is represented. Mine seems to have more deeply etched lines etc, and one or two more parts. The guns seem to be the same guns, just yours have dust covers or something where mine don't. Looking at the one I built most recently there's a lot more stowage on it, but that could be from other kits too. I also noticed that various kits have various stowage etc., which makes sence as my googling for real pictures shows that pretty much every one were rather unique. big_g: I have bought two Tamiya weathering kits, but I don't have them at home right now. I'll definitely try them and see if the result is better than just drybrushing. Thanks!
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Jan 5, 2012 16:51
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lilljonas posted:big_g: I have bought two Tamiya weathering kits, but I don't have them at home right now. I'll definitely try them and see if the result is better than just drybrushing. Thanks! The effect you are looking for is pretty much the opposite of drybrushing as in you want it in the treads and not the raised points. just dust some all over the wheel and run your finger over it, should polish it off nicely.
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Jan 5, 2012 17:23
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lilljonas posted:I also noticed that various kits have various stowage etc., which makes sence as my googling for real pictures shows that pretty much every one were rather unique.
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Jan 5, 2012 17:52
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Nearly done, a couple of little fixes and its ready to go. 
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Jan 6, 2012 10:28
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That is really impressive.
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Jan 6, 2012 17:45
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Yes, you really managed to get the stripes perfect.
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Jan 6, 2012 18:35
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Awesome work on the brake discs, are they a paint job or photoetch parts?
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Jan 8, 2012 08:13
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I managed to find a good range of 1:32 WW1 Figures and accessories here. Price and quality seem decent, and they even have a set of gasmasked heads (something that I was looking for). Sadly there was still a lack of 1:35 or 1:32 figures although i did find some very nice quality ones at the model cellar Now that I have these sourced I'm going to have to drag the kit out of the closet and start working on it.
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Jan 9, 2012 11:39
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I ordered a set of photoetch parts for the cockpit of the Corsair that I will be starting soon. They came in the mail today, and HOLY CRAP some of the pieces are small. I don't really know what I was expecting, but I didn't expect them to be that tiny. I've read several general articles about working with photoetch, but would appreciate any additional tips you guys might have.
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Jan 9, 2012 22:58
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I haven't worked with photoetch specifically (but will be in the future) but as with most thin metal, make sure you plan out your bends, you don't want to have keep working it otherwise there is a high chance it will snap.
No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jan 9, 2012 |
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Jan 9, 2012 23:29
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who cares posted:I ordered a set of photoetch parts for the cockpit of the Corsair that I will be starting soon. They came in the mail today, and HOLY CRAP some of the pieces are small. I don't really know what I was expecting, but I didn't expect them to be that tiny. For the first time I finished a kit where Photoetch was a major part of the kit. Were the pieces small? Well...  (It's an eye-hole. Oh and you need to bend it in the middle.) My tips would be: 1) One or two special tools make things easier. A pair of needle-nose pliers and a Tamiya diamond file were pretty much all I used for sanding and bending. 2) Superglue, if you put it on wax paper, stays liquid for a long time, so you can apply just the right amount. Oh, and make sure you are at a desk that is well lit. This kit was from dragon and came with spares for the smallest bits, but still, I lost nothing to the carpet monster. Oh, and the kit is a winter T-34/76, unfortunate as it probably looks like crap next to lilljonas T-34 of like 2 pages ago.   Handle on round transmission access is photo-etch, very very tiny:  Snow from a Tamiya weathering stick. It looks alright, especially for the scale, but it didn't quite match what was in my head.  Actual braided steel cable! The grilles were all photoetch; if you look closely at the rear grille you can make out angled air vents.  Wash was grey and black water based paints, it took quite a bit to make enough of a mess. Ground up art charcoal is the exhaust soot. 
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Jan 10, 2012 02:12
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I also recently put together a late model T-34/76. It's a Zvezda, so it unfortunately has those crappy looking rubber tracks.  It's just not a Zvezda kit without a component that nobody else would ever produce:  BAM! Minesweeper. The idea is that this thing would roll over anti-tank mines and they would explode relatively harmlessly underneath it. 
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Jan 10, 2012 02:47
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Actually Battlefront made those specifically to represent minesweeper tanks. I've never seen them used, since people can remember which tanks have them and which don't.
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Jan 10, 2012 03:45
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Ensign Expendable posted:I also recently put together a late model T-34/76. It's a Zvezda, so it unfortunately has those crappy looking rubber tracks. Ah, I see yours has all-steel wheels... 
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Jan 10, 2012 04:20
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I also found an old as hell T-34/85 kit that was partially put together, but has since fallen apart. There weren't any tracks in the box, so I guess I will have to buy aftermarket ones. Any suggestions?
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Jan 10, 2012 05:20
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Hot Soviet tanks ITT 
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Jan 10, 2012 06:16
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Nebakenezzer posted:Superglue, if you put it on wax paper, stays liquid for a long time, so you can apply just the right amount. No matter what you are doing this is a good thing to know! Thanks.
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Jan 10, 2012 06:21
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Morgenthau posted:Awesome work on the brake discs, are they a paint job or photoetch parts? All paint, Alclad II lacquer. Its a layering of Chrome and Stainless Steel. Cheers
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Jan 10, 2012 08:09
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I kind of lurk this thread because I haven't built a model in years, but this website is looking to waste a poo poo load of my money. The stuff they sell reflects a lot of the well known and vintage short track racers from my area, and skimming through the site has me thinking of getting back into it. I'd like to get one built for my dad for Father's Day, he used to build race cars just like those.
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Jan 10, 2012 17:35
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VikingSkull posted:I kind of lurk this thread because I haven't built a model in years, but this website is looking to waste a poo poo load of my money. The stuff they sell reflects a lot of the well known and vintage short track racers from my area, and skimming through the site has me thinking of getting back into it. I'd like to get one built for my dad for Father's Day, he used to build race cars just like those. Join us, VikingSkull. We all float down here (on a cloud of toxic vapor.) Speaking of toxic, you might want to ask the thread about working with resin. It's not like working with normal plastic; I think a respirator is standard equipment. Aeronautical insanity crosspost: You could always build this familiar face in the meantime.
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Jan 10, 2012 20:38
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Man, gently caress the C-17, replacing the C-5 here like it is. It's just not the same.  Also, I've worked with resin before. Back when I built them I used to get detail parts for each car from the local hobby store. I'm definitely not a rookie, I can use an airbrush and everything! I'd post some pics but all my models went to that big bedroom floor + careless step in the sky. poo poo, back when I was building kits minors were allowed to buy glue and spray paint.
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Jan 10, 2012 21:19
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My mistake; just makin' sure you knew about resin. I was going to post a C-5 for you but I don't think anybody makes a kit for them right now. fake e: OK there was a 1/144 kit for the C-5, but it's long outa print now, and apparently can command up to $100 on the second hand market. Some company in Las Vegas will sell you a 1/144 kit, about the same price but maybe better quality. The same company also offers a 1/72 C-5 kit  Easiest solution? Build this. 
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Jan 10, 2012 22:12
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I've only built a few planes, namely an F-111 (this dates me a bit) that I really enjoyed. I'm more of a custom car/race car kind of guy anyway. I have been looking at 1/35th armor lately though. Honestly though after seeing that site I linked, I'll probably build a few of those first to reflect some of the old time drivers at the dirt track near me. Plus that loving pavement mod Monza  I could scratch build some great late-70's Daytona cars from that.
Seizure Meat fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 22:40
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For a nice glossy finish (cars, motorcycles), what would you recommend? Future is no longer available in Sweden and the "Liquitex High Gloss Varnish" is too thick for my 0.4 needle (and Liquitex says not to thin it). I have just tried out Microscale Micro Gloss and it gave me a very nice result. Thins nicely with either water or alocohol. Edit: I also have Alclad II Klear Kote, Tamiya's X22, Schmincke (2 kinds of varnish), FasKolor Faskoat. As you can tell I will conquer that goddamn glossy finish or die trying! Mongolian Queef fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 15:28
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First time with photo etch is going okay, save for flinging one piece off into oblivion. I'm sure the next time I'll see it is when it gets lodged in my foot. EDIT: To pick up small pieces I have been rolling up a bit of poster putty into a tiny cylinder and touching the end of it to the photo etch piece. I holds pretty well and I can see where I'm going with it. Once the glue dries I pull the poster putty away. EDIT2: Some progress. I had a hard time taking pictures and getting everything in focus. Also I accidentally stuck the case thing (I have no idea what its for) to my finger and some of the color came off the part. Oh well, I'm calling it weathering. Hopefully it's not supposed to be canvas. I doubt it will be very visible once it goes into the plane so it doesn't matter that much to me.   
who cares fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 18:14
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With some creative use of accessories and common household materials, I made a Zveda artillery loader and a Tamiya tank infantryman into a sapper team diorama. 
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Jan 16, 2012 06:11
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How do you usually deal with ejector pin marks? I have an airfix kit I'm working on and the backs of pieces are quite shocking when it comes to them. The worst thing is they are mostly on places which won't be obscured by construction.
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Jan 16, 2012 11:27
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No Pun Intended posted:How do you usually deal with ejector pin marks? I have an airfix kit I'm working on and the backs of pieces are quite shocking when it comes to them. The worst thing is they are mostly on places which won't be obscured by construction. You could use a small amount of some kind of putty or surfacer to hide the marks, then gently sand them flat as long as they're not across detail.
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Jan 16, 2012 11:50
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Most of them are flat panels so detail is not a problem. I know there is the tamiya white putty for this purpose, does anyone else know of a better/preferred putty to use?
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Jan 16, 2012 23:53
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No Pun Intended posted:Most of them are flat panels so detail is not a problem. I know there is the tamiya white putty for this purpose, does anyone else know of a better/preferred putty to use? Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 is good for that sort of thing if you can get your hands on it. As I can't get that locally any more for some reason, I've been having some pretty good luck mixing Squadron green stuff with non-acetone nailpolish remover. Others use liquid cement for the same purpose, but that seems a little "hot" to me (potentially could melt the plastic). You can mix the putty/solvent to the consistency you want and it ends up far less expensive than the other liquid putties. The commercial ones become a little more worthwhile in the finer grades (Mr. Surfacer 1000/1500) as high-build primers.
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Jan 17, 2012 05:54
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Dissolve some extra sprue in a bottle of liquid cement (Testor's clear or Tamiya) and it will make an easy-to-work filler.
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Jan 17, 2012 06:17
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compressioncut posted:Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 is good for that sort of thing if you can get your hands on it. By green stuff I presume you mean regular blue/yellow kneadanite? Or is this something else entirely?
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Jan 18, 2012 02:45
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No Pun Intended posted:By green stuff I presume you mean regular blue/yellow kneadanite? Or is this something else entirely? Squadron green stuff is stuff out of a tube. Similar to the tamiya putty. 2-part putties are a pain in the rear end when it comes to gap filling and such, in my experience, but is nice if you need to recreate detail (and can sculpt a bit).
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Jan 18, 2012 08:00
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Yeah the Squadron green putty is almost ubiquitous. Dries pretty fast and has a fine grain. Tamiya and Vallejo also make tube putties. http://store.spruebrothers.com/squadron-tools---green-putty-23oz-9055-p22340.aspx Thick super glue + accelerator also makes an excellent filler, but it tends to get really hard if you don't sand it soon after application, and it's also clear which I find hard to judge progress on. It would be difficult to use on ejector pin marks.
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Jan 18, 2012 19:45
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I appreciate the input, I'll try and pick some up from the model store if (I can swing by)/get some from the Internet.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:01
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You want to see some impressive scratch-built dioramas, check this out! http://www.chinasmack.com/2012/pictures/incredibly-realistic-miniature-models-by-chinese-art-students.html
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Jan 20, 2012 22:51
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Blistex posted:You want to see some impressive scratch-built dioramas, check this out! Wow. I wonder if they used CNC mills or prototyping machines...
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Jan 20, 2012 23:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:Wow. I wonder if they used CNC mills or prototyping machines... Clay and shaping tools. These being art students, I'd guess they were all hand carved.
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Jan 21, 2012 06:12
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